368 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
February 8, 1896. 
HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 
Pruning. 
The Pear. —Although it is questionable whether the 
Pear will ever be as popular with the masses as its 
close relation, the Apple, it is very certain that in 
most quarters it is cultivated with the greatest of 
enthusiasm. The comparative shortness of the 
season during which it may be had in good condition 
doubtless militates very considerably against it. 
True it is, we have late varieties that come in during 
the early months of the year, but their flavour is not to 
be compared with those that are ready for the table 
during October and November. Still, a few trees are 
usually grown in all gardens where the space can be 
found. 
Standards. —Although, perhaps, the most old- 
fashioned and time-honoured method of training, it 
is comparatively seldom that we see this kind of tree 
planted now. It is suitable enough, however, 
for situations where room is not such an important 
object as it is in villa and cottage gardens. Some¬ 
times the trees we meet with are fruitful, as 
they should be if properly attended to, but more 
often they are choked up with vast numbers of sucker¬ 
like growths, and bear nothing but leaves. This is 
often brought about in the following way :—When 
the tree arrives at full bearing state, the weight of 
the crop will cause the branches to droop downward 
to a greater or less degree. Even when relieved of 
their burden in the autumn, these branches do not 
return to their original position. This drooping habit 
is very favourable to the formation of fruit buds, and 
hence it will be observed that old trees usually carry 
their fruit at or near the ends of the branches. A 
number of strong young shoots are produced in the 
centre of the tree, and these, growing erect, carry off 
and appropriate a large proportion of the sap, thus 
robbing the fruit buds of their necessary nourish¬ 
ment, and finally, if allowed to remain unchecked, 
turning a fruitful into a barren tree. Such shoots as 
these must be cut clean out therefore, so as to induce 
equal distribution of the sap over all parts of the 
tree. Branches which are crossing each other must 
also be cut out, together with any dead snags or 
boughs that are observed to be present. When 
branches of any size are severed, the wounds must 
be anointed with tar as was advised in dealing with 
standard Apples last week. 
The Pyramidal Tree is one that is in high favour 
everywhere, as it is so easily managed and is withal 
so fruitful when properly attended to. For small 
gardens the dwarf pyramid recommends itself as 
being the most suitable to plant, for excellent fruit cm 
be obtained from trees comparatively only a few feet 
in height. From the straight central axis proceed 
numbers of horizontal branches, each of these being 
manipulated so that it is a little shorter than the one 
immediately below it. By this method we get a 
regular conical outline, which in this particular 
instance is very closely associated with fruitfulness. 
It is very necessary that the upper branches should 
be kept shorter than the lower ones, for if they were 
all permitted to grow to an equal length, and the tree 
thus allowed to assume the shape of a cylinder, 
the upper branches would become much more 
vigorous than the lower, the balance would thus be 
disturbed, and the fruiting qualities seriously affected. 
The winter pruning is really of secondary importance 
to the summer pruning, or, to give it its common 
name, pinching. If the laterals were suffered to grow 
on at their own sweet will all the summer, and only 
cut back in the winter, we should find that a number 
of twiggy barren growths would start away from 
their bases. By judicious pinching in summer, the 
formation of fruit buds instead of wood buds is 
favoured. The terminal shoots of the branches 
which were left untouched during the summer may 
now be shortened back with a view to preserving the 
symmetrical outline of the tree. Jagged or broken 
spurs should also be neatly cut over. 
Wall Trees. —The Pear is an excellent subject 
for planting against walls ; indeed, some of the finest 
fruit is obtained from trees trained in this way. 
There are several forms suitable, each of which 
possesses its special advantages. 
Cordons.— Several kinds of these are obtainable. 
The vertical cordon is, however, the most frequently 
met with. One or more main branches are taken up 
from a common stem, and trained vertically. These 
are especially suitable for covering high walls 
quickly, and as they can be procured with any 
number of branches they are very handy for dropping 
in odd vacant spaces. The oblique cordons, on the 
other hand, are more suitable for planting on walls 
of medium height. They are usually either single or 
double— i.e., with one main branch or with two. 
