314 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
January 18, 1890. 
date ; the best varieties of the twelve are Mrs. Langtry, 
pinkish white, very free ; Magenta King, bright pur¬ 
plish rose ; Canariensis, terra cotta, very elegant ; 
Brunette, brick-red and orange, very free and useful in 
a cut state ; Ellen Terry, Mrs. Killock, Monte Carlo, 
and Gus Harris, the two latter being very compact in 
growth, and making excellent pot specimens. 
Tue Discussion. 
After the above paper had been read, a considerable 
number of questions were asked, and replied to by Mr. 
Kipling, concerning the methods he pursued in order to 
get plenty of bloom at mid-winter. He said that 
Chrysanthemums for late work must be kept partly 
shaded in summer to prevent the ripening of the wood, 
otherwise the plants will flower early in spite of the 
cultivator’s efforts to the contrary. If grown in pots 
the latter should be plunged in soil to avoid much 
labour in watering and to keep the roots cool. Should 
no natural shading exist, something temporary should 
be erected. 
Before he commenced exhibiting flowers he never 
used to propagate his Chrysanthemums before March, 
and had plenty of flowers till Christmas. In the case 
of those flowers which he exhibited on the present 
occasion, none of his plants showed buds till the 
beginning of December. This he said in reply to a 
question as to when he should “take the buds.” All 
of the latter were crown buds, or those that were pro¬ 
duced on the sides of the shoots in a natural manner. 
Hone of them were “ terminals,” as this is understood 
amongst growers. 
By lifting in autumn, and planting out in the borders 
of a house, he believed more bloom would be obtained 
than by growing in pots. It was his practice to plant out 
in June. A quantity of the plants were cut back, others 
were not; this being done when the wood was in a 
succulent condition, because if in any way ripe it would 
throw lateral shoots and flower too early. A gentleman 
present recommended that if it was desired to grow 
Chrysanthemums with as little labour as possible they 
should be planted out. Another said that all the new 
Japanese Chrysanthemums were late, and asked whether 
this was not merely the result of getting small slips 
late in the season, and growing them on to a flowering 
stage. 
Mr. Kipling said that one of the Japanese kinds 
marked in the Chrysanthemum catalogue as a mid-season 
variety was one of the best for winter work because it 
naturally flowered late, and could hardly be got in time 
for the November exhibitions. Mr. Holmes asked 
him what he meant by a naturally late-blooming 
variety, and said, further, that the Japanese kinds 
were late because they were struck late, and this seemed 
to be the prevalent opinion. Many of those present 
took part in the discussion, including Mr. R. Ballan- 
tine, Mr. H. Cannell, Mr. A. Dean, Mr. Norman 
Davis, and others. Mr. Holmes proposed and Mr. G. 
Gordon seconded a vote of thanks to Mr. Kipling for 
his paper. 
The chairman then asked if anyone had any¬ 
thing to propose by which the exhibitions of the 
society could in any way be benefited. A gentleman 
present made a statement with regard to railway rates 
and the expense of bringing plants to the exhibitions. 
Mr. TV. Holmes stated that they applied for and 
obtained certain concessions from the railway com¬ 
panies some years ago ; but the committee would 
approach them again to see what could be done in the 
matter, as he believed the former concessions had been 
withdrawn. 
Another gentleman said he should like to see 
some encouragement given to naturally-grown Chry¬ 
santhemums, and naturally-arranged undressed blooms 
at their exhibitions, avith leaves and flower buds. Mr. 
Holmes said that prizes were offered for this sort of 
thing some years ago, but the competition was not 
properly taken up to justify the outlay. He continued 
by saying that it was difficult to say where dressing 
began and where it left off, and that all present would 
possibly agree that it was perfectly legitimate, and 
neither wrong nor immoral to pull out a petal that was 
too long, malformed, or superfluous to the proper form 
of the flower. Mr. H. Cannell also spoke from this point 
of view, and said that people came to their exhibitions 
to see something of a higher standard than they had 
at home. 
Mr. Sanderson said that he knew of a society which 
offered prizes for undressed blooms, and many of the 
exhibitors showed them as they grew, while others dressed 
their flowers, as it afterwards came to his knowledge. 
