September 14, 1889. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
23 
was a man of taste, with few prejudices, and we may 
lvgard this figure as representing the Dahlia that was 
considered the best of that day. 
From this time the history rises to a kind of stately 
march, the flower acquires extensive popularity, and as 
autumn approaches the whole country appears to glow 
with Dahlias, for tens of thousands are exhibited, and 
the talk of all the world is about them. The excite¬ 
ment that has prevailed in recent years in connection 
with exhibitions of the Chrysanthemum is as nothing 
when compared with the frenzy of forty years during 
which the Dahlia was the greatest of all the exhibition 
flowers. From 1820 to 1860 was the term of the highest 
popularity of the Dahlia. In the Annual Dahlia 
Register for 1836 we find the favourites advertised by 
the following traders :—Brown, of Slough ; Cooe, of 
Milford, near Salisbury ; George Glenny, of Isleworth 
(who reports that he selects from upwards of 3,000 
double flowers) ; John Harris, of Upway, Dorset ; 
Heale & Son, of Caine ; James Levick, of Sheffield ; 
Bernard Saunders, of Jersey ; Henry Skillman, Marl¬ 
borough ; and George Wheeler, Warminster ; the prices 
ranging from 3s. 6A to 21s. per plant, the average for 
established varieties being then about 5s. to 3s. The 
pets of the period were generally less in size than the 
flowers of the present day, and often had pointed petals 
that were boldly cupped and far away from the smooth¬ 
ness and density that now prevail. One of them, 
Brown’s Glowworm, was the precursor of the Cactus 
series, and comes near to Juarezii in all its characters. 
( To be concluded in our next). 
- ->:£-<-=■ - 
CULTIVATION OP THE SHOW 
DAHLIA. 
By Mb. J. T. West. 
Itf this paper that is now before you, let it be under¬ 
stood that I do not attempt to tell the trade growers 
anything but what they are fully conversant with 
already. The purpose of this paper is to throw out a 
few practical suggestions for criticism, that may ulti¬ 
mately benefit some of my brother amateurs ; also to 
incite others to take up the culture of the Dahlia. 
I do not propose touching upon the propagation of 
the Dahlia, as I consider that to be of secondary im¬ 
portance here to-day, as probably most amateur culti¬ 
vators depend upon the trade grower to supply plants 
in the spring. 
I will further add that I will give my own experience 
in growing for exhibition, which, of course, is of a very 
limited character. 
In the cultivation of the show Dahlia the first thing 
is to make up one’s mind not to be baffled by the many 
obstacles that stand in the way ere success is attained. 
Probably no florist flower has more enemies than the 
Dahlia, nor requires more constant attention. Let 
none think that Dahlia-growing is merely a hobby, 
that can be attended to by merely a casual glance round 
at them. It means real hard work and worry day and 
night, and unless this be done no success will be 
achieved, and the flower will be given up in disgust. 
On the other hand, no flower pays more liberally for 
proper attention and care than the flower whose 
centenary we celebrate to-day. In the first place, let 
those who propose growing the show Dahlia in the 
future, make up their minds as to the number they are 
likely to grow, so that they can prepare the ground 
during the winter months by deep trenching and digging 
in plenty of manure. Let the soil be laid up in a 
rough state, so that the frosts, rains, and snows may 
pulverise and fertilise, and help to keep the vermin 
down. This I consider far better than to begin in 
April or May, as if suddenly remembering there is such 
a flower as the Dahlia, and commencing then to dig 
and manure to a great extent. Really, in my opinion, 
this is courting failure. Though the Dahlia is a great 
feeder, I do not consider it wise to give a lot of manure 
for it to come into contact with, as that has a great 
tendency to make the plant grow rank, and throw 
coarse and rough blooms, thus spoiling all chance of 
success. 
Preparing the Ground. 
The plan I follow is, after the autumn digging, and 
some time before planting, to dig out holes for each 
plant, and put in say half a peck of good old rotten 
manure, thoroughly mixed with the soil. This I find 
sufficient to give the plant a good start, and to support 
it until it commences to flower. 
If a grower does not grow his own plants, it is best 
to give his orders in to the trade as early as possible, 
so as to ensure sufficient of the sorts required, for many 
sorts are shy workers, consequently the stock of many 
of the best varieties is soon sold. 
