500 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
April 4, 1896. 
NOTICES OF BOOKS. 
Conifers at Kew. 
Hand-list of Coniferae grown in the Royal Gardens, 
Kew. London : Sold at the Royal Gardens, Kew. 
Printed for Her Majesty’s Stationery Office, by 
Eyre and Spottiswoode, Printers to the Queen's 
Most Excellent Majesty, 1896. Price 3d. 
Independently of the several official guides to the 
Gardens at Kew, this makes the fifth of the hand-lists 
now in preparation as a guide to the various collec¬ 
tions of plants in their respective divisions and depart¬ 
ments. The hand-list under notice is devoted 
entirely to Conifers, both out of doors and under glass. 
It comprises 227 species, with 340 varieties belonging 
to 37 genera. This is a very large proportion, of 
all the known Coniferae, seeing that the Genera 
Plantation reckons them at 300 species. The exten¬ 
sive character of the collection at Kew is explainable 
from the fact that most of the species belong to 
temperate regions and mountains both north and 
south of the Equator. The value of the hand-list 
would have been greatly increased if it had been 
extended so as to include the whole of the Gymno- 
sperms, by the addition of the Gnetaceae and Cyca- 
daceae which would have increased the size cf the 
book only to a very small extent. 
Sir Joseph Hooker, some years ago, had in con¬ 
templation a catalogue of the Coniferae, and for this 
purpose had prepared a brief review of the literature 
of the subject, and this valuable information is given 
in the preface to the book. Until quite recently 
the nomenclature was in a state of great confusion 
in this country, and unfortunately matters in this 
respect are not much mended amongst cultivators. 
Whether they imagine themselves right or wrong, 
a great many of them persist in using certain names 
for certain species, while others have a different set 
of names for the same planis. Continental 
cultivators have long ago given up placing the Silver 
Firs under Picea, and the Spruces under Abies, while 
in North America, the headquarters of these 
genera as well as of Pinus, such erroneous and mis¬ 
leading nomenclature has never been adopted. The 
correct names, then, in these are Pinus for the Pines, 
Abies for the Silver Firs, and Picea for the Spruces. 
Curiously enough, the English names are-better 
understood and generally recognised in this country 
than the botanical ones. In the case of most other 
plants this condition of things is reversed. 
According to Sir Joseph Hooker’s review, Louis 
Claude Richard (1826), in his Memo ire sur les 
Coni fens, was the first to deal with the Coniferae in 
a scientific manner. Link in 1827 was first, how¬ 
ever, to clearly define the genera, Pinus, Picea, Abies, 
Larix and Cedrus as they are now almost universally 
applied, except by British cultivators. It has been 
the work of various botanists, however, to complete 
the nomenclature in the Abietineae—the most im¬ 
portant to us of the several tribes into which the 
Coniferae are divided. The result of this chaotic 
state of matters in the earlier stages of the science 
of the subject has been to overburden all the leading 
genera and species with a host of synonyms. 
Perhaps Conifers are no worse in this respect than 
many another order or genus of plants we could 
name. 
The classified and named Conifers extend along 
nearly 2,000 yards of path and avenue, repre¬ 
senting double that length, or 2^ miles of made soi^ 
beds, and plantations. There are three to twelve 
specimens of each species, and about 1,200 specimens t 
mostly all correctly named. The barren, sandy soil 
of Kew has been favourable to some species and 
detrimental to others. Pines have done well, but 
Spruces and Silver Firs generally show signs of 
distress after they reach a certain height and age. 
On the contrary, we have ourselves noted the rapid 
growth of Abies brachyphylla, comparatively recently 
introduced from Japan. The most conspicuous Pine 
in the Gardens is a specimen of Pinus Laricio close 
to the main entrance on Kew Green ; it measured 
85 ft. in height in 1880. 
