92 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 12, 1889. 
have recourse to covering the plants for a period of 
nearly three weeks with tiffany, owing to the cold 
frosty nights setting in so early. From the present 
time until the shows begin is a period of anxiety to the 
exhibitor, and unless he is watchful and attentive to 
details, twelve months’ work may be spoiled in a couple 
of days, by what is known to growers as “blooms 
damping.” To minimise the risk of this, the plants 
must have an abundance of air night and day, and at 
no time ought the top ventilators to be entirely closed. 
In the evening, and in wet weather, just sufficient heat 
should be turned on as will prevent a cold stagnant 
atmosphere. All watering of the plants should be done 
in the morning, and discontinue feeding with stimulants 
when the blooms are about half expanded.— J. H. 
-- 
ORCHID NOT ES AND GLEANINGS. 
The Orchid Growers’ Calendar. 
Amongst the great number of varieties of Oncidiums to 
be found in cultivation, there is, perhaps, none more 
welcome at this season of the year than 0. tigrinum, 
for a good spike or two is enough to give the house 
such a primrose-like perfume as would satisfy the most 
ardent of Primrose dames. Though the colours of 
Oncidiums are generally yellow and brown, there 
are many notable exceptions, which if not so 
showy at a distance as 0. Marsliallianum or 0. 
ampliatum majus for instance, yet are charming plants 
when well grown. 
One of these now pushing up its flower spikes is 0. 
Phalienopsis, which grows very freely in the cool house 
either in pots or pans, and when treated like Oionto- 
glossum crispum never fails to flower satisfactorily. 0. 
cucullatum and its giant form are two others of the 
same class, while 0. papilio and 0. Kramerianum when 
in flower are always attractive to visitors, on account of 
the flowers so nearly resembling butterflies. These two 
latter varieties thrive best in the warm house, and 
though the flower spikes will keep on for years, and 
produce flowers periodically, it is not wise to allow one 
spike to carry more than five or six flowers, or the 
plant will suffer eventually. 
One of the most charming of Oncidiums of compact 
growth for flowering early in the spring is undoubtedly 
O. concolor, for when grown in pans in the cool house, 
suspended from the roof, it is very beautiful when in 
flower, and never fails to attract attention, the clear 
canary-yellow being none too plentiful in the cool house. 
Now is the time they are finishing up their bulbs, and 
will be pushing spikes shortly. Should any thrips be 
lurking about in the cool house they are sure to find 
the young spikes of 0. concolor, at least, that is our 
experience ; unless prevented they will soon cause them 
to turn brown, the buds consequently becoming crippled 
later on. Therefore, as prevention is more satisfactory 
than cure, it is advisable to give them a dip in weak 
tobacco-water occasionally, afterwards laying the pots 
on their sides to drain. Other Oncidiums which need 
an occasional dip are 0. superbiens, 0. undulatum, 0. 
serratum, and 0. macranthum, as well as Miltonia 
vexillaria and Odontoglossum cirrhosum. This may 
seem to be needless work, but it is not so in reality, for 
disfigured foliage, which results from the undisturbed 
presence of thrips, is not what lovers of Orchids enjoy 
seeing, and if these different plants are done at the 
same time periodically, they will pay for the extra 
trouble ultimately. 
Care should be taken that vineries or other cool 
houses in which Dendrobiums, Thunias, &c., are resting 
do not go down below 50°, and it is best to water the 
plants, when they require it, early in the day, so that 
the surroundings may get dried up again before night. 
— W. P. 
L/ELIA autumnalis alba. 
All the segments of this species are revolute at the 
tips, and the whole flower is white with the exception of 
a few unimportant points. The sepals are oblong- 
lanceolate, the petals oblanceolate and broader, and 
the three-lobed lip is furnished with three ridges 
extending along the tube, at the mouth of the latter of 
which there is a yellow blotch on the ridges. The 
column is white tinted with pink at the apex, and 
furnished with a yellow blotch at the base of the inner 
face, dotted with purple. "With the exception of these 
blotches on the column and that on the crest of the lip 
the rest of the flower is pure white. The scapes of the 
specimen shown stood about 15 ins. to 18 ins. high. 
