198 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
Nov. 29th, 1SS4. 
When there are several old-established beds at 
command, I think it a far better plan to lift one- 
third or one-fourth of the stock every season, and to 
sort out the flowering-crowns and pot them up for 
forcing, then to cut clumps out of the bed, and after 
forcing them either in pots or boxes, to place them 
back where taken from. When one has a good batch 
of these plants, it is always best to adopt a regular 
course of lifting, sorting, and potting the plump 
crowns for forcing, and planting the weaker ones out 
again in lines six inches apart and an inch or two 
asunder between the crowns. They should be planted 
in moderately rich soil, and be mulched with leaf- 
soil and manure. Those used for forcing may also 
subsequently be planted out, but not till severe 
weather is past, up to which time they should have 
the shelter of glass and be protected from frost. 
For very early forcing it is a good plan to keep over 
in pots the latest flowering batch or those that have 
not had then’ constitution impaired by hard forcing, 
but have been brought on under the influence of sun 
and light. After flowering, place them in the open- 
air, and attend to them as to watering. They will go 
to rest comparatively early with plump crowns to all 
appearance little the worse for being in pots, and 
owing to then - early ripening and to their roots being 
established in the pots, they will be found in the best 
possible condition for flowering early another year.— 
Charles Ward'en, Clarendon Park Gardens, Salisbury. 
■ — a 1 - - 
PRUNING AND NAILING. 
This important operation should be pushed on with 
despatch as soon as the trees have shed then- leaves. 
Mild or sunny days should, however, be selected for 
doing the work, because the men can do so much 
more and better work than when their fingers are so 
benumbed with cold that they can scarcely hold nail 
or hammer. Happily for the present generation of 
young gardeners, the “ stick-to-naihng-all-weathers ” 
system has almost become a thing of the past, for 
the majority of gardeners nowadays regulate their 
work with more common-sense than they used to do. 
Hence it is that on cold and frosty mornings manure 
has to be wheeled on to vacant pieces of ground, to be 
subsequently dug or trenched into it, or it may be 
between fruit-trees, or as a mulching between the 
rows of Raspberries and Strawberries ; and later in 
the day, when the sun shines forth, the work of 
pruning and nailing is proceeded with, shifting from 
one wall to another as the sun moves round towards 
the west, so as to be working under its genial influence 
as long as possible, thereby rendering the work one of 
pleasure and pride instead of hardship. 
As a rule, we commence pruning and nailing opera¬ 
tions with the Morello Cherries, because, on account 
of the great number of shoots which have to be 
manipulated, they require, like the Peach, more 
time and skill to train them properly than either 
the Plum or Pear, and, moreover, they shed then- 
leaves first. Like the Peach, the Morello only 
requires the shoots to be thinned out a little, 
leaving, of course, as many young growths as are 
necessary, and cutting back the old ones to then- 
base, and also any fore-right shoots that may have 
formed during the summer to one wood-bud. Strong 
leading shoots should also be cut out where it can 
be done, in order to insure a proper balance of growth 
in the tree—that is, an equal distribution of the shoots 
over the space prescribed to each tree on the wall, and 
the shoots, about three to four inches apart, radiating 
at the same angle from the centre on either side. 
In pruning trees of the Pear, Plum, and Apricot, the 
shoots should be spurred back to the wood-bud nearest 
to then- bases, and the old spurs, where too close 
together on the individual branches should be thinned 
out a little, as anything approaching over-crowding of 
the spurs and shoots, whether on trees, under glass, 
or out-of-doors, should be looked upon as a great 
evil in fruit culture, and therefore to be avoided. 
