346 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
Jan. 31st, 1885. 
Fruit Culture under Glass.— Pines, which w ere 
subjected to a low temperature and somewhat dry 
atmosphere during the last fourteen weeks of the old 
year, preparatory to being “ started ” in the beginning 
of January, with a view to their yielding ripe fruit 
during the months of June, July and August, should 
have a night temperature of 65 degs. to 70 degs., 
according as the weather is cold or mild, and 5 degs. 
higher by day, with fire-heat, running it up 10 degs. 
higher with sun-heat, and a bottom heat of from 
80 degs. to 90 degs. should be aimed at. This can be 
done, if the pits are of the old-fashioned pigeon-hole 
type, by making up the linings at short intervals with 
fermenting material, or turning on the hot water m 
the bottom-heat pipes. The soil in which the plants 
are growing must be kept on the dry side, as well as 
the atmosphere of the house or pit, in order to prevent 
the plants from making growth instead of starting 
into fruit as desired. But as soon as the young fruit 
can be discerned emerging from the centre of the 
plants, sufficient tepid weak liquid manure must be 
given to thoroughly moisten the soil. 
Atmospheric moisture must be applied sparingly 
while the fruit is in flower, and air admitted more 
freely during that interesting stage of the plants’ 
growth, so that every pip of the fruit may be properly 
developed, after which a liberal supply of atmospheric 
moisture should be distributed over the plunging 
material and the paths, about the collars of the 
plants, and slightly overhead, the latter at closing 
time on bright afternoons. In doing so, avoid as 
much as possible letting water from the syringe or 
otherwise get into the “ crowns,” as that would cause 
them to become too large, and thereby detract rom 
the size and appearance of the fruit. Suecessional 
plants need not have a higher temperature than 
60 degs. to 65 degs. at night, with 5 degs. more by 
day and fire-heat, and 10 degs. higher with sun-heat. 
Five degrees less of heat will he congenial to the 
requirements of young plants and suckers. Give air 
at 80 degs., and take it off' early in the afternoon 
before the temperature has fallen below this point, 
damping the plunging material and paths at the 
same time. Air may be admitted to suecessional 
plants in them different stages of growth at from 
70 degs. to 75 degs. 
Peaches and Nectakines in flower should be 
subjected to a rather dry and airy atmosphere and 
the blossoms have a camel’s-hair brush passed over 
them about mid-day, w 7 hen the pollen is dry, with a 
view to securing a good set of fruit. A night 
temperature of from 45 degs. to 50 degs. should be 
maintained, according as the weather is cold or mild, 
55 degs. by day with fire-heat and 10 degs. higher by 
sun-heat.— H. W. W. 
History of the Pine Apple. — For this, the 
material is not abundant, or, I should rather say, 
good material. For the most voluminous writers upon 
this subject have evidently regarded their imagination 
as a fountain of facts. There are, however, a few well 
authenticated facts in regard to its historyFirst, 
Columbus found it growing wild on the Island of 
Guadaloupe in 1493. Second, Baron Yon Humboldt 
found it in the valley of the Orinocco, and elsewhere, 
in the uninhabited wilds of South America. Third, 
At an early period it was found naturalized in Africa, 
Asia, and the East Indies. This has led some to 
question its American origin. But the first fact named 
settles that beyond dispute, for whatever may be said 
of the passage of the ancestors of our aboriginal tribes 
across Behring Straits, or the Icelandic discoveries 
upon north-eastern borders, it is very certain that no 
voyager from any country where the Pine Apple could 
be grown, ever set foot upon the shores of either the 
American Continent or islands previous to the days of 
Columbus. It is equally certain that it has been 
widely distributed by the hand of man, and that, too, 
at an early period. It is said to have been found 
naturalized in Java as early as 1599. 
It was carried to Europe soon after its discovery in 
America by Columbus, and thence to regions beyond. 
But it is probable that it was carried to China from 
Peru by way of the Pacific, and thence distributed to 
surrounding regions. It is also probable that India 
derived its first supply from the European stock 
through Portuguese soon after its introduction into 
Europe, and thence extended to adjacent countries. 
Wherever introduced, it at once was conceded a high 
rank among the fruits of earth, because of its large 
size, its delightful aroma, and the abundance of its 
juice of a most exquisite flavour.— Eev. Jas. H. White, 
in Florida Dispatch. 
Dressing 1 Fruit-trees. —In dressing fruit-trees 
for the destruction of moss and lichens, as well as for 
the preservation of the buds from the attacks of birds, 
the most economical and effective method is by the 
application of fresh slacked lime with which is mixed 
a dash of soot and fresh cow-dung, for the purpose of 
darkening its colour and making it adhere to the 
branches. This mixture should be sufficiently diluted 
with water to allow of it being syringed on the trees. 
The syringe should be what is known as a one-nozzle 
syringe, without any small holes, otherwise the liquid 
will not pass freely through it. The sucker should 
also be composed of a brass ring, well packed with tow 
and tallow, instead of being a leather one, which 
quickly becomes dried up and spoiled by the hot lime 
water. The mixture can be made in a large tub, from 
which it can be conveyed in buckets where required. 
By this method a lad can thoroughly wash twelve fair¬ 
sized trees in a day, which with a painter’s brush 
would take him nearly a week to-accomplish. Fresh 
slacked dry lime is sometimes used for this purpose, 
by dusting it over the trees in damp or foggy weather; 
but by this means it is difficult to get the lime to 
adhere regularly to the branches, and many of them 
are missed altogether. Since I have practised this 
plan I have found no difficulty in quickly washing 
every tree in the garden as soon as they are pruned, 
thereby keeping the bark thoroughly clean and healthy. 
