August 20, 1892. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
809 
variety only grows about 15 in. to 18 in., bearing two 
to four flowers at the apex. The upper sepal is 
roundly cordate, deep yellow and slightly suffused 
with buff; the lateral sepals are oblong and more 
decidedly buff. The petals are roundly cordate and 
deep yellow'. The middle lobe of the small lip is 
yellow, while the lateral ones are triangular and 
brown, with a prominent, nearly white crest on the 
middle. An Award of Merit was accorded it when 
shown by Messrs. Charlesworth, Shuttleworth, & 
Co., Heaton, Bradford, and Park Road, Clapham. 
Cyprlpedium caudatum Luxembourg var. 
Altogether this is a vigorous growing variety with 
linear-lanceolate, channelled and leathery leaves as 
long as the scape, or longer. The large upper sepal 
is bright yellow, netted with darker veins, and 
having pale blotches between the veins, and the 
outer face is even darker. The lower sepal is 
similar to the upper one, or has more of the pale, 
nearly white, blotches between the larger veins. 
The petals are long and twisted and of a deep brown, 
except at the base where they are reticulated with 
green on a pale yellow ground. The lip is green and 
netted with brownish lines, and the sides of the 
pouch are pubescent and spotted with crimson or 
purple. The staminode is brown with a yellow 
centre. A First-class Certificate was accorded it 
when shown by M. Godefroy Lebeuf, 5, Rue d’Edin- 
bourg, Paris. 
Twin-flowened Maxillaria venusta. 
When this comes into flower we usually see plants 
of good size bearing only two flowers. A specimen 
is now flowering with Mr. P. McArthur, 4, Maida 
Vale, and which although it consists of only six 
pseudo-bulbs bears five flowers, two of which are 
grown together by their backs and face different 
ways like the Siamese twins. The plant is grown in 
a cool house, where it succeeds much better than in 
an intermediate house. The plant is also somewhat 
different in habit from the ordinary form, inasmuch 
as the flowers proceed at right angles from the base 
of the plant and hang over the edges of the pot. 
Whether it will retain this habit in after years we 
cannot say, but at present it is very distinct in this 
respect. The flowers it may be recollected are pure 
white with exception of the disc of the lip and are 
very fragrant, the odour, if agreeable, being an 
additional recommendation to any flower. 
Vanda Hookeriana. 
I called the other day at Parkfield, near Worcester, 
the charming residence of C. W. Lea, Esq. Among 
the many fine Orchids he delights to cultivate, none 
to my mind can compare with the beautiful Vanda 
Hookeriana. The plants are about 5 ft. high, being 
grown on upright rafts and neatly mossed between 
the growths. They stand in the end of a span-roofed 
stove, of ordinary temperature, fully exposed to the 
light and sun all the year round, and are never 
allowed to get dry. The result is fine, vigorous 
plants, and a glorious crop of flowers. — A . J. 
Odontoglossum hastilabium. 
Mr. D. Doncaster, Sheffield, has a wonderful 
strong spike of Odontoglossum hastilabium in flower 
just now : it is over 4 ft. high with eight side shoots, 
from 9 in. to 12 in. long, and carries 124 finely 
developed flowers. The bulb that bears this spike is 
an enormous one. The plant is grown among the O. 
crispums .—A . J. 
-- 
WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN, 
Dracaenas. —Many of the plants which did good 
service in spring and early summer have now got too 
tall, and may have their tops taken off and rooted in 
a propagating frame, or a handful of moss may be 
tied round the stem, after having ringed it to 
induce the emission of roots. When roots have been 
pretty plentifully developed in the moss, the top may 
be severed from the stem, and, after being potted, 
placed in a close frame or stove to complete the 
rooting process. 
Pandanus Veitchii. —The present is a conve¬ 
nient time for taking off the cuttings of Pandanus 
Veitchi, so that they may get thoroughly rooted be¬ 
fore the advent of winter. The smaller and best 
variegated suckers always prove the most satisfactory 
for decorative purposes, and retain their variegation 
better than those that are strong and vigorous. Poor 
soil is always more conducive to this end than rich 
material. 
Azaleas, New Holland Plants —AH plants of 
this class which have not hitherto been placed out of 
doors will derive advantage and ripen their wood 
better by being placed out of doors for a few weeks. 
