September 28, 1889. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
61 
the colouring cannot be laid down at this season, as all 
varieties of Coleus colour much better in the spring 
and summer. It was exhibited by Messrs. Hewitt & 
Co., Solihull Nurseries, Birmingham, and an Award of 
Merit was granted for it. It will be useful to exhi¬ 
bitors as an easily grown and very telling fine-foliaged 
plant. 
Dianthus sinensis flore pleno. 
Two double-flowered varieties of the Chinese Pink were 
exhibited by Mr. R. Dean, Ealing, at the last meeting 
of the Royal Horticultural Society, when an Award of 
Merit was accorded the variety named Snowflake, which 
was pure white, with very numerous cut petals and 
large flowers. That named King of Crimsons was of 
an intense shade of crimson of uniform tint, and the 
flowers were large and fully double. 
Gypsophila elegans. 
The greatest favourite amongst the numerous species of 
this genus in Britain, or at all events in and around 
London, is G. paniculata, which is rather extensively 
grown by the florist and others for mixing amongsts 
cut flowers, bouquets, &e. The stems are exceedingly 
much-branched, ultimately terminating in small white 
flowers. They are not, however, very long-lived after 
being cut, owing, probably, to the fineness of the 
stalks. In Paris G. elegans takes its place, and seems 
equally, if not more, elegant and desirable. The 
flowers are pure white or sometimes blush, and if less 
numerous than those of G. paniculata, are much larger 
and prettier. They also seem more durable, perhaps 
because cut with long stalks, or even in some cases 
pulled up by the roots and placed in water. The 
blooms, furthermore, are larger than most species 
common in British gardens, with the exception of the 
dwarf rockwork kind, G. cerastioides, which bears only 
a few large pink-coloured flowers. G. elegans may be 
seen in any large florist’s shop, as well as on the market 
stalls, and in the collections of nurserymen who make 
a speciality of herbaceous plants. It was originally 
introduced to this country from Tauria in 1820, but is 
seldom met with at present. 
Begonia Rex Varieties for Rockwork. 
In suitable situations these are lovely objects, and 
especially for disposing among Ferns in rockeries. I 
was much struck with the beautiful effect produced by 
the planting of several distinct varieties in a fernery 
attached to the conservatory at Pierremont, Darlington. 
They grow most luxuriantly, and when thoroughly 
established require very little attention. They contrast 
splendidly with the deep green foliage of the various 
Ferns, and are more hardy than many people believe 
them to be. Several new varieties have recently been 
introduced, and amongst them are some very distinct 
and beautiful novelties ; those who have rockeries 
should try them, for the effect of planting them as Mr. 
Ford does is simply charming.— Rusticus. 
The Winter Cherry. 
The popular name of Physalis Alkekengi would lead 
one to suppose it to be a real Cherry ; but a single 
glance at it soon dispels the notion. The calyx enlarges 
as the fruit grows, and forms a large, inflated, somewhat- 
ridged globe, closed at the mouth and completely con¬ 
cealing the fruit from view. This is about the size of a 
small globular cherry, green at first, but changing to 
red as it ripens ; and contemporaneously with this, the 
inflated calyx assumes an orange hue and is then the 
most conspicuous and ornamental part of the plant. 
The flowers are scattered, of medium size, and white, 
and therefore of no consequence. The fruits themselves 
being completely concealed are unimportant so far as 
ornament is concerned. For autumn effect the plant 
is, however, worthy of a place in the herbaceous border. 
Some of it may be seen in the herbaceous border at 
Chiswick, in the gardens of the Royal Horticultural 
Society. Another species named P. edulis, a native of 
Peru, is known as the Cape Gooseberry, and from the 
fruits being edible is of some economic value. The 
berries have a pleasant sub-acid flavour ; but the plant 
is only half-hardy, and requires the shelter of a wall in 
a favoured place in this country to ripen fruit in the 
open. 
Daphne cneorum. 
This is a beautiful and much prized hardy plant, 
bearing pink heads of flowers, with a very 
sweet perfume, and is easily grown in sheltered 
positions, especially if planted in sandy loam or 
peaty soil. As it is very low growing it should be 
planted either in clumps by itself, or on rockwork, or 
on the edge of borders, and as its foliage is good it 
looks well all the year round.— A. Gaut. 