The leaves are ligulate and channelled, are borne two 
or three together at the apex of the fusiform and ribbed 
pseudo-bulbs. The specimen was exhibited by Messrs. 
J. Veitch & Sons, Chelsea, at the meeting of the Royal 
Horticultural Society on Tuesday last, and received a 
First Class Certificate. 
L/ELIA PR/ESTANS alba. 
In this we have a beautiful albino of a well-known and 
highly-esteemed Orchid. The sepals are lanceolate and 
white ; the petals are elliptic, acute, and purer white. 
The tube of the lip is white, while the lamina and 
inrolled side lobes forming the mouth of the tube are of 
a rich deep purple, with a white blotch at the bifid 
apex. The edges of the lamina and the mouth of the 
tube, are also crisped or somewhat plaited. The plant 
was otherwise similar to the type, which was shown 
alongside of it. B >th plants were exhibited by Mr. 
W. Bull, King’s Road, Chelsea, at the meeting of the 
Royal Horticultural Society on the 8th inst., and a First 
Class Certificate was awarded for the white variety. 
CVPRIPEDIU M PICTURATUM. 
In general aspect the flower of this garden plant 
resembles C. insigne ; but in colour and several other 
particulars it is quite different. It would appear to be 
a hybrid between C. insigne and C. Spicerianum. The 
upper sepal or standard is broad, revolute at the sides, 
white, tinted with pale purple, and at the base green, 
with a deeper purple mid-rib. The petals are oblong, 
suffused with greenish yellow and pale purple on a 
white ground, and dotted with purple on the basal half. 
The labellum is large, purple, and reticulated with 
slender, darker lines. The staminode is a soft purple, 
edged with white, and marked with green in the centre. 
It was shown by Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart., M. P., 
Burford Lodge, Dorking, at the meeting of the Royal 
Horticultural Society on Tuesday last, and received a 
First Class Certificate. 
Lycaste plana Cumminsi. 
The pseudo-bulbs of this Orchid are stout, ovoid, and 
strongly one or two-ridged on the face, bearing large, 
lanceolate, plicate leaves. The sepals are broadly 
oblong, and of a dark, shining brown colour. The 
erect petals are recurved at the tip, and creamy white 
with a pale purple blotch on the centre above the 
middle. The lip has a white tube, and a recurved, 
crisped, reddish purple lamina, with a crest of the same 
colour. The specimen in question was exhibited at the 
Drill Hall on Tuesday last by A. H. Smee, Esq. (gar¬ 
dener, Mr. G. Cummins), The Grange, Wallington, 
and received an Award of Merit from the Royal Horti¬ 
cultural Society. 
Cattleya Hardiana, Wrigley’s Var. 
This handsome Cattleya is reckoned a hybrid between 
C. gigas and C. Dowiana. The large, oblong, leathery 
leaves vary from 6 ins. to 8 ins. in length, and are 
borne singly on the pseudo-bulbs. The scape of the 
plant shown at the meeting of the Royal Horticultural 
Society on the 8th inst. had four fully expanded 
flowers. The sepals are pile rosy purple ; the petals 
broader, oblong-elliptic, purple, and beautifully reticu¬ 
lated with paler veins. The lip is intermediate between 
the two parents. At the sides of the tube internally, 
and along the centre of the tube, the colouration con¬ 
sists of orange and intense purple in alternate lines. 
The upper portion or lamina is of an intensely rich 
crimson-purple, while the sides on the lower half of it 
are soft orange, becoming paler towards the margin 
where there is a border of rosy purple. The column 
is suffused with pale purple. The specimen was shown 
by E. G. Wrigley, Esq., Howick House, Preston, and 
received an Award of Merit. 
-- 
The Gardeners’ Calendar. 
THE STOVE. 
Crotons and Dracaenas. —Now that the growth is 
ripened up, and space becomes more valuable, Crotons 
may be tied in and trimmed up, so as to occupy less 
room. Straggling shoots that are not required may be 
cut away ; of course, this applies to large or exhibition 
specimens. They will then permit of being more 
closely stood together, and will be in the right condition 
in spring for making an even start into growth. 
