December 14, 1889. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
229 
ON CROPPING A KITCHEN 
GARDEN.* 
Perhaps no more important matter could engage the 
attention of the gardener than a continuous supply of 
vegetables for his employer’s table ; whilst flowers and 
even fruits may be dispensed with. Vegetables form 
part of what may be well called the staff of life, and 
may, therefore, be considered indispensable. The cul¬ 
tivation of vegetables without forcing makes the matter 
a popular one, and as such deserving the earnest 
attention of all who look upon the good and useful 
work which may be performed in the kitchen garden. 
To ensure a continual supply is no small responsibility 
on the part of any gardener where the demand is large 
and convenience small ; but this is often the case. 
His first consideration should be what he had best do 
with the space at command to secure a full supply of 
the best vegetables ; the seeds should be bought and 
the arrangement of the crops planned out to the best 
advantage twelve months in advance. For convenience 
I will treat the subject under two headings—first, the 
cultivation, and secondly, the vegetables in season. 
Globe Artichokes require to have the ground well- 
manured and deeply dug. Plant the suckers in rows 
from 3 ft. to 4 ft. each way in April, or as soon as the 
suckers have attained a height from 9 ins. to 12 ins. 
Should the weather be very dry give a mulching of 
manure and a watering occasionally. Before the 
advent of frost put some dry litter round the plants for 
protection. Artichokes can be raised from seed, but it 
is preferable to increase by suckers. 
Jerusalem Artichokes will grow almost anywhere, 
but to cultivate them well a good deep loamy soil, not 
too exposed to strong winds, is necessary. Prepare the 
ground in autumn by trenching in a good coat of 
manure, for they make immense growth in a short 
time, and require something to feed upon. Plant in 
February or March in rows 3 ft. apart, the sets 1 ft. 
apart and 6 ins. deep. As soon as they have grown 
high enough, give the bed a hoeing, and draw a little 
earth to the stems. Take up a portion in November, 
and store away in case of sharp frost, leaving the rest 
in the ground until wanted. 
Asparagus. —To grow this well, a rich sandy soil is 
required, from 2 ft. to 3 ft. deep, in a sunny situation, 
hut not too exposed to strong winds, as the stems are 
liable to be broken, thus injuring the crowns. Trench 
the ground from 2 ft. to 3 ft. deep, working in a good 
dressing of manure. Mark out the ground in 5*ft. beds, 
leaving 2-ft. alleys between. The centre of the bed 
should”be raised 1 ft. higher than the alleys. The beds 
will take five rows of plants, putting the first in the 
centre, and two on either side, 1 ft. asunder, with a 
space of 15 ins. between the plants. Plant in May, 
or seed may be sown in April in drills, and thinned 
out when large enough, leaving the strongest in the 
beds. Clear away the stems in autumn, and give a 
dressing of manure. A dressing of salt in early spring 
will be found beneficial. 
Broad Beans. —A sowing may be made in November 
for the first crop. Sow the main crop in February and 
March, and in April for a succession. They thrive best 
on a stiff loamy soil, and should be sown in rows 3 ft. 
apart, leaving a space of 4 ins. between the plants. 
When they have set a good crop, the points should be 
picked out just above the flowers, and this will assist 
the pods to swell. 
Dwarf Beans. —Sow on a warm border at the end 
of April, and in May for the main crop. Make another 
sowincr in June for succession. Sow the seed in drills 
O 
from 2 ft. to 3 ft. apart, and thin the plants out to 
4 ins. When high enough, a little earth should be 
drawn to them, mulching with manure in dry weather, 
and giving water when required, or the flowers will not 
set. 
Runner Beans. —Sow in rows, 6 ft. apart, early in 
May, again in June, on well-manured ground; thin 
out and stake before they get entangled. Draw a 
little earth to the plants, and water freely with manure- 
water in dry weather. In August and September, the 
supply may be more than is required for present use ; 
the surplus should be picked when dry and prepared 
for use by cutting in strips. Then get a pickling crock 
and put in a half-inch layer of Beans, covering them 
with dry salt, then another layer of salt, and so 
continue to preserve all spare pods. Preserved in this 
way, they keep fresh for a long time, and give a good 
supply in winter. Before cooking they require soaking 
in water for twelve hours. 
