296 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
Jan. 10 th, 1885. 
Work to be Done in the Garden. —This is gener¬ 
ally considered a dull time of year, but for the gardener 
who looks at all forward it is a busy and active one, 
for there is much to be done now in most gardens. 
Where the transplanting and pruning has not been 
finished that must be seen to at once, and the rubbish 
heap should also have attention without delay. 
Rubbish is generally considered as of no use, and is 
got rid of, but if properly treated by being turned, so 
as to be thoroughly broken down and rotted, it is one 
of the most valuable ingredients anyone can have in 
a garden. To set free the gases and render it at once 
available for plants to feed on, lime should be thrown 
over and mixed up with it; and, as soon as frost 
comes it will then be ready for wheeling on to the 
land. This, where vacant, ought to have the surface 
thrown up rough to let the frost in, the disintegrating 
and sweetening influence of which is great and is very 
necessary on heavy soils, which should be manured 
early, but those of a light nature should only be 
manured just before they are wanted for cropping. 
The first things to be sown now are Peas and Beans. 
Of the former there are many kinds, all laying claim 
to be the earliest, but, after trying most of them, I 
have arrived at the conclusion that there are none 
better than Kentish Invicta for first gathering, to be 
followed on by William the First and Day’s Sunrise or 
Advancer, which, sown at the same time, come in after 
the Invicta and keep up a succession. In putting in 
Peas at this season a warm, sheltered spot should be 
chosen, and it is a good plan to cover the seed with a 
little fine dry soil or ashes, which will absorb any 
excess of moisture in the soil and assist them to 
germinate. Among Beans the Mazagan used to le 
considered the earliest, but it is not so, as the Seville 
Longpod comes in before it, and, therefore, this sort 
should be chosen and sown at once in a sunny place 
out in the open. Beck’s Dwarf Green Gem is valuable 
for growing on borders, as it only reaches a foot high 
and branches freely and bears profusely all up the 
stems. 
To repair edgings to walks where they are of Box, 
the quickest way is to use a spud to dig out the dead 
parts or gaps, which may then be filled in rapidly 
without disturbing much soil. For kitchen-gardens 
dead edgings are the best, as they may be planted 
behind with Violets, Gentians, Thrift, and many other 
suitable plants that will partly hide the stones or 
whatever is used, and in summer salt may be sown for 
the destruction of weeds, which could not be done if 
Box or other like edgings were grown. For the fronts 
of shrubbery borders or other similar places, nothing 
looks equal to a margin of grass, ranging from 1 ft. to 
2 ft. wide according to the width of the walk or ground 
behind, and a verge of the kind referred to may be 
easily kept, as the mowing-machine run over it once 
a week will keep it in excellent order. 
What spoils edgings is badly made or ill-drained 
walks, as stagnant water is fatal to living plants. Such 
being the ease, water should be carried off by gratings 
and drains, without which no walks are fit for use in 
the winter, as wet makes the gravel loose and rotten, 
and causes it to become full of weeds and moss. 
The readiest mode of carrying off the rainfall is to run 
a drain down the centre of the walk, and lead those 
from the gratings at the side to it, and if good gravei 
be used to surface the walks with, any so treated will 
remain firm and dry all the year round. 
To protect plants, there is nothing equal to fresh fallen 
leaves, the only difficulty with them being to keep 
them where placed, but this may be done by throwing 
over them a thin layer of straw, and to hide this some 
Evergreen branches may be stuck in thickly around. 
By managing thus, Pampas Grass, Tritomas, and all 
such like plants, of doubtful hardiness,may be rendered 
quite safe, however severe the weather may be. 
If the weather should set in wet there is plenty of 
work under cover, as all pots with plants in and those 
empty should be scrubbed or cleaned, and glass and 
paint washed, that full light may be let in to the 
houses or pits, besides which, it is essential to the 
health of the plants that they be cleared of all insects 
or dirt on the foliage, as any parasites or deposit 
there stops up the pores. Big leaved things, like 
India-rubber plants, Aralias, Palms, Camellias, Ac., 
may be sponged, and others with smaller foliage may 
be cleaned by laying them on their sides and syringing 
them with dilute Nicotine Soap, which is a capital 
insecticide, but, like all others, should be washed off 
after being on a few hours. 
