140 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
November 2, 1895. 
HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 
Bulbs in the Flower Garden. 
Last week our chat took the direction of discussing 
what kinds of spring-flowering bulbs were suitable 
for planting in beds and borders in the outdoor 
flower garden. Tulips, however, occupied nearly the 
whole of our time, and thus we have had to leave the 
consideration of the other plants which should find a 
place in it until a later issue. The Tulips were well 
deserving of a column to themselves last week, 
although they are by no means the only plants that 
must receive a notice. 
Narcissi. —Probably these comenext in decorative 
value to the Tulips, and certainly they are quite as 
easy to grow. To do them full justice the bulbs 
should be put into the ground some time during 
August. Where they have been planted on lawns, 
under trees, or in shady nooks, in batches or clumps 
in a semi-naturalised manner there is nothing what¬ 
ever to hinder planting thus early ; but where it is 
proposed to fill beds with them another tale may be 
told. It is only natural that the summer-flowering 
plants should be allowed to remain as long as the 
weather will allow them to keep a presentable 
appearance, but now the frost has made short work 
of things and the planting of spring flowers must 
receive attention. The bulbs should be planted not 
less than four inches deep, that is to say about the 
same depth as recommended for the Tulip. As the 
severe weather approaches a mulching of short well- 
decayed stable manure may be given, about six 
inches in thickness, for this will not only tend to the 
better protection of the bulbs, but will assist in 
giving them some of the nutriment that Narcissi 
love. 
Broadly speaking, the Narcissi are split up into 
three divisions according to the length of the trumpet. 
Thus, in the group Magni-Coronati the crown or 
trumpet is about the same length as the segments of 
the perianth, sometimes a little longer; in the group 
Medio-Coronati, the crown is usually about half as 
long as the perianth segments, although it is slightly 
longer in a few instances; and in the group Parvi- 
Coronati the crown is less than half as long as the 
divisions of the perianth. If it is desired to have a 
few named varieties then it will be necessary to select 
a few that will be the most suitable for bedding pur¬ 
poses, and among these should be included Glory 
of Leiden, bright yellow with a remarkably large 
perianth ; Emperor, perianth deep primrose and 
trumpet rich yellow ; Empress, perianth white and 
trumpet bright yellow; and J. B. M. Camm, perianth 
white and trumpet a soft chrome-yellow. All these 
are well-known single varieties belonging to Group I. 
Double-flowered sorts are not nearly so graceful as 
the single ones, although one or two maybe included 
for the sake of variety. N. pseudo-Narcissus plenus 
and N. telamonius plenus are two of the very best. 
Several good sorts should be selected from Group 
No. II.; Sir Watkin, perianth rich sulphur, and the 
cup yellow, suffused with orange ; and King of the 
Netherlands, something like Sir Watkin in colour 
but with a larger flower and a more spreading cup, 
being two sorts well worthy of a place in any collec¬ 
tion however limited. Group No. III. includs the well- 
known N. poeticus, which is most suitable for plant¬ 
ing in clumps in the mixed border. Its value and its 
beauty need no further mention here, as it certainly 
enjoys as much of the popular favour as any of the 
Narcissi. N. jonquilla must by no means be for¬ 
gotten. Both its single and double forms have for 
long been favourites with the flower-loving public, 
not only for the graceful symmetry of its blooms but 
also for its delicious fragrance. These also are more 
suitable for growing in clumps in the herbaceous 
border than for the filling of beds specially set apart 
for their accommodation. 
All the varieties that have been mentioned may be 
obtained at a fairly cheap rate from those of our 
nurserymen who make bulbs a specialty, and if the 
pocket of the amateur cultivator will permit his 
ambition to soar beyond the list given here a peep 
into a catalogue such as that issued by Messrs. Barr 
& Son, of Covent Garden, will furnish all that is 
required. Others, again, whose operations are 
restricted by the question of the inevitable £ s. d., 
and who are not able to go the length of ordering 
quantities of the more expensive varieties, cannot do 
better than send for a collection of mixed varieties, 
which can be obtained at very little cost. 