*A prize essay on “The best sjstem of cropping a kitchen 
garden to secure a continuous supply of vegetables, when no 
forcing is practised.” Hy Mr. T. Bones, Tower House Gardens, 
Chiswick. 
Beet.—S ow in April in drills 1 ft. apart, on a rich 
sandy soil, deeply dug or trenched early in autumn, 
adding the manure at the same time. As soon as the 
plants are large enough thin out from 9 ins. to 12 ins. 
apart. In autumn, lift carefully and store away in 
sand or ashes till required. 
Broccoli. —Sow in March and April in drills 9 ins. 
apait, plant out when strong enough in rows 2 ft. 
apart on good loamy soil that is of a retentive nature, 
as the plants stand the winter better on stiff than light 
land. As soon as the weather becomes frosty the early 
sorts that are fit for use may be lifted on fine days and 
put under cover for protection ; the floor of a cellar 
will answer for this purpose, or a cold pit, or they may 
be protected with straw. 
Brussels Sprouts. —Sow in drills for early use in 
February in heat, and for the general crop in March 
and April ; plant out when strong enough in rows 2 ft. 
to 3 ft. apait. They require a long growing season, in 
an open position where they can get plenty of air. 
Cab rage. —Sow in the beginning of March and 
April, and again in succession through the summer 
and autumn. For spring use, sow from the middle of 
July to the beginning of August. The Cabbage is a 
gross feeder, and requires to be grown on well-manured 
land. I do not advocate growing the large varieties, 
as they take much longer to grow before they are fit 
for use, and require much more room. Sow the seed 
in drills 6 ins. apart, and plant out in rows 18 ins. 
to 24 ins. apart. Those that were sown in July or 
August should have a coat of artificial manure forked 
into the ground before planting, and in spring this 
will greatly assist in forwarding them. 
Carrots. —Sow in April and May in drills 1 ft. 
apart on light rich sandy soil, and when the plants are 
large enough, hoe the bed and thin out to 6 ins. 
apart. If the soil is thin, it will he advisable to grow 
only the Short Horn kinds. In autumn take up and 
put away in sand or ashes in an open shed or under a 
wall. 
Cauliflower. —Sow in February in boxes or frames 
for early use, and again in March or April for 
succession ; plant out when large enough and the 
weather is favourable, in rows 20 ins. to 24 ins. apart 
on rich soil. Give water when necessary, and in dry 
weather a mulching of manure. The late sorts, such 
as Autumn Giant, will require protection if the weather 
is frosty. Take up the plants that are turning in, and 
store away in the same method advised for Broccoli. 
A sowing may be made in August, and protected in a 
cold frame through the winter for spring planting. 
Cress.— Sow once a fortnight through the summer 
for succession, and American Cress at the end of June 
for winter use. 
Celery.— Sow in March for early use on a slight 
hot-bed or in boxes, and when large enough, prick out 
into frames in rich soil, using plenty of good manure 
for them in which to root. Sow the main crop at the 
end of March or the first week in April, and afterwards 
place out in trenches 4 ft. apart, allowing 6 ins. between 
the plants. Keep a good watch for the maggot, and 
pick them off as soon as they appear. A dusting of 
lime and soot when the plants are damp will check 
these pests. Care should be taken in earthing up the 
plants not to let the soil get into the crowns, as this 
will cause them to decay. It should he placed round 
the plants with the hand, keeping them upright. In 
frosty weather put some'.litter round them for protection. 
Cucumbers.— Sow in April in heat, and grow on till 
strong enough and the weather is favourable. Plant 
out on a sunny border 5 ft. apart in soil prepared for 
them by taking out a harrowload and replacing it with 
maiden loam and stible manure. Protect for a few 
days with hand-lights, afterwards removing them, and 
put litter round the plants to keep the fruit off the 
ground. Give manure water twice a week when in 
bearing. 