The various tribes,genera, and species are arranged 
on the natural system in the band-list, and those 
who are unfamiliar with classification, can find at a 
glance what is in the list by reference to the excellent 
index. The book runs to 114 pages, and will be of 
great service to those who desire to be abreast of the 
day in matters of correct nomenclature. The genus 
Cupressus includes Cupressus proper, and 
Chamaecyparis as a section of it, while Retinospora 
is synonymous with the latter, and forms part of 
the genus Cupressus. Thuyopsis and Biota are 
included under Thuya 
-- 
SCUTELLARIA MOCCINIANA. 
This is one of the many beautiful plants which, 
owing in part to the introduction of newer things, get 
thrown for a time into the background ; and whilst 
the constant additions to our already long lists of 
plants suitable for decorative purposes continue to 
be made it must inevitably happen that some of the 
old favourites will for a time be neglected by some. 
It seems a pity that this fate should have overtaken 
this very beautiful winter-flowering stove plant, good 
alike for decorative purposes and for furnishing a 
supply of cut flowers. It may, in fact, be had in 
flower at almost any time by keeping up a succession 
of plants. We well remember seeing some years 
back at a Continental exhibition, a group of several 
hundreds of it in 4-in pots, and very beautiful it was. 
Its cultural requirements are of the simplest 
character ; one of the most essential is to keep it free 
from insect pests. Mealy bug is very fond of it, and 
where it exists, a sharp look out must be kept on the 
Scutellarias. It may be going a little out of the way 
to say that there is less excuse for having hot-houses 
infested with it than any other insect ; but we 
maintain, in spite of all the trouble it gives in some 
places, that it is the only insect we have ever 
succeeded in exterminating on a place. A stock of 
young plants should be raised annually. In spring 
they strike readily in a strong, moist heat when 
inserted in a mixture of light, sandy soil. When 
rooted, pot them off singly into 60-size pots, using a 
mixture of good, turfy loam and fibrous peat with 
some sand and charcoal. Keep them in heat and 
shift on as required till June, when they may have 
their final shift into 6-in pots and be placed in a cold 
frame. Shade and keep close for a few days, 
gradually inure to sun and air, and only put on 
shade for a few hours during bright sunshine, keeping 
air on both night and day. Never let them suffer 
from drought; keep stopping till the end of August, 
or later, and in September remove the plants into a 
house with a temperature of 6o°. Liquid manure 
once or twice a week will materially assist them,— 
W. B. G. 
—-— - 
TIMELY REFLECTIONS CONCERNING 
TOMATOS. 
For a main crop there is still time to alter or 
slightly improve any particular plan that has been 
agreed on, and means, as regards whether one should 
use pots or boxes, or plant in a bed; also soil. Most 
growers are just now putttng ’out their plants into 
fruiting quarters. Let no one be afraid of sowing 
any time during this month and a week or two in 
April however, and yet securing a good crop. As 
to what to grow them in, after close observation I 
prefer a 10 in . or 12 in. pot, filling this half full of 
compost at the first set off. Two top-dressings are 
then required to fill up to the top. This should not 
be overdone, however, or the water will not perform 
its duty, but will run over the side. Everybody has 
not pots, w T e know; well, no one need be “fast” 
because of this. Boxes formed of two rows of 
bricks placed on their edges, or beds edged with 
planks, will always yield good results. It is very 
necessary, however, to secure a solid bottom. 
Tomatos are greedy, nothing more or less. Give 
them it and they will eat it. Firm planting or 
pottiDg is therefore of the utmost importance. They 
can hardly be made too solid in a reasonable way. 
This tends to the making of short joints, while the 
reverse means that the plants will run away. A layer 
of soil placed under the pot or other containing 
article used is of great assistance. As to kind of 
soil— if my own brother asked me this question I 
would say, if you have a fairly free working garden 
soil, use it in preference to any made-up mixture. 
Many growers get wrong here, and especially at the 
start. Giving the plants manure of all descriptions 
at this early stage excites and bothers them much as 
whisky does those people who like it. 