After this operation, the surface soil is raked off and 
burnt, and a surface-dressing of burnt earth mixed 
with a small quantity of shoddy is given, this is lightly 
pricked-over with a steel fork just to loosen the soil 
and the winter dressing is completed.— Scribo. 
Are Sunny Seasons Best for Colouring 
Fruit P—According to my observation, they are not. 
Probably no one will remember a brighter or sunnier 
year than 1884; but I am sure many will recollect 
seasons in w T hich Grapes, Peaches, Apples, Ac., were 
much higher in colour than last year. There are few 
better places in which to form a correct opinion on 
this point than at Shows where the best fruits from 
many parts are exhibited; but throughout all last 
year I did not, so far as I had an opportunity, see 
anything of extraordinary good colour. Indeed, if we 
look over the reports of Shows, we shall find in the 
majority of instances that the Grapes, especially Black 
Hamburghs and Muscats, were deficient in colour. 
In the orchard here, King of the Pippins Apple alw'ays 
does well. During the very bright weather in July and 
August we were looking forward to its being higher 
than usual in colour; but when we came to gather it 
in October we were surprised to find it much less red 
and bright than we have had it in what might be 
termed dull seasons, and this applied to many other 
varieties, and indeed to Apples in general in South 
Wales.— J. III., in The Field. 
->-$-<- 
Gros Colmar Grape. —Much has been written 
concerning the flavour of this Grape, and not always 
in its favour. A great many people contend that it is 
very coarse and tough, and that may be so where the 
Grape is not well ripened, but if started in good time in 
the year, say about March 1st, and kept steadily growing 
with the aid of fire heat until June, if the weather at 
that time is sufficiently hot to dispense with fire heat, 
the Grapes grown under such conditions will be 
found to be of much better flavour than some imagine. 
It is particularly adapted for invalids, better so than 
any other Grape I know. During, say, October, 
November, and December the skin is thin, it possesses 
a large amount of flesh, and is not so sweet as many 
other kinds, on which account it is very refreshing, 
much more so than a sweeter kind, which does not 
allay the thirst so well as one of brisker flavour.— 
E. Molyneux. 
Seasonable "Work in the Plant-houses.— 
February brings much work that cannot well be 
delayed, and of all work perhaps the most essential 
is that the propagating pits should be kept well 
filled. Of Bouvardias, Tree Carnations and Fuchsias, 
good cuttings put in now should make nice plants 
for flowering the same season. Where Solanum 
capsicastrum is usually grown from cuttings (and, 
by the way, this is the best method to secure 
compact well-berried plants) they should now be put 
in as soon as possible ; it is also a good time to 
propagate Abutilons, either the variegated varieties 
for bedding, or some of the best flowering varieties, 
which are very useful for the conservatory. A few 
seeds should be sown as early as convenience will 
allow, among which Gloxinia, Begonia (Tuberous) 
must not be omitted, but in any case where a good 
temperature cannot be regularly maintained, it will 
be better to sow a little later on. 
Flowering plants for forcing.—In introducing such 
plants as Deutzias, Lilacs, hardy Azaleas, &c., into 
heat, it is a great mistake to put them in a shady 
position or under other plants. It is best to place them 
where they get as much light and sun as possible, 
but the atmosphere should be kept moist, and the 
plants must on no account be allowed to become too 
dry in the pots. Dielytra spectabilis, like the 
Spiraeas, when forced, will start much better if the 
crowns are covered v>lth about 3 ins. of cocoa-nut 
refuse, covered in this w 7 ay, the plants may be placed 
under the stage or any other convenient place, until 
they are well started, when they must be placed in 
a light airy position. A high temperature means 
spoiling one of the most beautiful plants that flower 
in spring. 
Late Chrysanthemums. —At Basing Park, near 
Alton, Hants, I saw the other day (January 21st) some 
good useful blooms of Chrysanthemums, varieties 
which I had never seen, at least under the names 
given me by Mr. Smythe, the gardener. One was 
called Duchess, a white anemone-flowered variety, 
quite like Miss Margaret in shape and colour. 
Another one, also of the anemone type, bore the name 
of Mulberry, and is of the style and colour of Bijou. 
However, be they rightly or wrongly named, they are 
both useful kinds for late blooming, and I should be 
glad to know if any of your readers are acquainted 
with the varieties as named.— E. Mohjneux. 
Lilium auratum. —Most people are fond of this 
grand Lily, and it is a consolation to know that the 
supplies of the same are daily increasing, and the 
prices getting within the reach of almost all. The 
large importations announced weekly, and the mode¬ 
rate cost of small quantities as offered by our 
nurserymen and seedsmen, should place this Lily 
even in the hands of the cottager. Independent 
of the first cost, unlike many other imported bulbs, 
they yield much better returns under very ordinary 
circumstances. Those who have but one glass-house 
and a pit or two may grow 7 this plant to the greatest 
perfection, by potting up as soon as possible some 
strong bulbs, and for good sized single bulbs 7-in. or 
8-in. pots would be large enough. These should 
have a good number of crocks placed in the bottom 
for the first potting, after which the pots should be 
filled and pressed firm to within 3 ins. of the top, 
with a compost consisting of turfy peat and loam 
in equal parts, a small portion of well rotted manure 
and sufficient sand to keep the whole open. On this 
place the bulbs and sprinkle a little sand over them 
to keep them sound, then fill up with the compost 
above recommended. Bulbs placed four or five in 
a pot also make a grand show, and of necessity 
should be four or five times as large as those 
recommended for single bulbs. After the process 
of potting, they should receive a good watering 
through a rose, after which they may be plunged 
under a bed of ashes either in the open-air or 
under glass or shutters to w 7 ard off the rain. 
When they commence to grow in spring, they may 
either occupy a sheltered position in the open-air or 
