September 14, 1889. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
27 
Just now the trees are laden with axillary and terminal 
panicles of rusty tomentose flower-buds, that expand 
in all their glory in spring. The flowers are bluish 
purple, tubular, like those of a small Begonia, and 
as they drop in spring, the ground gets littered 
by them, as it does in Japan, the native home of the 
tree. Fruit is also produced, but not in great quantity, 
and each is ovoid-conical, smooth, with the exception 
of a few prickles or projections, similar to those of a 
Horse Chestnut ; and the woody capsule is from 1 in. 
to ins. long. The rich green of the foliage forms a 
striking contrast to many of the Horse Chestnuts, 
whose leaves are now brown and autumn-like. 
Coronilla varia. 
There is no better plant than this, when well grown, 
lor covering the upper ledges of large rockeries, where 
something of a free-growing and floriferous nature is 
wanted to make a bright appearance towards the end 
of the season, when rock plants in a flowering condition 
are comparatively scarce. It might be said that the 
plant, strictly speaking, should be reckoned only a fit 
occupant of the herbaceous border ; but owing to its 
procumbent or diffuse habit and long flexuose stems, it 
requires tying up in a well-kept herbaceous border, in 
order to prevent its trailing all over the ground and 
occupying space that should legitimately belong to 
something else. This very tying would destroy more 
than half its beauty, and render it artificial-looking 
and distorted. On a broad shelving ledge on the upper 
ridges of a rockery it could ramble at its own free will, 
and produce a quantity of bloom truly surprising. Its 
warm, rosy, pea-shaped flowers are quite distinct in 
appearance from the general run of Coronillas, whether 
herbaceous or shrubby, and which have flowers of some 
shade of yellow. Here, however, they are borne in 
umbels or crowns radiating from a common centre, 
just as in other species. This arrangement has sug¬ 
gested the geneiic name of Coronilla, which means a 
little crown. A fine plant may be seen in the gardens 
of the Royal Horticultural Society at Chiswick. 
Senecio pulcher. 
In the vast genus to which this belongs there is, as 
might be supposed, a great range of variation, but the 
great bulk of them have yellow flower-heads. The 
present is a striking exception, for the long rays are of 
a bright rosy purple. The heads measure some 3 ins. 
in diameter, and a number of such are borne at the 
ends of stems varying from 18 ins. to 21 ins. in length. 
The radical leaves are oblong, deep green, fleshy, dis¬ 
tantly and coarsely toothed ; the stem-leaves are few 
and much smaller, and they are somewhat cobwebby 
in the young state. It is a native of Uruguay, from 
whence it was introduced as recently as 1872, and is 
now getting frequent in gardens, but not nearly so 
common as it ought to be. The reason of this is that 
it grows and increases but slowly, and as far as we are 
aware does not produce perfect seeds in this country, 
although the experience of some may be different. It 
may, however, be increased slowly by division of the 
rootstock, but at a much greater rate by cuttings of its 
fleshy roots, which maybe divided into lengths of 1^ 
ins. to 2 ins., and inserted perpendicularly with one 
end exposed in pots or pans of light soil, surfaced with 
sand. It is, of course, perennial, and so nearly hardy 
that it will outlive the winter in an open border, if the 
soil is rather light and well drained. The crown or 
rootstock would, however, be safer if a hand-light is 
plaeed over it. Some plants may be seen in a north- 
aspect pit in the gardens of the Royal Horticultural 
Society at Chiswick. 
Chelone obliqua alba. 
This is a capital hardy herbaceous plant, blooming 
freely now, of stiff, erect habit, growing about 2 ft. 
high, and a profuse bloomer. Many would be glad to 
see this in their borders, and those who do not possess 
Campanulas persicifolia coronata and albo pleno, I advise 
to get them. They are still in bloom with me, for 
after the first flower I cut away the old ones, not the 
main stalks, and another crop of blooms is the result. 
— W. D. 
-- 
The Gardeners’ Calendar. 
_ 
THE STOVE. 
