April 30, 1892. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
553 
Cattleya Philo. 
The seed parent of this hybrid was Cattleya labiata 
crossed with C. iricolor. The pseudo-bulbs are 
fusiform and relatively small; and the leaves ligulate, 
channelled and keeled, and about 6 in. to io in. long. 
The sepals are oblong-spathulate and pale pink with 
darker veins. The petals are two or three times as 
broad, similar in hue, but a shade or two darker on 
the veins. The lip has a pale purplish tube, and a 
short deep purple lamina somewhat marbled as in 
C. 1 . Mossiae, with a large orange blotch extending 
down into the throat, which is purple and striated 
with branching white veins. The column is small 
and white. An Award of Merit was accorded it 
when shown at the Drill Hall, on the 19th inst., by 
Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons, Chelsea. 
Cattleya hybrida Burberryana. 
The pseudo-bulbs or stems of this hybrid are slender 
and tapered to a stalk-like base, resembling those of 
C. intricata, which we understand was the seed 
parent, while the pollen parent was C. superba. 
About two oval-oblong, leathery leaves, 2 in. to 4 in. 
long are borne on the top of each stem. The sepals 
are oblong and pink, the lateral ones being falcate. 
The petals are oblong-lanceolate, somewhat falcate 
or sickle shaped, and slightly broader than the sepals. 
The three lobed lip has the tube curved below the 
middle, pink, and white beneath; the lamina is 
orbicular, emarginate, reflexed at the sides, undulate 
of a deep rich purple and creamy-yellow in the 
throat. The flower as a whole is very large, and a 
First-class Certificate was awarded the hybrid when 
shown at the Drill Hall.on the 19thinst., by Messrs. 
F. Sander & Co., St. Albans. 
Odontoglossum Wendlandianum. 
The pseudo-bulbs of this Odontoglot are ovoid, and 
bear linear lanceolate, channelled, and keeled, light 
green leaves. The plant is of moderate growth, as 
the plant shown by Messrs. F. Sander & Co., at the 
Drill Hall, on the 19th inst., bore about five flowers 
on a scape 12 in. long. The flowers are also of 
medium size, with lanceolate sepals, closely spotted 
with pale brown on a creamy-yellow ground, the 
larger and more prominent blotches being about the 
middle. The petals are lanceolate, much broader at 
the base, spotted with brown on the upper half and 
purple on the lower. The lip is ovate, with a 
convolute or rolled up tip, shallowly fringed on the 
margin, with a large crimson blotch in front of the 
crest and a few at the sides. The crest consists of 
four long and a few short teeth. The column is 
spotted with purple on the back. The plant comes 
from the United States of Colombia ; and an Award 
of Merit was accorded it. 
Oiicidium Gravesianum. 
The pseudo-bulbs of this Oncid are oval, much 
compressed, ribbed longitudinally, slightly wrinkled, 
and of a deep brown colour. The scape is about 
18 in. high with a deltoid, branched inflorescence, 
the branches being very long. The sepals are oblong, 
shortly clawed, deep brown and marked transversely 
with a few pale yellow bands, especially near the 
base. The petals are obovate, generally notched at 
the apex, undulated, rich brown, with a narrow yellow 
edge, and a few small transverse bands as in the case 
of the sepals. The lamina of the lip is large, 
triangular, obtuse, with a broad rich brown border 
around a central, yellow, triangular blotch. The 
column is chocolate brown at the base and yellow 
upwards, with rounded, entire yellow wings, spotted 
with brown, and a browm anther cap. It comes from 
Parahiba. An Award of Merit was accorded it when 
shown by Messrs. F. Sander & Co. 
Odontoglossum crispum Ruckerianum. 
We have just received a box of Orchid blooms from 
Mr. Hinde, gardener to M. Wells, Esq., Sale, near 
Manchester, and amongst them was a fine raceme of 
Odontoglossum crispum Ruckerianum from a plant 
having four of such racemes, bearing in the aggregate 
fifty-four blooms. The sepals were suffused on the 
back with rose which shone through, while the inner 
face was beautifully spotted with brownish-red. 
The petals were broader and white, spotted with 
brownish-red, and the lip had a similar blotch on the 
middle with numerous small dots on the side lobes. 
