Feb. 21st, 1885. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
395 
The Kitchen Gardener’s Calendar.— Carrots 
(Long Surrey and Altrincham are good varieties for a 
general crop) and Parsnips (Hollow Crown and The 
Student) should be sown in the manner recommended 
for Onions at p. 379, except that the rows should be 
further apart—say from 15 ins. to 18 ins. between 
each row. Also make a sowing of Early Purple Top 
Munich Turnip in light soil, on a warm border, in 
drills 1 in. deep and 12 ins. to 15 ins. asunder,— 
always, of course, assuming that the ground is in a 
proper condition (as indicated in last week’s Calendar) 
for the reception of the seeds. I may here remark 
that where the soot resulting from the periodical 
sweeping of the chimneys is saved and kept in a dry 
place for use in the garden, as it most certainly should 
be, a little of that fertilizing and purifying agent 
should be strewn over the ground prior to drawing the 
drills for Onions, Carrots, Parsnips, and Turnips (as 
these crops are more subject to the attacks of wire- 
worm than any others), and before making plantations 
of Lettuce, with the same object in view, the rendering 
of the soil distasteful to grubs, &c., as well as to 
enrich it. 
Clear the ground of old Cabbage and Broccoli 
stumps, to make way for a planting of Potatos, then, 
without the addition of any stable-yard manure, dig 
the ground and afterwards draw drills about 4 ins. 
deep and 2 ft. apart, and in these, if the soil is 
considered deficient in fertility, strew a little Peruvian 
Guano, or, what is better still, Beeson’s Manure, prior 
to setting the tubers of such approved varieties as 
Teitch’s Ashleaf Kidney, Schoolmaster, and Sutton’s 
Beading Hero, at from 7 ins. to 9 ins. from each other. 
Thin out autumn-sown Onions to from 4 ins. to 6 ins. 
apart in the rows, and lay in the thinnings for future 
use, or if necessary to increase the crop transplant 
them the same depth in the ground as they are now, 
and in rows at the same distance apart. Afterwards, 
if weather permit, run the Dutch hoe been the rows 
so thinned, also between the rows of Spinach, or 
wherever seedling weeds are putting in an appear¬ 
ance. 
Forcing Department. —Pot off young Tomato 
plants singly into 3-in. pots, and grow on in heat near 
the glass where they can have a little air admitted 
when necessary to secure a sturdy growth. As young 
Celery plants become large enough to handle prick 
them out 4 ins. apart in shallow boxes, having a layer 
of rotten dung underneath 1 in. to 2 ins. thick of fine 
soil, water and shade from bright sunshine for a few 
days until the roots have taken to the soil, and 
gradually harden off the plants as the time for finally 
planting them out approaches. Sow a pinch of 
Curled Parsley in a box for transplanting in the open 
later on. By following this method of procedure 
space is not only greatly economized, but quicker 
and equally good results are secured.— H. IF. Ward. 
The Negro Dwarf French Bean. —What an 
interesting study it would be to trace the origin of the 
various Dwarf and Bunning Kidney Beans now in 
cultivation, and by what means they found their way 
into cultivation. The Negro Dwarf Bean is remark¬ 
able for the] shining blackness of its seeds when in a 
dry state, and they are among the smallest of this 
group of Beans. It is among the oldest varieties in 
cultivation, and it is a great favourite among some of 
the market gardeners around London. A sub-variety 
of this, probably at one time a selection from it, is the 
Negro Longpod. The dried Beans are of a different 
shape, and larger, longer, and flatter, producing long 
handsome pods that are fine for exhibition purposes. 
This is a wonderfully fine garden Bean, bearing well, 
and producing a good crop of tender pods. A very fine 
selection from this is known as the Monster Negro 
Long-podded Dwarf Bean, which originated, we think, 
with Messrs. Hurst & Son, of Houndsditch, and was 
awarded a First-Class Certificate of Merit by the Boyal 
Horticultural Society. This fine variety should be 
well selected, as this is the only way of keeping the 
stock up to its proper level. Gardeners will find it 
not only a fine variety for the table, but one also well 
adapted for exhibition purposes. It is well to top the 
leading shoots when this variety is grown in strong 
soil.— Quo. 
Leeks and Onions for Exhibition. — “An 
Anxious One” (see p. 382) if he wishes to “catch 
the judge’s eye ” this year with Leeks and Onions, will 
have no time to lose. There may be secrets in the 
culture of these that he is not acquainted with, but 
there is nothing that any amateur will find at all 
difficult. As it is rather late for working the seed¬ 
lings from seed pans or boxes, he had better start 
them in small pots. Take small 60-size pots, put in 
one flat crock to cover the hole, a pinch of moss for 
drainage, and fill up the pots with a compost of three 
parts rotten turfy loam, one part leaf-mould, and one 
part well decayed old manure. He ought to make up 
a good heap of this for use through the season, and 
if he can add a little guano or bone dust it will repay 
him to do so. Press the soil down gently in the pots, 
give a good soaking and let them stand to drain. 
When dry enough, sow about three seeds on the top 
of each pot, covering lightly with a pinch of the 
compost and plunge them in a hotbed. As soon as 
you can handle the seedlings, thin them out to one in 
each pot. As the pots begin to get full of roots, 
shift the plants on into 4-in. pots, keeping them all 
the time supplied with weak liquid manure. About 
the middle of April begin to harden them off for 
planting out, and have the trenches for the Leeks and 
the beds for the Onions ready by the end of the 
month. Dig out the trenches for the Leeks the'same 
as for Celery, and when the plants are ready, fill up 
these trenches with fresh horse droppings that you 
are sure will heat well. Cover that over with an inch 
or two of rotten manure, spread your heap of compost 
over the top 10 ins. to 12 ins. deep, and then make 
holes in that in which to turn out the plants. Plant 
them a foot apart, cross-wise of the trench. 