Late-flowering Subjects. —In order to keep up the 
supply of flowers for cutting purposes, more artificial 
heat will now be required to maintain a night tem¬ 
perature of 68° or 70°. Allamandas, Clerodendrons, 
Passifloras, and Ixoras will supply a considerable 
quantity of flowers, and should be encouraged by a 
high temperature, liberal supplies of moisture, with 
manure water occasionally. The last named should 
also be kept near the light, together with Clerodendron 
fallax and Roadeletia speciosa. Various species of 
Passiflora, including P. Raddiana (better known as 
P. kermesina), P. cccrnlea, P. cceruleo-racemosi, and 
P. racemosa, will yet afford large quantities of bloom 
where the conditions most favourable to growth are 
maintained. 
Poinsettias and Eupiiorbias. —Frequent doses of 
liquid nnnure must be given the Poinsettias, as the 
pots are now quite filled with root3. This will help to 
maintain the foliage in a healthy condition, provided 
the plants are kept in a warm place well exposed to 
light. The earlier plants are almost sure to lose their 
lowest leaves, but the object should be to retain them 
as long as possible. Euphorbia fulgens (E. jacquiniie- 
flora) must be kept well exposed to light, and the 
plants arranged rather thinly, so as to allow the light 
to play through and ripen the wood, otherwise good 
results cannot be expected. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Chinese Primulas. —The earliest batch of these will 
now have made good growth, and may be allowed to 
commence flowering, provided that others are coming 
on satisfactorily to take their place later on. The pots 
will now be well filled with roots, and encouragement 
to produce blooms should be given by the use of weak 
supplies of liquid manure. The double kinds will now 
require more heat than they have been receiving, in 
order to dispel moisture and prevent damping of the 
foliage, which is likely to happen in frames at present 
on account of the heavy dews at night. The shelves or 
stages of an intermediate house close to the glass will 
now suit those about to flower better than any other 
position. As in the case of the single kinds, the 
doubles will be greatly benefited by manure-water twice 
a week. 
Hyacinths. —The main batch of bulbs should be 
potted up without delay, unless it be desired to retard 
them as much as possible for late flowering. This 
applies to Hyacinths, Crocuses, Narcissi, and Tulips. 
They should be stood on a bed of ashes out of doors, 
and covered with the same, or what is better, with 
coco-nut fibre or bark refuse. If ashes are used, be 
careful that they are clean and free from injurious 
liquids. Pot in good fibrous loam, with some well- 
decayed cow-manure and a sprinkling of silver-sand. 
Liliums. —Both L. auratum and L. speciosum will 
now be going past their best, or the earlier ones even 
ripening. This process should not be hastened by the 
sudden withholding of water, otherwise the bulbs will 
shrivel or lose considerably in plumpness. Neither 
should the soil in the pots be allowed to get dust dry 
during the winter, even if it is necessary to give a 
watering occasionally to prevent it. 
Richardias and Salvias. —Plants of this that have 
been grown in the open border should be lifted and 
potted before long, so that they may get established 
and be ready to put into safe quarters before the advent 
of early frosts, as their leaves are very easily injured, 
and although the Richardias will ultimately flower well 
enough, it makes them late to have their leaves injured 
or destroyed by frost. Silvias, of course, when so 
injured never recover their pristine freshness or beauty. 
THE FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vineries. —The earliest Vines may be pruned as soon 
as the leaves have fallen, cutting back the laterals to a 
plump and prominent bud, or at all events to the best 
bud, even if it should be an inch or two above the base 
of the lateral. In the case of Vines that are fruited 
very early, the matter of close pruning is of less im¬ 
portance than for permanent Vines. Where the leaves 
are still green, apply a little fire heat, with plenty of 
ventilation. Look over Grapes that are still hanging, 
and remove any that are spoiling. During wet weather 
this must be done every day, otherwise one bad berry 
will soon destroy a number of others. The front venti¬ 
lators should be closed if fog or wet prevails ; but no 
injury will be done by leaving the top open, provided 
the pipes are kept warm so as to dispel the damp. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Stone Fruits. —Peach trees on walls should be gone 
over every day to collect the fruits before they fall. If 
not sufficiently ripe for use they may be laid on the 
shelves of the fruit room, or even on the shelves of one 
of the hothouses where a dry atmosphere is maintained. 
A day or two will mellow and ripen them nicily. 
They will, of course, keep longer in the fruit room. 
Plums ripen very gradually, and may with safety be 
left on the trees for some time to come if not ready for 
use. Late growths on Peaches and Nectarines should 
be removed, as well as old wood from which the fruit 
has been gathered in order to admit light to ripen the 
wo od. 
