730 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
duly 19, 1890. 
The Amateurs’ Garden. 
SEASONABLE WORK in the GARDEN. 
TheScented Verbena. —If small standards of 
Aloysia citriodora are desired, anyone having young 
plants can readily grow and train them with tha; 
object in view. Allow the main shoot to run up 
without stopping till the required height has been 
attained ; then pinch the leading stem, and a number 
of others will he thrown out. These in their turn may 
be pinched till a bushy head is the result. The maiu 
stem below the head should, of course, be kept quite 
bare after the head acquires a number of branches. 
Achimenes. —Plants in pots or pans, but more 
especially in baskets, will require a plentiful supply of 
water to keep them in healthy and vigorous condition. 
An application of liquid manure occasionally will also 
greatly assist in the production of bloom. Stake the 
stems whenever this becomes necessary, and remove 
decayed blooms as soon as they fall, or the foliage will 
get blotchy and disfigured. 
Plumbago capensis. —When this useful green¬ 
house subject goes out of flower, the growths which it has 
made during the season should be hard cut back. The 
young shoots that develop will flower again in autumn. 
Less water should be applied for a time until the 
plants are fairly into growth again. 
Carnations. —True varieties intended for flowering 
in winter may at present be pinched if they are getting 
too tall. All flowers that present themselves should 
also be removed to economise the energy of the plants 
till the proper time. Staking can be most effectively 
done when attended to before the stems get twisted 
about by falling down, and then resuming growth at 
the points. 
Browallias. —The plants that have been raised 
under glass for autumn and winter flowering will give 
more satisfaction if stood in the open air till the 
approach of winter makes it necessary to remove them 
under cover. Stand the pots on a bed of ashes in a 
sheltered place, and attend to watering. Open-air 
treatment will have the advantage of keeping the plants 
dwarf and sturdy. 
Fuchsias. —Plants in flower, and which have by 
this time filled their pots with roots, should be assisted 
with liquid manure in some form or other. It should 
be given in weak doses, and frequently rather than too 
strong. The solid portions should be filtered out or 
allowed to settle, while the liquid alone is drawn off for 
use. .. 
Tea and Hybrid Perpetual Roses. —Cuttings of 
these, if taken off now and put into light sandy soil 
under hand-glasses, will root readily before autumn. 
To ensure the base of the cuttings being firm, they 
should be taken off with a heel, and, if possible, they 
should be moderately short, and not altogether 
succulent, otherwise they will become flabby and fall 
down, rendering the success of the operation uncertain. 
Auriculas.—It is now late enough to re-pot 
Auriculas, and the operation should therefore be 
accomplished without further delay. Before doing so, 
see thac the plants are perfectly clear of green-fly, 
which does considerable damage if allowed to establish 
itself in the buds. Fumigate with tobacco paper, or 
inspect each plant separately, and with the aid of a 
small brush remove every insect that can be detected. 
Dahlias. —Staking must now be seen to if that 
has not been effected. The better plan is to drive the 
stake before the plants are put out. In such a case, all 
that is now wanted is to prune away all side shoots 
that cannot be easily accommodated, and tie the rest to 
stakes. A dose of liquid manure occasionally would 
prove very beneficial. 
Vineries.— An excellent opportunity will now be 
afforded of cleaning the Tines where the crops are cut, 
if they have been at all infested with red-spider, thrip 
or bug. With this object in view, the foliage should 
be heavily syringed every evening till they are evidently 
clean. At the same time, ample ventilation should be 
given night and day to counteract any influences arising 
from excessive moisture, and to ripen the wood by free 
exposure to sunlight and air. Where Muscats are 
ripening, a little air should be left on all night. Damp 
down in the early part of the day, so that the atmo¬ 
sphere maybe dry by closing time early in the after¬ 
noon. 
The Orchard House. — Where the fruits of 
Peaches are swelling for the second time, the trees 
should never be allowed to get dry at the roots. 
Copious syringing should also be given, in order to 
keep down insect pests, and maintain the foliage in a 
healthy condition. The first syringing may be given 
at 6 a.m. on the mornings of fine days, and ventilation 
given soon after—a little at first, but more as the 
morning lengthens into day. A high temperature 
should be guarded against unless the fruits are required 
to be ripe by a given time. 
