104 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 19, 1889. 
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Dahlias: Seeds and Roots. 
Ix cases where the frosts have spared the Dahlias—and 
it is singular to note that while in some parts almost 
contiguous the frost quite spared the plants, in 
others it laid them low—and there is a desire to save all 
the seed, the pods will be found ready for cutting. 
The best method in gathering is to cut the pods with a 
good piece of the stalk attached, tie them up in 
bunches of six or eight, and allow them to hang up in 
some dry and airy place, and as they begin to turn 
brown, pull them to pieces, and spread the seeds out 
thinly on paper to become quite dry. I think but few 
amateurs attempt the raising of seedling Dahlias; 
perhaps it is felt that the varieties in cultivation are so 
good, that there is but a remote chance of improving 
upon them. The principal raisers in the present day 
are Messrs. Keynes & Co., of Salisbury; the Rev. Charles 
Fellowes, Shottesham Rectory, Norwich ; Mr. C. 
Turner, of Slough ; Mr. Geo. Harris, Orpington, Kent ; 
and Messrs. Rawlings Bros., Romford. I do not mean 
to say this exhausts the list, but the names I have 
given form a group of the principal raisers. Un¬ 
fortunately, as seedling Dahlias are bloomed from seeds 
sown in the spring, they are frequently cut down by 
frost before they can get into flower. In a favourable 
season the most promising ones are marked as they 
come into bloom, and they are tried the following 
year, and still another if necessary. Seedling Dahlias, 
like other flowers, [are somewhat disappointing, and 
need to be well tested in order to arrive at a correct 
estimate of their qualities. 
The time for lifting the roots of Dahlias will soon be 
at hand. Some growers leave the foliage on as long as 
possible, even though it may be blackened by frost. 
The chief point is to take care that any decay in the 
stem does not reach down to and endanger the root ; 
so it is well to cut the stem away to 18 ins. or so of 
the ground when such a danger is apparent. But the 
roots should not be left in the ground long enough to 
be in danger of being damaged by keen frost, and so 
advantage should be taken of a dry day to get them up. 
But the longer the roots can remain in the ground 
with safety, the shorter is the winter through which 
they have to be kept, for there are risks to be run, 
especially from decay, and great losses sometimes 
occur. 
At Slough for instance, when a large number of 
roots have to be lifted, they are taken up on a dry day, 
laid out on mats in the sunshine, and any of the 
heavier portions of the soil clinging to the tubers 
cleared away before they are carried to a shed ere night 
closes. During winter the roots at Slough are kept in 
a dry shed, and stored on shelves covered with mats, 
and when keen frost is prevalent, the roots are carefully 
kept from it by the use of a small stove. They are 
frequently examined during the winter, so that any 
indications of decay may be noticed and their progress 
stopped without loss of time.— R. D. 
Fancy Dahlias. 
When turning over recently the pages of the Florist for 
1849 (vol. ii), I lighted on a report of a meeting of the 
Royal South London Floricultural Society, which took 
place on September 12th in that year, and in the list 
of the best fancy Dahlias shown on that occasion I find 
“Empereur de Maroc, dark maroon, tipped with 
white.” I have a lively recollection of this charming 
variety. We used to grow it in the garden where I 
gained my first experience of Dahlias, and it made a 
charming border variety. It was of dwarf growth, 
very free, and came perfectly true when grown in poor 
soil. When grown in a rich one, it produced a maroon 
self rather than tipped flowers. It always appeared in 
exhibition stands at that time. 
I have examined some Dahlia lists of 1845, and the 
only fancy variety I find named is Oakley’s Surprise. 
