November 80, 18^5. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
207 
Bonnie Dundee is an incurved bloom of very neat 
build, medium size, and rich bronzy-orange hue. It 
will doubtless be heard more of next year. Mr. R. 
Owen. 
Surpasse Amiral is a large, somewhat loosely 
built Japanese variety, bright yellow in colour. M. 
Calvat, Grenoble, France. 
Hermon Klosse. — Here we have a huge 
Japanese flower of great width and depth, the outer 
florets being long and drooping. In colour it is a 
deep bronzy-orange, very rich and striking. Mr. 
Norman Davis, Camberwell. 
Kate Williams.— This is a single yellow variety 
with long, twisted florets. It should prove a first- 
class decorative plant. Mr. H. J. Jones, Ryecroft 
Nursery, Lewisham. 
Pakthenia is a Jap. with much reflexed florets. 
It is a pale flesh-pink in hue and very neatly and 
compactly built. Mr. H. J. Jones. 
--- 
THE ORCHID HOUSES. 
White Laelia anceps- There is, and I suppose 
always will be, differences of opinion as to the best 
time to re-pot this somewhat shy-flowering Laelia. 
We have these last few seasons advocated the re¬ 
potting of those that are not carrying spikes in the 
autumn, for, unlike the dark varieties, the roots are 
at that period most active. In looking over ours 
to-day I noticed that new roots were pushing from the 
base of the newly-made-up growths in great 
quantity, and as the compost in which they have 
been growing all the year is in a more or less sour 
condition through the constant watering, it becomes 
obvious that a fresh supply should be afforded, so 
that the new roots will take hold of it readily, and 
thus fit themselves for the trying ordeal of a severe 
winter. It is surprising what a lot of roots they 
make when the compost is kept quite dry, and this 
without the bulbs shrivelling to any great extent. 
Compost. —At this time of the year we use peat 
alone when potting, the whole to be surfaced over 
with live sphagnum in the spring when they start 
into growth. The reason for this is, that owiDg to 
their being kept dry, the moss would, of course, die, 
and would require replacing in the spring with fresh 
material. 
Where the plants have not outgrown the baskets 
or pots they may be profitably top-dressed, if pro¬ 
perly done, always making a point of removing all 
the old compost, and as many of the crocks as con¬ 
venient. If this is not done there are sure to be 
insects, such as woodlice, left lurking behind, ready 
at any moment to make a meal off the new roots 
which it is our object to encourage and protect. 
This is one reason why I am rather against top¬ 
dressing, and only in special cases, which I have 
enumerated in these notes from time to time, do I 
countenance it. 
Odontoglossum crispum. —Spikes on all sides 
are becoming plentiful, and if not looked after will 
soon be eaten up by slugs, which somehow or other 
always become more plentiful with the advent of the 
crispum season. Hanging the plants up out of 
reach is, of course, a good plan, but then where 
a great quantity is grown there must of necessity be 
a limit to this suspending business, or it would take 
up all one’s time to be taking them down to water. 
Again, the slugs are so cunning that they go up the 
roof and let themselves down by a slimy rope on to 
the plants. Thus the poor gardener finds that all his 
manoeuvring has been upset by a modest slug. No, 
depend upon it, the only certain thing is to set traps 
consisting of slices of Apples, lumps of bran, Lettuce 
leaves and the like. Then with your lamp go care¬ 
fully through the houses the last thing at night, 
when you will most likely be rewarded.— C. 
-•*—.- 
THE PUNT HOUSES. 
The Stove. 
The weather during the last week or two has been so 
mild, and the temperature so conspicuously above 
the average, that we find it hard to believe that we 
shall soon be shaking hands with December. We 
have been fairly lucky also in the matter of fogs, the 
worst of all enemies with which the gardener has to 
contend, in metropolitau districts at all events. 
Stove subjects seem to fall an especially ready prey 
to the grimy monster. Foliage plants of all kinds 
lose their leaves wholesale under its malign influence 
and have to pass through the rest of the winter hope¬ 
less cripples. 
