April 19, 1890. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
523 
When all are planted, water carefully with a fine rose, 
so as to prevent the soil from washing out of the pockets. 
When fairly established, they must have a liberal 
supply, and it will be necessary to damp the floors and 
syringe the walls at least twice a day during hot, bright 
weather. The Ferns I have selected being of a some¬ 
what harder nature than those recommended for pots, 
will not be injured by being occasionally syringed, as 
the tufa must be kept moist, so as to make it become 
green, for the sooner it does become green the more 
natural will it look. 
The temperature should be kept nearer to a green¬ 
house standard than that of a stove. In winter a 
temperature of 45° at night to 50° or 55° in the day 
will suffice, gradually rising as the days lengthen and 
the light increases to 60° or 65° at night, and from 75’ 
to 80° in the day, during the summer. No harm will 
be done if the temperature rises even 10° higher than I 
have stated, if caused by the sun ; and if the temperature 
should rise to this degree attend well to the damping of 
the floors. If such a house is glazed with Hartley’s 
patent glass so much the better, as little or no shading 
will then be required. If shading must of necessity be 
used, in this case also have removable blinds, if possible. 
I would not advocate the use of coloured glass, as I have 
found that Ferns do not seem to do well when placed 
under ir. 
Ferns for Decoration and Cutting. —If Ferns 
are wanted for house decoration during the winter 
months, the best plan is, early in the summer, to break 
up or divide any large plants that are at disposal of the 
varieties required, or any of the seedlings that can be 
spared, and grow them on in heated frames, as, after 
they are established, the heat may be dispensed with. 
Give them plenty of light, and admit air night and day 
on all favourable occasions. Ferns so grown will last 
much longer when cut, and the plants will stand the 
dry atmosphere of rooms and the effects of gas much 
better, giving pleasure and credit to all concerned. 
Blocks of Cork, Bark, and Wood.— Ferns planted 
on cork, bark, or pieces of wood, are both useful and 
interesting for hanging in the stove, fernery, or green¬ 
house. Some of the Davallias may be used for this 
purpose, and likewise Stenochliena scandens, but I do 
not think anything can surpass the Platyceriums for 
placing on blocks, as they display their peculiar fronds 
to much greater advantage on blocks than in pots. 
Platycerium alcicorne is the most free-growing species, 
while P. Willinckii and P. grande are, perhaps, the 
most beautiful and interesting. I do not advocate the 
planting of Ferns on blocks in moss alone, but prefer 
to use some rough peat; on this place the Ferns, keep¬ 
ing them secure by carefully passing some copper wire 
behind the sterile fronds. The Ferns will soon root 
into the peat and grow much better than they would 
in moss alone. They must be soaked in water when 
they require it, as it is impossible to water them pro¬ 
perly with a can. My objection to the use of mo3s is 
that with the continual dipping the moss decays, and 
likewise the roots of the Ferns. 
Hanging Baskets. —These make beautiful orna¬ 
ments, and many Ferns do well in them and show their 
beauty. They should be suspended, or their long, 
drooping and graceful fronds are not seen to advantage. 
The baskets must be lined with moss or sphagnum, to 
prevent the soil from washing out. The compost should 
be the same as previously mentioned. If possible, 
when planting use those Ferns that are rather pot- 
bound, or with plenty of root, and if planted firmly 
they will soon commence to grow, and at once become 
effective. We have numerous varieties of Ferns suitable 
for this purpose that will grow either in stove or green¬ 
house. I shall in this case also select those I have 
found to do well : Platycerium alcicorne (greenhouse), 
Adiantum ciliatum (g), A. cuneatum grandiceps (g), A. 
assimile (g), A. Capillus-Veneris (g), Davallia bullata 
(g), D. hemiptera (g), Pteris scaberula, impatient of 
heat (g), Asplenium alatum (stove), Adiantum dolabri- 
forme (s), Davallia Tyermanii (s), D. pentaphylla, 
Nephrolepis davallioides (s), N. d. furcans (s), N. 
Duffii (s), Gymnogramma schizophylla gloriosa (s), a 
handsome Fern. 
These will require careful attention in the matter of 
watering. Never allow them to get thoroughly dry 
during the growing season, for if so neglected they are 
often spoiled beyond recovery. The best jilan is to 
take them down when dry and soak them in water, so 
as to ensure thorough saturation of both the soil and 
moss, and allow them to drain before re-hanging, 
especially if there are any plants of a delicate character 
placed underneath them. 
