560 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
May 2, 18B6. 
HINTS FOR AMATEURS. 
Winter Flowering Pelargoniums.—Possibly some 
of our readers upon ’noticing this heading will be 
inclined to say, “ What! talking of Winter already ! 
Why we have only just left one winter behind. Is it 
not too soon to begin to talk about another one ? ” 
Here we are fain to parody an old saying, and say, 
" In the midst of spring and summer we are in the 
press of preparation for winter. Those who like to be 
in good time with their Pelargoniums for flowering 
during the dull months of late autumn and winter, will 
have put in their cuttings some weeks ago, and they 
will by this time have rooted sufficiently to warrant 
potting off. The young plants must be separated 
from each other very carefully, so as to avoid injuring 
the tender rootlets as far as possible. Small 6o-sized 
pots will be large enough for the first shift. A 
mixture of loam or leaf soil with sand will answer 
very well as a compost. It is not advisable to make 
the soil rich at this early stage, as it would only con¬ 
duce to too rank, sappy growth, and this is not what 
is wanted. Besides, the plants will only occupy 
these small pots for a very brief space of time, and 
will thus not be able to utilise all the goodness of the 
soil. Thus unless the latter is used for potting up 
some other plants it will to some intent be wasted, 
Late Cuttings.—Those who have not yet made 
preparations for getting up a stock of plants for 
winter flowering had better make all haste in so 
doing. Cuttings struck now will make good plants 
by the autumn, although not quite equal to those 
which a>e obtained from cuttings put in earlier in 
the season. Choose firm shocts from four to six 
inches in length, the lower parts of which have 
begun to assume the brown colouring that denotes 
maturity, as these always root the quickest, and 
produce the best plants. While in the autumn no 
heat is necessary to strike Pelargoniums, the 
formation of roots will be facilitated greatly if the 
cuttings are placed in a gentle heat now. A position 
on a shelf near the glass in a warm greenhouse will 
suit them admirably. 
Sifting Soil.—Many amateurs fall into the mistake 
of supposing the quality of the soil depends npon its 
fineness. Accordingly they put themselves to a lot 
of trouble and pains to sift a heap of soil, and they 
fondly imagine they have been doing a good thing. 
A greater mistake was never entertained. A sieve 
or two are very handy things to have in stock, it is 
true, but they do not need to be brought into play 
at every turn. Naturally, in the preparation of soil 
in which seed is to be sown they are a necessity. 
In dealing with seedlings, or young pot plants of all 
descriptions, when in a young state, the soil used 
must likewise be freed from lumps, so that in this 
case also the sieve plays an important part in the 
preparation of the soil. In many instances, however, 
such as in the potting of Fuchsias, Pelargoniums, 
and other favourite subjects, it is far better to chop 
the loam up finely with the spade, or pull it to pieces 
by hand. The sticks and stones need to be carefully 
removed, but every atom of fibre must be left, for 
this is the life of the soil. Leaf soil, which is difficult 
to manage in this way, may be rubbed through a ‘ 
sieve if it will not pass easily through the mesh with 
the ordinary amount of shaking. 
Hardening off Bedding Plants.—The season is no w 
close upon us when the beds and borders in the 
flower garden will require to be dressed in their 
summer garb. The plants requisite have been 
reposing in security meanwhile under glass, where 
they may have been grown side by side with all sorts 
of tender subjects, which it is not proposed to turn 
outside. Now it would be very hazardous to the 
plants which are to occupy exposed positions to keep 
them coddled up until the last moment, and then to 
turn them out of doors where they get no protection 
whatever. It often happens that we get a spell of 
hot weather towards the end of May, which leads the 
gardener to think that his plants might as well be 
put out at once. He does this, and to his dismay 
the weather turns cold and ungenial, and the poor 
plants are starved nigh unto death with the cold, 
and knocked to pieces with the pelting rain. It is 
imperative, therefore, that some measures should be 
taken to fortify the plants against these fluctuations 
of temperature, and to this end they must be put 
through the process commonly known as “ hardening 
ofl.” If they have, up to the present, been growing 
in a warm greenhouse tney should be shifted as 
soon as possible into a cold frame. This must be 
kept rather close for a few days at first so as to 
render the change gradual. Afterwards air may be 
given in increasing quantities. When the nights are 
warm, the lights must not be closed until the last 
thing ; and for at least a week before planting out is 
theught about some air must be left on all night. 