Dracienas that have grown toa tall for ordinary deco¬ 
rative purposes may have a ring cut in the stem just 
below the head of leaves, and a handful of sphagnum 
moss tied round them into which they can form roots 
before cutting the top clean away. A flower-pot cut 
in two may be used for the same purpose, filling it with 
light soil, and keeping the latter well watered until 
roots are produced. 
Alocasias, &c. — Old and fading leaves that are no 
longer of any decorative value may be removed, thus 
reducing the plants in size, and allowing the light free 
access to the remaining healthy leaves. This also 
applies to other fine-foliaged subjects, such as Anthu- 
riums, Calatheas, Dieffenbachias, and others of that 
class. _ 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
Chrysanthemums.— Notwithstanding the absence of 
frost recently, all plants in pots or intended for indoor 
flowering should now be housed without further delay. 
Give the plants what staking and tying they require, and 
clean the pots before taking them indoors ; by so doing 
they will occupy the least space, and all unnecessary 
wetting of the house will be avoided, a matter of no 
little consequence if damping and mildew is to be 
avoided. The weather, if mild, has been wet and 
otherwise unfavourable to newly-housed Chrysanthe¬ 
mums, and all care should be exercised in watering, 
performing the operation early in the day, so that the 
moisture may be dried up before night. A vinery from 
which the Grapes have been cut is a suitable place for 
housing Chrysanthemums, and they should be taken 
there at once, where they are to flower. Keep the 
house airy and cool. 
Camellias. —These should be housed without further 
delay, if that operation has hitherto been deferred ; 
because although hardy enough in the southern coun¬ 
ties, the buds of large-flowering double kinds would be 
liable to suffer in the event of sharp frost. What 
sponging or other cleaning is necessary should be done 
before the plants are taken into their winter quarters, 
both for convenience sake and for the maintenance of 
cleanliness indoors. A shed or similar structure 
would be found a suitable place for the operators, 
should the weather prove showery. 
Hellebores. —It is the custom of many to lift their 
plants of Helleborus niger, and put them in pots, bas¬ 
kets or on the forcing bed ; but the plan is not to be 
recommended on a large scale on account of the injury 
to the plants so operated upon. A much better plan is 
to place frames or hand-lights over the plants where 
they are growing. If kept somewhat close, flowers of 
great purity may be obtained even in the stormiest of 
weather, and that, too, much earlier than from wholly 
unprotected plants. 
THE FRUIT HOUSES. 
Vineries. — The latest Muscats should by this 
time be well finished up; but if not, continue a 
little fire-heat until they are so, otherwise they cannot 
be expected to keep well during the dull wet month of 
November. On bright days it will occasionally be 
necessary to damp down the house a little in order to 
maintain the health of the foliage. The early vinery 
may now be pruned and got into readiness for closing 
later on. Prune back to a good bud, and then proceed 
to dress the rods, cleaniug away what loose bark can 
be removed by the hands. Then with a hard half- 
worn brush thoroughly scrub every crevice of the bark 
with a solution of Gishurst Compound at the rate of 
6 ozs. of the insecticide to a gallon of water, or even 
twice that amount if mealy bug is prevalent. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Root-pruning. —Any root-pruning considered neces¬ 
sary had better be done while there still remains suffi¬ 
cient warmth in the soil to sustain root action until the 
trees again become partly established. Trees so treated 
at this time will be in much better condition to start 
into growth in spring and bear a crop thau those left 
till mid-winter or even later. Young pyramidal and 
bush trees, if growing too rampantly, may be lifted, 
and after having the roots that strike perpendicularly 
into the soil cut away, they should be replanted, 
spreading out their roots horizontally about 6 ins. below 
the soil. Trees on walls may have a trench cut round 
them at a distance from the wall proportionate to their 
size, and all the long rampant roots shortened back. 
If long tap-roots are suspected, dig beneath and remove 
them, afterwards filling in the soil, and making sure 
that it is trodden quite firm to prevent sinking. Keep 
the roots as near the surface as possible. 
-- 
Gardehess’ ImoiEMiNT Societies. 
Birmingham and Midland Counties. 
The first meeting of the autumn session of this society 
was held on Tuesday evening, October 1st. The 
president, Sir Thomas Martineau, occupied the chair, 
and about 130 members were present, including 
Professor Hillhouse, Rev. J. A. Williams, Mr. Latham, 