Cardoons. —Sow about the middle of April in 
trenches 4 ft. apart in light rich soil, and when large 
enough thin out to 18 ins. The Cardoou is grown in 
much the same way as Celery, only before earthing up 
they require hay-bands to be bound round the leaf¬ 
stalks to keep them clean and blanch them ready for 
use. 
Endive.— Sow in the first week of June in drills, 
and again in July. Plant out in rows 18 ins. apart, 
taking them up in autumn and placing them in cold 
frames for winter use. 
Garlic. —Plant early in March on light soil in drills 
1 ft. apart, and from G ins. to 9 ins. between the sets, 
and cover with 2 ins. of soil. Give occasional hoeings 
to keep down the weeds. After the tops die down the 
roots should be lifted and well dried in the sun, 
afterwards putting them away in a dry shed. 
(To be continued.) 
-—>X-<—- 
POLYGONATUM OFFICINALE. 
There are two forms of species of Solomon’s Seal, 
natives of Britain, very much resembling each other, 
but hy no means common in a wild state, except 
locally. The leaves and flowers are closely similar, 
and would not be readily distinguishable by the casual 
observer. The flowers of P. officinale are constricted— 
that is, narrowed close to the base, as may he seen hy 
reference to our illustration, which shows the natural 
habit of the plant, and a separate bloom about the natural 
size showing its form. The flowers of P. nmltiflornm, 
on the other hand, are narrowed in the mid lie, some¬ 
what longer and more numerously produced in each 
cluster. The stems of this species grow 2 ft. or 3 ft. 
high, whereas P. officinale only grows about 1 ft. high, 
and hears from eight to twelve leaves. It might, 
therefore, be tried for pot work for forcing in winter on 
account of its dwarfness. That most commonly grown 
is, of course, P. multifiorum, because more common 
and because the flowers are more numerous. The 
flowers of P. officinale are solitary, bat fragrant. 
Those of the common one are also fragrant in some 
individuals, and this quality might be more common 
than is suspected, because the odour is most powerful 
at certain stages of their growth, and also at certain 
times of the day. The subject of this note is often 
called P. vulgare. 
-- 
PRIMULA OBOONIOA. 
For the information of Prof. Wilson, I may mention 
that I have suffered quite as intensely from its effects 
as your correspondent, Mr. Bick (p. 171). The secre¬ 
tions could not, in my case, have got beneath the skin, 
as that of my hands and face was sound. Like Mr. 
Bick, I consulted a medical gentleman, but without 
getting much relief. The only way in which I have 
come in contact with the plant is by gathering its 
flower spikes and foliage, and using them for decorative 
purposes. Since I first read of its poisonous nature, I 
have not touched the plants, nor suffered in any way 
from them.— Thomas Coombcr, The Hendrc Gardens, 
Monmouth. _ 
A Suggested Remedy. 
A notice of the poisonous properties of Primula obconica 
having appeared in the current number of The Homoeo¬ 
pathic World, I wrote to the editor (Dr. J. H. Clarke, 
34, Harrington Road, S.W.l on the subject, informing 
him that similar statements had recently been pub¬ 
lished in The Gardening World, and asking whether 
he could suggest a remedy. I have his permission to 
publish his reply, with your kind concurrence, in your 
columns, and I think many gardeners may be glad to 
act on his (following) valuable advice :—“ I should 
think Rhus Tox. 12 would be the best preventive, and 
the best curative when poisoning has taken place. If 
one pilule three times a day were taken for a day or 
two, before handling the plant, its effects would pro¬ 
bably be obviated. If the eczema has actually occurred, 
one pilule should be taken every two hours.” May I 
add that, apart from my long personal experience of Dr. 
Clarke’s skill, my own knowledge of the curative action 
of Rhus Tox. leads me to believe that the above sug¬ 
gestion will be found all that inquirers can desire. 
The drug should, of course, be procured from a first- 
rate homcepathic chemist ; I can strongly recommend 
Mr. W. H. Gill, 40, George Street, Croydon, with whom 