The plants will thus become inured to cold weather, 
and will be in a condiiion to take care of themselves 
once they are consigned to their permanent quarters. 
Funkias—There are no more beautiful hardy 
plants than these, and none more easily grown. 
Both leaves and flowers in many of the species and 
varieties are exceedingly handsome. F. ovata, with 
bluish-lilac or white flowers is, perhaps, the best 
known and the most commonly cultivated. It is 
common to Japan, Northern China, and Eastern 
Siberia, and was brought to this country about the 
year 1790. F. o. marginata, a very pretty variety 
of this species, has the leaves beautifully margined 
with a broad band of silvery white. 
F. sieboldiana, introduced from Japan in 1836 is 
not quite so well known as those forms previously 
mentioned, but it is quite as handsome as either, 
and as it stands the smoke remarkably well, it is a 
first-class subject for growing in town gardens. 
The flowers are white, slightly flushed on occasion 
with pale lilac, and the blades of the leaves often 
measure twelve inches in length by seven or eight in 
width. 
Funkias like a deep, rich soil, therefore the addition 
of plenty of cow manure to the soil in which they 
are to be grown a while previous to planting will 
prove advantageous. As far as situation goes 
they will thrive anywhere, so long as they receive 
plenty of the all-important light. It does not seem 
to matter whether it be in the rock garden, in beds, 
borders, as edgings to shrubberies, or in pots, they 
seem to do well. More use might very well be 
made of F. sieboldiana as a plant for the filling of 
pots, tubs, or ornamental vases, either for the adorn¬ 
ment of the conservatory or standing about in the 
flower garden. 
The Propagation of Funkias is no difficult 
task, but one that may be confidently undertaken by 
even a tyro in things horticultural. It merely con¬ 
sists in dividing the roots, cutting them up in pieces 
some time during the winter months, and replanting 
them as desired. This may easily be done with the 
help of a sharp spade. It is advisable, however, to 
leave this cutting up until sometime in the spring, 
just as the plants are beginning to make a start. 
The wounds then heal much quicker than do those 
made earlier in the year, and the plants, as a natural 
consequence, suffer less. It will not be wise to 
do too much dividing. Only the thicker and more 
vigorous clumps should be operated on, and several 
crowns should be present in each division selected 
for planting. 
Acers in Poti.—When one takes into considera¬ 
tion the charming effect produced in the conservatory 
by a few pot specimens of these beautiful miniature 
Acers, it is somewhat astonishing that they are not 
more frequently met with. In some of the nurseries 
in and around London we meet from time to time 
with batches of plants in a vigorous condition of 
health, that are sufficient evidence of tbe ability of 
standing the smoke possessed by the plants. This is 
all the more wonderful when we look at the apparent 
delicacy of texture and colouring characterising the 
the leaves. There are many superb varieties to be 
had with the leaves cut to all degrees of fineness, 
In the matter of colour there is also a wide range, 
some forms having rich crimson foliage, others flushed 
with various shades of pink, or variegated to a greater 
or less extent, but all charmingly beautiful. They 
are chiefly varieties of A. japonicum and A. palmatum, 
both Japanese plants, the former being brought from 
there about the year 1863, and the latter some years 
earlier, in 1820. 
It is remarkable how well the plants do in 
relatively small pots, for a six-inch pot will accommo¬ 
date a good-sized specimen. They always seem to 
do better in the small pots than in the large ones, 
and the cultivator should pin his faith to judicious 
feeding with manurial stimulants, rather than 
shifting on into larger pots. Nothing is more 
valuable than ordinary farm-yard manure, especially 
if it can be obtained fresh. A solution of cow 
manure is also excellent. This is rather milder 
perhaps than the farm-yard manure, and it is 
therefore a little safer for an amateur to use. As 
the liquid manure may be given at every watering it 
is better to err on the side of applying it too weak 
than too strong.— Rex. 