Chrysanthemum culture: Summer-flowering 
Varieties. —These varieties of Chrysanthemum are 
now becoming general favourites with a large section 
of the public as well as the regular Chrysanthemum 
growers, and there can be no doubt as to their great 
value for border decoration, as they flower freely from 
July to November, and help to bridge over the time 
when flowers begin to get scarce. They are the best 
for ordinary culture out-of-doors, and are very easy to 
grow. Cuttings should be inserted during the month 
of February, and as soon as rooted they should be 
potted singly. If they are intended to be planted out 
they may be planted early in April. They require the 
same attention as to potting and pinching as previously 
given for the single varieties, but they can be bloomed 
in smaller sized pots. Good plants can be had in 
4J-in. pots by striking the cuttings in May, and they 
make very useful plants for mixing among other 
subjects in the greenhouse. 
The following general directions refer to all sections 
of the Chrysanthemum :—The soil for the final potting 
should consist of three parts of good loam and one cf 
well-decayed manure, with a sprinkling of sand and a 
handful of bone-dust and a little soot to each pot will 
be of benefit. 
After the buds commence showing, the plants will 
require to be regularly supplied with manure-water, 
but this should be given weak (about twice a week) at 
first, increasing the strength, and giving it oftener 
till the buds show colour, when it should be gradually 
withheld. An excellent liquid manure is made by 
putting into a tub a bushel of sheep’s droppings and 
about a peck of soot. Several kinds of patent 
manures are now sold, and a very good one, according 
to my experience, is the Blood and Bone Manure sold 
by Mr. Smyth, of 21, Goldsmiths’ Street, Drury Lane. 
I largely use it myself, and can strongly recommend 
it. It can be used in a liquid form with water, or if 
wet weather should set in, the plants can be top- 
dressed with it. I top-dressed some plants of the 
single varieties last season after I had cut the first 
blooms, and was able to cut a second lot of flowers as 
late as Christmas Day. 
Insects must be carefully looked after, especially 
earwigs, as these do great injury to the plants. If 
the plants also get infested with green fly, they should 
be dusted with tobacco-powder early in the morning, 
when the dew is on the plants. On the approach of 
frost, generally about the first week in October, the 
plants should be taken into the greenhouse, or be 
placed under some temporary covering, to protect 
them from wet and frost, but plenty of air should 
be given on all favourable occasions. 
Before concluding these notes, I will mention a few 
good varieties for amateurs to grow. 
Commencing with the summer-flowering sorts, 
eighteen good varieties are:—Anastasio, Bois Duval, 
Chrome Stella, Early Blush, Frederick Marronet, 
Frederick Pele, Illustration, La Petite Marie, La 
Vierge, Lyon, M. Pynaert - Van Geert, Mdme. C. 
Desgrange, Mdme. Picoul, Mons. A. Dufour, Mrs. 
Culhngford, Nanum, Souvenir d’un Ami, and Virginia. 
These will give a succession of bloom from July till 
November. 
Forty-eight good varieties for cut blooms are:— 
Incurved — Empress of India, Golden Empress of 
India, Princess of Wales, Barbara, Queen of England, 
Princess Teck, Venus, White Venus, Angelina, Lord 
Wolseley, White Beverley, Mr. Bunn, Mrs. Rundle, 
Mrs. Dixon, White Globe, Jardin des Plantes, Alfred 
Salter, Bronze Jardin des Plantes, Mrs. Heale, Prince 
of Wales, Prince Alfred, Nil Desperandum, Lord 
Alcester, and Jenane d’Arc, the two last-named 
should be in every collection. Japanese —Angele, 
Flamme de Punch, Mons. Moussilac, L’or du Rhin, 
Margot, Mastic, Roseum Superbum, Salterii, Comte 
de Germiny, Dr. Macary, Duchess of Albany, Fair- 
Maid of Guernsey, George Gordon, J. Delaux, Peter 
the Great, Mrs. Marsham, The Cossack, Lucifer, 
Rubra Striata, Soliel Levant, Thunberg, Venus, Boule 
d’Or, and Cri Kang. 
