March 10, 1894. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
437 
ROOT ACTION IN 
WINTER. 
It seems to me, anent this discussion, that "inaction’' 
and not the " action ’’ of roots in winter, is the more 
appropriate word to use if we speak of trees and 
shrubs. Mr. Princep, p. 421, says "it is difficult to 
understand how, or in what way, roots are influenced 
by change of weather.” This seems to me to be 
the least diflflcult part to understand. Roots in 
autumn while the ground is yet warm and the buds 
have still to be finished up, are of course active till 
this work of making or building up the buds is 
complete ; then when colder weather comes, and all 
growth is at an end for 
the year, surely the roots 
must remain as dormant 
as the tops. There being 
little further demand on 
them for the present, 
therefore there is no need 
for action, for Nature is at 
rest above ground and as 
a consequence below also. 
I do not think Mr. 
Princep will convince 
many that the sap is so 
mercurial as he would 
have us believe, when he 
says that in evergreens 
the cause of the leaves 
drooping during frost is, 
" that the sap is driven 
down to the roots,” to be 
recalled again with a rise 
of temperature. What 
capacity roots must hafe 
(supposing this were 
possible) to be able to take 
back suflflcient to account 
for the drooping. Again, 
in the case of the "Butter 
Nut Tree,” which he 
mentions, it surely is a 
far-fetched idea that " the 
sap would have been 
driven down to the roots 
there,” " to have formed 
new fibres ” ; according to 
this, frost promotes root 
growth at the expense of 
the tops, and frequent 
changes of temperature 
would cause a very lively 
time in tree life when most 
of us have been thinking 
(and I still think) that they 
are quietly resting till 
spring. The liability of 
transplanted trees to 
suffer is not that " the sap 
is driven out through the 
wounded roots,” but that 
the ends of the roots being 
the principal feeders, have 
been cut off, and the plant 
has to await till these 
wounds are healed and 
fresh feeders made before 
a proper supply of 
nourishment can be 
afforded the tops. If 
transplanting is done in 
early autumn the injury is not nearly so great, as 
the roots being still active can recover in a measure 
before winter puts a stop to further progress. 
Mr. Princep’s experience of Vine roots is very 
much at variance with my own ; I have always found 
the Vine anything but excitable, and after the 
autumn work of the roots is done no further root 
growth is made till the shoots are well advanced 
almost to the flowering period. While serving as 
foreman to the late Mr. Wildsmith, we often 
examined the roots of Vines after top growth com¬ 
menced, and could never detect new roots before the 
shoots had made the progress I have stated. Then 
when the Vine has used up the autumn stores, and 
the old roots cannot any longer keep up a sufficient 
supply for the increasing demands of nevv growth, 
fresh roots are made very fast. To say that " the 
same may be said of Peaches ” as of Vines is most 
misleading, for Peaches are excitable, and resent 
produces the needful base callus, and from this 
presently comes roots, and when these are formed 
the cutting is safe. This present season, owing to 
the mild open v/eather, the strain on any newly 
planted things is unduly early and great. On the 
other hand, all such things planted early are already 
well rooted and are ready for action. This may be 
garden philosophy, but all sound practice must be 
based upon it .—A . D. 
HUMEA ELEGANS. 
This old greenhouse biennial is worthy of more ex¬ 
tended cultivation that it has at present, as when¬ 
ever done well it is admired by all for its graceful 
plume of flowers, and if 
well furnished with foliage 
in its earlier stages of 
growth, from its distinct 
habit it adds variety of 
form to the occupants of 
the greenhouse. To some, 
too, the odour of the foli¬ 
age is most pleasant. Sow 
the seeds during April or 
May,place the pots or pans 
in a close, moist atmos¬ 
phere, shade from sun till 
germination takes place, 
then gradually inure them 
to a free circulation of air, 
and when fit to handle 
prick them out into pans, 
using a compost of finely 
sifted soil, two-thirds of 
leaf mould to one of loam, 
made very sandy. Keep 
the soil moist, but avoid 
heavy waterings. Place 
them in a frame, which 
should he closed early in 
the afternoons, sprinkling 
the plants overhead at the 
same time. 
Although easily grown, 
if it meets with any check 
it soon tells tales by the 
foliage getting into a rusty 
condition. Being natur¬ 
ally a free growing plant, 
it delights in a free, rich 
soil, which must on no 
account be allowed to get 
very dry. A somewhat 
moist atmosphere is the 
most suitable for it. 
Although grown chiefly 
on account of the graceful 
arrangement of its flowers, 
the loss of its lower foli¬ 
age detracts considerably 
from its beauty. Before 
the plants crowd each 
other in the pans,pot them 
off singly into small pots, 
using a free, sifted com¬ 
post. Keep them under 
glass, shade them a bit 
from hot sunshine, give 
plenty of air, and remove 
the lights on all favour¬ 
able occasions. When the 
roots reach the sides of 
the pots, shift them on at 
once into 6-in. pots in coarser soil, to w’hich add a 
fourth of well decayed manure. Never allow them 
to get into a stunted condition for want of pot room. 
A second shift into 8-in. pots will carry them through 
the winter. By the middle of September place them 
altogether under cover. All through the summer 
months, during dry weather, give them a good 
sprinkling of water over the foliage twice daily. 
A cool greenhouse will do for their winter 
quarters, but keep them away from cold draughts, 
and avoid overcrowding. About April, give them 
their final shift into 12-in pots; give abundance of 
air on all favourable occasions, and by the beginning 
of June those intended for outside decorations may 
be placed in the positions intended for them, and 
any that may be reserved for conservatory decoration 
place where they will be sheltered from strong 
winds. During the summer, either top dress with 
some artificial manure, or give frequent W'aterings 
with liquid manure.— IV. B. G. 
Phalaenopsis Schilleriana. 
the practical establishment of trees and shrubs in 
the soil whilst the soil is yet warmer than the 
atmosphere. Later in the winter the soil if there be 
much frost becomes as cold as the air, and there is 
no root action. In the spring when the air is warmer 
than the soil leafing proceeds far more rapidly on 
recently planted trees and shrubs than does rooting, 
because the strain upon the branches is so much 
greater. Thus, everything points to the extreme 
importance of getting all our transplanting done early. 
Of course, this much applies to deciduous things, 
as evergreens are in a different category ; still even 
these in the majority seem to be better when early 
planted rather than when late planted. All that is 
said in relation to roots applies equally to cuttings— 
any hard wooded things propagated by cuttings if 
deciduous will always have sap descending earth¬ 
wards if put in early in the autumn, because the 
warm soil is a potent attractive force. That sap 
undue excitement in a way most gardeners are only 
too familiar with, viz., by the dropping of their buds. 
— IV. H. Lees, Trent Park Gardens, Barnet. 
Mr. Princep's paper on this subject is a most 
valuable and practical contribution to the discussion 
of a very interesting subject. Were this matter being 
referred to as one purely of abstract theory it would 
have little of interest. It is, however, one of great 
practical importance, because on full knowledge of 
root operation during the winter must be based the 
planting and transplanting of trees and shrubs. 
Thus practically in every instance is shown the 
importance of performing such operations early in 
the autumn to secure immediate root activity, and 
