July 2, 1892. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
97 
Cattleya princeps. 
The stems of this Cattleya are terete, angled, and 
furrowed, resembling those of C. guttata, and 
terminated by two oblong, leathery, deep green 
leaves. The sepals are oblong, the lateral ones 
being strongly falcate, yellowish, heavily shaded, and 
spotted with crimson-purple, and also shaded with 
brown. The petals are spathulate, greenish-yellow 
at the base, and of a clearer purple upwards than the 
sepals, and yellow at the edge. The three-lobed lip 
is bent above the base, with ovate, white, lateral 
lobes; the middle lobe is clawed with an oblate 
lamina, heavily covered with purple warts on a white 
or palest lilac ground ; the long claw is yellow 
slightly mottled with purple. Both this and the last 
named were shown by Messrs. F. Sander & Co., St. 
Albans, and received Awards of Merit. 
Dendrobium Souvenir d’Alec. 
The stems of this Dendrobe vary from i ft. to 2 ft. 
in height, and are terete, slightly thickened at the 
nodes, bearing oblong-lanceolate leaves, which are 
deciduous, in two ranks. The medium sized flowers 
are borne in lateral clusters of one to three, and are 
pure white. The sepals are oblong, the petals 
lanceolate, and the lip ovate and revolute, undulated 
at the edges, and showing the faintest tint of yellow 
on the disc. An Award of Merit was accorded it 
when shown by Hamar Bass, Esq. (gardener, Mr. 
James Hamilton), Byrkley, Burton-on-Trent. 
Cattleya Warneri marmorata. 
Altogether this is a dwarf habited plant with 
rather showy flowers. The linear-oblong sepals are 
of an intense purple with a white stripe along the 
lower half of the midrib. The petals are elliptic 
with a white midrib, and splashed with white 
towards the sides on an intense purple ground. The 
lamina of the lip is crisped at the edges, and of a 
darker hue than the petals ; the side lobes and tube 
are paler and splashed with white. A p'ant was 
exhibited by J. T. Gabriel, Esq., 32, Palace Road, 
Streatham Hill, and received an Award of Merit. 
Cncidium Lanneanum. 
The flowers of imported specimens vary considerably 
with paler and darker hues. The sepals and petals 
may be described as of a rich brown reticulated with 
yellow, because the brown spots or blotches are so 
numerous that they become amalgamated almost 
into one piece. The lip is also very rich in colour, 
having the side lobes and all the basal area of a deep 
purple, while thereniform lamina is of a soft yet rich 
violet purple. An Award of Merit was accorded a 
plant shown by E. H. Woodall, Esq. (gardener, Mr. 
Hughes), St. Nicholas House, Scarborough. 
Grammatophyllum Seegerianum 
The stately and showy character of this Orchid (of 
which we gave an illustration in our issue for 
January 2) is now getting pretty well known ; and it 
only remains for Orchid growers generally to make 
it popular. A single scape Will bear from twenty- 
five to fifty or more flowers, not merely of small size, 
and as one would expect, but each individual of 
handsome size. The sepals and petals are heavily 
marked with large brown blotches on a yellowish 
ground. The lip is smaller, suffused with sepia 
brown on the side lobes, and has three lines of a 
similar hue extending to the apex of the middle 
lobe and forking towards their apices. An Award 
of Merit was accorded it when shown by C. J. 
Lucas, Esq 
Cypripedium Telemachus. 
The seed parent of this hybrid was C. Lawrenceanum, 
and the pollen parent C. niveum. The leaves are 
notably broad and short, elliptic, cuspidate, rather 
heavily netted with dark green on a greenish-yellow 
ground, and 3 in. to 3^ in. long. The scape is one- 
flowered and about 18 in. high. The upper sepal is 
rose with green veins and a white edge. The petals 
are green at the base, and rose on the upper two-thirds 
of their length, mottled with black. The lip is pale 
dull purple and marked with deeper coloured spots. 
A plant shown by Messrs. J. Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, 
received an Award of Merit. 
Laelia purpurata. 
A very superior form of this superb Laelia was in 
bloom recently in the collection formed by A. Gill, 
Esq., at Fairfield, Aberdeen. The sepals and petals 
were pure white, and exceptionally wide, and the 
lip dark purple and of great size and substance. 
Mr. Grigor, who is the gardener at Fairfield, is proud 
of it, and well he may be. — J. McNab. 
WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN. 
