504 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
April 7, 1894. 
EXOTIC FERNS AND THEIR CULTURE. 
[Concluded from p. 488 ) 
Hints as to Potting. 
The principal potting operations should be accom¬ 
plished in spring. Nevertheless it is often necessary 
to repot such plants as require it, at nearly all 
periods of the year, and careful potting is one 
important point with regard to successful culture. 
In the first place I will endeavour to show how it 
should not be done. No plant should ever be repotted 
when in a dry condition, and if there be any plants 
that have become pot-bound, the ball will conse¬ 
quently be very firm, and water can only permeate 
through it with difficulty. If such plants are turned 
out and placed into a larger pot without interfering 
with the ball (which is often the case, when the 
operation is performed by the inexperienced), and 
the cotTipost to fill up the space but imperfectly 
rammed, the consequence will be that water will find 
its way through the fresh compost, leaving the ball 
of the plant entirely dry. In repotting, the old ball 
of every plant should be carefully pricked over with 
a pointed stick, and the roots loosened on the out¬ 
side as much as possible. Should the ball of the 
plant be extra firm, the compost added should also 
be made extra firm, so that the water given will take 
some time to pass through it, when the old ball 
will be equally moistened. These items, however 
simple they may appear, will form important 
auxiliaries to successful culture. 
Manure Beneficial to Ferns. 
The application of artificial manure when carefully 
performed cannot be too strongly recommended. 
There are now various preparations, many of which 
are valuable stimulants. Clay’s Fertiliser when 
judiciously applied will give a good account of itself 
as beneficial food for Ferns, and being slow in action 
no dangerous results ensue from its use. It does 
not dissolve freely in water, and the best method of 
applying it is by scattering it thinly over the surface 
of the pot, which should be pricked over with a 
pointed stick. Soot is also a satisfactory stimulant 
when thoroughly dissolved before using it. The 
most effectual method is, to place about half a 
bushel of pure soot into a cask about the size of a 
petroleum cask ; make a pit in the centre of the soot, 
then pour in a little boiling water, and commence to 
mix by degrees until the whole of the soot is trans¬ 
formed into the consistency of paste; then add a 
couple of cans of boiling water, when it should be 
allowed to stand a few hours ; then fill up the cask 
with cold water. In twenty-four hours if the soot be 
pure all the sediment will be at the bottom, and 
the soot water will be left as clear and transparent 
as brandy ; should any scum arise on the surface it 
should be skimmed off. To some this method of 
procedure may seem unnecessary, but by dissolving 
the soot in boiling water the fertilising properties are 
extracted and transformed into a purified liquid, and 
as the food of plants must be in a liquid state before 
it can be absorbed by the roots the desirability of 
this process is at once apparent. Should a plant be 
troubled with earth-worms a few waterings with the 
above will materially assist in removing them. 
Insects Troublesome to Ferns. 
The Ferns that are grown in the greatest heat are 
the most likely to get infested with insects, and there 
is no better way of propagating insects than by 
allowing the plants to become dry at the roots. A 
vigilant watch should be kept for the appearance of 
scale, which should be removed with a soft brush or 
sponge. The young fronds of Ferns often become 
infested with green fly, but the most troublesome of 
all are thrips, which are enemies to be dreaded ; 
and to keep them in check renders constant fumiga¬ 
tion imperative. 
Distribution. 
It is evident there are but few, if any other family of 
plants that claim a wider geographical distribution. 
In the first instance I will take for example the 
species of Adiantum. A. Cardiochlaena is imported 
to us from tropical America, A. caudatum from 
the East Indies. A. concinnum from the West 
Indies, A. cristatum from Jamaica, A. cuneatum 
from Brazil, A. farleyense from Barbados, A. Peei 
from iMexico, A. reniform from Madeira, A. peru- 
vianum from Peru, A. formosum from Australia, and 
A. triangulatum from Trinidad. But when we have 
hundreds of names to deal with it will be seen that 
it is impossible to give them all and the habitats. 
