218 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
December 7, 1889. 
plant may be propagated in quantity, and the present 
is a good time to pull a few plants to pieces. Pot 
them into as small pots as possible, and plunge the pots 
when filled into a good sharp bottom heat, keeping 
them close for a few weeks, when they soon become 
filled with roots, and may be well out of the way before 
the spring propagating commences. 
Another and totally different class of plants from the 
above will require attention now, in some cases 
through being overgrown, and in others in consequence 
of their not being plentiful. I refer to 
Nepenthes, or Pitcher Plants. 
These will have made what growth they can for this 
season, and some of the species may be heavily laden 
with pitchers. The kinds most in demand should have 
immediate attention, as they generally make the finest 
pitchers from young and healthy plants, and then it is 
a pleasure to see them growing. Oftener than not we 
see them in a dwindling and miserable condition—a 
state of things that good cultivators should try to 
avoid ; far better be wdthout them than see them in a 
state of semi-starvation. 
For increasing the stock, select healthy shoots, 
cutting these again into lengths of from two to three 
eyes, according to the species, and if the top part of 
the shoot is not too soft it may be used as well, as it 
often makes the best plant. The shoots should be cut 
clean through just below a leaf, not leaving any jagged 
edges, but do not cut the leaf away at any point of the 
shoot. These cuttings when prepared should be 
immediately put into well-drained pots, using a compost 
of good sound peat and sphagnum moss well mixed 
together. Insert the cutting in the centre of the pot, 
and secure the leaves by tying them upright to a stake, 
which should have been placed in the pot before the 
crocks were put in ; this is by far the best plan with 
these kind of cuttings. By so doing the drainage does 
not get disturbed by forcing the stake through it after 
the cutting has been put in, as is often the case. 
"When the leaves have been neatly tied up, the pots 
require to be plunged to their full depth in a very brisk 
bottom-heat, and in a very close case, where they will 
have to remain for several weeks before they show 
signs of rooting. 
If the plunging material, which should be coco-nut 
fibre refuse, is in a moist and pliable condition, and the 
peat and sphagnum moss, into which the cuttings have 
been potted, has been in the same condition—just nice 
and moist—no water will be required to be given to the 
cuttings for a few days, and at no time should they 
have water without the soil shows signs of becoming 
dry ; the heat and moisture of the case should be 
sufficient for them. The top of the cases should be 
lifted up every day to allow superabundant moisture to 
escape, being very careful that they are closed again 
before the foliage shows any signs of drooping. Keep¬ 
ing the leaves healthy with a good bottom heat is half 
the battle in rooting these plants, which will show 
signs of pushing away a shoot from the stem above the 
leaf, and as soon as this is seen a good idea may he 
formed that they are making root at the same time, the 
bottom-heat encouraging the root action. By early 
spring these cuttings should be well rooted and fit for 
potting on into larger pots, at the same time keeping 
them in a good heat to encourage both root-action and 
top-growth ; sponging the foliage occasionally to keep 
them free from thrips. Many prefer to grow them in 
baskets, which is preferable, as they show the pitchers 
better, but if rooted successfully any plan may be 
adopted to suit the exigencies of the place. Bottom- 
heat and moisture, with well-matured shoots properly 
cut into lengths, are the essential requisites to increase 
the stock of Nepenthes. 
It will be found that where stock is required of 
Cyperus alternifolitts, 
and its variegated form, that the present is a good 
time to pull the plants apart, shaking the soil well 
away from the roots before doing so, and assisting the 
division of the root-stock by the aid of a good knife, 
where they do not readily come apart. Potted into 
convenient sized pots, and plunged into bottom-heat 
they soon re-establish themselves and make good 
plants by spring. Strong whorls of foliage that it may 
be necessary to cut off should be laid upon the surface 
of the coco-fibre, where they will readily start away a 
host of young plants from the axils of the leaves, 
which may be potted up either in the mass as they 
are, or pulled apart to multiply the stock. Where seed 
cannot be obtained, I find it a good time to utilise the 
propagating house for the division of 
Asparagus plumosus 
and its variety, nanus. These, if all the soil is shaken 
clean away from them, may be readily divided by the 
aid of a sharp knife, taking care to have a growing 
point to each part cut off, also a portion of root, be it ever 
so small. These divisions should be potted into small 
pots, using sandy loam, and should be plunged into a 
gentle bottom-heat, when the roots will soon get to 
work : but care must be exercised that too much 
water is not given before the root-action begins to move 
freely, or the result will be that rot will take place 
instead of a healthy root action. This plan need only 
be adopted where seed is not obtainable, for seedlings 
make by far the best plants, but where seed is not 
readily obtainable, recourse must he had to division of 
the root-stock. — Vcrcbx. 