I had heard of this flower by reputation, but I do not 
think I ever saw it. By 1849 there were probably fifty 
varieties ; and a list of the best twenty-four does not 
contain Oakley’s Surprise, so it had, no doubt, given 
place to other varieties out of the twenty-four. Fifteen 
or sixteen at least were of foreign introduction, and 
seventeen were tipped. In those days, as in ours, the 
favourite, and by far the most effective flowers were the 
tipped varieties. Even in those days the fault of the 
fancy varieties, as compared with the seifs, was that 
they were inconstant, either in marking, in becoming 
self coloured or partly self coloured, or want of 
fulness in the centre. Since then great improve¬ 
ments have been made in the fancy varieties ; they are 
large, full, symmetrical, and much more constant, and 
they quite rank in point of quality with the show 
varieties. Scarcely a new variety now comes from the 
Continent. One of the most successful raisers was the 
late Mr. John Keynes, who raised some very fine 
varieties, and his successors are still engaged in the 
same work. Some varieties are tipped and not striped, 
like Fanny Sturt, Miss Browning, Mrs. Browning, 
Mrs. N. Halls, Mrs. Saunders, Peacock, etc. ; and 
some are striped—in fact, the large majority are striped 
flowers, such as Duchess of Albany, Eric Fisher, Flora 
Wyatt, Frank Pearce, George Barnes, Miss Lily Large, 
Pelican, Prince Henry, Rev. J. B. M. Camm, &c. 
A very few are both striped and tipped, one of the 
most conspicuous being Gaiety. 
The origin of the fancy Dahlias is attributed to 
Count Lelieur, of France. He raised a great many 
varieties from single flowers, and got semi-double 
striped and tipped varieties ; by working upon these, 
the fancy Dahlia was eventually produced, and it must 
be admitted that they are among the most attractive 
varieties grown.— R. D. 
Cinerarias. 
Years ago the Cineraria, like the Cyclamen, was 
regarded as a spring-flowering plant, to be in bloom for 
the decoration of plant houses in March and April. 
Now we have it in flower in the autumn and winter, 
and by means of successional plants until early summer. 
When Cinerarias were named and increased by suckers 
thrown up from the base of the flowering stem after it 
had been cut down, it was not until the end of the 
summer that these suckers were strong enough to be 
made into cuttings, it is therefore obvious that plants 
so obtained would not be had in bloom very early the 
following year. Now, since named Cinerarias have 
become a thing of the past, plants are raised from seed, 
and according to the time when the latter is sown so 
the plants can be had in bloom. Therefore it is that 
we see Cinerarias in flower all through the autumn and 
winter, according to the treatment they receive. 
Plants have made rapid growth of late ; the best 
place for them is in a frame near the glass, and they 
should have plenty of air on all favourable occasions. 
Cinerarias do well in a frame much better than in a 
house with other plants, and when they are some way 
from the glass. I should prefer to keep them all the 
winter in a frame, with a 3-in. hot-water pipe in it just 
to keep out frost; but until fire is put on, which should 
not be done until absolutely required, mats should 
be in readiness to protect them from a sudden attack 
of frost at any time. The Cineraria soon shows the 
effects of frost; at the same time, it is not so harmful 
to the plants as is generally supposed, if due precautions 
are taken. I once had a frame of Cinerarias affected 
by frost, through a very unexpected and sudden change 
during the night. In the morning the leaves hung 
down in a very melancholy fashion. The frame was at 
once covered up closely with mats, to keep any sunshine 
and light from the plants, and in two or three days 
they had recovered, not, however, without showing 
signs of the attack, though they soon recovered, but in 
this case prevention is far better than cure. 
During November protection from cold blustering 
winds is very necessary ; therefore air should be given 
from the side opposite to that from which the wind is 
blowing. Occasional fumigations will be necessary to 
keep the plants clear of green-fly. As the earliest throw 
up their flowering stems, they should be taken into the 
greenhouse. In growing Cinerarias during the autumn 
and winter, a cold, damp, confined atmosphere should 
be avoided. I have known such a condition to cause 
the plants to lose all their bottom leaves—a most un¬ 
desirable result. A cool dry bottom and gentle fire-heat 
when necessary, air being freely admitted at the same 
time, will keep the plants healthy and in a good growing 
condition.— E. D. 
Carnation Notes. 
However much I may regard Mr. Rowan’s considerate 
views and expressions with reference to my statements 
under this heading, I was not unmindful when writing 
them of the advance that has been made in every 
branch, not only of floriculture but of horticulture 
generally. But the primary object I had in discoursing 
upon the subject was that the period to which I referred 
was pregnant with good things in Carnations, Picotees, 
and Pinks, and which were more generally grown by 
the amateur classes. Why such was the case I have, I 
think, amply explained, and in contrast with your 
able correspondent’s somewhat sarcastic insinuations I 
unhesitatingly reiterate my already given assertions, 
having spoken only of those things that I have known, 
handled, and tested ; and I opine that I should be a 
sorry cur not to eulogise, and do ample justice to scores 
of able men I have personally known, and who 
devoted long lives to the cause of floriculture, but who 
have long since been numbered with the past. 