(To be continued.) 
PLANTING. 
When to plant, and how to plant? are questions 
which follow each other in circumstances of diverse 
natures, and it is at times a task of no ordinary import¬ 
ance to answer them with satisfaction to the questioner 
and to one’s self. As regards the culinary garden, 
however, the first question may be answered thus :— 
Plant to suit the demand so far as existing resources 
will permit; as to the second, plant as the nature of 
the plants themselves suggest, in conjunction with the 
condition and nature of the soil. Planting in the cul¬ 
inary garden must be done on principle, if satisfactory 
results are expected—not necessarily, however, on a 
given date. That method of hard and fast practice, 
which recommends itself to some, although rewarded 
with success at times, as often leads to failure. The 
seasons in the British Isles are too fickle to recommend 
such practice ; and were they ever so reliable, the 
practice would condemn itself, if other conditions be 
carefully studied. 
To plant as early in a late garden as one’s neighbour 
does in one quite the reverse, thinking one may get 
early vegetables on the same date, or one approximate 
to it, is simply to court defeat. Better let one’s neigh¬ 
bour have the benefit of earlier planting, and run the 
risk of being behind him a few days—although tint does 
not always follow—-leaving the plants in safe quarters, 
let your fingers itch as they may to be at the same 
work. Failures often occur through ignoring these 
seeming trifles, when by a little judicious forethought, 
the anxious—sometimes too anxious—cultivator might 
be rewarded by a rich harvest for his labours. In 
planting then, aim at planting reasonably, and look 
the questions, when and how, not in a happy-go-lucky 
fashion, but fair and square in the face, and success in 
nine cases out of ten will be your ultimate reward. 
To proceed with planting. It has been pointed out 
that it may be proceeded with too early. 'We usually 
plant such things as Artichokes, Jerusalem and 
Globe, as also Seakale, from eyes, early in February, 
not because we expect extraordinary results from such 
early planting, but because of the facility with which 
they may be planted then, and thus reduce work of 
that nature when the busy season is with us. The 
former should have about 2J ft. between the rows, 
indeed another foot is not too much ; and in place of 
being relegated to the most shady and useless part of 
the garden, should enjoy a sunny exposure, and the 
results will be found much improved. Globe Artichokes 
when planted should be covered right over-head with 
some light, open material, and as the crowns push into 
growth they will make their own way through it. Part 
of the stock of these ought to be lifted and replanted 
annually, and thus a succession is formed to those that 
remain undisturbed ; 3 ft. apart each way is a good 
distance to plant these. 
Potatos may also be planted early where the soil is 
not too adhesive, and hence encourage frosts to penetrate 
too deep for the safety of the plants. I have planted 
them in October in an open sandy soil, only giving a 
greater depth, and the results were most satisfactory, 
and, if anything, earlier than those planted in early 
spring. This practice would not be advisable on a soil 
of an opposite nature, but it is quite safe on the soil of 
the nature described above. Planting as the digging 
proceeds is of all methods the best, in any sort of soil 
or at any season. The advantages are—the soil is left 
free and open all round the tubers, and the tuber can 
be put exactly as you wish it as to depth from the 
manure, or on the manure itself as many successfully 
practice. Drawing drills with the hoe, or cutting out 
with the spade on the ground previously dug will suit 
fairly well, and is certainly much preferable to the 
dibber, which leaves a smooth side all round for the 
young roots to pierce through. Where Potatoes are 
cut, this ought to be done at least a week before plant¬ 
ing, and it is a good plan to have some newly slaked 
lime beside you while cutting to dip the fresh cut 
tuber in. This serves a double purpose, i.e., it pre¬ 
vents bleeding—a great waste of the strength of the 
tuber—and also keeps slugs and wireworms entirely at 
bay. Two feet apart is the commonly adopted distance 
to plant them, and suits very well with Kidney varieties 
or any other short-topped kinds ; but another six inches 
is not ground lost in the case of some of the rampant- 
top growers. 
