36 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
September 16, 1898. 
CHRYSANTHEMUM 
NOTES. 
On looking through the collections of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums in the hands of several first-class growers we 
have been much struck by the comparative dwarf¬ 
ness of the plants as compared with the hop-pole 
proportions so commonly met with in recent years. 
This is no doubt partly attributable to a change in 
cultural details, and partly also to the season, which, 
we believe, has had a marked influence upon the 
plants in inducing a shorter, stiffer growth. The 
foliage also, as a consequence, is much denser than 
is generally the case, and this is more noticeable in 
plants grown to the highest state of perfection for 
the production of show' flowers than in the case of 
those grown only for a supply of cut blooms. In 
one collection we noted that the whole of the plants 
were much below the average height, though none 
had been cut back. Edwin Molyneux, 3 ft.; Stan- 
stead White, 4 ft.; Sunflower, 4 ft.; Puritan, 2| ft.; 
Viviand Morel, 3 ft.; and E. Clibran, 3 ft. were all 
in prime condition and highly creditable to the 
grower. One famous grower considers that the 
extra sunshine an^ heat of the season has reduced 
the height of his plants from 6 in. to 12 in. on an 
average.— G. 
-< 4 -- 
SEEDLING CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 
My exoerience with Seedling Chrysanthemums may 
be of some interest to your New South Wales 
correspondent, “ G. H. K.” whose letter at page 17 
I have read with much interest. I generally sow 
during February in shallow boxes of light soil placed 
in bottom heat. As soon as the seedlings are large 
enough to handle, they are pricked out in other 
boxes, and when strong enough, are potted into 60 
sized pots and grow’n on in pits or frames. W hen 
the weather is suitable during spring or early 
summer, they are finally potted into 24’s, and only 
the main stem is allowed to grow up. I take the 
first bud after the first break, and should the plants 
be late or weak, I select only one bud and that the 
crown one. If on the other hand they are early, I 
allow a second break, and should the plants be 
inclined to form a bush, I leave all the side branches. 
I never remove them too early, for several reasons. 
I never strike the shoots removed, but grow the 
plants on, keeping them strong and healthy to pro¬ 
duce early flowers. I have had seedlings in bloom 
six months after sowing the seed, but about ninety 
per cent, flower within a range of from six to ten 
months. If I am satisfied with the first promise of 
a seedling, I grow it a second season, as all mus 
be tried a second time ; and of first season blooms I 
have had many measuring from six to ten inches in 
diameter. I grow only new varieties in pots on 
trial, and from four to five thousand first and second 
season seedlings. 
There is a good deal of uncertainty as to the time 
the plants will flower this season, owing to the hot, 
dry weather ; but I do not think they will be more 
than from seven to ten days earlier this season than 
usual. Many of the early buds are hard and scaly, 
and the plants are much troubled with a small 
maggot, which penetrates the centre of the tips of 
the shoots for about half an inch.— Robert Owen, 
Maidenhead. 
I was much interested in reading the remarks of 
your New South Wales correspondent, “ G. H. K.” 
in The Gardening World for September gth, on 
the above subject. To his question whether the re¬ 
sults he obtains are equal or under those obtained 
by raisers in England at the present time, I should 
say that they are far superior to the average obtained 
here in the same period of time. The description of 
the method of culture adopted by " G. H. K.” shows 
at once that we occupy a far inferior position to him 
as far as climate is concerned. Our difficulties in 
raising good seedlings are many. First, we have to 
obtain seed. If this is bought, it is probably foreign, 
and this causes an infinity of trouble, with a \ ery 
meagre result; for from a thousand seedlings, it is 
quite a chance if one good sterling novelty is 
secured, as so very little of the seed is produced by 
the crossing of first-class varieties. To save your 
own seed is the best plan, but it is a difficult matter. 
During the time of the seed setting, we are treated 
to fogs and wet, and the petals often damp and 
destroy the seed. Having obtained the seeds and 
grown them one season, we must not condemn single 
and semi-double plants on the first season’s bloom. 
provided the colour and habit is all right, as the next 
season an acparently weak and single flower may be¬ 
come a bloom remarkable for fulness and solidit)'. 
