May 28, 1892. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
017 
subjects. Messrs Paul & Son took the leading place 
for Alpine plants. The leading prizes for fine foliage 
plants, exotic Ferns, and Dracaenas went to Mr. A. 
Offer. 
A large number of exhibits was shown in the 
miscellaneous class. Four large collections of plants 
in the centre of the marquee and others around the 
entrance and sides added greatly to the effect of the 
exhibition One of the four in the centre was con¬ 
tributed by Messrs. B. S. Williams & Son, Upper 
Holloway, and consisted of Palms, Ferns, Orchids, 
Olivias, Amaryllis, etc. Messrs. J. Laing & Sons, 
Forest Hill, had also a collection of Palms, Crotons, 
Caladiums, Begonias, Heaths, and Orchids. Messrs. 
Wm. Cutbush & Son, Highgate, had Rhododendrons, 
Azaleas, Heaths, Palms, etc. Messrs. Wm. Paul & 
Son had standard and dwarf Roses in pots and also 
cut flowers. Mr. Ware had a large collection of 
Tree Paeonies, Azalea mollis, Cannas, etc. Messrs. 
H. Low & Co., Clapton, showed a collection of 
Dendrobiums, Cattleyas, and Cypripedium dellatu- 
lum. Near by was a fine collection of varieties of 
Cattleya Mossiae, C. Mendelii and Miltonias from 
Mr. W. May, gardener to F. C. Jacomb, Esq., 
Cheam Park, Surrey. Messrs. J. Carter & Co., High 
Holborn, had a large collection of single and double 
Petunias, as well as a collection of Cacti in the 
corridor, many of them being in bloom. Messrs. 
Barr & Son, Covent Garden, also had a collection in 
the corridor, consisting of Ixias, Irises, Tulips, 
Herbaceous Paeonies, etc. Near the entrance to this 
place Mr. T. S. Ware had a large collection of 
Tulips, late Daffodils, Paeonies, etc. Messrs. J. 
Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, showed a collection of new 
plants, many of which were certificated. Mr. C. 
Turner had a group of pot Roses. Mr. D. Phillips 
exhibited a collection of show Pelargoniums, some of 
which were new. Mr. R. Scott had a group of 
Palms, Azaleas, Caladiums, Ferns, etc. Medals 
were awarded to most of these groups. 
WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN. 
Winter Flowering Subjects. —Where a sufficient 
stock of rooted cuttings is not now in hand, it may 
still be increased by taking off fresh batches. The 
latter will be useful in prolonging the supplies of the 
respective kinds, by coming into flower at a later 
period than those now rooted and potted off. Sub¬ 
jects that may be mentioned for this purpose 
are Scutellaria mocciniana, Euphorbia fulgens 
(jacquiniaeflora), Begonia insignis, Thyrsacanthus 
rutilans, Salvia boliviensis, S fulgens, Plumbago 
rosea, Vinca rosea, Centropogon Lucyanus and 
others. 
Poinsettias. —Batches of the different varieties 
of Poinsettia may be rooted at intervals from now 
up to August according to requirements, that is, in 
point of numbers and the length of time the supply 
is required. Take off the cuttings with a heel of the 
old wood and they will root with more certainty. 
Anthuriums. —Those of the flowering type such 
as A. Scherzerianum, now that they are flowering, 
may be put in a house with a cooler and more airy 
temperature and they will last all the longer for it. 
Of course they should not be exposed to anything 
like cold draughts, at least until they have been in 
their cool quarters for about a week, so that they 
may get hardened. This will be necessary in pro¬ 
portion to the warmth and moisture of the house in 
which they have been flowered, and the difference in 
temperature of the house to which they are taken. 
Aphelandras. —Cuttings of old plants are fre¬ 
quently taken, but the best plants are obtained from 
seeds. This applies to the dwarf-growing kinds, 
such as A. aurantiaca and its varieties, as well as 
A. fascinator and others. If already germinated 
they should be potted on as soon as they can be 
properly handled, and kept in a warm place close to 
the glass to urge them into growth. 
Salvias. —The stock of Salvias, including S. 
azurea, S. a. grandiflora, S. rutilans, S. involucrata 
Bethelli, S. cacalifolia, and others being grown cn 
for autumn and early winter flowering, should be 
kept pinched at the present stage of their growth, to 
make them bushy ; later on they may be stood in 
the open air in some sunny position on a bed of 
ashes, where they should be well attended to in the 
matter of watering and staking. 