Stand them on a bed of ashes in a sheltered position 
where they will not be subjected to too great an 
amount of sunshine, at least for a few days after 
they have been stood out, otherwise the foliage will 
suffer. 
Show and Fancy Pelargoniums. —The old 
plants that were dried off and cut back some time 
ago will now have started into fresh growth, and may 
be repotted in smaller sized pots after the balls 
of soil have been considerably reduced. The plants 
may then be placed in a cool airy house where they 
may be allowed to grow away slowly. Water the 
soil immediately after potting to settle it. Firm pot¬ 
ting is also a matter of importance. 
Calceolarias. —The seedlings of the main batch 
of plants should now be potted off, using a compost 
of good fibrous loam, a little well-decayed cow 
manure and sand sufficient to keep the whole in an 
open and porous condition. The plants must not be 
subjected to much sunshine at this time of the year. 
Cyclamens. —The old plants which were retained 
for flowering another year and which were kept in 
a semi-resting condition should now be repotted into 
fresh material, if that has not already been done. 
The fresh growth being made is a sign that the 
operation should no longer be delayed. They may 
be transferred to a shelf in the greenhouse. Seed¬ 
lings that were germinated in the early part of the 
year should now be transferred to their flowering 
pots. Keep the crowns of the corms just above the 
soil, otherwise many of the buds will damp off during 
the dull days of autumn and winter. 
Chinese Primulas. —The young plants that were 
raised from seeds sown in April should now be ready 
for transferring to 48 size pots, and returned to the 
cold frame in w'hich they have been grown during 
summer. All flower buds that make their appear¬ 
ance should be removed as soon as they can be laid 
hold of, to encourage good and rapid growth. Later 
on all the stronger plants may be transferred to 32 
size pots in which they may be flowered. A little 
heat will be necessary later on, when the nights get 
longer and colder. 
Cinerarias. — The different batches must be 
potted on as they require it and kept near the glass 
to prevent drawing. Low frames are the best for 
them, and if facing the north so much the better. 
Green fly is generally the most troublesome pest to 
which they are subjected,and prompt remedies should 
be applied, in the form of fumigation, whenever the 
insects make their appearance. 
Melons. —The.late batch of plants should now be 
getting established. Growth should be encouraged 
by maintaining a genial atmosphere by means of 
artificial heat at nights, and the plants will feel the 
benefit of syringing twice a day when the weather is 
fine. Air must, however, be given freely, otherwise 
the growth made will be weak and by no means 
consolidated. Mulch the soil over the roots and less 
water will have to be applied, much to the advantage 
of the plants. 
Onions. —As the leaves begin to turn yellow they 
may be bent down to encourage ripening. Those 
with moderately thick necks may be treated in this 
way, but if the necks are of great thickness and the 
bulb small, they' may simply be left for use as re¬ 
quired, for they will never make good keeping bulbs. 
The good sound bulbs may be pulled in a few days, 
and laid out in the sun to ripen. 
Celery. —Earth up Celery in dry weather, taking 
care not to allow the soil to tumble into the crowns. 
A thorough watering may be given to late crops a 
few hours before commencing to earth up the 
plants. Pull off suckers and all the small, useless 
leaves. 
Leeks. —Keep filling up the trenches as the plants 
grow, in the case of those that are being blanched. 
If they were planted on the level instead of trenches 
the soil may simply be drawn up against the stems, 
as is sometimes done in the case of Celery. 
Peas. —As the early crops get gathered pull up 
the stems and prepare the ground for some other 
crop, such as early Cabbages, to be planted out next 
month ; or Cauliflowers to be planted out early in 
spring. It may be laid down in Strawberries directly. 
In any case trench the ground and manure it well, 
especially if for Strawberries, and after treading the 
ground, take out shallow furrows 30 n. apart, and 
plant the Strawberries directly. 
Questions md snsuieRS. 
*,* Correspondents are requested, in order to avoid delay, 
to address all communications to “The Editor” 
or “ The Publisher," and not to any person be 
name, unless the correspondence is of a privat, 
character. Telegrams may be addressed " Bambusa, 
London." 