-- 
ADIANTUM CUNEATUM AND 
ITS FORMS. 
Of the numerous species of Adiantum now in culti¬ 
vation, none are more popular or more widely grown. 
Wherever large quantities are required for decorative 
purposes, whether as plants or in 'the cut state, A. 
cuneatum is invariably called into requisition. Other 
species have their qualities, and some are extremely 
ornamental, perhaps more so than A. cuneatum, but 
they either require more heat or more care in their 
cultivation, or are otherwise unsuitable for the 
purpose here mentioned. Some of the varieties are 
very curious, others very graceful, and some of them 
are useful for particular purposes ; but none of them 
are so generally useful as the type itself. Many of 
them, however, are to be recommended for the sake of 
variety, while the beauty of some of them for pot-work 
cannot be denied. 
A. cuneatum. —The fronds of the type are triangular, 
three or four times pinnate, with brownish black 
petioles. The wedge-shaped pinnules are of medium 
size, and more or less deeply cut along the upper edge. 
The sori are placed around the shallow notches. It is 
a native of Brazil. 
A. C. iemulum. —The late Mr. Moore described this 
as a distinct species. It also comes from Brazil, and 
has ovate, long, and regularly tapering fronds, with 
the lower pinme of only moderate length. The terminal 
pinnule of every branch of the frond is broadly wedge- 
shaped and deeply lobed, while all the lateral ones 
are very oblique, rhomboid and lobed. It is highly 
suitable for basket work on account of the great length 
and drooping character of its fronds. 
A. c. Bourxei. —The fronds of this variety are 
triangular, with densely arranged pinnules, something 
in the way of A. c. Pacottii, but not so neat in 
appearance. 
A. c. compactum. —The fronds here are short, 
triangular, and short-stalked, with broadly wedge- 
shaped pinnules in the way of A. c. Pacottii but 
smaller. 
A. c. deflexum. —Fronds ovate, of large size, with 
the lower pinnre ascending. The pinnules are broadly 
cuneate, lobed, and crenate at the upper end, and 
deflexed. On account of this last character it is said 
to be a hybrid between A. Bausei and A. cuneatum. 
A. c. dissectum. — Frond triangular, on longish stipes, 
three times pinnate. The ultimate divisions are broadly 
wedge-shaped, frequently deeply cut and beautifully 
crenate, with small but prominent sori in the shallow 
notches. 
A. c. elegans. —The pinnules of this variety are 
wedge-shaped, but rather thinly arranged, giving the 
plant an elegant appearance. The fronds are triangular, 
about 9 ins. long and as broad. 
A. c. gracillimum. —This is at once the most 
graceful and elegant variety of the species, and is 
always much admired as a pot plant, but unfortunately 
it does not stand up well in a cut state. The fronds 
are very broadly triangular when well grown, and four 
times pinnate. The terminal pinnule of each division 
is the larger, but all are very small, wedge-shaped, 
and the side ones are obliquely bifid ; they are delicate 
in texture and the fronds of a light green. The variety 
could be much more grown if the fronds had been more 
durable, but there is not the slightest difficulty in 
growing it well. 
A. c. grandiceps. —The varietal name here refers to 
the large tassel or heavy crest of branches or pinnae at 
the apex of the frond, which is narrowly ovate in 
outline on average specimens. The pinnae are each 
terminated by a large and deeply-cut, wedge-shaped 
pinnule, or sometimes a small tassel, while all the side 
ones are very much reduced in size. The heavy crest 
at the apex gives the frond a drooping character when 
large and well grown, and is elegant on this account, 
meriting extended cultivation. 