Peaches. —The fruits in the earliest started house 
will now be colouring and fast approaching maturity. 
Full exposure is necessary to their proper colouring, 
with abundance of ventilation during the day and a 
little at night. Before the final stage is reached 
give a watering with tepid liquid manure, and more 
liquid manure may be used on this occasion than 
previously. Syringing may be continued as long as 
possible while there is no danger of spoiling the 
fruit. This will keep down red spider till the latest 
fruits are gathered ; and it may be continued again 
afterwards. 
Bedding Plants. —No time should now be lost 
in getting out any Calceolarias which may still be 
on hand. The frames and store places may also be 
cleared of such things as Stocks, Asters, Chinese 
Pinks, Helichrysums, Acrocliniums, and all those 
half-hardy subjects which have been raised under 
glass. The careful cultivator will have thoroughly 
hardened off all these things before now. Tender 
and subtropical subjects would hardly be safe in the 
open air yet except in sheltered places where pro¬ 
tection may be given. Hardening off may of course 
be proceeded with. 
Onions. —Where the seedlings are sufficiently 
advanced, proceed with thinning before the plants 
get in any way crowded. The distance apart to 
which they should be thinned will depend upon the 
size to which the bulbs are to be grown. For 
ordinary purposes, about 3 in. or 4 in. will be 
sufficient, as bulbs of moderate size and well ripened 
keep better than those of unusual dimensions. Some 
prefer to do the thinning gradually, so that they may 
use the young Onions as required, but the disturb¬ 
ance of the ground by pulling up Onions of some 
size often enables the maggot to get in the ground 
to injure those that are left. 
Beetroot and Parsley. —Where necessary these 
should be thinned and transplanted in showery 
weather, because they take better to the fresh soil 
after the operation and entail less or no trouble in 
watering afterwards. It is not a usual plan to 
transplant Beetroot, but if carefully performed, the 
plants succeed perfectly. In making holes to receive 
the young plants, be careful to make them sufficiently 
deep to receive the slender tap root without doubling 
up, c otherwise the roots cannot help becoming 
deformed. The soil should have been properly pre¬ 
pared in autumn, so that the tap-root will have no 
difficulty in proceeding straight downwards, for this 
means all the difference between well and badly 
formed roots. 
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CALOCHORTUSES. 
Mariposa Lilies. 
Among all hardy and half-hardy bulbs there are 
none more pleasing or unique in form than these 
grand “Butterfly Tulips’’ or “Mariposa Lilies’’ 
from Mexico and California. When well-grown, 
there are none of the half-hardy Orchids that can 
compare with the Calochortuses for beauty and ex¬ 
quisite colouring. I have grown them on a warm 
sandy border in the open for several years, and as a 
subject for cold frames with such Cape bulbs as 
Freesias, Sparixias, &c., there are none more 
suitable or easily grown with a little care. 
They need a sandy an 1 open compost. If raised 
and afforded the protection of any old and almost 
worn out frame, I have never had the least trouble 
in securing a fair return for the little attention they 
require. Peat or leaf soil in equal proportions to 
the sandy soil, with a very little thoroughly decayed 
stable manure, will grow them well. They increase 
from offsets almost as freely as Freesias, and if 
treated in the same manner are certain to afford 
every satisfaction. 
As cut flowers, the Calochortuses are grand; 
coming on a strong and wiry stem of medium length, 
and lasting in a cut state almost as long as an Orchid. 
Keep the soil very dry during late autumn and win¬ 
ter, and do not start them quite so early as you 
would the Freesias. At the end of February it is an 
excellent plan to give the bed a thorough watering, 
and so start them into growth at a little later date. 
Let them have plenty of water while in active 
growth ; providing your compost is of a sufficiently 
porous nature and slightly raised, there will be little 
fear of giving them too much when in full growth 
and just previously to their flowering ; after this has 
taken place, cease to water and let them dry off and 
be fully exposed to sun and air. For pot work there 
is no need for different treatment than the Freesias, 
Ixias, etc.— Experience. 
Obituary. 
We regret to record the death on the 9th inst. at 
Althorp Park, Northampton, of Mr. Edmund Cole, 
gardener to Earl Spencer, aged 52 years. Thiswell- 
known and much respected gardener, who had long 
suffered from chronic Bright’s disease, first became 
a head gardener in the service of F. W Dalman. 