Hyacinths.— A small bed or two filled with 
Hyacinths may well be introduced into the garden. 
Of course, it is not necessary to procure such high- 
priced bulbs as those used for forcing purposes. 
Smaller bulbs may be obtained at a much cheaper 
rate that will flower well and freely. About nine 
inches each way should be allowed between the 
bulbs, three inches being quite sufficient depth at 
which to plant them. If the soil is at all wet and 
clammy a little sand should be placed in the bottom 
of the hole for the base of the bulb to rest upon. A 
bed filled with mixed varieties looks exceedingly 
effective, the great point being, however, to select 
the sorts that flower at the same time ; for if this is 
not done the effect is not nearly so striking as when 
all are in flower together, although the flowering 
season may be considerably prolonged Another 
excellent plan is to utilise only a few varieties, plant¬ 
ing these in rows of one sort. A round bed filled 
with Hyacinths planted in concentric circles, three 
or four distinct colours being employed, looks 
exceedingly well; still for small circular beds 
nothing beats the method of planting with one 
variety only. No matter how carefully the three or 
four varieties in a mixed bed may be selected with 
regard to their period of flowering it is a very great 
chance if they are strictly up to time, whereas if 
bulbs of uniform size of one sort are planted, there 
will be but little fear as to their blooming at the same 
time. The following are a few of the sorts which 
will be found suitable for bedding purposes. 
Singles. —Alba superbissima, Queen Victoria, 
Madame Van Der Hoop, and Mont Cenis, whites ; 
Baron Von Tuyll, Charles Dickens, and Bleu 
Mourant, blues; Norma, Amy, Belle Quirine, 
Gigantea, and La Reine des Jacinthes, reds ; and La 
Pluie D'or, Peabody, King of the Yellows, and 
MacMahon, yellows. 
Doubles.— These are not nearly so nice as the 
single-flowered varieties, inasmuch as they are 
much stiffer and less graceful. Anna Maria, Jenny 
Lind, and La Virginitie, whites ; Bouquet Tendre, and 
Grootvoorst, reds; and Bloksberg, Garrick, and 
General Antinck, blues ; are well worthy a trial, how¬ 
ever. 
In purchasing the bulbs only sound well-ripened 
material should be accepted. A good bulb should be 
rather solid and heavy in proportion to its size, and, 
if of good depth, measuring from base to apex, so 
much the better ; for if it possesses such an appear¬ 
ance it may be confidently expected to produce a 
good heavy truss of flower in its season.— Rex. 
■--I* 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. 
Pot Hyacinths.—About the middle of September 
Ilex had a consignment of Hyacinths sent him, and 
as he is not much of a gardener himself, he got a 
friend to pot them up for him. They were covered 
with ashes in the usual way, and have remained 
covered ever since, now about six weeks ago He 
wishes to know whether they must be allowed to re¬ 
main like this for very much longer, and asks for 
particulars as to how he shall treat them afterwards. 
It is now quite time that these bulbs should be 
brought to the light, as they should have by this 
time made plenty of roots. The young leaves will 
also be pushing away from the top, and they are 
liable to receive injury if left too long. They must 
therefore be taken out carefully, and placed in a cold 
frame, from which frost can be excluded. They 
should be inured to the light gradually, and the 
young colourless leaves will soon begin to assume 
their normal green, when they may be given all the 
light possible. They should be kept cool until they 
are needed for forcing purposes, when they may be 
moved into heat a few at a time. 
Salvia unhealthy.— Proteus has a Salvia which, up 
to within a fortnight ago, was in the best of health, 
and growing away grandly, but of late it appears to 
have gone wrong in some way, for the bottom leaves 
have all dropped, leaving the stems looking terribly 
bare and miserable. The plant is growing in a rather 
small pot—a six inch. 
As a rule Salvias are very strong rootiDg plants, 
and they require not only plenty of pot room but 
also plenty of water ; and of course it follows that 
the more confined the root space the more water will 
be necessary to keep things square. From the des¬ 
cription Proteus gives of his plant it is more than 
likely that want of sufficient water is the cause of all 
the trouble, as this is sure to cause the leaves to 
drop in the manner stated. Plenty of water and 
occasional doses of liquid manure are necessary to 
keep Salvias in robust health and to enable them 
to bloom well. 