It must suffice then to know that in addition to 
what I have already named, we have various repre¬ 
sentations from the Cape of Good Hope, Norfolk 
Island, New South Wales, New Zealand, Tasmania, 
St. He'ena, South, West, and North Africa, United 
States of America, Canada, Siberia, Japan, New 
Caledonia, Columbia, China, Chili, Falkland 
Islands, East, West, and Northern India, New 
Holland, Borneo, Phillipine Islands, Ceylon, Malay 
Islands, Polynesian Islands, Sandwich Island, etc., 
etc. That famous traveller and explorer, Mr. 
Stanley, in describing some of his discoveries in 
Central Africa, gives a most interesting description 
of Ferns he discovered, growing in magnificent 
luxuriance in the regions bordering that marvellous 
range of mountains called the “ Ruwenzori ” or 
^ “ Cloud King.” The Tree Ferns he describes as 
having attained a great height—having almost the 
semblance of forest trees—and that numerous other 
Ferns abound in those regions, all of which were 
marvellous examples of health and vigour. The 
eternal mist that overhangs those regions —mist so 
dense that an equatorial sun cannot penetrate— 
while underneath all vegetation is moistened with 
the almost perpetual dew or rain, proves beyond a 
doubt that Ferns enjoy shade and moisture. 
The Fernery. 
With regard to accommodation, numbers of exotic 
Ferns are cultivated with a certain amount of success 
in houses devoted to miscellaneous plants ; but I need 
hardly say that when separate houses are set apart 
for their accommodation, facilities are within reach 
for the highest standard of culture. If but one 
house be accorded to their culture, the temperature 
should be somewhat higher than an ordinary green¬ 
house, where a gool proportion of exotic Ferns may 
be successfully grown. But whether the fernery be 
of moderate pretensions or elaborately designed, the 
question for consideration is the interior arrange¬ 
ment, and whoever may be intrusted with its 
management should have Nature for their guide, or 
their aim. should be to mend Nature, and Nature 
cannot be more satisfactorily imitated than by the 
introduction of a rockery. I do not assume to 
advise or suggest any method of constructing the 
rockery. I may venture to say from my own ex¬ 
perience of ferneries that the formal straight walks, 
so characteristic in plant houses and conservatories 
generally, also such as are usually laid out with 
geometrical exactitude, should be re-placed by a 
walk that is winding or serpentine in formation. 
Bordering graceful curves in the walk and in pro¬ 
minent positions may be planted specimens of Tree 
Ferns, with their graceful arching fronds rising 
majestically above their surroundings, while dells or 
glades may be surrounded with banks of Ferns in 
variety, including Lomarias and Blechnums. Here 
also the bluish-green fronds of Phlebodium aureum 
will harmonise with the various shades of green and 
variegated fronds of the Pteris group. Standing 
out in bold relief may be some specimens of 
Neotopteris Nidus (the Birds-nest Fern). Away at 
the coolest end of the fernery, specimens of Wood- 
wardia radicans, overhanging jutting rocks, will be 
very effective ; or elevated on a mouni formed on 
the rockwork, and rising out of a carpet of Moss, 
the long, spreading, pale green fronds of Cibotium 
Schiedei may be admired. Nephrolepis exaltata 
will be quite at home with its creeping rhizomes 
rambling among the boulders of rockwork, throwing 
out masses of long, linear lanceolate fronds in every 
direction. 
In a cosy, shady little nook, and as if planted by 
Nature, may be admired the symmetrical form of 
Todea supsrba, and in close proximity various 
species of the Filmy P'erns may be grown with 
success. Dotted about near the margin of the walk 
may be planted the pretty little ” Lace Fern,” 
Cheilanthes elegans. In positions that are not in 
danger of being over-crowded with other plants, 
various species of the Gleichenia will form an im¬ 
portant feature in the fernery. Most of the exotic 
Ferns recommended for stove culture may be intro¬ 
duced to the fernery during the summer months, 
but should be removed to the stove at the approach 
of autumn. It should, however, be borne in mind 
that when stove Ferns are placed in a lower tempera¬ 
ture the watering-can should be used sparingly, as 
the plants will not make such rapid growth as when 
in greater heat, consequently a lesser amount of 
water will be required. All specimen plants should 
be given plenty of room, so that their beauty and 
gracefulness may be admired at a glance For to 
conceal the gracefulness of a Fern by over-crowding 
is to rob it of all its beauty. Spaces on the side 
walls not occupied with rockwork should be sup¬ 
plied with pockets formed out of stone of a porous 
nature, in which may be grown any of the Ferns re¬ 
commended for basket culture. 