A. c. Lawsonianum. —The fronds of this distinct 
and pretty Fern are short and very broadly Triangular, 
with the pinna rather widely separated, giving the 
plant an airy and graceful appearance. The pinnules 
are small, wedge-shaped, bifil, merely notched or 
nearly entire, seldom trifid. 
A. c. Legrandi. —The short triangular fronds, three 
or four times pinnate, with small wedge-shaped or 
obovate, dark green, slightly divided and densely- 
arranged pinnules may serve to distinguish this 
variety. • 
A. c. mundulum. —This is equally dwarf as the 
last, with sharp triangular fronds, and narrowly wedge- 
shaped, slightly divided, often nearly entire, dark 
green pinnules, with large sori. The variety is 
compact in habit, and may be compared to A. c. 
Lawsonianum, but has much longer and proportion¬ 
ately narrower pinnules. 
A. c. Pacottii. —Amongst the smaller kinds this is 
certainly one of the most popular and useful as pot 
plants or in a cut state, but is more especially suitable 
for button-hole work. The small triangular fronds are 
rendered very neat and compact owing to the extent to 
which the broadly wedge-shaped, deeply divided 
pinnules overlap one another. 
A. c. PiOENBeckii.— Here the triangular fronds 
attain a large size on longish stipes. The lower pinme 
are also of great length, and the medium-sized pinnules 
are rather thinly arranged, and somewhat intermediate 
between A. cuneatum and A. c. semulum in form. 
A. c. strictum.— The fronds of this variety are 
narrow and ovate, with the lower pinnae ascending, 
and the mid-rib and all the smaller divisions are very 
flexuous. The erect habit of the plant, however, bears 
a strong resemblance to that of A. c. deflexum. 
A. c. versaillense.— This is one of the most 
distinct of the group, and may be compared to A. c. 
grandiceps, inasmuch as the fronds are heavily crested, 
but here they are much branched, often to the very 
base, and each division bears a separate crest. The 
plant is dwarf, compact, and well furnished with 
broadly wedge-shaped and much divided or lobed 
pinnules. It was raised by M. Albert Truffaut, of 
Versailles, in France. 
The eight most distinct and useful forms are A. 
cuneatum, A. c. aimulum, A. c. gracillimum, A. c. 
grandiceps, A. c, Lawsonianum, A. c. mundulum, A. 
c. Pacottii, and A. versaillense, all of which should be 
included in a good collection. 
--- 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
Chinese Primulas. 
If grown in the window of a dwelling-room where a fire 
is kept burning, the quantity of flowers that plants of 
the Chinese Primula will produce is simply astonishing. 
The dry atmosphere is more suitable to it during the 
winter months than the generally damp and stagnant 
atmosphere of a greenhouse. In its native home it 
grows in the dry crevices of limestone rocks, and 
although high-class cultivation has effected wonderful 
changes in the development of both foliage and flowers, 
yet the great enemy of both during the winter months 
is damp. Therefore, watering must be done with care, 
giving just sufficient to maintain free and healthy 
growth; and under the genial conditions just men¬ 
tioned, the Chinese Primula will flower beautifully and 
continuously for two or three months. The requisites 
to be borne in mind are that the plants be well exposed 
to light in a room where a fire is kept burning at least 
during frosty or cold weather, and that the soil be kept 
constantly moist, but not soaking wet nor dust dry, 
otherwise the roots will perish. 
Show* and Fancy Pelargoniums. 
Plants that were dried off, headed back, re-started, and 
re-potted in the proper season, should now ba growing 
away freely, and in order to keep them strong and 
healthy, with firm leathery leaves and short-jointed 
wood, they should be well exposed to light, even if it 
be necessary to raise them on inverted pots. The 
process of training should now be commenced in the 
case of those intended for specimens. The shoots are 
most pliable when young, and by the gradual tying 
out of them as they grow, others will be induced to 
push, so as to fill up the centre of the plant. Those 
intended for flowering in June should have the tips 
pinched out towards the end of the present month. 