-- 
The Gardeners’ Calendar. 
—-i*- 
THE STOVE. 
Clerodendrons —The nights are now getting very 
cold, and where Clerodendrons in pots have been trans¬ 
ferred to houses with a greenhouse temperature, they 
should be brought back to the stove, otherwise they 
will soon suffer harm by the loss both of roots and 
flower-bearing wood. The injury may not become 
apparent for a long time ; but when the plants are 
pruned back in spring in readiness for starting, many 
of the shoots will fail to show signs of life. 
Coleus. —Cuttings should now be taken of all the 
fine-leaved Coleus it is intended to preserve. The old 
plants are seldom of much further use after this date, 
as they lose so much in colour. They may serve to 
enliven the conservatory, however, during the remaining 
part of autumn, until the crowding of the houses with 
winter stuff compels the grower to throw them away to 
make room lor the housing of many different subjects 
during winter. - 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Heaths, Azaleas, &c. —No time should now be lost 
in housing tnese for the winter. Before doing so, see 
that the structure intended for their reception is 
thoroughly cleaned out. If there is the least trace of 
mildew on the foliage, have the latter well dusted with 
flour of sulphur before placing them indoors. Keep the 
house well ventilated day and night, unless there is an 
appearance of frost. Epacris and all other hard-wooded 
New Holland plants should also be taken indoors, if 
this has not already been done ; Camellias will also be 
safer indoors, lest their flower-buds should get damaged 
by frost. The double kinds are more liable to drop 
their buds than the small-flowered and single species. 
Young plants heavily laden with bloom require to be 
more carefully tended than large plants in order to 
prevent the buds dropping. 
Salvias and Chrysanthemums. —Some frosty 
nights recently remind us of the damage done to 
Chrysanthemums and many other plants in the early 
part of October last year, and all careful gardeners will, 
no doubt, be more on their guard on this occasion. If 
it is inconvenient to house Chrysanthemums for some 
time yet, it would be well to erect some light moveable 
framework with a few poles and cross rods, or even 
wires, over which some light covering could be thrown 
which would ward off some degrees of frost by keeping 
the plants dry, and preventing radiation. Autumn or 
spring frosts are easily warded off by any light covering 
put up in this way, even should the sides be open. The 
more hardy of the Salvias, such as S. involucrata, S. i. 
Betheli, S. angustifolia, S. a. Pitcheri, S. Grahami, 
and others may be protected in the same way as Chry¬ 
santhemums. The more tender kinds, such as S. 
splendens and S. Hoveyi, should be moved under glass 
at once, if that has not already been done. 
Show and Fancy Pelargoniums. —Even the latest- 
flowered kinds should now be potted, if they have not 
already been attended to in that respect. Reduce the 
ball so that the plants may be got into a size smaller, 
and use fibrous loam of good consistency. Pot rather 
firmly, and return the plants to the shelves of a well- 
ventilated cool greenhouse, re-potting into the flowering 
pots later on, after the plants have made good roots 
and some top growth. This can be done during a mild 
time. It is better thus to give two shifts rather than 
to put the plants into their flowering pots at once. 
Calceolarias. —The later batches of these should 
be potted off to prevent their becoming drawn in the 
seed pans and boxes. Those that have not been 
pricked off at all had better be done, so that in potting 
up they may lift with good balls. Do not allow them 
to get over dry, but at the same time take every care 
that they do not become saturated with wet. They 
should also be placed where light and air will play 
freely upon the plants to keep them sturdy. 
THE FRUIT HOUSES. 
The earliest Vines, where forcing is commenced in 
November, should now be matured and have lost their 
leaves. When such is the case they may be pruned at 
once, and to prevent bleeding when being forced the 
ends of the spurs may be dressed with some styptic. 
