360 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
With advancing days and more light, damp will 
become less troublesome, as when the sun breaks 
through, more air may be given than it has been safe 
to admit for some time past, but in opening the lights 
or ventilators, it is necessary to exercise some amount 
of care not to let in cold cutting winds, which, at this 
season, often prevail during bright weather, and if let 
into a house, among tender plants, do a great deal of 
harm to the flowers and foliage. This being so, it is 
far better to allow the temperature to run up a little 
higher than usual at such times, than to run any risk 
from sharp draughts, but though extra sun-heat does 
little or no harm, that from flues or pipes should be 
kept down to the lowest degree, as it is very drying 
when assisted by the solar rays, and, by creating a too 
arid atmosphere, is bad for the plants. 
As cleanliness is of the first importance with these, 
any that have large leaves should be sponged with 
clear soapy water, and the sponge frequently dipped 
and washed during the operation, so as to free it of all 
dirt, when it will put quite a gloss or polish on the 
foliage, and 'rid the pores or respiratory organs of the 
dust and other deposit that chokes them. Not only 
ought the plants to be clean, but it is equally necessary 
to have the pots in the same state, as when covered 
with green, the soil soon gets in a sour inert condition, 
and the roots quickly suffer. 
Although it is full early as yet to do much in the 
way of propagation, there are a few things that 
cannot well be got in too early, and among these are 
cuttings of the Solanum capsicastrum, which should 
be chosen from the best berried kinds, and taken off 
about 3 ins. long, when, after being trimmed in the 
usual manner, they may be inserted in sharp sandy 
soil, and if then covered with a bell glass, and kept 
close in a warm place, they will soon strike and be fit 
for potting off singly to be grown on as standards or 
bushes. Old plants that have their berries shrivelled 
or shabby, should be pruned hard back, and be kept 
rather dry till they break again, when they may be 
shaken from the old soil and repotted in new, ready 
for planting out by-and-bye, or plunging out in the 
open. 
Begonias of the tuberous-rooted kinds are most 
valuable decorative subjects, and to prolong the season 
of these, some may now be started by giving a little 
water and placing them where they can get warmth, 
and when they break they may be cut through and 
divided, as all that is necessary is to have a shoot to 
each piece of tuber to make separate plants of the 
parts. 
Dahlias require similar treatment, and may now be 
started in the same way, but as the single kinds are 
now so much in vogue and come so readily from 
seed, it is a good plan to increase the stock of these 
and raise fresh plants by sowing, and if this is done 
at once, the plants will be large and strong enough 
for planting by the end of May, and to flower well 
all through the summer and autu mn . 
PITS AND FRAMES. 
These may now be turned to very profitable account 
especially if the pits happen to be heated, as Aspara¬ 
gus may be started and forced, Cucumbers and Melons 
raised and planted, while the frames will be available 
for placing on fermenting material made up in beds, 
when seeds of various descriptions may be raised 
therein—Carrots sown and grown, and Potatos planted, 
or bedding stuff propagated, and a good stock of 
plants thus got up for the garden. In the lifting of 
Asparagus, it should be got up carefully by the aid, 
of a strong fork, so as to secure all the roots, and the 
crowns then placed closely together in the frame on 
a few inches of light soil and filled between with the 
same, when, if the lights are put on and kept quite 
close, the plants will soon start, and the heads quickly 
be ready for cutting. 
To be successful with Melons or Cucumbers, it is 
necessary to have a good brisk heat, both above and 
below, the proper temperature of the bed being from 
75 degs. to 85 degs., and that of the top 10 degs. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
less, and if these degrees can be maintained with a 
fair amount of regularity, the plants are sure to do 
well, that is, provided the atmosphere suits them. 
To bring it to the condition most favourable, it must 
be made moist, and kept in that state, either by 
frequent syringing or allowing the escape of steam 
from evaporating pans on the pipes or flues, or letting 
up that from the bed, the latter being the most genial 
and agreeable on account of being impregnated with 
ammonia, which both Melons and Cucumbers like. 
Cucumbers do best in rough fresh soil, coarsely 
chopped, and mixed with a little leaf-mould, and the 
heap or ridge on which they are planted laid loose 
and light, but though Melons require similar material, 
it is better for them when trodden and made firm, or 
they will grow too rampant and fail to fruit freely. 
The seeds that ought to be sown now, and raised in 
hot-beds, are Solanum capsicastrum, Acacia lophantha, 
Centaurea candidissima, and Grevillea robusta, which 
take a long time to germinate, and are plants of 
sterling merit, either for rooms, planting out in beds, 
or for decorating greenhouses, as all are of a 
highly ornamental character, the Acacia and Grevillea 
being very fern-like and elegant both in foliage and 
habit. To expedite the seeds coming up, it is a good 
plan to soak them in warm water twelve hours before 
sowing, and if then placed in sandy soil in brisk heat, 
they will be up in a month or so, and soon after be 
ready for potting. 
FRUIT AND VEGETABLE GARDENS. 
As the season is now getting late for transplanting, 
the removal of fruit-trees and bushes ought to be 
brought to a close or they will start but feebly, and if 
large, and the weather sets in dry by-and-bye, they 
may die altogether. To prevent this and save them 
suffering any more than can be helped, they should be 
mulched round by having some half-rotten manure 
laid on the ground over the roots, and to keep the 
plants quite steady it is necessary that they should be 
securely staked or tied, so as to prevent wind-waving, 
which is destructive to the young roots on account of 
the strain and friction brought to bear on them, when 
the tops sway to and fro. 