Correspondence. 
Questions asked by amateurs on any subject pertaining 
to gardens or gardening will be answered on this page. 
Anyone may give additional or more explanatory answers 
to questions <hat have already appeared. Those who desire 
their communications to appear on this page should write 
"Amateurs' Page " on the top of their letters. 
Setting Tomatos.—Will Tomatos set for fruit with¬ 
out any artificial aid ; or shall I need to go over the 
blooms with a brush in the same way as for Peach 
blossoms ?— Arcto. 
As a rule Tomatos set pretty well without any 
artificial aid if the weather is dry and bright when 
the blooms are open. Still, you may go over the 
blossoms with a camel's-hair brush if you like, but 
do not be too heavy handed. Touch the blooms very 
lightly so as not to bruise the reproductory organs. 
Stopping Tomatos —You should allow your plants 
to run quite to the top of the house, J.Y., before you 
attempt to pinch them. Keep all the side growths 
pinched out as fast as they appear. We do not 
believe in cutting much of the foliage out. 
Double Pelargoniums. —T. T. B. will find the 
following six double Pelargoniums as good as any he 
can get:—Eteranthe, M. Gelein Lowagie, Magenta 
King, White Abbey, Raspail Improved, and Mrs. 
Cope. 
Forced Hyacinths.—Are the bulbs of Hyacinths 
which have been forced of any use for flowering in 
pots again next jear; if not, what would you advise 
me to do with them ?— John Lees. 
It will be of little use your trying to force your 
Hyacinths again the second year. They might 
flower it is true, but only in a very weak and half¬ 
hearted manner. The best thing to do is to plant 
them out in the mixed border, and let them take care 
of themselves. The flowers will still be small, but 
still finer than they would be if you attempted to 
grow them in pots. You may plant them out as soon 
as you like, and thus set the pots at liberty. 
Broccoli and Cauliflower. — Amateur has been 
worrying his head, so he tells us, as to what difference 
there is between these two vegetables, or if there is 
any, and finally comes to the Amateurs’ Page to get 
the mystery solved. 
Both Cauliflower and Broccoli are cultivated 
forms of the wild Cabbage, Brassica oleracea. The 
part that is used as a vegetable is simply the flower 
condensed, and compressed in its early stages by 
long years of cultivation into a dense head. The 
Broccoli differs from the Cauliflower in being hardier, 
and hence used as a late autumn, winter, and spring 
vegetable. It is thus in season from November till 
May, when the Cauliflower comes in and keeps up 
the succession until it is cut down by frost in the 
autumn. By epicures the Cauliflower is believed to 
be of finer and more delicate flavour than the 
Broccoli. This, of course, is largely governed by 
the severity of the winter, a spell of cold winds being 
enough to toughen, if it does not kill, the tenderest 
vegetable. It is also very largely a matter of 
opinion. 
Potting Azaleas. —When may I pot my Azaleas 
and what soil am I to use ? are the queries propounded 
bjJ.T.R. 
The best time to pot Azaleas is just after the 
plants have gone out of flower, and before the young 
growths have got very far advanced. All the seed 
pods should also be picked off the plants before 
operations are commenced. These only serve to 
weaken the plants if allowed to develop. The soil 
may consist of two-thirds of fibrous peat, and one of 
good loam with a liberal addition of sand and a few 
pieces of charcoal. All the crocks from the bottom 
of the ball should be removed, and the fibrous roots 
at the side may be carefully picked out by means of 
a pointed stick, but beyond this the ro: ts should not 
be disturbed. The most important point is to see 
that the new soil is firmly settled all round the old 
ball. A thin lath will come in very useful here, and 
its use will make sure that there are no spaces into 
which the new soil has not penetrated. Pot very 
firmly, and fill the pots with soil up to within a third 
of an inch of the tops of the rims. The main roots 
near the stem of the plant should not be buried, but 
should just appear on the surface when potting is 
completed, the soil being thus rather higher in the 
middle than at the sides. Many deaths are caused 
by carelessness or inattention with regard to this. 