In growing plants for decorative purposes, care 
should be taken to select such as will give a variety 
of colour, and also a few early and late flowering 
varieties, and the following will be found a useful 
selection for an amateur’s greenhouse. 
The earliest to open is James Salter, followed by 
Elaine, Mrs. Rundle, George Glenny, Virgin Queen, 
Mdlle. Damaud, Elegans, Anais, Cedo Nulli, Rifleman, 
Gloria Mundi, Tokio, The Daimio; later varieties are, 
Princess Teck, Fleur de Marie, Soeur Melanie, Mary 
Major, Meg Merrilies, Grandiflora, Julie Lagravere, 
Progne, Snowdrop, Thunberg, Magnum Bonum, 
Countess of Granville, Ethel, and Sarnia. 
The foregoing remarks are intended to help young 
beginners in the cultivation of the Chrysanthemum, 
and I conclude by advising growers where practicable 
to visit each other, as a great deal more is learnt by 
observation than can be gained by reading.—IF. E. 
Boijce, Holloway. 
A Pretty Edging.— “Edging tiles,as a rule,” says 
a correspondent of a contemporary, “ have a hard and 
uninviting look. This rule was, however, decidedly 
broken in a case which I saw the other day. The 
garden was a small one in front of a house: there 
was an entrance gate in the centre, a flight of steps 
a'most in front of that, and a walk running to the 
right and left. Owing to the conformation of the 
ground, the walks were much lower than the soil 
level, which was retained by an edging tile set upon a 
brick. The tiles were of a plain substantial pattern, 
and painted stone colour. The bricks at the base were 
covered with cement, the whole having a clean and 
inviting appearance. This, though, was not the 
charm, which consisted of the manner in which the 
edging was planted. This was done about two years 
ago, and the plants consequently were well established, 
and showed well their character. The collection was 
a varied and well-selected one. It consisted of mossy 
Saxifrages, some of which had crept over and down 
the whole depth of the tile — crustaceous species, 
which had formed fine silvery bosses, nicely over¬ 
hanging the edge ; various species of Dianthus, some 
of which crept over and had reached the walk below; 
several Aubrietias—green curtains now, masses of 
charming blue by-and-bye, and the moderate growing 
sorts of Sun Rose. I also noticed the Gentian, Blue 
Cromwell, Litliospermum prostratum, the pretty 
Astragalus monspessulanus, Calandrinia umbellata, 
(which, by-the-bye, was wonderfully healthy), some 
dwarf Campanulas, Erythrfea diffusa, Iberis corifolia, 
Hippocrepis helvetica, and others. The whole were 
well arranged with reference to each other, and also 
with reference to the well-stocked borders behind, 
which were filled with good herbaceous plants and 
dwarf shrubs, and I shall most certainly make a 
pilgrimage next Daisy-time to see what must surely 
be a very charming little spot.” 
CATTLEYA AUREA. 
This lovely variety has no other claims to be 
considered distinct from the Costa Rican C. Dowiana 
than those gained for it by reason of the widely 
different locality from which it is obtained, and some 
consequent slight difference in habit and constitution. 
Had all the plants which have been sold under the 
name of C. aurea been true, we should long before this 
have made a much more intimate acquaintance with 
it, than by reason of its rarity we have hitherto been 
enabled to do; but unfortunately by far the greater 
part of them, after the years of nursing necessary to 
bring them into a flowering condition, have proved to 
be C. gigas. 
But this is easy to account for, if we refer to Mr. 
Butler’s remarks made when he first collected this 
yellow Cattleya in 1876 for Messrs. Jas. Backhouse & 
Son, of York. By them we learn that he discovered 
it growing on the Cordillera, to the west of the Upper 
Magdalena, in New Granada, in company with C. gigas, 
and it would, therefore, seem that the plant cannot be 
got true unless collected in flower. C. aurea, which 
requires precisely the same treatment as C. gigas, is 
said by most growers to be much easier to manage 
than C. Dowiana. Its flowers exhibit great variety in 
their markings, even the sepals and petals varying in 