Accompanying the above was a beautiful flower of 
O. Rossii Humeanum with primrose-yellow petals 
heavily blotched with chocolate-brown at the base, 
and a creamy-white lip. There was also a flower of 
the white-lipped Miltonia cuneata, two distinct 
varieties of Odontoglossum triumphans, and Dendro- 
bium Wardianum. 
The Crchid Growers' Calendar 
In my notes last week the word “dipping” should 
have read “ fumigating,” and for “syringing” the 
word " sponging ” should be substituted. I do not 
suppose any Orchid growers Aould syringe his plants 
with soft-soapy water ; but it is well that the 
correction should be made. — C. 
-* 1 -- 
IHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN. 
Anthuriums. —As those plants which were potted 
some time ago commence growing, they will require 
a more liberal supply of water. Fine foliaged 
species such as A. crystallinum, A. acaule, A. macro- 
phyllum, and others, should have the spathes re¬ 
moved as soon as they make their appearance and 
can be removed without injury to the young leaves. 
This will encourage the plants to devote all their 
energy to the production of good foliage. Flowers 
and fruit are immaterial to the ornamental value oj 
the plants in question, and are therefore of no value 
to the cultivator, but, on the contrary, retard the 
growth of the foliage. 
Ma denhair Ferns. —As a rule plants of this 
class are subjected to more shading than is con¬ 
ducive to the best results. When properly exposed 
to light in a house with a moderately high tempera¬ 
ture, the young frondsof A. Ghiesbreghtii(A. scutum), 
A. concinnum and its varieties, A. cuneatum, and 
others assume beautiful tints of pink and red which 
never appear when every ray of direct sunlight is 
excluded. As the summer advances, all of the above 
may be kept in a greenhouse temperature amongst 
subjects that require no shading. 
Golden and Silver Ferns —Do not be in too 
great a hurry to remove the old fronds from plants 
of this class. It should be done gradually as the 
young fronds get developed. The syringe should 
not be employed upon them, otherwise the farina or 
powdery material will get washed off and the appear¬ 
ance of the fronds spoiled for a season. When kept 
wet they are more liable to damping or to get brown, 
an occurrence to be avoided. 
Show and Fancy Pelargoniums. —Weak liquid 
manure may frequently be given now that the pots 
are well filled with roots. Every shoot may be tied 
into its proper place so that there may be no crowd¬ 
ing. All the light possible will now be required to 
prevent the wood from getting drawn. Fumigate on 
the first appearance of green-fly, and especially 
before the flower buds expand, as it cannot be done 
with safety after that time because it causes the 
blossom to drop. 
Primulas. —A sowing may now be made of 
Chinese Primulas for next winter’s flowering. Keep 
the soil equitably moist without getting it sodden 
until the seedlings are up, v'hen they should be 
placed in a light position near the glass without 
exposing them to much sunshine. 
Chrysanthemums. —The uncertain state of the 
v'eather has made it impossible to do justice to 
Chrysanthemums which have been huddled up 
together to their injury, as far as proper exposure to 
light is concerned. In the event of a continuance of 
cold weather a greater amount of space should be given 
the plants, and plenty of ventilation during the day 
to keep them dwarf and sturdy. Before being placed 
in the open air, fumigate to destroy aphides which 
usually secrete themselves amongst the young leaves. 
Gladioli. —Even those intended for late flowering 
should be planted without further delay. The very 
small corms need not be thrown away, because if 
planted in fresh soil they will make young ones of 
good size, and many of them will flower before the 
season is over. The vigour of the flower stems will 
surprise many who have not hitherto tried planting 
in fresh soil of a moderately light character. 
Melons. —As the fruits in the early house show 
signs of approaching maturity by a change of colour, 
reduce the amount of moisture in the atmosphere 
gradually, but keep the roots well supplied with 
tepid water until the fruits are fairly well netted, 
giving attention more particularly to those plants 
which are bearing a heavy crop and are moderately 
firm both in the leaves and stems. About 70° will 
be sufficiently high at night, with a rise of 5 0 to io° 
during the day. 