ORCHID NOTES AND GLEANINGS. 
The Orchid Growers’ Calendar, 
Where the bulk of the cool Odontoglossums are just 
being re-potted, it is best to have the shades down all 
the time the sun is on the house, so as to give the 
newly potted plants a better chance of getting well 
hold of the new compost; for if allowed to stand and 
endure any sun-light after having been turned out of 
their pots they might take longer to get well established 
again, and the plants ought to be rooting freely, and be 
full of vigour before the cold, foggy days come along. 
The plants which have not been recently shifted will 
be all the better for a little sun early in the morning, 
and late in the afternoon. 
The shading on the Cattleya house will not he needed 
down quite so long now, and it will be a decided 
advantage if the plants can be stood in batches so that 
such as C. Triame may enjoy an increased amount of 
air and sun now that the plants have finished their 
growth. The grand old Lielia purpurata is now pushing 
its growths, and if allowed a liberal amount of good 
fibrous peat to root in will continue to make stout 
flowering growths yearly, but it is a plant which dis¬ 
likes being pot-bound for any length of time, and soon 
begins to go back. In re-potting it is best to allow pot 
room enough for two years’ growth, as it is not advis¬ 
able to disturb it oftener than necessary. 
Cattleya Bowringiana is also growing freely and 
should be liberally treated with water at the roots. 
This species is very useful, flowering as it does in the 
dullest months of the year ; and when its merits are 
better known it will doubtless be more fully appreciated. 
"VVe have one plant of the original importation, which 
flowered last year in much batter form and which was 
much richer in colour than when it flowered the first 
season we had it, which seems to prove that when well 
established it will be a decided gain. The numerous 
importations during the past two years have brought 
this Cattleya within the reach of all those who desire to 
grow it, for fortunately it is a good doer and is well 
worth growing.— W. P. 
Trichopilia rostrata. 
There are some sixteen species of Trichopilia, including 
those generally ranged under Pilumna, Leucochyle, 
Helcia, and Oliveriana. The first two names only are 
frequent in gardens. T. fragrans and T. nobilis, which 
are probably not specifically distinct from it, are known 
by most practical growers under the name of Pilumna. 
T. rostrata is a pretty species, with flowers of medium 
size, produced in pairs on the peduncles. The sepals 
and petals are pale yellowish, and more or less undu¬ 
lated or twisted, the petals sometimes being twice 
coiled. The lip, of course, is the most conspicuous and 
ornamental part of the flower, and is pure white with 
the exception of the throat and interior part of the 
tube, which is described as having pale orange rays. 
Our correspondent, Mr. Alex. Chalmers, gardener to 
Captain Maxwell, Terregles, Dumfries, sent us a speci¬ 
men with the tube from the throat downwards of a 
bright orange. The side lobes were rolled round the 
column, so as to form a tube of considerable size. The 
pseudo-bulbs are thin and narrowly strap-shaped. 
Although introduced in 1872 from New Granada, 
the species is not yet very freely disseminated in 
gardens. 
Aerides quinquevulnerum. 
W ith the exception of size this species bears a strong 
resemblance to that handsome Aerides, R. Lawrencise. 
The sepals and petals are white, dotted with rosy 
purple, and each tipped with a large blotch of a 
similar colour. The five blotches, meaning five- 
wounded, have given rise to the specific name, and by 
these marks alone it can readily be distinguished from 
others, except A. Lawrencise, than which it is smaller. 
The lip is prominently spurred, three-lobed and erect, 
folded against the column, the central lobe being 
incurved and deep crimson, while the lateral lobes are 
pink. The conical spur is green. The flowers are 
produced in long drooping racemes from the axils of 
the leaves, which are arranged in a two-ranked manner, 
ligulate, unequally lobed at the apex, and about 12 ins. 
long. It flowers in July and August, and we noted it 
recently in the nursery of Messrs. B. S. Williams, 
Upper Holloway. Specimens were originally imported 
from the Philippines in 1838, but until comparatively 
recently the species was considered rare in this country. 
There is a pure white and very rare variety in culti¬ 
vation named A. q. Farmeri. Both the type and the 
variety are fragrant and desirable plants for a collection. 