Prior to nailing any trees that are infested with 
brown scale or thrip, which if not destroyed will 
themselves destroy the trees in a few years, should be 
taken from the wall by removing therefrom the nails 
and shreds to enable every particle of the branches so 
infested to be thoroughly painted with a mixture of 
soft-soap and petroleum, at the rate of 4 ozs. of the 
former dissolved in a gallonjof water to two wineglass¬ 
fuls of the latter, to which sufficient clay and a 
handful of fresh soot should be added to give it the 
consistency of paint. It must be applied to the trees 
with a paint-brush, taking care in doing so not to 
knock oil the fruit-buds. This is certainly a tedious 
process, but I find it is more effectual than the solution 
of soft-soap and petroleum of the same strength as 
recommended above, applied to the infested trees with 
the syringe, inasmuch as the latter, in addition to its 
not adhering sufficiently long to the shoots to be 
effective, fails to reach all the insects on the wall 
side of the individual branches. Consequently there 
remains a sufficient number to establish a fresh 
colony the following year.— H. W. Ward, Longford 
Castle Gardens. 
PLANTING TREES. 
In proceeding further with this subject, we need 
scarcely refer to the importance of planting all 
standard trees quite upright; a tree in a leaning 
position is always an eye-sore, a tree perfectly per¬ 
pendicular appears to display the line of beauty, and 
it is necessary that the planter should guard against 
the trees being blown out of an upright position before 
the roots are established in the soil. How is this 
best done ? First, by placing a stake against it, 
driven firmly into the ground; or, secondly, by 
adopting a method employed by the late Mr. Charles 
Lee, of Hammersmith, of placing across the roots, 
immediately after they are covered with a little soil, 
two stout sticks cross-wise, so that though the wind 
may sway about the head of the tree, the roots are 
not loosened in the soil. This does not always secure 
a perfectly upright growth, but it does a great deal 
towards it. And it need scarcely be stated that in 
staking the tree, care should be taken that the trunk 
be so attached to it as that it shall not, by its contact, 
fray or wound the bark of the tree. 
Despite the rain which has fallen of late, planters 
find the subsoil dry—much drier than many would 
imagine. Therefore it is necessary when planting in 
dry soils, to mulch at once with some suitable material. 
Some short dung and leaves is a very useful mixture 
for the purpose. And so long as is necessary, water 
must be given abundantly, enough to completely 
saturate the soil about the roots. It is a waste of 
time to merely water the surface. Anything short of 
thoroughly wetting the soil about and around the 
roots is useless. The muching will also be found of 
good service as a protection during winter. We have, 
known trees planted in dry soil in autumn and allowed 
to go unwatered, the result being that the fibrous 
roots perished, and the spring developmentwas unsatis¬ 
factory. If a good spell of rain sets in at the time of 
planting, leave Nature to do the work of moistening 
the dry soil. 
Some persons are very fond of planting trees on 
raised banks or mounds. Many a tree suffered heavily 
during the past dry summer from this cause. We saw 
Horse Chestnuts of large size, growing on raised 
ground in a Western suburb of London, that by the 
middle of August had almost entirely lost then- leaves 
through dryness at the roots. Trees should be raised 
above the surrounding level only in very exceptional 
cases, such as low, damp, swampy spots. Rain 
naturally runs down the sides of mounds, and does 
not penetrate to the heart of the soil, instead thereof 
it becomes wasted on the surrounding ground where 
the roots are not found. Plants thus deprived of 
then- fan- share of moisture never thrive well, and in 
dry summers, often die. Let anyone take up a tree 
thus circumstanced, and they will find the ground 
about the roots quite dry and parched. On the 
contrary, it is a commendable practice to scoop out 
a kind of shallow basin round young newly-planted 
trees, by slightly elevating the soil at a little distance 
round the stem, thus inclining it inwards towards the 
plant. In this way the rain, as it falls, is directed 
towards, instead of being conducted away from, the 
roots. It is sometimes necessary to plant raised 
mounds and banks, so as to secure a screen against 
biting and injurious winds. When this is done, the 
apex of the mound should not be made in the form 
of a ridge, but as broadly level at the top as possible; 
and after planting, be hollowed out inwards as far as 
possible, as just recommended. Some of the falling 
rain, at least, will thus be gathered for the roots. In 
all cases when such places are planted and dry 
weather follows, water must be freely given for a time, 
so that the newly-planted shrubs may be induced to 
put forth roots and establish themselves in the soil. 