I, too, like your valued correspondent, perhaps could 
give interesting data with regard to the doings of our 
departed friends, having at all times and upon all 
occasions mixed with them at their floral gatherings 
and social repasts. It is pleasing to my mind to go 
back to the time when my old friend Mr. John Dickson 
offered two 5-guinea cups—one for Carnations and one 
for white-ground Picotees—about forty-five years ago ; 
and to insinuate that blooms of exquisite contour and 
fine finish in their respective markings of colour were 
not in all respects fully equal to very many of our more 
modern productions, would, in my opinion, be doing a 
great injustice to very many worthy men, the fruits of 
whose labours we at the present time enjoy. I most em¬ 
phatically repudiate all illusionary ideas and distant 
views upon the subject, and I think that I am as well 
satisfied with facts as stated as I am that Cockscombs 
were grown and exhibited upwards of fifty years ago 
measuring from 22 ins. to 2 ft., the sides of the in¬ 
florescence touching the rims of the pot in which they 
were grown .—Man of Kent. 
-->I<—- 
DEUTZIA GRACILIS. 
This is a universal favourite among spring-flowering 
plants ; it is of easy cultivation, and is alike valuable 
for the decoration of the conservatory, rooms, or for 
cutting purposes, and now the season has arrived for 
potting up such subjects as have been placed out 
during the summer months—to minimise the labour 
of watering so many pot plants, and likewise to make 
more robust growth—the above plant will form one of 
the number in most gardens. The Deutzia gracilis is 
very often harshly treated after it has given us its 
graceful inflorescence, though it most often happens 
that it is more by force of circumstances than wilful 
mismanagement on the part of the gardener. What I 
allude to is this : after flowering, the plants do not 
receive that consideration which is absolutely necessary 
to build them up for another season’s display. We 
often see them turned outdoors in company with the 
Dutch bulbs that have done their duty, where biting 
winds and frost cripple the young tender growths ; but, 
as I say, it frequently happens because room is scarce, 
as the claims on most glass structures greatly exceed 
the convenience for production. 
To do the Deutzia justice after flowering it should 
be pruned a little into shape by shortening any long, 
straggling shoots, giving less water for a week or two, 
though not allowing them to get so dry as to lose their 
foliage ; turn them out of their pots, and if it is not 
desirable to put them in larger ones, carefully reduce 
the ball so that they can be potted in the same size. 
Drain the pots well with a few crocks, I say advisedly, 
because some might infer that it was desirable to nearly 
half fill the pot with crocks, which would lessen the 
space for feeding material for the roots in the shape of 
soil, which should be composed of two-thirds of good 
loam, the remaining part being made up of old mush¬ 
room-bed manure and leaf-soil with a good dash of 
coarse sand. Pot the plants firmly, and when completed 
put them in a vinery or Peach house at work, and water 
them sparingly until the roots and top growth are on 
the move ; do not allow them to remain too long in 
such quarters and so cause weak growth, but remove them 
to a pit where they can be kept at about 50° and get 
plenty of light. When established, gradually harden 
them off so that they can be stood outdoors towards the 
end of May and be well attended to as regards watering 
during the summer months, and at this season of the 
year reihove them to a cool house, there to await being 
introduced into heat as occasion requires. 
Should it be preferred to plant them out during the 
summer, gradually harden them off after flowering, 
subsequently planting them in good soil in an open 
situation, and well watering them during dry periods as 
requisite. Pot them up at the present time, placing 
them in a cold pit or frame, keeping them close for a 
time to prevent the premature loss of the foliage.— 
George Potts, Jun., Elmside Gardens, Northiam. 
-—>3r<—- 
THE DRESSING OF ROSES. 
The first monthly dinner and conversazione of the 
Horticultural Club, for the session 1889-90, took place 
at the club rooms, Hotel Windsor, Victoria Street, 
Westminster, on the 8th inst., the Rev. W. Wilks 
presiding. The subject for discussion was “ The 