Winter Flowering Begonias.— These, without 
doubt are some of the prettiest plants we have, and a 
number, say of such varieties as Gloire de Sceaux, 
wonderfully assist in brightening the appearance of 
the stove at a season when it may be said to be at its 
dullest. But Begonias, more’s the pity, are almost 
annihilated by fogs, and thus their culture is rot 
nearly so extensively practised as it otherwise would 
be. A great deal of care must likewise be exercised 
with the water pot in dealing with them, for they are 
very tender-rooted, and anything like a sour, sodden 
soil is extremely prejudicial to their welfare. 
Berried Plants are likewise a great attraction 
now. Of these Ardisia crenulata is perhaps the 
most useful. The worst point about it is that it 
usually affords a refuge for all the insects that attack 
stove plants. Scale especially is very fond of it, like¬ 
wise mealy bug, and if the plants are not frequently 
looked over and cleaned their decorative value will 
be heavily discounted. Although they cannot be 
said to boast of such a noble appearance as the 
Ardisias the Rivinas are both pretty and useful 
at this time of year. A few well-berried plants in 
small forty-eight pots are always of value, and as they 
can easily and quickly be raised from seed they can 
be obtained with very little trouble. 
Billbergias, Tillandsias and other Bromelia- 
ceous plants will need to have a sharp eye kept upon 
them now ; for if water is allowed to collect in the 
crowns, as it is almost sure to do at this season of 
the year, mischief is bound to follow. The plants 
should, therefore, be examined every day and any 
water that may be present shaken out. 
Eucharis.— These ought now to be throwing up 
their flower scapes. A little assistance with liquid 
manure will therefore be of service. Soot water un¬ 
doubtedly suits them as well as anything, although 
a change of diet may be given with advantage. 
Clay's Fertilizer and Thomson’s are both excellent 
specifics,and if carefully used are invaluable. Mealy 
bug is very partial to Eucharis, although it may 
easily be kept under by an occasional sponging. 
Thrips, however, are far more serious, as they not 
only do infinitely more damage, but they are also 
much more difficult pests to deal with. Tobacco- 
water, or a solution of nicotine soap, will be found 
as efficacious as anything in their destruction. 
The temperature in the warm stove may now be 
suffered to decline to 62° Fahr. by night and to 58° in 
the intermediate house. 
Greenhouse and Cool Conservatory. 
Chrysanthemums are now for the most part 
decidedly past their best, and not for much longer 
shall we be able to keep their bright faces with us. 
As they go out of flower, or are despoiled of their 
blooms for the filling of vases, table decoration, etc., 
the plants should be cut down to within two or three 
inches of the ground and removed to a vinery, cold 
frame, or other structure that is kept perfectly cool 
until the necessary stock of cuttings has been 
obtained. Of course, they will not require a great 
deal of water now, but they should be looked over 
about every other day. 
After the exodus of the greater part of the Chry¬ 
santhemums from the conservatory, it may become 
a matter of some difficulty to fill their place. If 
necessary the forwardest of the Camellias and larger 
Azaleas may be brought in. As the former are now 
swelling their buds rapidly the sponging of the 
leaves must be seen to without delay, as if left for 
too long it can only be carried out at great risk to the 
flower buds. A little soft soap, dissolved in tepid 
soft water, makes a cheap, and at the same time an 
effectual washing solution. 
Salvias must be looked after for staking, especially 
the larger growing kinds, as their growth is apt to be 
very top-heavy. They may now be fed pretty 
liberally with artificial manure. YVe have tried 
Ichthemic Guano with the best of results. 
Winter-flowering Carnations. — Although 
these are generally considered as greenhouse 
plants, they require rather a higher temperature to 
enable them to develop their blooms than that of the 
ordinary greenhouse. It is better, therefore, to have 
a smaller house where the temperature can be kept 
up to about 55 0 Fahr. by night, Plenty of light is 
absolutely essential to the welfare of the plants, and 
great care must be taken not to be too heavy-handed 
in the use of the watering-pot. Air must be given 
pretty freely at top and bottom whenever it is 
practicable to do so. 