THE BANANA. 
Whebe variety in the dessert is appreciated, and 
accommodation can be afforded, we would advise 
those who do not already cultivate the Banana, to 
procure one or more plants of Musa Cavendishii as 
may suit their convenience, and give it a trial. When 
its fruit is dished and placed on a table with other 
kinds, it has a very novel and attractive appearance, 
and although its peculiar sweet-meat flavour, which is 
perfectly distinct to that of any other fruit, may not 
be relished by every one when first tasted, nevertheless 
a liking for it is readily and generally acquired. The 
individual fruits, or “ fingers,” as they are sometimes 
termed, are fit for use as soon as they are ready to be 
gathered, and that is when they are quite coloured. 
Another indication of the time for gathering is 
invariably shown by the splitting of the rhind, after 
the manner of Figs, and they will fall soon after this 
takes place, if gathering is neglected. They do not 
keep in good condition for any length of time after 
they are ripe, approaching decay being visible by 
discolouration. 
The cultivation of the Musa is extremely simple, as 
with regard to soil it does not appear to be particular, 
for it thrives in that of almost any description 
commonly used for fruits, providing it is porous and 
sweet. A bed, however, into which its thong-like roots 
can freely ramify is preferable to pots, for it is a gross 
feeder, and delights in copious supplies of liquid 
manure when it is making its growth and swelling its 
fruit. Moreover it luxuriates in the high moist 
temperature favourable to other moisture-loving stove 
subjects, and enjoys daily syringing, from which its 
blossoms should be guarded, so that perfect fertilization 
may not be endangered. The fruits are produced in 
large clusters, but do not ripen simultaneously, but in 
a manner that is more serviceable, by yielding a 
continual supply extending over several weeks, more 
or less, according to the size of the clusters ; and the 
time from when they show until the first “fingers” 
are ripe, averages about five months.— C. 
SPRING GARDENING. 
Those of your readers who really love the art of 
gardening will, I feel sure, agree with me when I 
say that nothing is more enjoyable, interesting, and, 
I may add, edifying than a good arrangement of spring 
flowering plants. The bursting of the first buds of the 
Snowdrop, in company with the sheen of golden- 
yellow to be found only in the winter Aconite (Eranthis 
hyemalis), come as welcome as the spring itself, and 
from that time the number of flowering plants daily 
increases. Many there are who know little or nothing 
of spring gardening beyond the planting of such 
things as a few Daisies, Crocuses, Snowdrops, Tulips, 
and the like, which, of course, are all very well in 
their way and most acceptable, still they are as 
nothing compared with the great multitude of spring 
flowering plants which we possess, herbaceous, 
bulbous, Alpine, &c., all of which are equally eligible 
and effective in the spring garden, provided they are 
properly utilized. It is in this latter particular, 
however, the proper utilization and arrangement of 
the plants, that the secret of success in spring 
gardening is to be found, for without some knowledge 
of the plants, as to their time of flowering and general 
habit, then- partiality or otherwise for sun, shade, or 
moisture, and so on, they not unfrequently fail to 
give anything like an adequate idea of their value 
and effectiveness. • 
Spring gardening once fairly mastered will ever 
after create desires for new designs and combina¬ 
tions, fresh longings for extension and improvement, 
which latter is far more easily attained where 
summer bedding is not too eagerly sought after. 
Gorgeous though the summer flowering plants are, 
they fail to equal, much less surpass, the sumptuous 
arrays of floral wealth which it is possible to produce 
with common and, I may add, almost every-day 
plants, for it should always be remembered that no 
costly, rare, or choice plants are necessary for the 
