Jan. 31st, 1885. 
THE GAKDENING WOKLD. 
347 
be placed in a light position under glass in a cool 
structure; the latter is preferable. Those who have 
a garden but no glass should plant them out. Dig 
out a good sized hole in a sunny aspect, and as much 
sheltered as possible from high winds. If not well 
drained, provision should be made by placing a few 
inches of crocks or rubble of some kind at the bottom, 
on which place a similar compost to that recom¬ 
mended for potting purposes to within 3 ins. or 4 
ins. of the surface, on which place the bulbs and 
give them a slight covering of sand before covering 
them finally with the same kind of compost. A 
slight coat of ashes will protect them from frost, 
after which a stout peg should be placed in the 
centre of the clump to mark its whereabouts. When 
the bulbs begin to grow they should have a strong 
stake placed to them, to which the stems should be 
securely fastened at intervals as they grow, and if 
the autumn should be at all favourable, the operator 
will be rewarded with a rich display of gorgeous 
flowers.—IF. C. C. 
-- 
Soft-wooded Bedding Plants. —The time has 
arrived when we must look over our stock of soft- 
wooded bedding subjects and forward the work of 
propagating. To those who have a fixed frame over 
the pipes or other warming apparatus, provided it is 
suitably placed, the work of raising a quantity of 
young plants from cuttings is reduced to a minimum. 
Unfortunately, a good propagating frame is more the 
exception than the rule in gardens, and so many, like 
myself, have to do the best we can under the circum¬ 
stances. Happily there is one other good contrivance 
for the purpose which is within the reach of both 
amateur and professional gardeners, and that is the 
hot-bed made up of stable litter and tree-leaves, 
properly prepared by being several times turned over. 
The only objection to such a bed is the labour entailed 
in preparing the same and the short time at which it 
keeps of an uniform temperature. Such a bed answers 
for a great variety of subjects, such as Ageratums, 
Heliotropes, Irisines, Coleus, especially those intended 
for summer bedding, single and double. Petunias, 
Chrysanthemum frutescens in variety, and Lobelias 
of the speciosa section. The whole of the above do 
well in such a position, and when rooted more air 
may be admitted and the young plants removed to 
other quarters. Great care should be taken that the 
Coleus and Irisine do not get a chill. They should 
be removed to the stove or a Cucumber or Melon-pit. 
—IF. C. P. 
Double-flowered Bouvardias. —America would 
seem to have a monopoly as regards the production 
of double-flowered Bouvardias. The first of this class, 
the white Alfred Neuner, originated there; then, 
after a time, it w T as succeeded by another, President 
Garfield, a counterpart, except in colour, of the first- 
named, the blossoms of the newcomer being of a 
delicate shade of pink. Now a third kind, Thomas 
Meehan, has made its appearance from the same 
source, with flowers of a bright vermilion-red colour, 
thus forming a. series of three distinct double-flowered 
Bouvardias. This newcomer, as far as it has yet 
been observed, seems to be of good free habit of 
growth, and as prolific in the production of flowers as 
the others. Its blooms do not appear to be quite so 
double in character as those of the other two, but 
perhaps this may be the result of rapid propagation, 
thereby weakening the constitution of the plant. If 
this surmise is correct, when it has become better 
established the flowers will show then - true character 
and, in all probability, will be as double as those of 
its predecessors. These double Bouvardias are very 
valuable for cutting, as their blossoms last much 
longer in that state than those of the single varieties, 
and in the smaller arrangements, such as button-hole 
bouquets, wreaths, sprays, &c., they are now exten¬ 
sively employed.— H. P., in The Field. 
A New Variety on Mignonette. —Mr. William 
Thompson, of Ipswich, states that Beseda odorata, 
var. Machet, appears to have a decided advantage 
over other varieties, owing to its dwarf vigorous growth, 
which renders it well adapted to pot culture. It is of 
compact pyramidal habit, furnished with thick dark 
green foliage, and throws up numerous stout flower 
s:alks, terminated by massive spikes of highly fragrant 
red flowers. 