No manure water will be required for the Leeks, 
water from a stagnant pond being best; and the 
ridge must be well and thoroughly soaked every time 
it lequires it. A light sprinkling overhead occasion¬ 
ally will do good. Blanching must begin as soon as 
the plants have got into rapid growth, and must be 
repeated every three weeks till a month before the 
Show season. Two boards placed on edge -will bo 
found a saving of time, labour and soil in blanching, 
and the soil lying in the space between the boards 
should always have a level surface so as to allow of 
the water getting down to all parts alike. 
The beds for the Onion plants should be about 3 ft. 
wide, and three furrows, 8 ins. to 10 ins. deep, should 
be opened through the length of them, to be after¬ 
wards filled up with the compost before mentioned. 
The beds should then be levelled over and holes made 
for the balls of soil and roots in the pots ; 9 ins. to 
12 ins. apart will be a good distance for the plants in 
the rows. After planting, tread the soil firmly up to 
the plants and level off with a rake. Take care to 
keep the bulbs well up to the surface, or they will 
grow thick-necked. Liquid manure from sheep’s- 
dung, to which may be added a handful of salt 
occasionally, should be used once a week during the 
growing season, taking care to leave it off as the bulbs 
approach maturity. Good standard sorts of Leeks for 
exhibition are Henry’s Prize and Dobbie’s Champion. 
Two good Exhibition Onions are—Improved Banbury 
(flat), and Bedfordshire Champion (round).— “Ex- 
Sussex.” 
SELECT VEGETABLES. 
(Continued from p. 327.) 
Lettuces. 
The number of varieties of Lettuce in existence is 
very large, although in this country it may be said 
that the cultivation is confined to a very few, but 
then England—from its cooler climate, maybe—is not 
a salad-eating country. In France, Germany, &c., 
Lettuces are used in much greater abundance, and 
many of the varieties that we despise are held in the 
highest esteem. As a general rule, the Cos Lettuces 
with their crisp, fleshy leaves, and the Cabbage varieties 
partaking of the same character, are with us most 
appreciated, whilst on the Continent the soft-leaved 
“ buttery ” varieties are the favourites. The varieties 
of Lettuces are first divisible into two primary 
classes—1. Cabbage Lettuce, 2. Cos Lettuce—and 
these again according to the seasons for which they 
are most suitable—certain varieties being much better 
adapted for particular seasons than others. To 
maintain a full supply of the best Lettuces throughout 
the year, the following may be grown with advantage, 
although for an ordinary supply much fewer may 
suffice:— 
Cutting Lettuces. 
1. Small Cutting. 
2. Common Green. 
3. Crisped Small Earlt. 
These varieties are grown to cut very early when 
having only a few green leaves and no heart. They 
are not much used in this country. 
Spring Cabbage Lettuces. 
1. Tom Thumb, or Stone Tennis Ball, 
2. Dwarf Green, very early. 
No. 1 is well known and produces small, very solid 
hearts, of fine quality. 
Summer or Autumn Lettuces. 
1. Malta or Drumhead. 
2. Neapolitan. 
3. White Chavigny. 
4. Marvel or Bed Bossin. 
No. 1 produces large hearts, is very crisp, tender, 
and excellent. No. 2 is also very large, very crisp and 
tender, of the same character as No. 1. No. 3 has 
large solid heads, soft and buttery, and of excellent 
quality. It stands the dry weather well. No. 4 is of 
a similar character to No. 3, tender and excellent; 
the outer leaves reddish-bronze, which by some is 
objected to. 
Winter Cabbage Lettuces. 
1. Hammersmith or Hardy Green. 
2. Grand Admiral. 
3. Brown Dutch. 
No. 1 is a well-known variety, producing small 
solid hearts, which stand the winter well. No. 2 is a 
grand sort, producing large solid hearts, and is very 
hardy. 
Cos Lettuces. 
1. White Paris. 
2. Green Paris. 
3. Hick’s Hardy. 
4. Bath Cos Ne Plus Ultra. 
No. 1 is the Lettuce par excellence that is most 
grown and appreciated in this country for general 
summer use. No. 2 is a dark green variety of the 
same, standing the dry weather better. No. 3 is a 
hardy green variety, standing the winter well, and 
producing fine large hearts; a very desirable sort. 
No. 4 is very hardy, and produces fine solid hearts of 
excellent quality, A very desirable sort to cultivate. 
Excepting for special purposes, the following may 
be found sufficient:— 
1. Tom Thumb Cabbage. 
2. Neapolitan Cabbage. 
3. White Chavigny Cabbage. 
4. Grand Admiral Cabbage. 
5. White Paris Cos. 
6. Bath Cos. 
Onions. 
In making a selection of Onions, the properties 
most desirable to secure are those of size and keeping, 
and next that of early bulbing—that of flavour or 
quality is not of material consequence, albeit the 
qualities of Onions grown in this country are much 
alike. The following may be relied on :— 
1. Queen or Early Silverskin. 
2. White Spanish or Beading. 
3. Giant Zittau or Danvers. 
4. Trebons. 
5. Bed Wethersfield. 
No. 1 produces small white bulbs very early, which 
are excellent for early salads, or for pickling purposes. 
It should be sown in August or September thickly, 
and not be thinned. No. 2 is the Onion in most 
general cultivation, and may be obtained under a 
great variety of names, more or less pure. It is one 
of the best keeping varieties. No. 3 is a large and 
fine variety somewhat of the same character as No. 1, 
and keeps well. No. 4 is a very large and excellent 
sort, suitable for summer and autumn use. It should 
be sown in autumn. No. 5 is red-skinned, and one of 
the latest keeping Onions in cultivation.— B. 