Remove loose bark by rubbing with the hand, and give 
the rods a good washing with a strong solution of soft- 
soap or Gishurst Compound. Then bend down the rods 
in a horizontal position, so as to make the buds start 
equally all along the stem. It may be well to re¬ 
member that this is more necessary in the case of 
young than old Vines. Keep the ventilators open both 
top and bottom at night as well as by day till forcing 
commences. In houses where fruit is still hanging 
ventilate freely both at top and bottom ; but when 
fog or wet prevails, the best way to keep it out is to 
open the top ventilators, keep the bottom ones closed, 
and use a little fire-heat to cause a circulation and 
dispel damp. Any watering of the borders that may 
be required should be done on the mornings of fine 
days, using fire-heat to get rid of the superfluous 
moisture. Muscats should now be kept cool if perfectly 
ripe, but a little fire-heat will be necessary at night to 
keep the temperature up to 55° on cool nights and 60° 
when mild. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Fruits on Walls. —It will now be necessary to pro¬ 
tect Peaches on walls to prevent them being destroyed 
by blackbirds and thrushes, which seem particularly 
abundant this season. Pears and Apples are also 
suffering from their ravages, especially on standard and 
pyramid trees. To net all would be a tiresome and 
expensive process, but valuable kinds on walls well 
repay the trouble. 
Raspberries. —Where pruned and grown for the 
purpose of fruiting in autumn, it is now time to turn 
the attention there, because birds are particularly fond 
of this fruit and can with difficulty be kept away, even 
by the use of nets. Where the nets are old, a double 
fold may be used with advantage. 
-•>£*•- 
ORCHID NOTES AND GLEANINGS, 
- 
The Orchid Growers’ Calendar, 
The brilliant weather of the past three weeks must 
have acted beneficially on those Orchids which had 
finished growing, and were in consequence in a resting 
and ripening condition, and if our expectations are 
realised, we shall see as the result larger flowers and 
more intense colouring produced by the plants, 
especially of Dendrobiums, than were produced by the 
growths made during the wet and sunless summer of 
1888. 
Lielia anceps is now enjoying full sun, and the flower 
spikes are well advanced ; but a slight spraying over 
with the syringe early in the afternoon will help them 
considerably, if in a place where they can get dry again 
before dark. Less damping down is needed now, and 
it is advisable to allow each section to get dry for an 
hour or two in the middle of the day, as this helps to 
ripen up the growths, and thus gradually prepare the 
plants for passing through the winter successfully, 
especially Phalieaopsids, Saccilabiuuii, Aerides, &e., 
which are liable to suffer from spot if grown in houses 
constantly saturated with moisture late ia the autumn. 
This damping-down business requires doing in¬ 
telligently, as well as all other things connected with 
Orchid-growing, for the state of the atmosphere outside, 
and the condition of the houses themselves, must, of 
necessity, be taken into consideration, some houses 
having so much more moisture-holding surface than 
others. Damping down morning and evening will be 
sufficient in most houses at this time of the year. 
The 5° of frost on the mornings of the 17th and 23rd, 
and 3° on the 18th, reminds us that it is necessary to 
look over the occupants of the cool house, and to 
remove any plants which have been growing there for 
the summer, but which require slightly warmer quarters 
in which to pass the winter, and which comprise such 
things as Miltonia vexillaria, M. Phal®nopsis, M. 
Warscewiczii, Masdevallias of the Chimiera section, M. 
tovarensis, and Odontoglossum mevium majus, while 
O. cirrosum ought to be accommodated with the 
warmest spot in the cool house. 
Any young flower spikes of Oncidium crispum, 0. 
varicosum, or 0. Forbesii growing in the cool house 
will prove tempting morsels to slugs, which travel so 
freely about in the damp evenings and seem to have a 
good notion where to find a choice supper ; therefore, 
the above plants are safest in a warmer place, and will 
open better in a temperature 5° higher than the cool 
house is at present. The temperatures at present 
are East Indian house, 75° by day, 70° at night; 
Oattleya house, 70° by day, 60° to 65° at night ; cool 
house, 60° by day, 50° at night.— IV. P. 
Cattleya, Miss Harris. 
This new, beautiful, and distinct hybrid has been 
obtained from C. Mossiae fertilised with the pollen of 