The Kitchen-Gardener’s Calendar. —The work 
of seed-sowing and planting in the kitchen-garden 
may now be said to have commenced, and each week 
the freshly-stirred soil, with labels bearing the names 
of the crops and date of sowing and planting attached, 
will serve to show that activity increases in this as in 
all other departments of the garden. Make a planting 
of Lettuces on a south border in rows 1 ft. apart, and 
the plants the same distance asunder in the rows. 
Scratch a surface dressing of fresh soot into the ground 
with a rake before putting out the plants, which will 
render the soil distasteful to grubs as well as fertilize 
it. The jdants should be taken up and planted care¬ 
fully with a trowel, and the soil be pressed firmly 
about the roots; after which the ravages of slugs 
must be guarded against by making a trail of a 
mixture of fresh soot and lime between the plants and 
the box edging, or in whatever direction the depre¬ 
dators are expected to approach from. 
Make a small planting of Cauliflowers in drills 3 ins. 
deep and 2 ft. apart, between the rows of Peas sowm as 
advised at p. 315. Plants of Dean’s Snowball and 
Early London, which have been wintered in 3-in. pots, 
as recommended in your number for September 6th 
last, should be used for this planting, turning them 
out of the pots and planting them carefully without 
disturbing the roots any more than is necessary, so as 
to reduce the chances of their experiencing a check. 
The plants should be let well down to the lower leaves, 
the soil be made firm about them, and be afterwards 
protected from frosts and cutting winds by Spruce 
boughs being stuck firmly in the ground on either side 
the plants. Sow some Nantes Horn Carrot seed 
adjoining the previous sowing. 
Forcing Department.— Make a sowing of Hatha¬ 
way’s Excelsior or Stamfordian Tomato, and shift 
plants raised from seed sown in October, as they 
require more room at the roots. Secure the stems to 
sticks, pinch out all lateral growths at one joint, and 
give them a night temperature of 55 degs. to 60 degs. 
and 65 degs. to 70 degs. by day, running up the 
temperature to 80 degs. with sun-heat and a genial 
atmospheric moisture at closing time. Sow a pinch of 
Turner’s Incomparable or Sandringham White Celery 
in a pan, cover the seed lightly, and place in a hot¬ 
bed. See that Potatos, Baclishes, Carrots, Asparagus, 
seedling plants of Cabbage, Cauliflower, Brussels 
Sprouts, and Lettuce growing in pits and hot-beds 
have sufficient air admitted to prevent them from 
becoming drawn.— H. IF. Ward , Longford Castle. 
Tomatos under Glass. —At p. 334, “ J. E. S.” 
asks several questions respecting the indoor culture 
of Tomatos, to which I will briefly reply. 1. He may 
use any size pot from 8-in. upwards, and all other 
things being equal, the amount of the produce will 
in a measure correspond with the amount of soil the 
plants have to grow in. As a rule, however, the 12-in. 
pot is the most convenient size, and two or three 
plants may be put in one of those dimensions. 2. 
Stop them when they reach the desired height, and 
remove all the laterals as they appear. Under this 
arrangement, the crop is confined to the fruits pro¬ 
duced on the main stem. It is true he may allow 
some of the strongest of the laterals to fruit, but in 
that case he must thrust his stakes into the pot 
obliquely, so as to allow more space in the centre ; 
but I am not sure if an extra plant or two would not 
give far more satisfactory results, as much finer 
fruit will be produced by that method and the plants 
do not remain about so long as when laterals are 
allowed to fruit. 3. Bunches of young fruit need not 
be thinned unless the fruit is required for exhibition 
purposes. 4. One stake is sufficient for each plant, 
and a trellis is decidedly the best, or if “ J. E. S.” 