Pits and Frames. 
t orcing House.— This will now be full of Lilacs, 
Deutzias, Staphyleas, Roses, etc., that are to be 
forced into bloom. The plants will need but very 
little attention other than the usual syringings. The 
weather has been so mild that fire-heat has been 
almost unnecessary, but we shall likely have a few 
cold nights within the next week or two, when 
artificial heat will be required. T’he thermometer 
here should stand at about 50° Fahr. by night, and 
may rise to 6o° during bright days. 
In the other pits that are kept at a greenhouse 
temperature, Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Francoas, and 
Primulas should all be making progress. Hybrid 
Pelargoniums will by this time have made nice heads 
of verdure, and will need an occasional thinning out 
as increased growth calls for more space. The 
Pelargoniums should not be unduly excited with 
artificial manures. The nutriment contained in the 
soil in which they are potted will be quite sufficient 
for them for a time. It is not at all wise to hurry 
the plants on, as the growth that results is sure to be 
weak and spindly. Should green fly make an 
appearance it must be checked by several light 
fumigations given on consecutive evenings. 
Zonal Pelargoniums.— A succession batch of 
these will now be just commencing to open their 
trusses, and will be ready in a few days to take the 
places of the early batch which has done duty in the 
conservatory since the commencement of October. 
The feeding with artificial manures must still be 
carried on, although when the trusses are well open 
the doses should not be quite so strong, or they will 
shorten the life of the blooms. 
Bedding Plants.— As a rule the pits and frames 
are pretty well choked up with bedding stuff during 
the winter months, Pelargoniums chiefly. These will 
need to be gone over occasionally, dead leaves 
picked off, and portions that have succumbed to the 
damp cut clean out with a pair of sharp secateurs. The 
variegated and highly-coloured varieties are always 
the most delicate, and there are usually some deaths 
among them. If possible, they should be given a 
rather warmer position than the other zonals—say on 
a shelf near the glass in an intermediate house. 
Verbena Cuttings are also somewhat difficult 
to keep through the winter, as they are so liable to 
be attacked with mildew, especially if they are 
placed in cold, draughty positions. They also should 
be kept rather warmer than is usual with the generality 
of beddiDg plants. Green fly will sometimes make its 
appearance, in which case affected plants may be 
stood for awhile in a house that is being fumigated, 
although they must not be left in for too long, as the 
tips of the shoots are very tender and liable to injury 
if the smoke is too thick or strong. 
Roman Hyacinths, as they come into bloom, must 
be neatly staked, using as thin stakes as possible so 
as not to make the supports too evident, and removed 
to the conservatory. It is not wise to leave the 
plants in much heat after the flowers have expanded 
as it renders them so fugitive. The same may be 
said of Lily of the Valley. 
Border Carnations will need all the air that it is 
possible to give them, and the lights should therefore 
be left open until the outside thermometer falls 
below freezing point. The plants are hardy enough 
as regards cold, although a few mats should be 
thrown over the frames during spells of severe frost. 
Damp, however, is their great enemy, for if they g< i 
too much water they are almost sure to rot off at the 
collars. At this time of the year they rarely require 
to be given any water, especially if the pots are 
plunged to the rims in ashes. 
Cold Frames must now be covered up regularly 
each night, either with tiffany, Russian mats, or 
tarpaulin. Whatever covering is used, however, is 
fifty per cent, more effective in excluding frost when 
it is thoroughly dry than when it is sodden with wet. 
A shed or outhouse where these coverings may be 
hung up to dry will therefore be very useful. It is 
also advisable to have a number of long strips of 
wood of fair weight wherewith to secure the mats 
upon the frames, or a slight puff of wind will 
disarrange the coverings, and in the event of frost 
coming in the early hours of the morning mischief is 
done.— A1 S. G, 