Propagating Carnations. — I was surprised 
to see the statement, in answer to “ J. A. B., King¬ 
ston,” p. 698, that Carnations could not be propagated 
without bottom heat. This I have long since proved 
to be a mistake—in fact, I find that they are as easy to 
propagate from cuttings as any species of plants that I 
am acquainted with, and I have found it one of the 
simplest and best modes of propagating this charming 
old favourite. I raise some hundreds annually by 
cuttings inserted in a border previously prepared 
for their reception. On the surface is spread a good 
quantity of rather coarse sand, and the cuttings 
are put in with a small dibber, allowing a good 
quantity of the sand to fall into the hole, into which 
the cutting is firmly placed. When they are all put 
in, -the bed is watered over through a medium rose on 
the watering pot to settle the soil and sand about them. 
That is all the trouble that I have found necessary, 
and I do not lose a cutting unless they are pulled up 
by accident. This season I have ninety-nine out of 
every hundred, as nice bushy plants as ever I saw 
raised by layers, and all of which are showing an 
abundance of flowers. Sometimes I put a lot into boxes 
in the autumn, when we are at the Pelargonium 
cuttings. They do not do much till March following, 
when they almost all root and make nice plants in a 
few weeks. Those that I put in boxes are placed in a 
cold frame or Peach house. They require very little 
attention afterwards. I have seen more cuttings 
destroyed by the use of bottom heat than for the want 
of it.— J. Puffin, The Gardens, Runkerry House, co. 
Antrim. 
Lifting Roses. — Last autumn, being doubtful 
whether to destroy and re-plant an aged (eight year 
old) bed of dwarf first-class Boses, I asked your opinion 
about lifting them. You advised me to do so, though 
not confidently. I acted on the advice, and replenished 
the bed thoroughly, and I think it will interest both 
yourself and your readers to know that the experiment 
has succeeded. The plants have renewed their youth 
and are full of vigorous bloom. All they want 
is sun and a second year. I am afraid that the 
experiment would not be equalfy successful with 
standards, and should be glad to learn whether any 
Bose grower has found it to answer. The new Bose, Sir 
Bowland Hill, is blooming magnificently considering 
the want of sun, and equals my expectations, though 
too open-centred. — T. B. Paget, TVelton, Brough, East 
Yorles, July 10th. 
Good Carnations and Picotees. —Perhaps the 
most common error with amateurs in gardening is that 
of attempting too much. They have a limited space to 
work upon, and their resources are circumscribed; 
but they forget that 
“ "While larger boats may venture more, 
All smaller craft should keep near shore.” 
The aim of amateurs should be quality, variety, and 
one thing well done rather than ten things attempted. 
I know a gentleman in the city of Exeter, whose place 
it is always a treat to pop into when visiting that city, 
for go when you will, whatever the season, there is 
always something new, or uncommon, or exceptionally 
well grown. His native modesty forbids my giving his 
address. He has a very small flower garden and a nice 
span-roofed conservatory, about 18 ft. by 12 ft.—quite 
a model villa garden. He is now on Carnations, and 
some of the finest I have seen for the season have 
been those grown by him. Out of about two dozen 
or more good varieties—two or three of a sort—I noticed 
that he had Mrs. Fawcett very fine. It is here a much 
finer flower than "W. P. Milner, being considerably 
larger, with all the substance of that variety. Next to 
it comes Mrs. Hawtry, a good yellow self, and 
Germania, which flower for flower, holds its own among 
the yellows, but surpasses them in enduring qualities— 
a very important point in my opinion. Then comes 
old Napoleon III., no great Carnation, but a splendid 
colour, and the best crimson self going. Among the 
flakes he had fine specimens of Dan Godfrey, Miss 
Erskine "Wemyss (a beautiful rose flake), B. H. Elliott, 
Elsie, and other fine sorts. Mrs. Reynolds Hole he 
has in the perfection of its rich terra-cotta colour, and 
when seen at its best it is undoubtedly a grand 
Carnation. Among his Picotees was Her Majesty, 
which is really a grand thing, of a rich ivory-white 
with a pale purple edge, and has a remarkably well- 
made flower. Next to this acquisition is Edith 
Dombrain, a fine rose-edged. His Agnes Chambers, 
pure yellow, red-edged, was as well grown as the 
most experienced professional could wish. True, he 
gives much time to his garden, being a gentleman of 
leisure, but he is well repaid for all his pains. I look 
upon his success as a proof of the old adage, “One 
thing at a time, and that thing well.” His Pansies 
are just passing, and they have been very fine, while 
the dozen sorts of Daffodils he grows were, in their 
season, something to remember.— Bevoniensis. 
