October 19, 1889. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
107 
18 ins. above the general level, and to separate the 
border from the cold subsoil by a layer of lime concrete. 
To provide a layer of drainage materials or of concrete 
will undoubtedly add to the cost. But I would submit 
that one of these provisions would be made by the 
experienced cultivator in forming a border for trees 
under glass when the soil is wet and cold. Then why 
not make a similar provision for trees in the open which 
are assuredly less favourably placed ? Referring briefly 
to the 
Formation of the Borders, 
I would say that a good strong loam is the most suitable 
for Peaches and Nectarines. But there are comparatively 
few gardens In which they will not thrive without any 
additions being made to the staple. Here it may he 
necessary to consolidate a light sandy soil, by a liberal 
addition of loam brought in from the outside, or a 
moderate quantity of well-pulverised clay. Then the 
staple may be so heavy and tenacious as to render a 
liberal dressing of some light material desirable. To 
break up the border to a depth of 2 ft. or so will be ad¬ 
visable, but this must be done a sufficient length of time to 
enable the soil to settle down before the trees are planted. 
It is, indeed, a good practice to trench over the border 
in the winter, then crop it during the summer, and 
plant the trees in the autumn following. Not a scrap 
of manure should be added to the border when prepared. 
I know that we are told in the books and elsewhere 
that as the trees will in all probability occupy the same 
positions for many years, the borders must have fer¬ 
tilising matters added to them when under preparation. 
This mischievous teaching is not modern, and has 
much to answer for. Planted in a rich border the trees 
grow with excessive luxuriance, the knife is freely used 
in the removal of fat shoots and gumming, and a whole 
train of evils follow as a matter of course. To abolish 
the use of manure in the formation of the border 
will be a great gain, as we shall then obtain a 
firmer and more satisfactory growth from the 
first. Let it not be understood that I am advo¬ 
cating a starving system of culture. So far from this 
being the case I would suggest that when the trees 
have commenced to bear, and not until then, they 
should have whatever assistance from fertilising matters 
that may be necessary, for to obtain first-class fruit from 
trees that are not in a vigorous condition is impossible. 
Pruning and Training. 
Passing on to a reference to the trees, I would submit 
as the most suitable those that are in a moderately 
vigorous state and have undergone some amount of 
training in the nursery. I would also give a preference 
to trees on the mussel stock, and showing but few signs 
of the knife. In pruning the trees during the first two 
or three years, a course intermediate between that 
generally adopted by the past generation of cultivators 
and that which now obtains will give the best results. 
The older growers cut the leading branches the first 
season back to about one-third of their length, and in 
subsequent seasons pruned severely. By this means 
they obtained'trees well furnished from the base, but 
the work of tilling the wall space was slow, and the 
production of fat shoots gave much trouble. The 
cultivator of the present day contents himself the first 
and several subsequent years with merely taking 
off the tops of the leading shoots. Under this course 
of procedure large wall spaces are quickly covered, but 
in the majority of cases the trees are indifferently 
furnished with bearing wood in the centre of the trees. 
From the first, overcrowding of the growth must be 
avoided, as it is only by allowing each shoot sufficient 
space for the full development of the leaves that strong 
well-ripened wood can be obtained. Further, all the 
shoots that will not be required should be removed at 
a comparatively early period of the summer, the pre¬ 
caution being taken to proceed gradually with the work 
that the trees may not he subjected to any material 
check. At the commencement of the disbudding the 
cultivator must determine what shoots will be required 
for laying in, and having selected those occupying 
suitable positions, must so shape his course that no 
shoots beyond what are absolutely necessary are laid in. 
To lay in two or three times as many shoots as are 
required, in case they may be wanted, as is frequently 
done, is one of the several hindrances to Peach culture, 
and the practice cannot be too strongly condemned. 
The summer disbudding should indeed be so carried 
out that the winter pruning shall consist chiefly in 
cutting away the shoots that have borne fruit, and 
shortening those of the previous season. 