TVhen arranged in the flower stands, the dressed ones 
of course looked by far the most perfect, and the judges 
awarded them the prizes, notwithstanding the fact that 
the flowers had to a certainty received some artificial 
trimming up. 
Mr. Norman Davis and Mr. George Gordon spoke 
of the number of duplicates of Queen of England, 
Empress of India, and other closely allied sorts of that 
group that were allowed in small stands, and said it 
was a means of detracting from the interest, and parti¬ 
cularly the variety that should exist in a stand, and 
that a greater variety should'be encouraged at exhibi¬ 
tions, even although the blooms of certain other kinds 
were naturally small. Mr. Gordon also went on to say 
that it should be the object of the society to encourage 
taste in the arfangement of groups. As a rule, he said, 
they were too dense and formal, and covered with a 
mass of bloom, such as it was impossible to imitate in 
a conservatory, because the plants would be spoiled in a 
comparatively short time and lose their foliage. He 
should like also to grow the plants more bushy, so that 
the system of massing them at exhibitions might be 
avoided. He condemned also the system of piling the 
p’ants on the top of pots. 
Another gentleman present said he should like to see 
prizes offered in separate classes for such as Japanese, 
incurved, and reflexel Chrysanthemums. Mr. Holmes 
said it was merely a question of finance, and could not 
yet be adopted. 
- »>S< —- 
CHRYSANTHEMUM GOLDEN 
GEM. 
While the subject of late or winter-flowering Chrysan¬ 
themums is under discussion, we take the opportunity 
of referring to Golden Gem. It is a reflexed Japanese 
variety of the decorative class, a type which we venture 
to predict will be more widely cultivated at no distant 
date. They supply a much felt want in the way of 
cut flowers, long after those grown specially for ex¬ 
hibition purposes are over, and the stems cut down. 
The flowers are of medium size for the group to which 
the variety belongs, and when they first expand are of 
a bright yellow. As they get older, however, they 
change to a bronzy crimson, commencing from the 
centre and progressing outwards, at all events in case3 
coming under our notice. The unexpanded buds may 
also be cut off and placed in moist sand, when they 
will gradually open and assume the bright colour 
mentioned. At first the blooms are close, compact, 
and more regularly and neatly reflexed than as they are 
shown in our illustration ; but finally they behave 
much in the same way as those of several other 
Japanese reflexed kinds, by the central florets length¬ 
ening and assuming an ascending or almost erect 
position, as might have been seen at the recent mid¬ 
winter exhibition at the Royal Aquarium. The plant, 
besides being naturally a late-floweriDg subject, is also 
dwarf, and may be grown to perfection in 48 or 32-size 
pots. To get it into flower early it must be grown in 
heat. 
-»> 33 < ~- 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
- 4 >- 
Protecting Half-hardy Plants. 
The rather severe weather which set in about the new 
year has again given place to that of a mild character. 
It may not be out of place to remind those concerned 
that protection during mild weather is harmful rather 
than beneficial, and any plants that were heavily pro¬ 
tected against the recent frost should again be uncovered 
during open weather, to prevent them pushing their 
buds, otherwise the danger will be greater should frost 
again set in. In the case of Roses and similar subjects 
in the open ground, a few evergreen boughs stuck into 
the ground so as to hang over them is all that is 
necessary. These can be removed or replaced in a few 
minutes at will, according to the state of the weather. 
Tea Roses and other choice tender subjects on walls can 
be protected by means of a mat, a piece of tarpaulin, or 
something of that nature during severe frost. They 
can be fastened by means of a few nails and strings to 
facilitate removal or replacement when desired. 
Strawberries. 