Ferns enjoy light, but strong sunshine is fatal, 
consequently I advise roller blinds as the best 
method of shading which can be drawn up and down 
at pleasure. I have hitherto purposely avoided 
touching on any other plants as suitable subjects for 
the enhancement of the appearance of the Fernery, 
and will now only name two kinds which are agree¬ 
able companions, namely. Palms and foliage 
Begonias, in the absence of which the fernery would 
be incomplete. When a supply of water is at com¬ 
mand an irregular ornamental stream finding its way 
between the banks of greenery will add effectively 
to its natural appearance. Whether the fernery be 
extensive or otherwise, a rockery will in either case 
be advantageous ; but in the smaller structure the 
subjects planted should also be proportionately 
dwarfer in habit. Careful attention should be given 
to shading and airing. In the latter operation it 
should always be ascertained that cold currents of 
air do not blow on the plants, for draughts are at 
all times injurious.— G. Camp. 
- -i- - 
ARBORICULTURE. 
One of the lessons in arboriculture that the recent 
gales have taught is that fine picturesque trees, such 
as are planted either for ornament or shelter round 
noblemen’s and gentlemen’s parks, are bound to 
come to grief when exposed to such gales as we had 
last winter, unless greater precautions are taken and 
more skill shown in preparing the ground before 
they are planted, in the act of planting itself, and 
their subsequent pruning. 
Not only do the trees get blown over, but the park 
walls near which they staffid are a’l torn into gaps 
by the roots of the trees that have got under them, 
or else by the trees falling on the walls. As witness 
what happened this winter at Drummond Castle, 
near Crieff, where hundreds of very fine oak and 
other trees were either blown down or so disfigured 
by the destruction of their branches as to be no 
longer ornaments. 
Any one who will carefully diagnose such a case— 
as the writer has done more than once—will find 
that a great many of the roots of such trees run along 
the ground, very near the surface, where the soil 
most congenial to their extension is situate, in which 
position their anchorage power, so to speak, is small 
as compared with what it would have been had the 
said roots been for the greater part from one to two 
feet under the surface of the soil. 
So much for the roots—now for the branches. 
These are allowed to extend at their own pleasure 
till they form great long limbs—very picturesque, and 
much to be desired, no doubt, but very dangerous 
for their own safety in the first place, and equally so 
for the stability of the whole tree. Every one with 
the slightest knowledge of mechanics knows that the 
power of the lever increases in the ratio of its dis¬ 
tance from the fulcrum, therefore a long branch 
brings enormously increased power to bear on 
wrenching the roots of the tree out of the ground, or, 
if the roots are able to resist, the branch itself has 
to succumb, in either case destroying the tree for 
either shelter or ornament. 
To mitigate, if not completely to avoid, such 
disastrous consequences, a different system of 
planting and pruning should be adopted. The 
foundation of the wall, after the ground has been 
well drained, should be laid not less than three feet 
deep, and should be of concrete up to ground level, 
so that the roots of the trees should not be able to 
penetrate it. The whole ground in which the trees 
are to be planted should be trenched at least two feet 
deep, the good soil of the surface being placed not less 
than a foot deep, so as to induce the trees to make 
all their roots at that depth, and not run along the 
surface, as they do in most cases when planted in 
the usual way. This weight of soil over the roots 
would counteract to a large exteut the leverage of 
the long branches. 
With regard to the branches themselves, they 
should have their points cut off when they develop 
a tendency to take a strong lead. Thus the trees 
would have more compact heads—not, perhaps, so 
picturesque from an artistic point of view, but still 
handsome, shapely trees, no three or four branches 
of which would put such a strain on the roots as one 
that is allowed to ramble on at its own will would. 
What I have proposed will, I think, command itself 
to the unprejudiced mind as being founded on reason 
and the known laws that bear on the question; and 
it is a very serious one, as many within the last 
quarter of a century have found to their cost.—-IF. 
Thompson, Clovenfords, in The Scotsman. 