Early in May the plants will be despatched to their 
various destinations ; probably little sturdy stuff in 
thumb pots. When received, put in a nice warm frame 
or house for a few days, until they are nicely rooted 
round the pots. Then pot into 5-in. or 7-in. pots in 
good loam and dung, with a little sharp sand. Place 
them back into the frame or house until they show they 
are at work ; then give plenty of air to keep sturdy 
and strong, and to prevent drawing up, which is very 
undesirable at any time. 
By the end of May the lights can be drawn off all 
day, and put on again at night, with air at the back, 
until two or three days before planting out, when the 
lights can be removed entirely. 
The first week in Juno is a good time to put the 
plants out in the ground, or in the holes prepared for 
them, taking care that the ground is not too wet, or it 
is likely to give the plants a check, and to cake round 
the roots. 
A good distance, where one has plenty of room, is 6 
ft. from row to row, and 5 ft. from plant to plant in 
the rows. Of course, all are not so favoured as to have 
so much room. But it pays in the long run ; for the 
plants grow stronger and more robust; besides that, it is 
more convenient to get amongst them, especially when 
the weather is wet, for if they are planted thickly, one 
gets wet round the knees in gathering the flowers, or 
looking after them. But we cannot draw a hard line 
in distance of planting, but must go according to how 
we are situated with plenty or little room at our 
disposal. 
"When they are planted, get some Lettuce plants and 
plant between them; these will act as a decoy for slugs, 
they will eat them instead of the Dahlias. "What they 
leave will come in for the table, as they are sure to be 
crisp and good, owing to the goodness of the ground 
the Dahlias are planted in. It is also advisable to put 
a little lime or soot round each plant, as prevention is 
better than cure, and ground vermin have fastidious 
palates. 
Insect Plagues. 
In a few days the plants will commence to grow, and will 
want their stakes, which should be as strong and neat 
as possible, taking care to give long stakes to the tall 
growers, and vice versd. As the staking proceeds, have 
some raffia fibre ready to tie the plants to the stakes as 
you go along, also a basket filled with small pots, with 
a little moss or hay inside, so that they can be put upon 
the tops of the stakes as a trap for earwigs, which will 
soon commence to devour the plants unless kept down 
by constant care. The pots should be taken off every 
morning or evening, to see if there are any earwigs 
lurking inside the moss. Have a piece of stick in the 
hand, and kill all intruders. This is the quickest and 
most effective way; better, I think, than shaking 
them out, as many escape by that method. 
The course above recommended has its disadvantages, 
for the earwigs smell very unpleasant ; but still the 
Dahlia grower is not as a rule very fastidious so long as 
his plants are doing well. 
"While I am speaking of insect plagues, I might as 
well mention that if the weather be very dry, the black- 
fly often makes its appearance at the end of June or 
early in July. This is a scourge, and taxes our patience 
as much as anything. Syringing of an evening with 
tobacco-water, or quassia, is a very good plan, also to 
dust the affected plants over with snuff or tobacco- 
powder ; either will certain'y act as a check upon them. 
Thinning the Branches. 
By the middle of July it will be necessary to thin out 
some of their branches, as too much growth prevents 
the production of fine flowers. This operation must be 
regulated by the nature of the variety ; some sorts are 
apt to come large and coarse, from such we must cut 
away very little, or perhaps, not any. The smaller 
varieties must be cut somewhat severely. "When this 
is done, put side stakes to the plants, one to each 
branch, to prevent wind breaking them. I find four 
side stakes and one centre generally sufficient. A good 
mulching of dung, straw, or anything that will prevent 
the evaporation of the moisture that is now necessary 
to the Dahlia must be given before the plants get too 
large. This plan is also useful for another reason ; 
that yon can walk upon the ground better, as it will 
not pick up so, or cling to the feet to convey loose soil 
to the paths, which it would do after a heavy rain or 
watering, for now the plants will want plenty of water ; 
hard-eyed flowers, such as George Rawlings or Prince 
Bismarck, will want an extra dose. 
Many varieties will now begin to show their buds, 
these must be picked off unless wanted for very early 
shows. These early blooms weaken the plants, and are 
mostly poor, even if left on. Early Dahlia blooms are 
really not wanted in the garden, for they are badly 
shaped, and with nothing special in their colour to 
recommend them. This remark refers to show varieties 
only, not to Cactus or Pompon Dahlias. 
