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THE GARDENING WORLD. 
May 23rd, 1883. 
THE GREENHOUSE. 
To keep the Greenhouse gay up to this period, 
when there are so many spring-flowering plants 
available, is easy enough, but after these are over, 
the thing becomes somewhat difficult, unless a certain 
amount of foresight is exercised to provide some of 
the annuals that come in during the summer, among 
which may be named the Balsams, Celosias, Torenia 
Fournieri, Browallia elata, Salpiglossis, and Schi- 
zanthus, as well as getting up a stock of Fuchsias, 
Zonal Pelargoniums, Tuberous Begonias, Single and 
Double Petunias, and plants of that class. Any or 
all of these will now do well in frames, the Balsams, 
Celosias, and Torenias being the only ones among 
them requiring artificial heat, which may be afforded 
them by fermenting material, and in this they should 
be plunged thinly, with their heads well up to the 
glass, to keep them dwarf and sturdy, a condition 
they will remain in if they have full light upon 
them. 
Azaleas that have gone out of bloom ought to have 
the seed-pods picked off at once, and the plants 
placed where they can be kept close and syringed 
one 3 or twice' a day to assist them in their growth 
and keep them free from thrip, an insect that is sure 
to assail them if the air of the house or pit they are 
in remains dry. Any that are pot-bound will need a 
shift into pots two sizes larger, and these must be 
well drained by having about 1| in. of small crocks, 
besides the large one put over the hole. For 
potting them in, there is nothing like tough, fibry 
peat, which should be used rather rough, and rammed 
very firm, as the balls of these plants cannot be made 
too compact. 
Chrysanthemums will also require repotting, the 
soil best adapted for these being good loam mixed 
with a little rotten manure, and as soon as the plants 
are potted they should be plunged in some sheltered 
sunny spot, to prevent a too rapid drying at the roots, 
which is sure to take place if the pots stand exposed. 
For plunging them in, half-rotten or short straw is as 
good as anything, as it is non-conducting, and keeps 
the soil cool. 
Zonal Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, and Petunias, also 
do well out-of-doors plunged in the same way, and any 
so treated generally flower much better than those 
kept under glass. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Spring Bedding-plants. —The time has now arrived 
when beds must be cleared of spring-flowering 
plants, that they may be prepared for their summer 
occupants ; but in doing this, it is necessary to bear 
in mind that next season has to be provided for, and, 
therefore, every care should be taken of the plants 
removed by replanting them in some spare piece of 
ground, where they can complete their growth, and 
form and set blooms for a future display. The way 
to treat Pansies and Daisies is to divide them, which 
may be done by pulling them apart, when they 
should be put in in rows, the most suitable place for 
them being a shady situation, where they can be 
supplied during summer with plenty of water, and 
have a soaking or two with liquid manure, when they 
will make fine plants by the autumn. 
Violets require treating in a similar way, as they 
cannot be got to flower freely after they have been 
standing some time in one place; but by dividing 
them, and replanting the finest runners or crowns in 
fresh ground, they grow strong and bloom profusely 
after, if their leaves are kept free from red-spider 
during the summer ; this may be done by frequently 
sprinkling the plants overhead, as red-spider does not 
like wet, and only flourishes when the air is dry, or 
the Violets are in that state at the roots. 
Bedding-out. —Although the month is far advanced, 
frosts and cold winds have continued, and it is only 
safe to bed out the more hardy of the plants, beginning 
first with the Calceolarias and others that have been 
exposed to fit them for the change, as though they 
may escape actual frost, sun and wind will brown or 
discolour the leaves, and this gives a check from whioh 
the plants are slow in recovering. The first week in 
June will be quite time enough for Asters and Zinnias, 
and to grow these well, the beds should be manured 
and deeply dug, and the same for Stocks, as all these 
annuals like rich soil, and only send up fine flowers 
when they can get their roots down and find the rich 
food they require. For Pelargoniums, the soil cannot 
be too poor, and it is a good plan in the management 
of these to drop them in the beds just as they are, in 
their pots, as then, instead of going to leaf, they make 
short-jointed growth, and bloom with the greatest of 
freedom. 
Roses. —The season seems to be favouring these, as 
they are looking well, but they need close watching, 
as this is just the time the maggot gets to work and does 
the most mischief by eating out the buds, and thus 
destroying the flower. To prevent this, the plants 
should be gone over two or three times a week, and 
have any curled leaves slightly squeezed, as it is in 
them the maggot lurks, and pressure between the 
thumb and finger will smash them up without 
hurting the foliage. If green-fly is showing itself, 
that must be dealt with in a different way, the 
quickest and most effectual being to dip the points 
of the shoots in tobacco-water, which, as they are 
long now, may easily be done by having the liquid in 
a bowl, or other vessel, and with the right hand bring¬ 
ing the shoots down into it till the whole have been 
immersed, after which they should be syringed to 
wash the dead insects off and make the plants clean. 
To have them vigorous and healthy, mulching is of 
the first importance towards securing that end, and 
when the weather is dry, sewage or liquid manure 
is the thing, as fine Roses cannot be had without 
liberal feeding, and on gravelly or well-drained land 
it is almost impossible to keep the plants too wet at 
the roots. 
The Lawn. —Without this receives unremitting 
attention it soon gets out of order, as the grass not 
only becomes long, but when it is cut the surface 
presents a shabby appearance, instead of which if 
the mowing machine were run over it at least once 
a week it will assume a velvet-like look, and set off 
the beds and borders to the greatest advantage. 