Diseased Carnations. —Herewith I submit to 
your notice a sample of diseased Carnations, and would 
like to ask through your correspondence column, the 
nature of the disease, probable cause, and its prevention 
if possible. Several varieties have gone down similar 
to sample No. 1, and in most cases they are grown in 
pairs in pots. One plant in the same pot, and quite 
healthy, will commence to look withered, and fall 
altogether in a few days. I have carefully examined 
the soil, and fail to trace either grouts or insects. 
Again, I cannot think the soil is at fault, otherwise 
both plants would suffer in the same way. I send the 
stem only of the second sample. On examination, by 
breaking the stem you will find the sap discoloured. 
Is this the foreruuner of the same complaint ? Again, 
is it likely by cutting away the diseased part to save 
the remainder of the plant ?— G. A. [After carefully 
examining the specimens, under a high magnifying 
power, we failed to find either fungi, insects, or 
nematoid worms, all of which Carnations are liable 
to be injured by. "We are inclined to think that the 
evil lies in excessive propagation through successive 
generations, and to bad light in winter, especially in 
the case of plants grown indoors, both of which tend to 
weaken and ruin the constitution of the plant. Whole 
batches of plants are liable to be thinned out by 
specimens suddenly dying off in the manner you 
indicate. The constitution of the plant is greatly 
weakened by high cultivation and rich feeding, the 
root system giving way under the pressure. The leaves 
of sample No. 2 had lost their colour and appeared 
white, owing to the tearing away of the skin, leaving 
cavities filled with air. The neighbouring cells had 
lost their green colouring matter (chlorophyll), and gave 
ns the impression that they had been suffering from want 
of light at some period or other, possibly in winter. 
Souvenir de la Malmaison behaves much in the same 
way, but as the days lengthen new leaves are produced 
and the plants generally grow out of it. We should 
not take cuttings from the dying plants if plenty can 
be obtained from healthy stock of the same kind. 
Valuable kinds you might try to save by inserting the 
healthy parts as cuttings.] 
The Amateur’s Lament. 
Before I made my garden I was a happy man, 
I read Blow & Windy’s catalogues, and joyfully would 
plan 
How lots of luscious vegetables I easily could raise, 
And figured up the profits Windy say's a garden pays. 
Of patent fertilisers, fancy garden tools and seeds, 
1 bought about as many as a western farmer needs ; 
I hired men to help me, and rising with the lark, 
I dug till time for business and finished in the dark. 
After I made my garden I was a woeful man, 
The chickens scratched my pretty beds, the dogs upon 
them i an ; 
The cats pitched battles on them fought, the cows ate 
all my corn, 
And a hog that tried to bite me always rooted there at 
morn. 
Then came a drought that burned to dust my garden ; 
then a flood, 
And pelting hail and hurricane turned everything to 
mud ; 
Then, like the plagues of Egypt, swarmed upon me 
flies and bugs, 
Inch worms, moles, cut worms, locusts, caterpillars, 
crows and slugs. 
With Paris green, tobacco, sulphur, soot and hellebore 
I dosed that insect army, but they only cried for more ; 
I spoiled my clothes and patience in the blazing sun 
and rain, 
And got myself so dirty that I always missed the train. 
All summer long I wrestled, while my perspiration 
drops, 
I think, would fill the barrels I had ready for my 
crops ; 
And though I wasn’t able to supply one dinner’s needs, 
I took the prize of champion for raising famous weeds, 
—From the American Florist. 