Anthuriums. —As the spathes of A. Scherzeria- 
num and its varieties, as well as A. Rothschildianum, 
A. ferrierense, A. Andreanum, and others of that 
class, get shabby they should be cut off and the 
plants placed in a warmer atmosphere to encourage 
fresh growth. This as a rule is easy of accomplish¬ 
ment if the plants have during their flowering period 
been kept in a cool place. 
Bougainvillea glabra. —If properly managed 
two crops of bloom in a season can be obtained from 
this plant grown in a stove or other warm house. 
After flowering they may be rested a while, and 
started into fresh growth. A finer display may be 
obtained from plants in a greenhouse, but only one 
crop a season can be expected, owing to the slower 
development of growth. Those plants from which 
it is intended to take two crops of bloom should be 
grown in pots as they can be transferred to a cooler 
house when it is intended to rest them. 
Amaryllis. —Late batches of this class of plants 
hould not be overlooked in the multiplicity of work 
at this period of the year. The ripening of the 
foliage should not be unduly hastened by entirely 
withholding water. Rather give the bulbs a full 
supply until the leaves begin to change colour 
naturally, when a gradually smaller quantity may be 
used. 
Valottas. —As the Valottas commence to throw 
up their spikes of bloom bring them into more 
prominent positions where their beauty will be seen. 
They profit largely by applications of liquid manure 
and plenty of light. A succession can be kept up 
by growing the bulbs in houses of different tempera¬ 
tures, or by retarding some in a cool frame. 
Chrysanthemums. —Plenty of attention must 
now be given to Chrysanthemums which are making 
rapid growth. Copious waterings must be given 
during the prevalence of dry weather, but manure 
water will not be necessary till the buds begin to 
develop. The stems must be securely staked lest 
they get broken down by blustering wind, especially 
when accompanied by heavy showers of rain. 
Vineries. —Succession houses where the grapes 
are now ripe should be kept cool and freely ven¬ 
tilated, particularly when the weather is bright, and 
unless there be a succession of cold wet days, 
artificial heat may be dispensed with. This cannot 
be done, however, in the case of those houses where 
the grapes are just commencing to colour. A warm, 
dry atmosphere must be maintained with free 
ventilation, and all damping down must be done 
early in the day. 
Peaches on Open Walls —Continue to lay in 
the young wood of Peaches and Nectarines on the 
open walls so that the necessary amount of wood to 
properly cover the same can be determined. The 
foliage of one shoot should not be allowed to over¬ 
hang that of another, at all events not to any extent. 
The superfluous wood may then be removed at once. 
Young trees are liable to grow too extensively, and to 
produce branches liable to disturb the balance of 
the tree. Such excessively strong shoots should be 
tied down to a hoiizontal position, and any laterals 
they may make removed to repress their undesirable 
vigour. 
Cherries on Walls.— See to the netting of trees 
on walls as soon as the fruits commence to colour, 
otherwise the birds will play havoc with them in a 
few days, particularly if the weather is dry and food 
is scarce. A forked stick or two should be used to 
keep the nets off the trees, otherwise the birds alight¬ 
ing on the nets can easily get at the fruit. 
Strawberries. —The layering of runners in pots 
for next winter’s forcing should not longer be 
delayed, otherwise it means loss of time, and good 
sized plants and well-ripened crowns will be out of 
the question. Use a compost of good substantial 
loam with a little well-decayed cow manure. 
Roses.—Owing to the dry weather that has 
hitherto prevailed, green-fly is proving rather 
troublesome on Roses, and the leaf-rolling cater¬ 
pillars are as plentiful as ever. A close watch will 
have to be kept on the latter, or they will do 
incalculable mischief to the unfolding blossoms, that 
require all the support they can get in the way of 
foliage. Clean water applied with some force by 
means of the garden engine would do much to free 
the bushes of aphides, and if necessary strong soap¬ 
suds might be applied in the case of valuable plants. 
Annuals. — Late sown kinds will now require 
thinning ; it is a mistake to think that a better dis¬ 
play can be obtained from thick sowings, because 
the plants and flowers are smaller and their glory 
of short duration; the more crowded they are 
the fewer flowers are produced, as branching of the 
stems is impossible. A droughty time serves to 
hasten the evil, by causing the annuals to run to 
flower and seed directly. 
Questions sno snsujeRs. 
*** Correspondents are requested, in order to avoid delay, 
to address all communications to “ The Editor ” 
or " The Publisher,” and not to any person bv 
name, unless the correspondence is of a private 
character. Telegrams may be addressed “ Bambusa, 
London.” 