These "branches are trained so as to describe an 
angle of about 45° with the ground. If desired the 
angle need not be made quite so acute, say about 6o°. 
Whatever style is preferred, the system of pruning is 
very much the same—viz., the pinching in of laterals 
during the summer so as to favour the formation of 
fruit buds, and the shortening back of the leaders in 
the winter. It is necessary to point out, however, 
that the leading shoots of the vertical cordons often 
show a tendency to vigorous growth, the result of 
this being that the sap is drawn past the lower spurs, 
and fruit buds are few and far between upon them. 
Great care must be taken therefore to stop these 
leaders in time, so that the desired results—viz., an 
equal distribution of fruit-bearing spurs over the 
whole length of the tree—may be forthcoming. 
Horizontal-trained Trees. —We noted, in con¬ 
nection with the Apple last week, that this style of 
tree was the best for low walls. So also with the 
Pear, this system has much to recommend it where 
wall space is of the limited order of things, at least 
with regard to height. The directions already given 
with regard to the way the Knife should be wielded 
in dealing with horizontal-trained Apples will also 
apply here with equal force. The summer dressing 
is the one that needs the exercise of care and skill on 
the part of the operator. 
Espaliers. —These look exceedingly well when 
grown along a couple of feet or so from the edges of 
walks. Providing substantial support is given them 
they look very neat and trim, and what is, perhaps, 
rather more to the purpose produce some splendid 
fruit. The lateral shoots that were pinched below 
the sixth leaf last summer will now need to be spurred 
back to within an inch of their base. About six inches 
of space between the spurs will be quite sufficient. 
The leaders must be cut back according to their 
strength and the space at disposal.— Rex. 
-—- 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
A nyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions that have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
“ Amateurs' Page ” on the top of their letters. 
Replies.—It is quite true, R. Y.,that the usual method 
of propagating bedding Lobelias adopted by those 
who are very particular with regard to the strain, is 
to put in cuttings. As you have lost all your stock 
plants this winter through the damp, you must use 
some other means to get a supply. Seed sowing is a 
fairly reliable plan. The great thing is to purchase 
seed from a trustworthy source, otherwise at bedding 
out time you may find you have got at least the 
charm of variety attached to your plants. The end 
of February or the beginning of March will be quite 
soon enough to think of sowing. In a house possess¬ 
ing a temperature of not less than 6o° the seed 
germinates very readily if not sown too deeply. 
Lobelia cardinalis, and L. Victoriae will also come 
pretty true from seed. A sowing made at the same 
time as recommended for the ordinary bedding ones, 
T. Ryan, will give you plants fit for putting out at the 
end of May or the beginning of June. Afterwards 
you may work up a stock by division of the old roots 
in spring. 
Amateur is worrying himself that some Heliotropes 
obtained from cuttings struck last autumn are looking 
seedy, and he is afraid will never be strong enough to 
propagate from, this spring, They are placed on a 
shelf in a cool house. This is not the place for them 
if cuttings are wanted. In a warm house or pit they 
soon make headway. The tops may be taken off as 
soon as convenient and the plants kept rather dry at 
the root, until fresh growths are made. The syringe 
may also be passed over them now and again. 
Plenty of cuttings will soon be forthcoming under 
treatment oi this kind. Whilst speaking of syringing 
we may tell B. that it is yet too early in the year to 
practise it regularly in a house filled with ordinary 
stove plants. He should wait at least another 
month. In forcing pits it is an entirely different 
matter, as the moisture resulting from the use of the 
syringe is of great service in promoting rapid 
growth. 
Daphne Mezereum may certainly be grown in pots 
for standing in the conservatory, Greenlaw, but take 
care not to subject it to too much forcing, otherwise 
most of the buds will drop, and you will have a 
beautiful arrangement of bare branches to look at. 