Your correspondent has to be congratulated, first 
upon a climate that allows him to raise good blooms 
in nine months, and secondly, upon the success he has 
attained. I shall expect that with such advan¬ 
tageous natural conditions. New South Wales will, in 
the near future, add a number of good Chrysanthe¬ 
mums to our stock. The Chrysanthemum may be¬ 
come an annual in that salubrious land, but I am 
doubtful if it is ever likely to be so treated to any 
extent in this country.— E. Beckett, The Gardens, 
Aldenham House, Elstree, Herts, Sept. 12th. 
-- 
IN THE SHRUBBERY. 
As autumn approaches there is a considerable 
amount of important work to be done in this depart¬ 
ment. First of all, it is now that evergreens put on 
their healthy and glossy look for the winter ; so, 
too, do those of golden or silver hue. By keeping 
down weeds and slightly stirring the surface soil with 
a hoe, we materially assist towards this end. Where 
a plant is of poor colour it is not yet too late to 
remedy this defect, by applying a copious root 
watering of liquid manure. 
But my chief object in these notes is to point out 
how very simple and easy it is to propagate many 
very useful subjects if taken in hand at once. To 
avoid any repetition, I propose describing the process 
for the majority of flowering shrubs, and then to 
give a list of those most suitable for each process, 
following the same plan with some of the evergreens 
and conifers. 
Cuttings of deciduous flowering shrubs should be 
made of this season’s wood, and about 6in. to Sin.long. 
Insert these in a sandy soil; if possible in such a 
position that the morning sun reaches them. Cut 
off close below a joint, and place them fully two- 
thirds of their length belovv the soil. Tread up 
firmly, and if the soil is very dry, afford a little 
water to the bottom of the cutting as soon as the 
first portion of soil has been put up to them. This 
will supply sufficient moisture until winter rains are 
with us. If done now, the majority of the cuttings 
will callus and root while the soil is still warm. 
When planting these long cuttings it is best to dig 
and plant as you go. Thus, turn over about a foot 
of soil, set a line, and cut down a slight trench of 
the desired depth. This will leave a back against 
which to put the cuttings. Press them firmly into 
the soil; put a little of the finer soil against them, 
then tread up and water if necessary. Proceed to 
turn over more ground until a width of a little over 
18 in. is reached. Now set the line again, one and 
a half feet from the first row, and cut down as 
before. Continue this until a sufficient number of 
cuttings are inserted. 
The following autumn most of them will be ready 
for transplanting into a bed previous to taking a 
permanent position wherever required. Such 
subjects as those named below may be easily in¬ 
creased in this manner :—Deutzia candidissima, D. 
scabra. The Golden Elder, Forsythia viridissima. 
Guelder Rose, Poplars, Ribes (flowering Currant), 
Snowberry, Spirea callosa, S. Douglasii, and others, 
the various Weigelias, Cotoneasters,and almost any¬ 
thing of like nature. 
The following evergreens need similar treatment 
except that the length of cutting should not exceed 
four to six inches:—Laurustinus, Aucubas, Escalonias, 
Veronicas, Sweet Bays, Box, Eleagnus, Euonymus, 
Griselinia, Privets, Olearia Haastii, Phillyreas, Ivies, 
and Pernettyias, &c. 
Conifers will root freely if put into pots of similar 
soil, and thoroughly well drained. These must, 
however, have the protection of a pit or frame until 
next February, when they should be looked over, the 
surface soil slightly moved, and the pots placed in a 
very gentle bottom heat to finish the rooting process 
A good layer of sand on the surface of the pots will 
materially prevent damping off of the cuttings 
during the winter. Here are a few of the most 
easily struck, and which will soon make showy 
plants, according to the strength of each %'ariety. 
Cryptomeria ele^ns, Cupressus Lawsoniana and its 
numerous varieties, the very showy and pretty 
Retinosporas, Thuja Lobii, also the American and 
Chinese Thujas, Thujopsis borealis. Arbutus Unedo, 
and Chamsecyparis of sorts. The common Laurel 
may be rooted in the same manner as first described 
for the stronger deciduous subjects. September is 
the busiest month among these that we have. Ever¬ 
greens of moveable size may be safely transplanted 
now, provided plenty of water be given where the 
ground is dry. Indeed, I prefer to do it either early 
in the autumn, or else wait until spring. Done now', 
and sufficient water given, most of them will establish 
themselves before winter.— Experience. 