The way to treat Raspberry plantations is to mulch, 
and not dig or fork among the plants, as is too often 
done, whereby the surface roots are destroyed, which 
is productive of much harm, as they are the principal 
feeders. The same remarks apply with even more 
force to Strawberries, which, in many cases, are 
badly used, as not only are the rows dug between, 
but the plants are stripped of their foliage, and the 
crowns and hearts thus laid bare to the inclemency of 
the winter and spring, when the cutting winds and 
hard frosts dry up and almost perish them, leaving 
them in a low state of vitality and too weak to carry 
much fruit. Instead of denuding them of their leaves, 
they should be left as they are, and not be dug between, 
but have a good top-dressing of soil and manure spread 
amongst them over the ground, which, by encouraging 
fresh surface fibres and feeding the old, will add 
immensely to the strength of the plants and enable 
them to send up fine trusses of bloom. 
Peas that are through the ground will need close 
watching to keep them from the attacks of sparrows, 
and those fresh sown will require equal care to prevent 
the attacks of mice, the best remedy against these 
being to catch them and kill them, which may easily 
be done by baited traps, and the sparrows may be 
scared away by straining three or four rows of black 
cotton just over the tops of the rows. To have early 
Lettuces, Cauliflowers, and Celery, a pinch of seed of 
each must be sown thinly in a pan or shallow box and 
placed in heat, where the soil should be kept just 
moist by an occasional sprinkling, which will soon 
bring the young plants up, when they should be stood 
near the glass, so as to have full light, and to keep 
them from drawing. 
-hh- 
Epacris onosmseflora flore-pleno. — The 
double form of this Epacris is a very desirable 
plant, both for pot plants and also for cutting from. 
The habit is dwarf, and the very double pure white 
flowers last a long time in perfection. Each flower is 
developed in the axil of a small bright green leaf 
which sets the flower off to advantage, and these leafy 
little spikes have a very graceful appearance. 
Feb. 7th, 1885. 
Hardy Evergreen Plants under Trees. —In 
not a few gardens there are to be found places under 
trees where it is very difficult to induce grass to grow, 
and if it is attempted to grow turf, it is necessary to 
renew it every season in spring. Under the shade of 
large horizontal branches of Cedars it is extremely 
difficult to induce anything to grow unless it be the 
common English Ivy, and the minor form of the common 
Periwinkle. The evergreen, St. John’s Wort, Hyperi¬ 
cum calycinum, is sometimes used for the purpose, but 
it is not so good as either of the preceding, although 
it grows freely and increases rapidly in any ordinary 
soil. The Ivy is the best, because the large leaves 
always look fresh and green. Under the spreading 
branches of the venerable Cedars at Gunnersbury 
Park, it does grandly, and is one of the features of the 
place. If walls, stumps, or trellises have to be clothed 
with something evergreen, then the Irish Ivy and the 
large-leaved Hedera Regneriana should be employed; 
both grow very freely, and are decidedly handsome 
and effective. It is well to give these plants a little 
surface dressing at times, but not over-doing it. As 
a matter of course, the leaves which drop from 
the over-hanging trees, faHing among the carpet of 
plants beneath, generaUy rot, and make an excellent 
fertilizing material, which is decidedly helpful to 
them.— E. IF. 
Watering Plants. —One is often asked, “ How 
often should I water so and so?” naming some 
favourite plant, as if there were a fixed time for this 
operation. I am convinced it is from some notion 
of this kind that so many failures arise. They say to 
themselves, “Well, I am not quite sure if my plant 
needs water yet or not; but, to make certain, 111 just 
give a little drop.” And there is exactly where the 
danger lies. These constant “wee drops” are the 
ruin of more lives than those of plants, I am afraid. 
If water is needed at all, give it in abundance; if it is 
not needed, better give none. As the subject is of 
some importance, a few hints regarding it may not be 
out of place. But, after all, experience is the only 
safe guide in the operation. When a plant is too dry, 
the roots, as a matter of course, cannot attract 
sufficient moisture to counterbalance the evaporation 
which takes place through the leaves, and it droops, 
or, as it is technically termed, “ flags.” On the other 
hand, if a plant is watered too freely, the soil around 
its roots becomes sodden and impervious to the air, 
the leaves turn yellow, and the whole plant becomes 
weakly and out of health. Thus, an equable state of 
moisture is desirable. There are three ways by which 
you may know when your plants need water—1st, by 
the general appearance of the soil, or feeling it with 
your finger; 2nd, by rapping the pot with your 
knuckles, the pot having a sharp ringing sound when 
dry, and a dull, heavy one when wet; and, 3rd, by 
lifting the pots and testing then- weight, wet soil 
being, of course, much heavier than dry soil. By 
any of these means, with practice and observation, 
you will soon learn the right system to adopt. This 
matter of watering I have found to be a great 
stumbling-block with many; possibly because it is 
the one thing oftenest requiring attention.— It. Lindsay, 
Edinburgh, in Forestry. 
MAGNOLIA CAMPBELLII. 
This magnificent species, said to be in every respect, 
except in having deciduous leaves, the noblest species 
of the genus, is figured in the January number of The 
Botanical Magazine. It is a native of the Eastern Hima¬ 
laya, and before the destruction of the forests which 
clothed the higher elevations of the outer flanks of 
the Sikkim ranges was by far the most notable tree of 
the district. Sir Joseph Hooker remarks :—“ I have 
seen the flanks of the mountains rose-coloured in 
spring from its abundance and its habit of flowering 
before the development of the leaves.” Thirty years 
ago it was one of the commonest trees near 
Darjeeling, at elevations of 8,000 ft. to 9,000 ft., 
though now, according to Gamble, it is becoming 
scarce. It is allied to M. Yulan and other deciduous 
species, but in its arborescent habit it has no rival. 
The trunk grows to 80 ft. high, the bark is dark, that 
of the branches being nearly black. The flowers 
measure 10 ins. in diameter, and the colour varies 
from delicate to deep rose. Sometimes four or five 