In an ordinary greenhouse temperature it begins to 
expand its flowers soon after Christmas, whilst in 
mild winters it begins to bloom very early in the 
spring, when grown out of doors without any pro¬ 
tection whatever. 
Oh yes, F. Arton, your query came to hand in due 
form, but it had to wait its turn, you know, for all 
things are done in order in this establishment. 
Canker in Apple trees is like love of dress in a 
woman, well-nigh incurable. You might try a 
mixture of clay, sulphur, quicklime and petroleum, 
made up into a paste and spread over the affected 
parts. A great deal can be done, however, by cutting 
out branches that are touched by the plague and 
burning them in order to prevent its spread to other 
parts. Where such Apples as Ribston Pippin 
exhibit a great tendency to go off in this way, as they 
are almost certain to do where the soil is largely 
composed of clay, the trees should be pulled out root 
and branch, and other less susceptible varieties 
planted. In thus speaking of Ribston Pippin we 
hope that C. 0. will consider his question answered, 
as to whether we would advise him to plant it in 
such a position. 
M. Carlisle has been puzzled to know how it is that 
some people are able to keep Apples so far into the 
spring in such excellent condition, whilst with him 
the same varieties do not behave nearly so well. 
The great secret lies in having a properly- 
constructed fruit room, which can be kept at an 
equable temperature through the winter of about 42 0 
Fahr. If straw or hay is used to lay the fruit on, it 
must be scrupulously clean and perfectly dry, other¬ 
wise it will impart a musty and unpleasant smell to 
anything coming in contact with it. The house must 
be carefully ventilated on favourable occasions to 
carry off injurious exhalations. If any speck of rot 
puts in an appearance the affected fruit is straight¬ 
way removed before the spores of the fungus causing 
it have time to mature and scatter themselves over 
the rest Try this system, M., and prosper. 
You ask, L’amie, if it will hurt Magnolia grandiflora 
to keep it closely covered up all the winter. In reply 
we might ask how you would like to be covered up 
for a few months and all the light excluded from you ? 
In mild weather coverings should be always un¬ 
rolled, whenever this is practicable, for long-con¬ 
tinued and enforced seclusion is harmful to plants as 
well as to animals. 
Seakale from seed.—As a result of my personal 
experience I can tell Tomato (p. 304) that I have 
obtained decent crowns fit for forcing from seed sown 
in April. If grown in fairly good soil, 50 per cent, 
of the crowns will give very good results from one 
season's growth—of course not fit for exhibition, but 
serviceable and a very good makeshift .—A . P. 
Apple from Seed.—Can Apple trees be raised from 
pips sown in the usual way.— A. B. 
Certainly they can, but it will scarcely be worth 
3 our while to do so except for the case of experiment 
as varieties rarely come true from seed. You might 
keep your seedling for some time before it con¬ 
descended to bear fruit which after all would as 
likely as not be scarce worth the eating. Seedling 
trees have usually to be grafted with some good 
variety in order to make sure of them. 
Oranges.—Can Oranges be raised from seed ?— 
A. B. 
The seeds of the Orange germinate very freely 
when sown upon a hot bed. If the production of 
first class dessert fruit is desired these seedlings must 
be used as stocks for grafting or budding upon. 
Varieties of Scolopendrium vulgare.—I herewith 
send you a crested frond of a Scolopendrium vulgare 
which has appeared upon a plant that, up to the time 
of its appearance had exhibited no sign of abnormality 
whatever. Is this a usual thing ?— Amateur. 
Yes, it is. Scolopendrium vulgare is exceedingly 
prone to disport itself in this way, and many of its 
numerous varieties prove constant and are exceedingly 
pretty — undoubted improvements on the type. It is a 
fact, not so generally known as it might be, that if the 
frond exhibiting this peculiarity be cut off and 
inserted as a cutting in cocoanut fibre in a cool pro- 
