March 22, 1890. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
457 
MR. FAIRGRIEVE OF DUNKELD 
ON THE CULTIVATION OF HARDY 
STONE FRUITS.* 
It is now an established fact, that fruit-growing of every 
kind is receiving much more attention than formerly ; 
and it is quite true also that it must not only have 
more attention, but more skill must be exemplified in 
its culture, and more success, if we are to compete 
favourably with foreign growers. This, then, is the 
object of my paper : to assist, however humbly, in 
diffusing knowledge on fruit-growing, and as this is 
a popular subject with most of us, who are in great 
earnest as to the best methods of growing stone-fruits, I 
need offer no further apology. My subject, then, is 
“The Culture of Hardy Stone Fruit Out of Doors.” 
Situation. 
I would say in the first place, the selection of a 
situation for growing most kinds of stone fruits 
successfully ought to be carefully attended to ; it ought 
if possible to be 200 feet above the sea-level, protected 
from the direct sweep of the east wind, and if possible 
the north also. This can be easily managed by a little 
judicious planting of forest trees. I think ground 
Peaches, Apricots, and Nectarines. No 2, south-west or 
nearly so, is very suitable for Cherries. If the weather 
is cold and frosty when the fruit is stoning the trees 
ought to be protected from any east wind that may 
prevail. Cherries especially require this, as their 
flower is further from the wall than any of the other 
fruits under discussion, and consequently more liable to 
be destroyed. No. 3, the south-east or nearly so. This 
I beg to recommend for Plums, and on it we grow most 
successfully such varieties as Kirk’s, Lawson’s Golden 
Gage, Pond’s Seedling, Ick worth Imperatrice, and 
Goliath, as well as other sorts, and I consider it very 
suitable for the fruit named. No. 4. This is an aspect 
with just a few more points towards the south ; indeed, 
I think it equal to a due southern aspect for Peaches. 
Morellos are always grown by us on a more northern 
aspect ; not, however, that they prefer it, but they do 
not refuse to do in it. 
Soil. 
The draining and levelling of the soil and sub-soil 
(where wall trees are to be planted) is of great import¬ 
ance. The subsoil should be levelled in a completely 
graduating manner from the wall to the walk ; then 
Planting. 
The soil being prepared, let the roots of the trees to be 
planted be spread out in layers in their order as near 
the surface as can be ; cover them completely with soil 
to the depth already named ; tread the soil on them 
firmly, and give them a covering of short litter above, 
and secure the tree firmly. I think it best not to nail 
the tree for months after it is planted, in order that it 
may be allowed to settle properly ; but fix it securely 
to prevent the wind from destroying the roots by 
shaking. 
Manuring. 
Garden ground becomes impoverished by constant 
cropping, and exhausted by decomposition and evapora¬ 
tion. This must be supplied in some manner, and I 
will detail the means I have adopted with success. 
I cut a trench 3 ft. 6 ins. or thereby round any of the 
sorts of fruit trees mentioned, lifting every root care¬ 
fully, and clearing almost every particle of soil away. 
Then I replace the roots, and renew the soil with a 
mixture I prepare for this purpose. This does not 
require doing very often, but we have Apricots I have 
treated thus in June, and others in January. When I 
do this I bring the roots to the very top and shorten 
COBKEUJI WaRREXII. 
sloping southwards or south-west preferable to level 
ground, but this paper is more intended to treat on the 
culture and management of fruit trees in the places we 
are in charge of than in selecting situations. Still, I 
think the situation described would be much in favour 
of the fruit trees intended to be planted. 
Aspect. 
1 think in Scotland, and particularly the northern 
portion of it, a southern aspect is preferable for Peaches, 
Nectarines, Apricots, Plums, and Cherries ; yet I do not 
despair of growing either of them to perfection from the 
east right round to the west; of course coming south¬ 
wards ; and in that case the grower must give the 
preferable situation to the fruit he wishes most to be 
good and well flavoured, nearest the southern point; and 
the varieties he cares least for, or holds of least import¬ 
ance, farthest from it, but of course no point of the north 
can be in it except for Morellos. Plums do remarkably 
well on an eastern exposure, as well as early kinds of 
Peaches; and Cherries do first-class on a western 
exposure. The best arrangement for general cultivation, 
I consider, is No. 1 wall which is due south, or a point 
or two of either east or west in it. This is the best for 
S^itt^KthshUe!* > f the R °y al Horticultural 
drain as much as you think necessary (of course the 
distance of the drains from each other depends on the 
nature of the subsoil). This done, about 18 ins. of 
good ordinary soil will suit most stone fruit very well, 
taking care to follow the same graduating slope as done 
in the subsoil. This quantity of soil will prevent the 
roots from going too far from the light and heat, and 
indeed I think more soil very injurious in many cases. 
My reason for so thinking is because by heaping too 
much soil on, the roots go as far from light and heat 
as they can find room to go (just as the branches go as 
far up the wall a9 they can possibly get) : they thus 
become long, bare, and useless ; cease to contribute to 
the tree’s fruitfulness ; and in course of time all the 
roots will be so far from light that they will not serve 
the purpose of fruit mediums as desired. In most cases 
we have to take the soil that is within the limits of the 
garden where we propose planting. If, however, we 
had the selection, we would prefer a sound yellow loam, 
and, notwithstanding that it loses its colour, it is very 
congenial for the purpose named. But, indeed, fibry 
loam, sandy loam, or loam of the nature of clay, will 
all suit for stone fruit growing, in its intermediate 
stages ; and by shifting the soil, levelling, trenching, 
and manuring, nothing more is desirable. 
them. I think this is very important and desirable 
in high-class cultivation. Pointing in manure from 
the farm-yard (if sweet and not too much decomposed) 
I also regard as a valuable means, but this must not be 
done too often. Another mixture which I consider 
even superior is horse and cow droppings, mixed with a 
little lime rubbish, wood ashes, and charcoal. Clear 
the surface properly of all the loose exhausted soil, and 
apply 6 ins. or 8 ins. of this, and a most beneficial 
effect will be the result. Of course, light manure may 
be applied, but I decline to recommend any one in 
particular. 
Mulching. 
This is simply a branch of manuring, and by it a great 
deal can be accomplished. In the month of November 
the roots ought to be mulched or top-dressed, and when 
done at this time the strength of the mulching is forced 
into the ground by the heavy rains, which after all, 
perhaps, is the most natural and serviceable way of 
reaching tho roots, and this, no doubt, contributes 
greatly to the health of the trees, and consequently the 
fruit. Mulching also helps to preserve the roots from 
extreme frost and drought, but should be taken away 
and the ground hoed and raked the moment the fruit 
begins to colour ; and this is indispensable, in order to 
