92 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
Oct. 11th, 1884. 
THE 
©rclntr (brokers Calendar* 
u 
Ventilation of Orchid-houses.—We may fairly 
claim to have made great and important improve¬ 
ments in the ventilation of Orchid-houses of late 
years, and also that the importance of a careful use 
of the means provided for the admission of pure air 
receives more attention than it formerly did. In fact, 
the subject of ventilation has become more scientifi¬ 
cally studied among gardeners, and consequently the 
horticultural builder has been induced to relinquish 
the old styles of ventilation, and a better system has 
been adopted. Hence we can hardly forbear a smile 
when we come across those cumbersome structures 
with their complicated arrangements of ropes, weights 
and pullies for sliding down the top sashes, and their 
swinging front lights for giving air where front venti¬ 
lators was provided at all, which we see in most 
old places, and which, with a very small outlay, 
might be made much better houses for plants if 
they were taken in hand by any ordinarily sensible 
man. 
While coaching the builder into better notions, 
gardeners also forgot some of their own traditional 
whims. Who among us, who have served in large 
gardens in our young days, cannot remember many 
a sound rating for not immediately shutting off all 
the air when it began to rain ? The rule was merely 
established by the custom of one practitioner following 
in the steps of another, and in many cases becoming 
more strict in his notions, and thus the advisable 
regulation of restricting the quantity of air admitted 
in dull weather got corrupted into a mischievous 
whim, for I never found one of its upholders who 
could advance a reasonable excuse for it. 
Wholesome air at all seasons of the year, and at all 
hours of the day and night, is the one thing above all 
others needful for the successful cultivation of Orchids 
—given that they thrive under all reasonable circum¬ 
stances, and without it they languish. Often to my 
remonstrance at the close, impure air in an Orchid- 
house, it has been urged that ventilation was not 
more freely given in order that the temperature might 
be kept up. This is no valid excuse, as the tempera¬ 
ture, as marked by the thermometer, is but of 
secondary importance, even heat-loving Orchids 
thriving better in a healthy atmosphere of 65 deg. than 
in a close one of 80 deg.; indeed, in impure air an 
excessively high temperature acts on the plants in 
precisely the same manner as an excessively low one 
—it stunts them and prevents them either growing 
or flowering satisfactorily. 
The system of ventilation now generally hi use in 
all good collections is simple, and not only does it 
answer the purpose for which it is intended, but it is 
a great saving in the wear of the structures over that 
of the old plan of sliding lights, which also often 
caused great damage by slipping down in the night in 
frosty weather. The method of opening the venti¬ 
lators now in use varies according to fancy, but the 
plan of giving ah is much the same in principle, viz., 
the placing of ventilators at intervals in the ridge at 
the highest point, hinged on the upper side so that 
when open the movable part still almost covers the 
aperture in case of rain, and of small traps, with 
sliding covers, in the brickwork at the base of the 
house as near the ground as possible, and below the 
hot-water piping where practicable. The top ventila¬ 
tion is also supplemented in many houses by a small 
movable sash at either end of the house at the highest 
point, and a great improvement has been made in 
many cases by leaving an J-in. opening between the last 
pane of glass and the wall plate, and thus providing a 
means of ventilation which cannot be closed at 
any time or season indeed, for that matter, all 
who wish their plants well should leave a little 
ah on at night top and bottom in summer, and 
at the bottom in winter, not quite closing the venti¬ 
lators at any time, unless in towns when smoky fogs 
prevail. 
The doing away with the front swinging ventilators 
on a level with the plants was one of the best moves 
made in connection with Orchid-growing, as with them 
when air was given the plants near the openings were 
practically out-of-doors, and those further removed 
were not benefited. The greater number of properly- 
placed ventilators there are in an Orchid-house the 
better, but it must be understood that they are to be 
carefully used, an inch or two of air on each being 
given instead of putting a few wide open and leaving 
the others closed. The object is to allow of the ingress 
of pure air and the egress of that which has become 
vitiated in such a manner that the wholesome quality 
of the atmosphere throughout the house is maintained 
without causing currents, and this is only to be 
secured by regulating the top and bottom ventilators 
so that they balance, even the quarter from which the 
wind comes being studied, so that on that side of the 
house the ventilators may be kept closer than on the 
other. 
This matter requires particular attention in keen 
dry east winds, at which time but little air should be 
given on the side from whence it comes. In bad 
weather the bottom ventilators are the most in use, 
and hence the importance of having them as near the 
ground-line as possible. In some houses difficulties in 
the way of carrying out this plan are met with, and 
brick chambers and drain pipes are used to conduct 
the air into the houses ; but let the difficulties be what 
they may they are worth coping with, and the inventive 
genius I have known many gentlemen display in the 
matter proves to me that no obstacle is insurmount¬ 
able if it be carefully considered. The necessity of 
leaving a little air on at night, as is well known to 
those who have practised it, cannot be too strongly 
urged, as it acts beneficially in at least two ways—it 
ensures the healthful quality of the air in the house 
at night when the heating apparatus is often most 
employed, and it also prevents that excessive night 
temperature which goes further to destroy the health 
of Orchids than anything else, and is so favourable to 
the spread of insect' pests. The regulation of the 
ventilation according to the state of the weather and 
according to the season of the year should be a 
pleasant study to the Orchid-grower, and the sooner 
he makes it one the better for his plants and for 
his own peace of mind, if he has their interests at 
heart. 
