736 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
July 18,1896. 
Chrysanthemums. —As these have now reached a 
good size, and will consequently be taking up a good 
deal of space, and needing a lot of attention, it may 
be as well if we look very briefly at what should be 
done, as well as what should not be done, to assist 
them. We will not attempt to go through all the 
details of the cultural programme—that must be left 
until a more favourable moment—but we may well 
take note of a few seasonable attentions that must be 
given, if the cultivator’s name is to appear in the list 
of prize winners during the ensuing autumn at the 
local show. 
Crowding — This is one of the chief things that we 
would warn an amateur from doing. It is very true 
that the temptation to attempt to grow more plants 
than there is really room for, is so very strong, that 
it is small wonder that the mistake is made. Per¬ 
haps we see some novelty sweep all before it at a 
show, and we feel constrained to add it to our list. 
Now this would be all very well if one of the older 
and inferior varieties were shelved to make room for 
it, but it is a very difficult matter to turn out old 
friends. Florists in weeding out inferior forms 
from their collections of various subjects, tell us that 
it is the hardest thing in the world to give a good 
weeding out, and yet this has to be done all round if 
a collection, no matter whether of Chrysanthemums, 
Roses, Tulips, etc., is to be kept up to date, and 
within due limits. 
We would strongly impress upon our readers, 
therefore, that to attempt to do too much is to risk 
losing all. 
Light and air.—What magic is contained in these 
two words ! In them lies the secret of a great deal 
of the success that should attend the culture of the 
Autumn Queen. FTom the present time right up to 
the season when frosts render further stay out of 
doors dangerous plenty of light and plenty of air is a 
sine qua non to the production of short-jointed, sound, 
and well-ripened wood, and we all know that the 
latter must be forthcoming if the blooms are to be 
up to show standard. Take care, therefore, not to 
stand the plants too closely together, and above all, 
see that they are not thickly over-shadowed by 
trees. 
Plunging".—At one time the idea that Chrysanthe¬ 
mums could not be grown properly except the pots 
were plunged to the rims was very widespread. 
Since then it has been proved that there is less 
importance to be attached to this operation than was 
at first supposed. If the necessary conveniences are 
to hand, then plunge your plants by all means, as it 
will have the effect of lessening the evaporation of 
water from the soil, and hence in a like degree the 
labour of watering. Ashes form the very best 
plunging material—those from coke fires for pre¬ 
ference, as worms do not like crawling about among 
them. 
This brings us to a most important point, viz , the 
exclusion of worms from the soil. It often happens 
that the pots are stood upon ordinary garden soil, 
which, of course, contains a quantity of worms. 
These, after a while, proceed to shift their quarters 
to the insides of the pots, to the grower's no small 
disgust, and to the detriment of the plants. As the 
worms usually enter through the hole in the bottom 
of the pot, they may be kept out by standing the 
plants upon boards laid down for the purpose, instead 
of upon the naked soil. 
Watering.—What a lot of water these Chrysan¬ 
themums take ! is a remark that is sure to fall from 
the lips of all cultivators not once nor twice during 
the season, especially when king Sol makes his 
presence felt so unmistakably as he has done this 
season. Healthy, growing plants are sure to dry up 
quickly, and the amateur should take courage from 
the fact. The best time to water the plants is to¬ 
wards evening, when the hottest part of the day is 
over. A good soaking should always be given then. 
It will be advisable also to look the plants over about 
eleven o'clock in the morning, and again about three 
in the afternoon, watering such plants as require it. 
The watering-pot should be held down close to the 
rims of the pots in which the plants are growing, 
for two reasons, first, to avoid wetting the foliage, 
which would burn during hot days, and secondly to 
avoid rinsing the soil into holes. 
Syringing.—As long as the hot weather lasts, the 
plants should be given a thoroughly good syringing 
each evening after the heat of the day is over. If a 
syringe is not among the amateur’s stock-in-trade, a 
very good make-shift may be made by sprinkling 
overhead with a rose-can. When the plants get 
very tall, this dodge, however, will not act, for 
obvious reasons, but for the present it will suffice. 
Staking.—Support must be given as soon as the 
growths get long enough to be in danger of injury 
from winds and storms of rain. Bamboos make the 
best stakes, although neatly cut hazel sticks, which 
have been dried to give them the requisite rigidity, 
answer the purpose admirably. Do not insert the 
stakes in the soil close to the stems of the plants, or 
the main roots will be in great danger of sustaining 
serious injury' 
The question of manures is one that calls for a 
deal of careful thought, and as it is deserving of 
special consideration we will leave it until the next 
issue. 
Carnations.—Now that the time for layering is 
once more with us it may be of service to some 
beginners in the culture of the Carnation if we 
briefly go over the main facts of the case, and give 
the modus opeiandi of layering. Here is very little to 
perplex or intimidate the veriest tyro amongst 
amateur gardeners, and if such a one will but follow 
the directions here laid down he need have but few 
misgivings as to the ultimate results. 