Quassia Water. —Black Fly : The formulais very 
simple, and has often been given in these columns. 
Boil 40ZS. of quassia chips (obtainable at a chemist) 
in a gallon of soft water ; strain off the chips, and 
dissolve 4 ozs. of soft soap in the liquid as it cools. 
Use it when cold, and about a quarter of an hour 
afterwards give a good syringing with clear water. 
Sprinkling tobacco powder through a dredger on the 
effected shoots while wet will answer just as well if 
you can get at the shoots readily. 
Paint for Hot-water Pipes. —J. B. S. : Tar 
should not be used under any circumstances what¬ 
ever. It is most injurious to plant life, and once 
used is most difficult and troublesome to get off again. 
Lampblack and boiled Linseed oil is the best com¬ 
position. Get the lampblack beaten up to a fine 
powder, and add oil until the mixture is of the con¬ 
sistency of thin paint, and put it on the pipes when 
warm if possible. 
Parsley — Semper : For winter use sowings are 
usually made about the middle of this month, a little 
earlier or later according to locality. It is best to 
sow in beds where they are to grow, so that the pro¬ 
tection of a frame or of mats can be afforded in bad 
weather. Thin out as soon as the seedlings are large 
enough, and water well in dry weather. 
Liquid Mnaure. —Tyro : The specially prepared 
fertilisers are appreciated by amateurs having small 
gardens because they give little troub’e as regards 
application, and can be readily obtained, where¬ 
as horse and sheep droppings and cow manure 
are often very difficult to get. If either of these 
are procurable the best way of using them is to 
fill a small, coarse-grained bag and sink it in the 
tub from which you dip for watering. If you put in 
fresh manure twice a week, and every other time add 
a good handful of soot to the manure, you will have 
a very useful stimulant for all growing plants. 
Elm Seeds.— Y .: Collect the seeds and sow them 
at once, whilst green. 
Medals. — Experto crede : We do not know on 
what basis the selection is made. You should apply 
to the trustees for the information. 
Layering. — G. W. : Thompson, in The Gardeners' 
Assistant, describes ten different methods of pro¬ 
pagating plants by layers, but the most general plan 
is to layer by tongueing, and Carnations are mostly 
layered in this way. You remove all the leaves from 
the part which is to go underground, and then make 
a clean cut upwards, and on the under side, from one 
node to the base of the one above it. Fix the layer 
with the divided portions separate in some light 
sandy soil, give a good watering, and the operation is 
complete. In layering Pinks some growers do not 
tongue them, but simply make an incision between 
the nodes, and insert a small bit of wood to keep the 
cut parts asunder. 
Double Ic-land Poppy.— H. Bugden : About two 
years ago or thereby, we described a double orange- 
coloured form of the Iceland Poppy (Papaver 
nudicaule), and therefore quite distinct from that 
you sent us. The wavy and crumpled white outer 
petals surround a series of spathulate ones, which are 
also white ; the centre is filled up with sulphur yellow 
and linear petals, so that on the whole it is distinct 
from anything we have seen and very pretty. By 
seed-sowing and selection you might be able to obtain 
a pure white one, as well as others in which the 
petals are all yellow. We certainly should not rest 
satisfied with the acquisition as it is without some 
attempt at improvement. 
Names of Plants.— T. S.\ i, Spiraea Aruncus 
2, Spiraea discolor ariaefolia; 3, Semele (Ruscus) 
androgyna ; 4, Pyrus baccata ; 5, Papaver orientate 
bracteatum ; 6 , Asparagus plumosus; 7 , Asparagus' 
plumosus nanus.— J. S 1. Cotoneaster frigida ; 2, 
Acer platanoides laciniatum probably; 3, Ilex 
balearica ; 4, Dactylis glomerata elegantissima ; 5, 
Philadelphus coronarius ; 6, Ruscus Hypophyllum.— 
Dryas, Hawick : 1, Iris virginica ; 2, Iris graminifolia ; 
3, Iris sibirica; 4, Rosa spinosissima, a double 
variety, but we cannot say which ; 5, Senecio Doroni- 
cum ; 6. Cyrtomium falcatum ; 7, Mertensia 
sibirica ; 8, Anemone rivularis ; 9, Diervilla rosea. 
Irish Shamrock. — Dryas, Hawick: It is very 
doubtful whether anyone can tell for certainty what 
was the plant used by St. Patrick, and to which the 
name Shamrock has been given. But we know what 