But not alone is it necessary to see that pure air is 
admitted into the house, but that there are no causes 
of impure air inside it. Sometimes it happens that 
imperfectly trapped drains admit noxious gases, and at 
others sulphur and other bad vapours find their way 
into the house along the course by which the piping 
enters from the stoke-hole. In these and all other 
such like cases great care and attention should be 
given to the curing of the evil, for if allowed to 
continue the results are most lamentable. Twice 
lately have I seen houses of Orchids reduced to the 
most unsatisfactory condition, notwithstanding the 
great care bestowed on them, by bad vapours passing 
into the houses in this way. 
Every grower of Orchids ought to have a correct 
notion of the proper principles of ventilation, and 
apply his knowledge to his own houses, regulating 
them as his experience may prompt him; for 
there is as much difference between houses built 
by the same builder on the same plan as there is in 
ships built on the same lines or violins made by the 
same maker—some houses have a stuffy air about 
them for which one cannot well account. When such is 
the case the best thing to do is to slip strips of lead 
between the laps of the lowest two or three rows of 
glass, causing permanent openings between them, so 
that a little fresh air can get in to displace the bad at 
all times. In this manner I have known the closest and 
most unmanageable houses to be perfectly cured and 
rendered good for Orchid culture. Messrs. F. Sander 
& Co., of St. Albans, who have built largely lately, 
have adopted many new devices in ventilation worth 
copying, notably their admirable system of permanent 
bottom-ventilation by arranging openings in every 
other brick at the base of the house, the current being 
checked inside by a hot-water pipe placed so as to run 
over all the openings. 
In gardens where slugs are troublesome, it is 
necessary to protect the bottom ventilators with 
perforated zinc or some other material, but if 
possible it is better to do without it. In towns, 
too, cats are wont to getinto the houses, and rather 
than risk damage to the plants by them, it is wise 
to cover the bottom ventilators with wire netting.— 
■James O'Brien. 
ORCHID NOTES. 
Oncidium incurvum.—A most pointed instance 
of the beneficial effects of cold-house treatment on 
this plant is to be seen at Woolton Wood. Mr. 
Gaskell having a large plant of it some time ago 
which had become very sickly and spotted in a warm- 
house, Mr. Davies, the gardener, placed it in the 
cold-house, where the Masdevallias are grown. Soon 
the plant exhibited great improvement in its condi¬ 
tion, and now it is one of the greenest and healthiest- 
looking specimens in the house, and sending up a 
great quantity of flower-spikes.— J. B. 
Sale of M. Oscar Lamarche’s Collection.— 
This fine collection of plants, which had been brought 
over from Liege for sale by Messrs. Protheroe & 
Morris, came under the hammer on Tuesday last, 
and good prices, as a rule, were obtained. An 
unrivalled example of Vanda Lowi, from the collec¬ 
tion of Mr. Schiller, of Hamburgh, measuring 4 ft. 
6 ins. in height, with thirty-two leaves and two young 
growths, was “ the plant of the day,” and realized 
£68 5s. Other good prices obtained were £14 14s. 
for a grand mass of Auguloa Clowesii ; £21 for 
Cattleya labiata; £24 3s for C. labiata Pescatorei; 
£8 10s. for Cypripedium caudatum roseurn ; £18 
18s. for Epidendrum prismatocarpum, a specimen with 
over 100 bulbs; £9 for Cattleya Gaskeliana; £32 
11s. for a fine young plant of Vanda Lowi; and £10 
for Vanda tricolor Wioti. 
FLORICULTURE. 
Hyacinths in Water.—“ Perhaps,” states Miss 
Maling, in her useful book on Indoor Gardening, 
‘ ‘ there is no pleasanter way of beginning garden¬ 
ing than setting up a range of Hyacinth bulbs in 
glasses. The time of year for beginning—just in 
the closing autumn—the easy and cleanly work, 
the absence of blight and insects, and the really 
magnificent flowers which are by all attainable, 
combine to make the business a thoroughly at¬ 
tractive one; so that perhaps more than half of 
those who practise it become thenceforth ‘ plant 
fanciers.’ ” This is an excellent introduction to our 
subject. But some might be induced to say, why 
write about a subject with which every one is 
acquainted ? My reply is, that every one is not 
acquainted with the practice; and any one walking 
about those parts of London in spring where private 
houses abound, they will see Hyacinths in some 
windows looking of all things most miserable. This 
would not result if they were properly managed. They 
appear to be cared for up to a certain point, and then 
they are neglected. Let us lay down a few simple 
rules for the growth of Hyacinths in water; and if 
they be followed, I ani certain something very near to 
success will be achieved. 
To those contemplating growing Hyacinths in glasses, 
I would say purchase some nice ornamental but inex¬ 
pensive glasses, in the way of Tye’s Registered. They 
have flat bottoms, they cannot topple over from the 
weight of the Hyacinth in them, as the old-fashioned 
tall glass is apt to, and the grower can have nicely- 
fitting useful supports with them that a child can 
manage. Put in each glass three or four lumps of 
charcoal about the size of a filbert—they tend to keep 
the water sweet, and they may have some little 
manurial value. Then fill up to within an inch of the 
top with clear soft water, let them stand two or three 
days ; then the charcoal will become saturated with 
the water and sink to the bottom. Now place the 
bulbs in the glasses, and let the water just touch the 
base of each. Then place them away in a cool, dry, 
dark closet for six weeks or so; meanwhile the bulbs will 
root deeply down into the water. The middle of October 
is quite soon enough to put bulbs into the glasses. 
The best sized Hyacinths are medium bulbs ; they arc 
more likely to throw one good spike, not two indifferent 
ones. It is well to look at the bulbs once a week to 
see that they are going on all right. 
If the water in any glass becomes offensive to the 
smell, turn it out; cleanse the glass thoroughly in 
tepid water, and very carefully the roots of the 