As soon as the first flush of bloom is over it is 
time to make preparations for procuring a stock of 
plants for next year. A quantity of fine sandy soil, 
and plenty of wooden pegs should be got in readiness 
prior to commencing operations. These pegs should 
be on an average from 3 in. to 4 in. in length, and 
have a hook at least 1 in. long. If the would-be 
layerer lives in the country an hour or so’s labour 
amongst his neighbours hedges will give him a 
sufficient stock of material to work with. If the 
pegs can not be obtained in this way an old birch 
broom will usually furnish a fair quantity, 
Soil is the next consideration. Any fairly light 
soil will do. This should either be chopped up 
finely, or sifted—the latter for preference. Plenty of 
river sand or road scrapings should be added in 
order to give porosity. The compost should be 
spread around the collars of the plants to a depth of 
about 2 in. This will be quite sufficient for all 
ordinary purposes. In cases where the shoots are 
produced rather high up the stem, and it is difficult 
to get them down, the soil may be heaped up rather 
higher, but in the majority of instances sufficient 
shoots are produced near the ground that may be 
brought down easily to the ordinary level, so that the 
higher ones need not be troubled about, excepting, 
of course, it is a very choice variety that is being 
operated on, when every layer that can be obtained 
is of value. 
The preliminaries attended to, we now come to 
the consideration of the act of layering proper. The 
shoots that are to be layered should first of all be 
denuded of a few of the lower leaves, as these will 
serve no purpose if left, and will only be an 
impediment. 
A sharp knife with which to make the tongues is 
an absolute necessity. In addition to possesing a 
keen edge it should also be rather thin in the blade. 
In making the slit or tongue, operations should be 
commenced just below the tuft of leaves borne by 
the young wood, just where the stem is turning 
brown with age, and commencing to harden. Hold¬ 
ing the layer in the left hand and bending it slightly 
inwards, and with the knife in the right hand a 
transverse cut must first be made just below a joint 
or node of^the stem. This cut will reach the centre 
of the stem, so that when the edge of the knife is 
turned, and the cut continued upwards for about 
1 in., and right through the node, a tongue of about 
half the thickness of the stem will result. The shoot 
may then be bent downwards, and the tongue, which 
must be carefully kept from closing, inserted in the 
soil. A peg pushed in the soil close to the incision 
will then securely fasten the layer to the ground. 
The soil should next be carefully placed over 
the stem joining the layer to the parent plaDt, and 
the tongue, so that both are nicely covered. 
Watering.—A good watering should be given the 
layers after the sun has gone off them, and this 
attention must be continued at intervals should the 
weather prove hot and dry. A rose-can should be 
used, as the sprinkling overhead will keep the foliage 
clean and healthy, and moreover, washing of the 
soil will be prevented. 
If everything goes on well the layers will have 
formed well rooted plants by the autumn, when they 
may be lifted, potted off, and subsequently consigned 
to cold frames to pass the winter, or planted out in 
their permanent flowering quarters, according to 
whether spring or autumn planting is favoured.— 
Rex. 
--S*- 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page ” on the top of their letters. 
Yictoria regia.—When growing in its native 
waters of the Amazon, J. Canrobert, this gigantic 
Water Lily is a perennial, but under cultivation in 
this country it yields the best results when treated 
as an annual, as it is difficult to keep the plants 
alive during our dull sunless winters. In gardens 
where it is grown, such as Kew, plants are raised 
from seed every year. The seed is sown in January, 
and the seed pots plunged in a tank of warm water 
having a temperature of from 85° to go? Fahr. The 
seedlings are potted on as they require it, and if all 
goes well, are ready for transference to their flower¬ 
ing quarters about the beginning of May. 
Pelargoniums.—You may easily tell when your 
Pelargoniums are in a fit state for cutting back. 
Amateur, by the colour of the wood, which should be 
a nice light brown except towards the top of the 
shoots. It should also feel firm and hard when given 
a slight pressure between thumb and finger. The 
plants may be allowed to get quite dry for a few days 
before they are pruned. In pruning you should cut 
back to within two or three eyes of the old wood. 
Ophiopogon Jaburan variegatus is the name of 
the plant you enquire about B. B. It is a clumsy 
name perhaps, but certainly a very pretty plant. It 
will do well in your greenhouse. 
Lifting Narcissi.—I have several clumps of 
Narcissi growing in a mixed border, and I should 
like to shift them to another place. Please tell me if 
I may safely lift them now, or would it be best to 
let them be until later ?— Merci. 
If the foliage has died down you should lift the 
bulbs at once, the sooner the better, in fact, when 
they have arrived at this stage. They soon start to 
make fresh roots, in some cases even before the old 
ones have completely died away, and thus it is 
necessary to catch them at a time when lifting can 
be performed with the greatest ease and safety. 
Coleuses flowering.—Pinch the flowers out of 
your Coleuses as soon as they are large enough to 
catch hold of with the finger and thumb, B. C. You 
will thus save a good deal of the energy of your 
plants that would otherwise be wasted. 
Lilium croceum is the beautiful orange-yellow 
Lily that is such a favourite in cottage gardens, 
R. Symes. It is fairly distinct on account of the 
erect flowers. It is a native of Southern Europe, 
but has long been an honoured occupant of our 
gardens. 
Tomatos going off.—I grow a large quantity of 
Tomatos, both under glass and in the open ground, 
and like IF. E. H. I have been occassionally puzzled 
to account for deaths which have occurred without 
any appparent reason. After careful consideration, 
however, I have been led to the conclusion that it is 
caused by the individual constitution of some plants 
being much weaker than that of others. Such weak¬ 
lings are unable to stand the strong doses of manures, 
chemical or otherwise, that are meted out to all the 
plants strong and weak alike, and the result is that 
the stimulants act very nearly like poison, and 
finally cause them to succumb. By exercising a 
little discretion in the application of manures, deaths 
of this kind will be much less frequent. I trust 
these remarks may be of service. —J. E. M. 
[It is very probable that our correspondent has hit 
upon the true cause of collapses of the kind under 
notice.— Ed.] . 
Cyclamen.—It is much the best plan to sow seed 
every year, in November or January, for fane strong 
