March 7th, 1885. 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
427 
extra attention, which they require to have them in 
really good condition. 
-- 
Triteleia uniflora. —This pretty little hardy 
bulbous plant does not appear to be so generally grown 
as it ought to be. For chaste beauty, and freedom of 
blooming, it has not many equals ; flowering as it does 
from Christmas to April in a warm greenhouse. To 
have it in bloom by Christmas, it should be potted in 
August in peaty soil, and the pots be plunged in a cold 
frame, where they may remain until the middle or end 
of November, when they should be shifted into warmer 
quarters; and then they will soon begin to throw up their 
beautiful blooms, not by ones and twos, but in dozens. 
We have some in 5-in. pots which commenced to 
bloom early in December, and which are still carrying 
some 2 or 3 doz. blooms to each pot. Bulbous plants 
that will flower for so long a time at this dull season 
of the year cannot be too widely known.— J. TV. L. 
The Night Flowering Stock.— I am tempted to 
ask whether Mathiola bicornis is generally known, 
because it is only during the last three years that I 
have any recollection of seeing the plant. To the eye 
the plant has little or nothing to recommend it, being 
a small growing plant by comparison with the ordinary 
stocks, but the odour given off by its dirty brown- 
coloured flowers during the balmy evenings of summer 
is most delightful. Those who are in the habit of 
spending some portion of the summer evenings in 
their gardens should certainly grow a few plants of 
this stock. During mild winters I know this plant 
will stand out-of-doors all the winter without harm, 
but when it gets about two years old it should be 
replaced by a young plant, which can be raised by 
means of cuttings inserted in sandy soil; and placed 
in a cold pit or frame, where, if kept a little, they will 
soon root. We usually put in a 2i-'in. potful of 
cuttings every year, so as to have some plants always 
coming on. It is not necessary to stoop in order to 
inhale the odour of this plant, for it only requires to 
be 'within the bounds of a good-sized garden to be 
appreciated in any part of it.— C. Warden. 
Clematis tubulosa var Hookeri.— Under this 
name we find a Clematis figured in the January 
number of The Botanical Magazine. It belongs to the 
erect group, and is closely allied to the handsome C. 
Davidiana ; indeed Maximowicz considers them forms 
of one polymorphous plant. We, however, agree with 
Sir Joseph Hooker in considering Davidiana a distinct 
species, for not only is the habit distinct, but there are 
some other differences. The subject of our note 
flowered in the open-air, at the end of September, 
1882. 
->*<- 
Cyclamen europseum. — This beautiful little 
Swiss plant is just now one of the gems of the hardy 
rockwork. Its deep rose-coloured petals with purple 
base and prettily-marbled leaves are highly effective. 
It should be planted in a partially shaded airy situation, 
in a light soil, and, when established, it is one of the 
prettiest of early spring flowering plants. 
Asparagus medioloides.— This pretty climber 
is now flowering well in the Cactus-house at Kew. It 
is hardly like an Asparagus at all, at least not like the 
beautiful A. plumosus, nor yet like the better known 
esculent of our tables. The stem rambles for several 
feet and the leaves are ovate, more than 2 ins. long, 
and over 1 in. broad. The flowers are white, three- 
eighths of an inch long, and arranged in little 
panicles, with which the plant is crowded. The effect 
produced is quite elegant. 
Phillyrea Vilmoriniana.— The Phillyreas have 
been favourites in the gardens and shrubberies of 
England for nearly three hundred years. In the 
January number of The Botanical Magazine is a 
figure of this fine new species, said to be a far 
more beautiful shrub than any of the others. 
From the above source we learn that the numerous 
forms which have received names are considered by 
botanists to be forms of one variable species which 
inhabits the whole Mediterranean region. The present 
plant, however, is altogether distinct, and has large 
dark green leaves, which are compared by Boissier, 
who first described it, to those of a Portugal Laurel. 
The flowers are white, and are borne in axillary 
fascicles. The plant was discovered by Bourgeau, at 
Pontus, in Asia, in 1866; the precise locality in 
mountains in the Province of Lazistan, on the south¬ 
east shore of the Black Sea, at an elevation of 3,000 ft. 
The figure was prepared from a specimen which 
flowered in April, 1884, in the Knap Hill nursery of 
Mr. Anthony Waterer. It appears quite hardy, as a 
plant which has been four years in the open-air at 
Kew has been uninjured, though it has not yet 
flowered. 
Iris fimbriata. —This beautiful Iris, which requires 
the protection of a greenhouse, is just now very 
effective. The flower is of a bluish-lilac shade, the 
segments elegantly fringed, and the large outer 
segments with orange markings in the centre and 
some violet markings outside of this. It is a native 
of China. 
-- 
Coeeocypselum discolor. — As a basket-plant 
this elegant stove-trailer is just now very effective, by 
reason of the numerous clusters of metallic indigo- 
blue berries with which it is covered. The basket 
should be well mossed, and the inside filled with a 
lightish rich compost, in which the plant luxuriates. 
It should be well supplied with water during the 
growing season, and not allowed to get dry at any 
time. The berries last in perfection for a long time 
and a well furnished plant is very ornamental. 
Fruit Culture under Glass: Vines. — Eyes 
which were inserted in 3-inch pots and afterwards 
attended to as recommended at p. 347, will by this time 
have developed into little plants 2 ins. or 3 ins. high, 
and be pushing their fleshy roots towards the side of 
the pots as an indication of their requiring more scope. 
The plants, therefore, should be shifted into 6-in. 
pots, potting them in soil of about the same nature 
and temperature as that in which they are growing. 
Then put a little stick to each plant for support, 
water to settle the soil about the roots, and put them 
back in heat near the glass to insure a sturdy growth. 