does not wish to shade the whole of his house, he may 
train them up wires after the manner of vines. If he 
adopts this method, one plant will be sufficient in a 
pot, as he can retain all the shoots which show fruit, 
and remove all the barren ones. We have selected 
this plan because it interferes so little with our other 
cultural arrangements, though by the time the plants 
are ready to be cleared out, they have extended about 
15 ft. 5. As to the quantity of fruit a single plant in 
a pot may carry, I have no exact idea, but I do know 
that the plant is very obliging, and I never recollect 
an instance in which it refused to carry any load I 
could saddle upon it. The fruits when once set, 
neither drop off nor shrivel, but struggle on till they 
have reached maturity (providing conditions are 
favourable), but of various sizes of course, yet without 
distinction of flavour, qualities that cannot be credited 
to but few other fruit-bearing plants. If it is a question 
of profit that has prompted your correspondent to put 
this query, I think the Tomato will yield him as 
good a return for his labour as any plant he can 
grow. 6. Liquid manure is most desirable, but should 
not be applied till the plants show the need of it. 
This will be when its energies are taxed by the 
swelling of a number of fruits. It is possible even to 
give them too much clear water before they begin to 
bear fruit, as it disposes them to grow unduly and 
make long joints, as well as delaying their fruiting. 
I have observed on several occasions surplus plants 
in small pots that have been standing about, little 
cared for and half perished for want of water, show 
fruit long before others of the same age, in large pots, 
that were constantly watered and otherwise attended 
to. We therefore grow them “ hard ” in their early 
stage, and confine them to 8-in. pots till there are 
fruit set.—IF. P. E. 
Rhubarb Forcing. —To have a good supply of 
early forced Bhubarb it is of primary importance to 
have a good stock of well-grown roots, such as can be 
forced with a minimum of trouble and which can be 
depended upon as certain to give a liberal supply in 
a very short tune. One reads in advertisements of 
kinds which are of superior merit, and which are also 
said to be new. We have tried a number of them, 
and find in some cases that they are old friends under 
new names. But the kind which I have the highest 
opinion of for early work is Prince Albert. It seems 
to ripen its roots early, and can be forced into use 
almost as soon as the Bhubarb in the open ground 
loses its leaves. Whether covered with warm 
material and pots in the open, placed in a Mushroom- 
house, under the stages of hot-houses, or forced in 
any other makeshift contrivance, it is always certain 
to produce an abundance of fine-flavoured and high- 
coloured stalks. It is often supposed that forcing the 
roots one year after another leads to failure. My 
experience is that when the roots are forced in this way, 
well cared for when removed from their forcing 
quarters, planted, protected, and tended with care, 
they are well prepared for the following season’s work. 
It is the neglect that the roots are often subjected to 
when forcing is over which is the cause of their being 
■weakened and to necessitate a second year’s growth 
before they can be forced again. The old Victoria we 
use as a second early, and by these two kinds a good 
supply is kept up from November till there is plenty 
in the open ground. Bhubarb grown in heat, with 
plenty of light and air, is very superior to that which 
is forced in close, dark positions.— 21. T. 
-»*<-- 
Hackwood Park Prolific Tomato. —This is 
one of the best Tomatos with which I am acquainted. 
It is a very free bearer, sets well, is of good size and 
shape, and a vigorous grower; in fact, it has all the 
properties which a good Tomato ought to possess.— 
E. Molyneux, The Gardens, Sivanmore Park, Bishops 
Waltham. 
—-- ~o — 
Crocus vitelltnus. —It is somewhat difficult to 
say whether this is a spring or autumnal flowering 
species, as solitary blooms begin to appear at the 
end of November, and others keep appearing until 
February. The other day we saw a clump with a 
number of its pretty orange-coloured flowers in 
perfection, and though the line drawn between 
autumnal and spring-flowering species is a purely 
arbitrary one—often emphasized in this country by 
several weeks of frost and snow—still we do not 
hesitate to place it as the earliest of the spring- 
flowering section. It is a native of Syria and 
Northern Palestine. Like some other orange-coloured 
species, it varies from self-coloured to orange, with 
bronze-coloured featherings. The anthers are yellow, 
and the finely divided stigmata scarlet.—A'. 