Strawberries in Pots. —Late varieties, such as 
James Veitch and Sir Charles Napier, may be 
pushed on more rapidly now under the influence of 
longer sunlight and increased natural warmth. Be 
careful, however, on cold nights not to use too much 
artificial heat to keep up the necessary warmth, 
otherwise red spider will increase at an annoying 
rate, particularly near the hot water pipes To pre¬ 
vent this all parts of the house should be well 
damped down during the day, and when shutting up 
Figs.—Some skill must be exercised in the prope r 
maturation of Figs ripened at this time of the year in 
order to insure the full compliment of flavour 
Those started in November should now have arrived 
at the stage when plenty of fire heat should be given 
so that the ventilators may be kept sufficiently open 
on all favourable occasions to encourage the develop¬ 
ment of flavour. All laterals not require to fill space 
and fruit next year should be removed, to prevent 
crowding and admit light as much as possible to the 
fruit. The latter cannot be too fully exposed to 
light and air. The atmosphere should also be kept 
somewhat drier during the ripening stage of the fruit 
Quescions sod snsuieRS. 
*** Correspondents are requested, in order to avoid delay, 
to address all communications to “The Editor” 
or “ The Publisher,” and not to any person bv 
name, unless the correspondence is of a private 
character. Telegrams may be addressed “ Bambusa 
London.” 
Namhs of Plants. — IV. E : 1, Eupatorium 
riparium ; 2, Omphalodes verna; 3, Muscari 
botryoides ; 4, Thuja orientalis aurea. 
Azaleas after flowering. —Azalea : After they 
have finished flowering, pick off all the seed vessels 
ar.d place the plants in a warm pit, or vinery, or 
Peach house at work so as to start them into early 
and vigorous growth. Whatever house you put them 
into, make sure that the plants are well exposed to 
light Syringe them several times a day and close 
the house early, allowing the temperature to run up 
pretty high, at the same time syringing the plants 
and damping down the house" generally. When 
growth has been completed, gradually accustom the 
plants to a lower temperature, after which they may 
be stood in the open air in a slightly shaded position, 
till time to house them in the autumn. 
Planting out Tomatos. — H. Bond -. The exact 
time at which these may be planted in the open 
ground varies with the seasons. Generally speaking, 
the end of May or the beginning of June would be 
soon enough for planting in the open ground, unless 
you have some means of protecting the plants from 
late spring frosts. Should the weather be fine and 
appear settled, you may plant about the end of May, 
or even about the middle of it should you have the 
opportunity of planting them against a wall which 
would afford a considerable amount of protection. 
Have the plants thoroughly hardened off before 
planting them out, and the risk of injury will thereby 
be considerably lessened. If the plants were late in 
being sown, and have been grown on rapidly to get 
them of some size, the hardening off process must be 
particularly attended to, as the succulent stems will 
be unusually tender. 
The Loquat for fruiting. — M. D.: The Loquat 
(Photinia japonica) is fairly hardy in the south of 
England if given the protection of a wall, but it very 
rarely fruits in this country, although it flowers now 
and again in warm and well-favoured localities. We 
should never advise you to plant it as a commercial 
speculation, as the fruit when produced is only of 
moderate quality. For ornamental purposes the 
large leaves are sufficient to recommend the plant 
to those who can give it a suitable situation 
Eulalia japonica variegata — IVm. Joss: As 
this is perfectly hardy you need not hesitate to plant 
it out at once if it has been kept for some time 
previously in a cool house ; if not you should harden 
it off before puting it out, so as to avoid getting the 
young leaves spoiled by late frosts. Any good garden 
soil will suit it, and, in fact, the plant will grow more 
vigorously in the open ground than in pots. There 
is no necessity in your locality to lift it in the autumn, 
because, although the foliage will die down or get 
killed in autumn or winter, the rootstock will 
push away freely enough in the following spring. 
The stems will also flower freely when once the plant 
gets established in the open ground. 
Cattleya citrina and L.elias. —IF. Davis : A 
piece of cork would be too dry to give much satisfac¬ 
tion in the growing of Cattleya ciirina. A better 
plan would be to use small pans, putting plenty of 
clean crocks in them and then the bulbs of the Catt¬ 
leya, packing them with a little fibrous peat and 
sphagnum. Tie the whole into the pans by means 
of wire and then hang the pan upside down. It 
should be grown in a house with an intermediate 
temperature, say from 4S 0 to 50° by night in winter, 
keeping it in the coolest part of the house, but in the 
warmest end from now onwards. When it com¬ 
mences to grow and flower, and until it has finished 
growth, the roots and contents of the pan should be 
kept thoroughly moist by dipping them into the tank 
When resting (say for about six months) very little 