-"- 4 -- 
WYCOMBE ABBEY. 
This stately pile, the residence of the Right Hon. 
Lord Carrington, is situated close to High 'Wycombe, 
Bucks, and, indeed, the grounds are actually entered 
from High Street. So thickly is the lower portion 
of the grounds beset with tall, old trees, however, 
that nothing of the Abbey can be seen till the visitor 
has passed some distance within the gate. A lake 
of clear water is passed on the left, and very soon the 
fagade of the Abbey fronting the town comes in view', 
more or less obscured, it may be by the patriarchal 
trees scattered about on the grass, reminding the 
visitor of the lines : — 
“ The stately homes of England, 
How beautiful they stand. 
Amidst their tall ancestral trees 
O’er all the smiling land ! ” 
The accompanying illustration gives a good' view' of 
this aspect of the building v.'hich was restored a 
century ago by the first Lord Carrington. It w'as 
rebuilt much in the same style as the original, with, 
certain additions, making it more suitable for the 
modern style of habitation. The walls are built of a 
very hard kind of stone similar to that of Windsor 
Castle, but obtained in the county within five miles 
of the place, and in boulders beneath the surface. 
It is there cut up into small blocks 4 in. to 6 in. deep 
on the face measurement. Although it is very hard 
and stands the weather well, it is porous; and to 
provide against this contingency the walls of the 
building are cased inside with bricks. Loads of this 
Buckinghamshire stone are sent to Windsor every 
year for additional building. Three at least of the 
facades of the magnificent pile have a fine appear¬ 
ance with several square and octagonal towers 
embattled on the top The walls are more or less 
covered with various climbers, such as Ivy, Vitis 
quinquefolia (Virginian Creeper), V. tricuspidata, 
and V. vinifera, the leaves of the two latter of which 
were taking on a fine colouration even at the time of 
our visit, which was made on the 17th July, in 
compamy with the members of the National Chry¬ 
santhemum Societ)', w'ho then took their annual 
outing to Wycombe Abbey, by the kind permission 
of the Right Hon. Lord Carrington. An inspection 
of the interior was made, including the extensive and 
well-filled library. 
The courteous gardener and resident agent, Mr. G;. 
T. Miles, was formerly a veteran e.xhibitor of fruit 
and vegetables, as many a gardener of bygone, 
times experienced to his cost; but the garden is now- 
kept up for the supply of fruit, vegetables, and 
decorative plants in London and elsewhere. Nearly 
all except the late supplies of fruit had been gathered 
before the occasion of our visit, only a few' bunches 
of Foster’s Seedling being left in two of the vineries. 
A third vinery was occupied with Black Hamburgh, 
and a fourth with Muscat Grapes, ripe in both cases, 
and we noted young vines between the old rods of 
Muscats. A fine crop of Maddersfield Court. 
Foster’s Seedling, Black Hamburgh, etc., was just 
colouring in a three-quarter span-house with a low 
roof. The Peaches had been gathered in an un¬ 
heated house, but the Figs on the back walls were 
ripening the first crop of fruit, and carrying a heavy 
second one. In a heated house the trees had an 
advancing second crop. Cherry trees on the rafters 
and back w'all had also been depleted of their fruit, 
as were the Peaches in another house ; but fine fruits 
of Sea Eagle Peach were ripening in a separate com¬ 
partment. Several pits were devoted to the culture 
of Melons, of which Hero of Lockinge was ripening 
fruits about three or four pounds in weight. In this 
pit was a large quantity of the beautiful Bromeliad 
Vriesia brachystachya. Five other pits, at least, 
contained Melons in various progressive stages. A 
large house is devoted to Plants—Begonia metallica, 
and others, while Bougainvillea glabra was flowering 
freely on the roof, and Cestrum aurantiacum on 
the back wall. A pit was filled with Selaginella 
Emiliana, Ophiopogon Jaburan variegatus, Cares- 
japonica variegata, and other furnishing stuff 