Early Cauliflowers, Cabbages, and the general lot of 
autumn and winter greens demand kindly attention in 
spring, and it is well in the case of the former where 
hand glasses are not available to have them transferred 
from the frames where they have been wintered, when 
the weather is suitable and tempered a little, say in 
the second or third week in March in early districts 
and sheltered gardens, while the second or third week 
in April will be quite early enough in late and cold 
gardens. These ought to be very carefully handled, 
and if possible removed with a small ball and planted 
with trowel, and have the benefit of a slight protection, 
such as is afforded by Spruce branches ; as also planted 
in the southerly and best sheltered corner of the garden, 
as these are a very important crop. A succession to these 
is easily furnished by sowing in January or February 
(in boxes), and working on in the houses till fit to prick 
out in frames on slight hot-beds, or even sown on slight 
hot-bed and thinned or pricked out in one of the same. 
Sow in March or April outside. Some sow again in 
May, but this is quite unnecessary, if Veitch’s Autumn 
Giant is sown in January or February, as it will bridge 
over the time between the earlier varieties, and the 
early Broccoli if planted in the opposite aspects. 
Cabbages for early use are usually planted in the 
autumn, and a good time to plant them is early in 
September from seeds sown for that purpose, about the 
middle of July. These Cabbages under ordinary cir¬ 
cumstances will be fit for use in April and May. The 
succession lot planted in March or April will succeed 
them ; and another batch should be planted in June, 
which will be found useful for early autumn and 
winter, when the late Cabbages, Savoys, and Brussels 
Sprouts will keep up a constant supply. The latter, 
being the useful “ cut-and-come-again” which one may 
find serviceable from early in October to end of March 
—six months—ought to be sown in January and 
worked on as recommended for Cauliflowers, and late 
succession sown outside in March or April. I usually 
sow a few seeds of these in August along with Cauli¬ 
flower and winter them in a frame, and find they come 
in before the forced spring sowing. 
Lettuces and all salading should be sown where 
they are to remain, and be thinned out according to 
their respective growths, not that they won’t bear trans¬ 
planting, but their non-removal is productive of finer, 
juicy, crisp salading through this attention. It will 
be observed by a little practice that transplanted 
Lettuces run to flower-stem very quickly in hot 
weather, and I find that when transplanting must be 
resorted to (through accidents which may occur), if 
planted obliquely with heads to the north they will be 
longer fit for use; in fact, planted thus, they will 
remain a fortnight or three weeks longer fit for use 
than if planted by the orthodox method. 
Celery should be carefully lifted with a ball and 
planted with a trowel, taking advantage of showery 
weather if possible, and, failing that, give copious 
supplies of water, and spread some loose dry litter 
amongst the plants to prevent evaporation—grass 
mowings suit very well. 
As regards watering, it may alarm some to hear that 
I seldom water any ordinary crop more than once, 
except in a very exceptional case. In watering every¬ 
thing outside in dry weather, my modus operandi is as 
follows :—Before planting, the drills in which the 
plants are to be planted—I draw drills for nearly 
everything planted in the culinary garden—are 
thoroughly moistened early in the afternoon, and when 
partially dry, planting is proceeded with in the usual 
way, the plants meanwhile being selected and 
“ puddled,” by being dipped and drawn backwards and 
forwards in a mixture of cow-dung, soot, and soil, two 
parts of the latter to one of the former two, and brought 
to the consistency of paint; a quantity of dry soil being 
alongside, in which the plants are subjected to a like 
process. In this way they are planted with miniature 
balls. A receptacle is left at the side of each plant 
when planted, which is filled with water, and when all 
is finished, and the water has percolated through the 
soil, the driest soil along each side of the drill is drawn 
in over all, thus preventing evaporation ; and if ex¬ 
ceptionally dry weather be experienced afterwards, 
a thin sprinkling of grass mowings, or any spent 
hot-bed dung will keep all quite moist, and not look 
the least unsightly. The ordinary mode of watering 
evening after evening, and leaving all to the action of 
the atmosphere, is not in keeping with good practice,, 
and is fruitful of many failures, baking the soil, and 
rendering the plants committed to it susceptible of dire 
injury. If recourse must be had to watering after¬ 
wards, a receptacle is formed as at planting, and filled 
as before, and the same routine followed ; but this is a 
course I have rarely had to resort to, even in excep¬ 
tionally dry gardens. 
Reverting to planting—I have digressed a little. 
Asparagus next claims attention, and though last, by 
no means least. It should never be planted until 