Esq., at Alverstoke, Gosport, in 1871, and there 
proved himself to be a most successful grower and 
exhibitor of plants, fruits, and vegetables at the 
Cosport, Portsmouth, and Fareham Exhibitions, his 
most successful productions being his well known 
stove plants. He was also very successful with his 
Grapes, and was the first to exhibit pot vines at the 
Southsea Shows. He showed black and white 
varieties in the form of arches, and these were usually 
the principal features of the exhibition In January, 
1878, he entered the service of Earl Spencer, at 
Althorp, and took in hand the remodelling of the ex¬ 
tensive gardens and pleasure grounds, and the re¬ 
heating on modern principles of plant and fruit 
houses, all of which he carried out in a most 
satisfactory manner. In 1882 he introduced into 
commerce the fine seedling Potato, “ Cole's 
Favourite,’ which won the prize of ten guineas at 
the Northampton Seedling Potato Exhibition, offered 
for the best cropping and best table quality seedling 
then on trial. It also obtained certificates at Chis¬ 
wick and other places. In 1887 he introduced the 
Althorp Marrow, a very fine white wrinkled Marrow 
Pea, which was sent out by Messrs. J. Perkins & Son, 
of Northampton. 
He was an active and useful member of the North¬ 
amptonshire Horticultural Society, and a successful 
exhibitor at its exhibitions, at which, with Grapes 
especially, he was seldom beaten. His services as a 
judge were also in much demand at Shrewsbury and 
other shows in the midland counties. He enjoyed the 
friendship of a wide circle of gardening acquaintances, 
and the respect and confidence of his noble employer, 
as well as of those who served under him. Mr. Cole 
leaves a widow and six children to mourn his loss. 
--*•- 
Questions add snsroeRs. 
%* Correspondents are requested, in order to avoid delay, 
to address all communications to “The Editor" 
or “ The Publisher,” and not to any person bv 
name, unless the correspondence is of a private 
character. Telegrams may be addressed “ Bambusa, 
London." 
Names of Plants.— C. S . : The broad-leaved 
Garlic, Allium ursinum.— Charles Dixon : The plant 
with yellow flowers is Pittosporum bicolor; the 
other with blue flowers is Rhaphithamnus buxifolius 
of Myers.— T. H. : Euphorbia chamaecyparisias ; 2, 
Sedum Rhodiola ; 3, Alyssum saxatile ; 4, P'ritillaria 
Meleagris, one flower being a pale variety of it : 3, 
Ranunculus aconitifolius flore pleno ; 6, Croton not 
recognised; 7, Adiantum decorum; 8, Pteris 
tremula; 9, Selaginella Braunii. — IF. J. D. : 
Doronicum Pardalianches. 
Black Varnish.— Would some reader who has 
tried black varnish as a paint for greenhouses be so 
good as to give their experience. We lay very low, 
and white lead paint does not stand long, and my 
employer is anxious to try black varnish, but I have 
never heard of its being used for such work.—IF. K. 
rWe think you would be much better advised to try 
the Indestructible Paint. We used some (stone 
colour) five years ago and it has stood admirably.— 
Ed.] 
Tomato House. —White : The most suitable struc¬ 
ture for Tomatos is a span-roofed house with a roof 
no higher than sufficient to accommodate the plants, 
say about 10 ft. or 12 ft. high in the centre. Toma¬ 
tos are, however, very accommodating, and may be 
grown in various sorts of houses provided the 
cultural treatment is suitable. If you want a house 
of some width you may make beds down the centre and 
round the sides, with sufficient pathways to get about 
to water the plants, stop and tie them, as well as 
other necessary work. Sufficient hot-water piping 
may be taken round the sides of the building to heat 
it, and if very' wide some pipes may be taken down 
the centre. Heat is chiefly wanted in spring to start 
the plants into vigorous growth, after which less and 
less will be necessary till it may be left off altogether. 
Give plenty of ventilation on all favourable occasions, 
especially when in flower to favour the distribution 
of the pollen and the setting of the fruit. Your 
flowers are evidently dropping because they have not 
been fertilised; we would suggest (without exact 
evidence of the attendant circumstances) that you 
give more ventilation and keep the atmosphere of the 
house rather dry. The base or foundation of the 
house you intend to build should not be more than 
12 in. or 18 in. above the ground, above which height 
all should be glass, even including the ventilators. 