To discuss the relative merits of varieties would be 
interesting, but to do so would be to go beyond the 
cope of my paper. But as having a direct bearing 
upon the question under consideration, I would urge 
the more extended culture of the excellent early Peaches 
and Nectarines raised at Sawbridgeworth, and the fine 
early Peaches received from America, more especially 
on soils and in districts not particularly favourable to 
these fruits. Ripening their fruit in the second half of 
July and at the beginning of August, they complete 
their growth early, and plenty of time is afforded the 
wood to attain full maturity. They are also of service 
in greatly prolonging the season, a point of no small 
importance in gardens of all classes. Concurrently 
with an extension of the culture of the early sorts, there 
should be a reduction in the space devoted to the late 
sorts, for under the most favourable conditions only are 
they even moderately good. There is only one other 
point to which I would direct attention, and that is 
Root Pruning. 
This phase of Peach culture seldom receives the atten¬ 
tion its importance demands. We see in all directions 
trees producing fat wood, and we see also cultivators en¬ 
deavouring to check the production of wood of this 
description by cutting away the strong shoots at their 
base. If it is necessary to check an undue luxuriance 
of growth, the roots must have attention, and they may 
be simply shortened, or the trees be lifted and then 
have the roots shortened according to the condition of 
the trees. When they have occupied the same position 
several years without being disturbed at the root, it is 
necessary to proceed cautiously with repressive 
measures ; but in all cases it is essential to shorten any 
strong roots that may have struck down into the sub¬ 
soil, for in no small degree do they promote the 
production of soft unripened wood. It is indeed 
necessary to keep the wood near the surface, for to have 
them within the influence of the sun and air is a prime 
factor in the production of an abundant supply of 
richly-flavoured fruit. 
AMERICAN NOTES. 
Small Places. —Americans do not take to gardening 
as a profession. As a class they are few in number, 
and none to my thinking are thorough gardeners, as 
Englishmen understand that term. American repre¬ 
sentatives of horticulture are mostly in business as 
nurserymen or florists, and most of them are specialists, 
either in Roses, Carnations, Violets, Chrysanthemums, 
or bulb forcing, which lines, by concentrated application, 
are made to pay. Such places can never be schools for 
gardeners such as the nurseries of England are. The 
men are generally paid living wages, and consequently 
lose all ambition. Speaking truthfully, there can be no 
gardeners, except who go into business for themselves. 
In a measure the same may be said of private places. 
I am thoroughly discouraged with attempting to 
inspire the boys and young men I have had under me ; 
and when I look back and recognise but a solitary 
success I am surprised even at that. It seems to me 
that the only desire of youths on probation is to rise 
and rise in wages until they reach labouring men’s 
pay ; they never think of travelling, but will just 
settle down to a sort of mechanical routine which 
brings pay day round. 
It is above all things necessary that an English 
gardener should become acclimated. He has to learn 
that in a less roundabout way he can succeed with 
many plants in the open air in summer, which he 
would have grown in a greenhouse or in frames at home, 
and in winter he will need to give protection to many 
things he had been accustomed to consider hardy. In 
addition to pot plants for conservatory, hall, or piazza 
decoration, he will be required to grow a large quantity 
of cut flowers for the house during winter. 
I have in mind a small place such as I fill myself; 
seven or eight men are employed as labourers, all the 
important work falling upon me. A specialty is 
made here of hardy herbaceous and alpine plants. 
Besides propagating and raising from seed quite a 
number of new and distinct species and varieties every 
year, I have to keep up a full line of popular flowers in 
quantity for special displays. These include the best 
Columbines, Canterbury Bells, Foxgloves, Hollyhocks, 
Sweet Williams, Delphiniums, Poppies, Polyanthus, 
Primroses, and Auriculas. All of the above and others, 
which naturally would retain their foliage during 
winter, as most perennials do, need protection, which we 
give by placing round the beds a few boards, and filling 
with loose Oak leaves. The boards keep the leaves 
from blowing away. 