In conclusion, I would advise those cultivators who 
desire to keep up with the times not to forget the 
“newcomers.” You may get an improvement on 
your particular favourite. Many readers of The 
Gardening World will remember the correspon¬ 
dence carried on a couple of seasons ago about Duke 
of York. To convince myself and others I have 
obtained a sealed packet of seed of this variety from 
the same firm and shall give it another trial. Talk 
is cheap, we know, but in this case, if it is true, it has 
at present the best record of any Tomato grown, and 
at any rate had a bitter experience as a result of 
my first acquaintance with his royal highness in 
Tomatos. At the proper time I shall inform my 
readers of the result, and shall also invite inspection 
that it may be demonstrated that the plarts have 
had a proper trial against other kinds, and may truth 
win the day.— J . G. Pettinger, Strawberry Dale, Ntfrsery, 
Harrogate. 
■ 1 «- 
EPACRISES. 
Of all our hard-wooded greenhouse plants which 
delight us with their flowers in the dark, dull months 
of mid-winter and early spring, none are more 
beautiful than the Epacrises. Indeed, if they met 
with the welcome that their merits undoubtedly 
entitle them to, they would find a place in every 
greenhouse and cool conservatory. Possibly the 
prevalence of the idea that they take a lot of trouble, 
and the exercise of a deal of skill to grow, militates 
against their more wide-spread popularity, for there 
are very few persons indeed who will fail to admire 
them when they see them in flower. Now it is very 
true that they require a certain amount of attention— 
what plant does not ? and it is also true that they 
will not stand so much knocking about as some other 
subjects that we might mention— the scarlet Pelar¬ 
gonium for instance— but it can be claimed for them 
that they are a good deal easier to grow than the 
Heaths.. Their flowers, too, are very suitable for 
cutting, and last for a long time in good condition 
when placed in water. In this point also they most 
decidedly go one better than the Ericas, whose 
flowers, although they last some'timeffipon the plants, 
soon wither up when taken off them. 
As soon as the flowering season is well over, which 
will be about the beginning of March, the plants 
should be treated with a liberal dose of the pruning 
knife, and the growths that have flowered cut hard 
back. The p'ants may then be put iato a frame or 
pit that possesses a temperature about five degrees 
warmer than that of an ordinary greenhouse, and kept 
close for a week or two in order to stimulate them into 
fresh growth. On bright days a light syringing will 
be of great service, but it must be done either in the 
forenoon or early in the afternoon, so as to allow of the 
plants drying before night sets in. When the y ouDg 
shoots are from a half to three-quarters of an inch in 
length any potting that is thought to be necessary may 
be seen to. The soil may consist of peat to which has 
been added about one-sixth of its bulk of silver sand, 
together with a few nodules of charcoal In knocking 
the plants out of the old pots and transferring them 
to their new ones, the greatest care must be exercised 
in order to prevent the fibrous roots from being 
damaged. Indeed it is not advisable to disturb the 
old ball to any very great extent for that reason ; 
although any of the soil near the top that proves to 
be loose, and can thus be easily removed, may be 
taken away T . Good drainage is of the utmost impor¬ 
tance, and firm potting is essential. In fact, the 
hand-rammer may be plied pretty freely without 
much danger, for, from the great preponderance of 
peat ia the soil, it is of such a springy nature as to 
need a good deal of ramming to give it the necessary 
firmness. 
After potting, the plants should be returned to the 
pit or frame, as the case may be. and carefully 
attended to until they have recovered the slight check 
which the shift will occasion. Some gardeners fall 
into the error of delugiog the pots with water imme¬ 
diately after potting. The more rational mode of 
treatment, however is to refrain from usiDg the water 
pot at all for a few days, but to give gentle syringings 
morning and afternoon, the moisture contained in 
the compost at the time of potting being sufficient 
for a time. The stage of growth represented by the 
few weeks subsequent to the potting is possibly the 
most critical of any. Sufficient coddling must be given 
the plants at first to induce quick and vigorous growth, 
but as they progress, more air must be given, as well 
as plenty of water at the root, until finally, about 
the end of July, the plan's may be put out of doers 
altogether, and freely exposed to the air and sun¬ 
shine in order to mature the long growths made 
under glass, which, unless properly ripened, will not 
flower well. During their sojourn out of doors it is 
as well to plunge the pots to the rims in ashes, other¬ 
wise the fierce August sun will cause undue evapora- 