After this potting the plants will not require any water 
at the roots until the latter have pushed well into the 
fresh soil, but they should be syringed gently over¬ 
head with tepid water morning and afternoon. 
That portion of the Vines which are intended for 
fruiting in pots next year, should not be allowed to 
become anything like pot-bound at the roots, until 
they are in their fruiting-pots. Neither should the 
roots of those which are intended for planting in new 
borders towards the middle or end of April next as 
permanent and temporary fruiters, be allowed to 
approach that state before being planted, when the 
roots should only be showing through the soil. If 
there should be any doubt as to the Vines in the 
early house not being thoroughly moist at the roots, 
give them a good soaking of tepid liquid manure. 
Maintain a night temperature of 60 degs. to 65 degs. 
and 70 degs. by day, running it up to 85 degs. or 90 
degs. with sun-heat and plenty of a'tmospheric 
moisture at closing-time. Keep the evaporating 
troughs of the hot-water pipes filled with strong 
liquid manure as much with a view to the ammonia 
arising therefrom preventing the spread, if not the 
attack, of red spider on the foliage of the Vines as 
of benefiting the latter. 
Successional Houses. —Attend to the disbudding, 
stopping, and tying down of the shoots to the trellis, 
and the removing therefrom of all the bunches but one 
to each shoot as soon as they appear; and, after those 
left have set their fruit, the number should be reduced 
to eight or nine bunches to each rod, leaving more or 
less according to the length and strength of the 
individual vines. The process of bringing the laterals 
into a horizontal position must be effected gradually 
and carefully until the shoots have become more firm 
and woody, when they will be less liable to snap. Stop 
the shoots at two joints beyond the bunches, and 
remove all sub-laterals at the first joint. Those which 
may afterwards be produced should be pinched close 
back.— H. H, Ward. 
The Kitchen Gardener’s Calendar. —Asparagus 
beds should have the couple of inches thick of §hort 
dung that was laid on them last October,- as a winter 
dressing, covered with the soil from the alleys which 
was drawn from the surface of the beds prior to the 
dung being laid on them. Young plants of Cauli¬ 
flower, Cabbage, Savoys, Brussels Sprouts, Snow’s 
Superb Winter White Broccoli, Leeks, and Lettuce, 
resulting from seeds sown on a warm border towards 
the end of January, should be pricked out a few 
inches apart in a like situation to that in which 
they are growing before they become crowded in 
the beds. Make a small sowing of Gilbert’s Chou 
de Burghley, Dwarf Curled, Scotch and Cottager’s 
Kale; also sow another pinch of Lettuces, Brussels 
Sprouts, and Eadishes. Make good plantings of 
autumn-sown Lettuces to supplement the supplies 
which earlier plantings will yield, and attend to the 
watering and hardening off of young plants of Cauli¬ 
flower, Cabbage, Lettuce, etc., which were raised in 
heat early in January, and subsequently pricked out 
in frames, &c., preparatory to finally transplanting 
them in the open as soon as they are large enough 
for that purpose. 
Forcing Department. —Plants of Tomatos which 
were raised from seeds or cuttings late in the autumn 
will now be showing flower, and in order to secure a 
good set of fruit these should have a camel’s hair 
brush passed over them every day when the pollen 
is dry until that object is attained. After this 
the plants should be shifted into their fruiting (12-in.) 
pots, using a compost consisting of three-parts loam 
and one of horse-droppings and lime-rubble. When 
the roots have pushed well into this give them liberal 
supplies of weak tepid liquid manure, with a view to 
securing the best possible results from the plants. 
When the latter are put into their fruiting pots 
before the fruit is set they do not show flower so 
freely nor set so well as when the roots are confined 
to smaller pots. Stop the shoots one joint beyond 
each cluster of fruit; also the leaves should be 
considerably reduced so as to expose the fruit to 
the full influence of light and sunshine, and in 
securing the fruit-bearing shoots to the stick sup¬ 
porting the individual plants in an upright position 
see that due allowance is made for them development. 
Damp the plants overhead morning and afternoon on 
bright days with tepid water, and aim at a night 
temperature of 60 degs., 65 degs. to 70 degs. by 
day, and fire, running it up 10 degs. or 15 degs. 
with sun-heat, and plenty of moisture at closing 
time. When the roots have pushed well into the 
soil in the fruiting give copious and frequent sup¬ 
plies of tepid liquid manure to the roots to enable 
the plants to swell a crop of large fine fruit.—H. W. 
Ward, Longford Castle. 
-- 
Pea-Walkers’ Perpetual Bearer. —I take this 
to be one of the most valuable tall Peas grown. It is 
a selection from Veitch’s Perfection Pea; it has a 
singularly robust, branching habit, and it is a 
continuous bearer, producing large quantities of 
fine green pods. Now, in sowing this Pea, the 
seeds should be placed 9 ins. or a foot apart. Because 
of its free-branching habit it requires ample space 
in which to grow. Another feature is that the 
branches remain green until the end, resisting the 
mildew with wonderful vigour. It will continue in 
bearing until the middle of October.— 11. D. 
Wright’s Grove Pink Celery.—I have seen 
several varieties of Celery mentioned at different 
times in the gardening journals, but I do not recollect 
to have seen Wright’s Grove Pink alluded to. This 
variety is the best I have hitherto tried both for 
hardiness, crispness, and size.— J. TV. L. 
■ -- 
Callipscyche aubantiaca. —We notice in the stove 
at Kew a remarkable Amaryllidaceous plant under this 
name. The scape is 1 ft. high and bears an umbel of 
pale yellow flowers about 2 ins. long. Each flower is 
curiously compressed on the side as if it had been 
pinched between the finger and thumb, and the pale 
green stamens are pushed out beyond the petals 
for nearly 3 ins., giving the flower a rather odd 
appearance. 