Cauliflower and Brussels Srouts Clubbed — 
A. L , Leeds : It is the custom with many gardeners 
to raise their stock of Cabbages, Cauliflower, etc. on 
shallowly-dug borders every year. After the required 
number of seedlings have been transferred to their 
permanent quarters, the remainder are allowed to 
struggle with one another for an existence for almost 
the rest of the season. Now, by this practice the 
borders get filled with the spores of the fungus that 
produces clubbing, and when seeds are again sown 
on that ground in the following year, the roots of the 
seedlings get diseased before they are transplanted, 
and although the fact may escape observation for 
the time being, the seedlings never get a chance to 
make good growth before the fungus has almost 
destroyed the roots in the open ground. You should 
avoid planting the Brassica tribe on the same piece 
of ground at shorter intervals than three years. 
Furthermore the beds in which the seeds are sown 
should be trenched 2 ft deep in the autumn or 
winter, at the same time giving the ground a good 
sprinkling with gas lime so as to kill the spores that 
may be in the soil. In this way it is possible to get 
healthy seedlings free of the disease, and which, 
being planted on clean ground, ought to give satis¬ 
faction almost any season. Deep and clean culture 
should always be aimed at with everything, especially 
in old gardens. 
Fruits to Name. — J. C. : Apple, Irish Peach.— 
Correspondents sending fruits to be named are requested, 
where possible, to send fair average examples, to number 
them carefully; and to pack them in boxes that will not 
be liable to get broken in transit. 
Hardiness of the Hydrangea.— W. Guest. There 
are several species of Hydrangea that are hardier 
in England than H. hortensis and its' varieties, but 
with exception of H. paniculata there is no other 
really distinct kind, we believe, that in any way ap¬ 
proaches the ornamental character of H. hortensis. 
We do not know that experiments have been tried 
with it, but it would certainly oe worth while trying 
some. For instance, good specimens might be 
started with, planting them in a dry and warm situa¬ 
tion so as to thoroughly ripen their wood in autumn. 
When planted out in good soil, the plants make such 
rampant growth and continue so late in autumn that 
they have no time to ripen the wood before frost sets 
in. Of course in a dry and sunny position grow'th 
would generally be poor, as the Hydrangea likes a 
good supply of moisture all through the summer 
months. Holes might, however, be dug out and the 
sides built round with cemented bricks, or with con¬ 
crete, or simply puddled with a layer of impermeable 
clay so as to hold water when required. A drain 
pipe could be placed in the lowest part of these 
holes, or sunk tanks, if they might so be termed, and 
furnished with a stopper so as to retain a sufficient 
supply of moisture during the summer months or 
till the plants had finished flowering ; after which 
the drain pipe could be opened, and the roots 
thoroughly drained to encourage the ripening of the 
wood. 
Bedding Violas.— A. L. Jameson: In your 
locality there should be no difficulty in wintering the 
young plants or rooted cuttings in the open air. 
They are perfectly hardy, and notwithstanding the 
fact that several of the varieties are liable to die off, 
it is not by reason of the cold, for many of them will 
behave in that way during summer. The cultivation 
cf those with a weak constitution should be discour¬ 
aged, unless for very special reasons on account of 
their great beauty. Make up a bed under the shelter 
of a wall, or in any sheltered, but open position, not 
overhung by trees. Improve the staple of the 
natural soil by adding a considerable quantity of leaf 
soil and sand, especially if the natural soil is inclined 
to be heavy. The cuttings may be inserted now or a 
little later on, after the newly-dug soil has been 
pressed firm and levelled. The suckers or young 
shoots that come up from the base make the best 
plants, and should be inserted firmly and then 
watered. Shade during the middle of the day for a 
week or so, if the sun is bright. 
White Lupin Seeds — J. C. : The seeds you have 
obtained are those of Lupinous albus, supposed to be 
of Egyptian origin or from the western shores of Asia 
Minor, bordering upon the Mediterranean. The 
species is, however, largely cultivated in several of 
the south European countries bordering upon the 
Mediterranean. The seeds are, as you say, very 
bitter in the raw state, but when boiled they lose their 
bitterness and any other deletrious properties they 
may possess, and constitute a useful article of food, 
largely used in Eastern countries from ancient times 
to the present d ay. We are not surprised the seeds 
should find their way to this country as an article of 
human food. 
Names of Plants.— Omega : The Oswego Tea 
(Monarda didyma). P. M : 1, Verbascum Chaixii; 
2, Galega officinalis alba ; 3, Tradescantia virginica 
alba ; 4, Campanula Trachelium alba semiplena; 