Fern dying.— V. T. is possessed of a pot filled with 
Onychium japonicum which was given to him in the 
spring by a friend. When he had it first, it carried 
an abundance of bright green, prettily cut fronds, 
and all the summer it has done well in an ordinary 
greenhouse. Three weeks ago the fronds started to 
turn shabby, and they have since all dropped off. 
Accordingly V. T. writes to ask if it is usual for this 
Fern to behave in this manner. 
Yes, it is, for the fronds of the Fern in question 
are deciduous, and always go off each autumn. If 
the rhizomes are perfectly sound there is nothing 
whatever to fear. Water, of course, must be withheld 
entirely until growth starts again in the spring. 
The pot may be stowed away beneath the greenhouse 
stage, or anywhere out of the way, where it is not 
too hot and dry. 
Long Chrysanthemums.—A wail of despair comes 
from Troubled, who has a Chrysanthemum in a pot 
which seems to have made a contract to grow by the 
yard, but which shows no sign whatever of a flower 
bud. In fact, it looks as if the plant meant to grow 
indefinitely. It was expected to produce a large 
bloom, and with that end in view it has not been 
pinched or stopped at all, and Troubled would like to 
know when it is going to cease elongating. 
Have patience Troubled ; perhaps the plant is one 
of a sort which has a naturally tall habit, as, for 
instance, Madame C. Audiguier, in which case the 
flower will show itself once the maximum of growth 
is reached. Another probable reason for your plant 
reaching such a height is that the crown bud has 
not been taken at the right time, and thus the shoots 
which surround it have started into growth. Even in 
this case your care will be rewarded, for by-and-bye 
your terminal bud will appear, and will, it is hoped, 
give satisfaction. Meanwhile, keep all the laterals 
pinched out, and feed your plant pretty liberally 
with manure water. 
Peach Tree in a Vinery.— G. Fulton writes us to the 
effect that he has a back wall in a vinery which he 
wishes to utilise, and writes to know whether a 
Peach or a Nectarine would be suitable for planting 
against it. 
We should not at all advise planting either a Peach 
or a Nectarine in such a position; for, in the first 
place, the vines would need a much higher tempera¬ 
ture than would suit the Peaches, and, secondly, the 
shade cast by the vines when in full leaf would be 
very injurious. If it is desired to cover the wall in 
question with a fruit tree or trees of some kind, why 
not plant a Fig ? This,will do well in the same tem¬ 
perature as the vines, and the shade cast upon it by 
the latter will not do it very much harm. Should 
G. Fulton elect to try a Fig, we shall be happy to 
assist him with further information as to the best 
method of procedure. 
Lilium nepalense.—T. B. writes to ask for some 
information regarding the beautiful Lilium nepalense. 
In visiting a friend the other day, he was shown a 
small plant of it, bearing a single flower, which 
made a great impression upon him. The friend in 
question told him at the time that it was somewhat 
of a rarity, and he wishes to know if this is correct, 
also where it may be obtained. 
It is true that L. nepalense is not nearly so often 
met with as its merits entitle it to; probably the 
price set upon it is somewhat prohibitive to anyone 
whose pockets are not well lined with the needful. 
It hails from the temperate regions of the Western 
and Central Himalayas, where it is found at altitudes 
of from 7,000 to 9,000 feet above the level of the 
sea. 1855 appears to be the most probable date of 
its introduction into England. If T. B. does not 
mind paying the price asked for it, he may apply to 
any of our great bulb merchants, Messrs. Wallace & 
Co., of Colchester, being the most likely to have it 
in stock. 
The National Chrysanthemum Society's Catalogue.— 
Centenary Edition. Containing 1,000 new varieties. All the 
novelties. A historv and complete bibliography of the Chrysan¬ 
themum by Mr. C. Harman Payne. Price, is.; post free, 
is. ijd. Publisher, Gardening World, i, Clement's Inn 
Strand, London, W,C. 