Those who have beds or borders of Strawberries can 
greatly increase their fertility by mulching between the 
rows during winter. Good farmyard manure is as good 
as any, provided it has been well made by being 
fermented and turned before it is put on. If a suffi¬ 
cient quantity cannot be afforded to cover the whole 
of the space between the rows, it can be placed near 
the plants themselves. The winter rains will wash the 
manurial properties down about the roots, which even 
now are not dormant, but continue to extend their area 
while the ground is not frozen. Some cultivators prefer 
the use of rank manure, so that when the softer and 
looser particles are washed down about the roots the 
residue will act as a litter to keep the fruit off the 
ground. It is better, however, to mulch during the 
period they are in bloom with clean straw or grass 
obtained from the mowing of the lawns. Heavy soils 
are all the better for being forked over in the spring, so 
as to bury the weeds and loosen the ground after being 
hardened by the winter rains. By digging shallowly 
in the neighbourhood of roots, the latter will not be 
injured in any way. 
Bulbs and Tubers. 
During the winter months Dahlias, Gladioli and such 
things are apt to be forgotten, whether purposely or 
not. Of course, if all is safe, no attention or disturbance 
at all is necessary ; but it is frequently discovered in 
spring to be quite otherwise. Dahlia tubers put away 
in a moist state, or perhaps into a moist place, become 
decayed and rotten, the bad ones spoiling the good, 
causing in this way great loss, which might have been 
avoided by a little timely attention, so as to remove 
the bad ones and dry the rest. The keeping of the 
tubers is generally the greatest difficulty amateurs have 
in the cultivation of Dahlias. After they become quite 
dry in autumn, they should be put in a dry cool place 
away from a fire, otherwise they lose substance, be¬ 
coming dry and shrivelled. All hardy bulbs should by 
this time be planted out, including Hyacinths, Tulips, 
Narcissi, Snowdrops, Crocuses, as well as English and 
Spanish Irises. The corms of Gladioli or any of the 
above mentioned are liable to the attacks of rats and 
mice, which not only feed upon them, but destroy 
large quantities, and carry others away to their retreats. 
It is therefore a good plan during the winter months to 
look over the stores of everything in the way of bulbs, 
tubers, corms, and last but not least, any seeds that 
may be laid away for this year’s work. 
-*>=£<-- 
[ARDENING f|lSCELLA.NY. 
Senecio macroglossis. 
Amongst cool greenhouse climbers the Cape Ivy is a 
very beautiful plant, both as regards its foliage and 
flowers. We have one full in flower now, which at 
this time of the year is very acceptable. Its foliage 
somewhat resembles a small triangular green Ivy leafj 
with a very glossy appearance. Its flower is very 
much like a good yellow Marguerite, and lasts some time 
when cut. It is of easy culture, its main condition 
being plenty of light, air, and cool treatment, and soil 
a good fibrous loam. Although it is very cheap, it is 
not often met with in private collections. The plant 
we have is in a 12-in. pot, and covers a good space of 
the roof of the greenhouse.— A. Gaut. 
.Lionicera Standishii. 
This is now very full of flower with us, and is a sweet 
pretty thing. Being quite hardy and very sweet 
scented, and flowering as it does during the winter 
months, requiring no special treatment, it is quite 
a treasure for cutting, and is sure to please wherever it 
is grown, as it is winter-flowering. It is best planted 
in sheltered positions away from cutting winds, which 
would injure the blossoms very much.— Alfred Gaut, 
The Gardens, Berwick, Shrewsbury. 
Heliconia aureo-striata. 
In general appearance this plant resembles a small 
Musa, but seldom exceeds 1 ft. or.2 ft. in height, 
and is, therefore, amenable to stove culture, even 
where accommodation is not over plentiful. Given 
plenty of heat and moisture, there is no difficulty in the 
matter of cultivation, and comparing it with the 
Dieffenbachias, i t may be considered less troublesome, 
from the fact that it does not run up with a naked and 
leggy stem,requiring frequent propagation to prevent its 
getting tall and unsightly. The blade of die leaf is 
ovate, more or less heart-shaped at the base, deep green 
or paler in winter, and beautifully striped with yellow 
along the course of the principal ascending and incurved 
veins. The petioles of the leaves are also more or less 
striated. The flowers are of no value for horticultural 
purposes, but for the foliage alone this species is worthy 
of extended cultivation. A rich fibrous loam with 
plenty of sand and some broken potsherds to keep it 
open, will suit this species ; the porosity is necessary 
on accouut of the quantity of water required. 