We have also to store away in pots where they can 
be kept just above or about freezing point, several 
kinds of plants to be brought along for piazza decora¬ 
tion. These are Canterbury Bells, Foxgloves, Spirsea 
palmata, Astilbe japonica, Deutzias, hybrid perpetual 
Roses, Ghent Azaleas, Cypripedium acaule and C. 
spectabile, Ajuga Genevensis, and probably others. I 
may here note that in order to have the Japanese 
Anemones (which are here pot plants, although hardy 
in some sections) in bloom early enough to forerun the 
Chrysanthemums, we have to pot up and start in 
frames in the latter part of March. These same 
Anemones are now (Sept. 24th) at their best; they 
make handsome pot plants. 
While on the subject of hardy plants, I can answer 
a few questions of interest and importance to young 
gardeners who contemplate coming, or have a desire to 
come, to America. This country is overrun with 
English gardeners, many of whom are quite second- 
rate. Good gardeners, however, who have a knowledge 
of hardy plants, who know when they have the care of 
anything rare and good, who propagate fully and 
interest themselves by saving seed of the best species 
and varieties, and who plant judiciously for proper 
effect, both for time and place, need not want a 
situation long. 
The greenhouse work consists of raising plants for 
bedding, hall and piazza decoration in summer, and 
conservatory decoration in winter. In both the above 
instances well-known plants are used, as also in raising 
or growing a large quantity of cut flowers. These are 
Roses, Carnations, Violets, Heliotrope, Mignonette, 
Coreopsis Drummondi, Roman Hyacinths, Lily of the 
Valley, Lilac, Bouvardia, Primroses, Myosotis, Freesias, 
and Narcissus.— T. D. Hatfield, TVellcsley, Mass., 
U. S. A. 
— -- 
Hardening Miscellany. 
-Ci,- 
A Singular Brussels Sprout. 
We are in receipt of a curious-looking specimen of 
what seems to be intermediate between the Savoy and 
the Brussels Sprout. The sender, Mr. John Downie, 
of Edinburgh, remarks that a specimen occurred among 
a lot of Brussels Sprouts last year, like a Cabbage, but 
quite yellow. This was cooked, and it proved quite 
delicious. The old stump left in the ground then 
threw out a shoot and flowered. The seed was collected 
and sown, with the result of specimens like that sent 
us. Our correspondent says the central head is like a 
Cabbage, but as the Savoy is the next of kin to the 
Brussels Sprout, we prefer comparing it to a Savoy. 
The head is quite yellow, with the central portion 
white, and here comes in the curiosity, which, if per¬ 
manent, would constitute a well-marked variety. Of 
its hardiness we cannot speak, but think there can be 
little doubt about the quality. Some distance below 
the main head axillary long-stalked sprouts are de¬ 
veloped, and more resemble Savoys in miniature than 
Brussels Sprouts as generally recognised. These also 
are yellow, and would constitute a good useful vegetable. 
The sport shows unmistakeably the affinity between 
the Sprout and the Savoy. 
Autumn Foliage for Decorative Purposes. 
The lovely tints of autumn foliage this season are 
unusually bright, and when used with proper discretion, 
how fine they are for decorative purposes ! That 
energetic firm—namely, Messrs. Perkins & Sons, of 
Coventry, are never backward in introducing anything 
worthy of the decorator’s art. Some of their bouquet 
sprays, offered for sale and on view in the Central 
Arcade of the Birmingham Market Hall, are works of 
art. I noticed bright-coloured leaves and pieces of 
Ampelopsis Veitchii, intermixed with Maidenkair 
Fern and others, made into becoming sprays with 
grand effect, thus showing that even common things 
can with good taste be used to great advantage.— 
Rusticus. 
Chrysanthemum uliginosum as a Pot 
Plant. 
Under ordinary circumstances, this herbaceous subject 
varies from 4 ft. to 6 ft. in height, according to the 
nature of the season and the soil in which it is grown. 
The favourite Chrysanthemum indicum may often he 
seen from 6 ft. to 10 ft. in height, grown in pots; but 
a hardy subject like that under notice would be ridi¬ 
culed as a pot plant when grown in the usual way. A 
good idea has been hit upon by Mr. A. Dean, of Bedfont, 
and which, if not new as regards other species, has 
probably been little, if ever, used in the case of this 
one. The plan is to peg down the long stems some 
time previous to the appearance of flower buds, and 