Box Edgings.— If not already done, the clipping 
of these should be no longer deferred, or they will 
not have time to break again before hot weather 
sets in, and it becomes too late for them to make any 
growth. 
Walks. —Grass and other weeds are now growing 
apace in these, and must either be pulled out and the 
gravel rolled down, or watered with hot salt water, 
but if this is used care must be taken to keep it from 
the sides, where it would damage the edging. 
THE FRUIT GARDEN. 
The Vinery. —The temperature of the vinery 
should now be kept regularly at 60 degs. by night, 
and 70 degs. to 75 degs. by day, allowing an increase 
of 10 degs. or so by sun heat when the house is closed 
in the afternoon, which it may be by three or four 
o’clock, according to the aspect it stands in, as after 
that time there is no fear of the foliage being scorched, 
if the floors and other surfaces are well damped down, 
so as to throw out plenty of moisture. It is the 
practice with some to syringe the Vines, but though 
this answers very well up to a certain period, it should 
never be done after the berries are set, for however 
clear the water may appear, it is almost sure to leave 
a deposit, which quite spoils the bloom. Of humidity 
in the atmosphere it is almost impossible to have too 
much, especially during hot days when the ventilators 
are wide open, and to counteract the aridity of the air 
then the pathways should be frequently sprinkled by 
using a fine-rosed pot. 
If the border is inside the house it will be necessary 
to give a good soaking, which will be sufficient till the 
Grapes are stoned, when another heavy watering will 
be required to carry them through to the finish. 
With regard to the treatment of the Vines, the thing 
is to keep all laterals or shoots that show below the 
bunches rubbed out, and others above stopped to one 
leaf, as it is useless having more foliage than can be 
fully exposed to the light and sun without the leaves 
over-lapping each other, although every part of the 
roof should be covered. 
The way to manage young Vines that have been 
recently planted, as regards air, heat, and atmospheric 
moisture, is just the same as that touched on above 
for those established, but after pinching back all 
laterals to one leaf for about three parts of the 
distance up the rafter, those that form above should 
be allowed to run, as the more liberty they have at 
top the more root will they make, which will cause 
the rods to swell to a large size and give them strength 
to come quickly into bearing. 
Raspberries, Gooseberries, and Currants. — 
Raspberries will now be in active growth and sending 
up quantities of suckers, all of which should be pulled 
up or cut off, except four or five of the strongest 
and best situated round each of the stools, which 
it is necessary to leave for bearing next year. In 
some gardens the Gooseberry caterpillar gives much 
trouble, and as this insect makes its appearance about 
this time, the bushes will need watching, that the 
caterpillars may be picked off before they devour the 
foliage and thus spoil the fruit. Currants are only 
subject to green-fly, which get on the tips of the 
young tender shoots, but by nipping the points of 
these off and carrying them away, all further mischief 
is stopped. 
THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. 
Tomatos have become such a favourite esculent of 
late years that almost everyone uses them now, and 
many essay to grow them, but fail through not getting 
their plants strong and forward before putting them 
out, which is the great secret towards success in 
obtaining a crop of ripe fruit. For planting Tomatos 
there is no place equal to a south wall or fence having 
the same aspect, as they like great heat and all the 
sun they can get, but those who have not the conve¬ 
nience of such a situation may do very well with them 
on any warm border or other sheltered, sunny part of 
the garden where the plants can be trained and tied 
up to stakes. When first put out, whether on walls, 
fences, or in the open, it is a good plan to shelter 
them by sticking in a branch of evergreen at their 
sides or behind them to break the wind and prevent 
any check till they get a fair start. 
Spinach.— As this is a vegetable that runs to seed 
quickly, small sowings should be made frequently, the 
best situation for it after this season being a north 
border, where it will get a little shade and be in a 
cooler position than if growing in a bed in the open, 
and the same with Turnips and Radishes, which, if 
subjected to much sun, taste strong and become hard 
and stringy in the flesh before they reach a size fit 
to use. 
Lettuces should now be sown where they are to 
stand, as in hot, dry weather it is impossible to trans¬ 
plant them without entailing such a check as to 
prevent them attaining much size or causing them to 
run up to seed. To have the Lettuce with fine large 
hearts, and crisp and good, the land for them must 
be rich and firm, and it will be a great help to the 
plants if they now and then get a soaking of liquid 
manure. 
^=9 - 
A NEW FLOWER BASKET. 
Among a host of pretty things in the florist’s way 
to be seen at Mr. William Gordon’s, 40, Duke Street, 
St. James’s, are some new baskets for plants and cut- 
flowers combined, which should take the fancy of all 
who wish to combine elegance and usefulness with 
economy. As will be seen by the accompanying 
illustration, the baskets are made of teak, like those 
for Orchids, but taller (12 ins. high), and smaller in 
the middle. When being planted, from four to six 
earthenware tubes, 3J ins. long, for holding cut- 
flowers, are inserted at intervals. The Palms, Ferns, 
and Selaginellas with which the baskets are planted 
form beautiful permanent objects, the appearance of 
which can be varied at pleasure by the addition of 
fresh cut-flowers. The basket illustrated contained a 
nice young Palm, about 20 ins. high in the centre, 
with such Ferns as the Maiden-hair and Pteris cretica, 
mixed with Selaginella Kraussiana at the base. In 
the tubes were cut blooms of the Pheasant’s-eye 
Narciss, and of a ruby-red-coloured Ixia. Other 
examples we noticed for their exceedingly chaste 
character contained Daffodils of various sorts, and 
lovely spikes of Odontoglossums. Such baskets as 
these can readily be made up by anyone possessed of 
taste, and even when not in full plumage they are 
objects to admire. 