If the centre bud3 are picked off, the side branches 
will soon begin to show buds. These can be left, and 
as soon as they grow as large as a pea, can be thinned 
out to one on a branch, or rather sub-branches, for the 
plants by this time will have broken into perhaps ten 
or twelve branches, and you may leave one bud to 
each. 
In many varieties, perhaps, the plant had better be 
thinned out to six or eight branches to get the blooms 
fit for the exhibition table. Such varieties as Bendigo 
and King of the Purples may be cited in illustration ; 
while varieties like T. J. Saltmarsh, John Standish, or 
Mrs. Langtry may be allowed to carry twelve or more. 
Many amateurs find a difficulty to know what bads 
to leave in thinning, but I have found from the time 
the bud first shows itself to the time it is ready for 
cutting a month is just sufficient. I find sprinkling 
with a rose-can overhead very helpful after a hot, 
drying day, as it assists the plants to recover the loss 
they have sustained during the day. 
Trapping Earwigs. 
"When the petals of the buds be beginning to show, 
then the earwig begins his depredations in earnest. 
What is more trying than to find of a morning promis¬ 
ing buds spoilt by being gnawed all round the edges 
by these pests ? 
A piece of wadding tied loosely round the stalk of 
the buds will be a great check, also liquid india-rubber 
put on the stalks of the buds. This, however, is 
dangerous if used too freely, for the sun sometimes 
heats the rubber, and burns through part of the stalk, 
making it fall over spoilt. But then any remedy must 
be tried. Many bag their buds with bags made of 
muslin, but I do not particularly like them, as they 
often cause the petals to hug one another when they 
are fully out. The best flowers are those which have 
come out in the natural way with the softening influence 
of the dews, and no check to interfere with nature’s 
plan of perfecting beauty. The grower must make up 
his mind to lose many buds under any circumstances. 
About twelve or fourteen days before the show it 
will be advisable to “ pot ” up a few buds—that is, 
place an inverted 32-size pot over them ; this is done 
by having a stake put in the ground, and a piece of 
wood a little larger than the pot, with a split in it for 
the stalk of the bud, the wood to be lifted up to the 
height of the bud, and then made secure to the stake. 
The pot will get warm by the sun’s rays, and will be a 
little forcing house for the bud. Take care to stop all 
crevices, as the earwigs will otherwise think the pots 
are put there for their benefit. 
Should the buds look as though they will be too 
forward after four or five days, take the next forward 
buds and do as in the former case ; but be very careful 
over those that have been taken out of the pots, as with 
care many will be very useful. Put some wadding 
round them, and shade or otherwise try and keep them. 
Selecting Buds and Shading. 
In selecting the buds choose always those with little 
pin-holes in them, as they always make the best blooms. 
There is one thing putting buds under pots will do— 
that is, it will make light flowers purer in colour, also 
tips more distinct—for instance, Mrs. Gladstone will 
come nearly white, and such as Mrs. Saunders clear 
and cleanly tipped. 
As the flowers begin to come out it will be often 
necessary to cover with shades, worked on the same 
system as the boards for potting the buds. This will 
retard the flowers, and also protect them from damage 
by sun and drying winds. Take care the flowers aro 
made secure, otherwise they will chafe. By no means let 
the plaDt suffer for water, as now it will require a lot. 
Perhaps a weak stimulant will be required for some 
sorts, but if the plants have been well looked after in 
their earlier stages they will do without it. 
Stimulants at this period often excite the plants, 
and cause them to throw out unshapely petals, or 
perhaps even to cast them all. There will not be 
much peace for the grower, for the blooms will require 
constant attention by night and day, as caterpillars 
and other insects will soon ravage the lot. Take a 
lantern out at night and there will be seen earwigs and 
other marauders busily engaged in undoing what has 
been done. 
The morning before the show it will be wise to go 
over the blooms, and if there are any doubtful ones 
not likely to stand the full time, cut them and put in a 
cool and dark place without water. By this procedure 
many valuable blooms will be saved. Never cut when 
the blooms are soft, as I think they shrink up when the 
sun is out. Cut early in the morning or late at night, 
when they are stiff and fresh. It is surprising how 
they will open after a little shower or heavy dew. 
When cutting have tubes, corks, and boxes all ready, 
so that they can be put right away without a lot of 
handling, as they do not improve by being pulled 
about; but it is needless for me to go any further, as 
the grower is quite conversant how to cut and stage 
them. 
