618 
THE GARDENING- WORLD. 
May 30th, 1885. 
filled the pots with roots (except it be late in autumn), 
they should be shifted into larger ones, taking care 
not to overdo them, as one advantage of most deco¬ 
rative plants is their being in comparatively small 
pots, and these subjects will bear being pot-bound, if 
stimulated occasionally with a little liquid manure. 
The plants with us do not make a very rapid 
growth in their young stages ; our best plants in use 
now are about three years old. They are found most 
useful during their first year of bearing berries, as 
when they lose their lower branches and get tall, they 
are of less use for the purpose named, though they 
will come in for many purposes the second year. In 
order to always have some useful plants in the best 
possible condition, the best plan is to sow fresh seeds 
every year, and always have half-a-dozen or more, 
according to requirements, coming along. When 
damped over with a syringe or rose watering-can, 
well-berried plants present a singularly bright and 
pleasing appearance.— -C. Warden. 
- A — • '• 
f> 
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Fruit Culture under Glass.— Melons: In estab¬ 
lishments where the supply from other sources is not 
equal to the demand for these, in some places, much 
sought after cooling summer fruits, the supply may be 
considerably augmented by planting Melons in frames 
just vacated by bedding and other plants. Presuming, 
therefore, that the seed has been sown as advised in a 
former number, the plants will now be ready for 
planting; but those not in possession of plants may 
easily raise them by sowing seeds at once singly in 
3-in. pots three parts filled with light mould, covering 
them with a little of the same compost, and after the 
pots have been placed in heat they should be covered 
with a square of glass to hasten the process of 
germination. As soon as the seedling plants appear, 
they should be stood on a shelf near the glass to 
prevent them from making a weakly growth, and be 
top-dressed; thus treated the plants will be ready for 
planting within ten days or a fortnight from the time 
of sowing the seed. 
The Frames can be placed on a south, west, or even 
an east border, with a barrow-load of soil, consisting 
of three parts of loam and one of road scrapings, 
and, should the loam be of a stiff or adhesive nature, a 
little lime-rubble or charcoal may be added, and, as 
already stated, a barrow-load put in the centre of each 
light. In planting, the soil, being moderately dry and 
warm by reason of its having been placed in the frame 
a couple of days prior to planting, should be pressed 
firmly around each plant, taking care, however, not to 
press the stems in doing so, which would be likely to 
injure them, and be careful in planting not to bury 
the stems any deeper in the soil than they had been 
in the pots, and see that the summit of the hillocks, 
which should be about 6 ins. in diameter at their 
bases, and half that distance at the top, is 
3 ins. higher than the surrounding soil after the 
intervening space up to the level indicated has been 
filled by frequent additions of soil being made to cover 
the roots as they push through the sides of the 
mounds. At the final earthing-up of the mounds, the 
soil should be well trodden all over the bed, especially 
along the sides and ends of the frame, to prevent its 
coming away from the woodwork. The Melon delights 
in a firm but not too adhesive soil. Should the 
weather be bright and sunny at the time of planting, 
shade the plants for a few hours during the heat of 
the day for a few days until the roots have pushed 
into the soil, after which they should be exposed to 
the full rays of the sun 
Plants growing in these frames will require little if 
any water at the roots other than what they receive at 
the time of planting to settle the soil round them, 
inasmuch as there is no bottom-heat in these frames 
other than that imparted to the border by the sun. 
However, the plants will require' to be syringed over¬ 
head (when not in flower, or the fruit approaching 
maturity) every afternoon during bright and warm 
weather at closing time, from half-past three to four 
o’clock. The time for putting on and taking off air 
must, of course, be regulated according to the aspect 
in which the houses, pits, or frames are situated. How¬ 
ever, air should be put on at from half-past seven to 
eight o’clock in the morning, to prevent the foliage 
from being scorched by the sun shining on them, 
whilst their leaves are covered by and full of moisture 
without an opening through which to breathe. The 
plants, I would remark, should, if not done so prior 
to planting, be stopped after the roots have taken to 
the soil, when they have made two or three rough 
leaves, and three or four of the strongest side-shoots 
resulting from this treatment should be trained regu¬ 
larly over the surface of the bed, stopping these when 
they have attained to a length of 15 ins. to 18 ins., 
which will result in the production of fruit-bearing 
shoots, which in their turn should be pinched at one 
joint beyond the fruit, and the latter, when in flower, 
should be impregnated with the small (male) flower 
when the pollen is dry. 
Plants should now, as at all times, be specially 
treated consistently with the various changes of 
growth at which they have arrived, i.e., those in 
flower will require a somewhat dry and airy atmo¬ 
sphere — the blossoms being, as already hinted, 
fertilized at mid-day—until they have set their fruit, 
after which they should be subjected to a moist and 
growing atmosphere, with a minimum temperature (in 
houses and pits heated by hot-water pipes) of 70 degs., 
and a maximum of 90 degs. to 95 degs. whh sun-heat. 
Three or four fruits—according to the size and strength 
of the individual plants—will be sufficient on each 
plant, all others, like the superfluous shoots, being 
removed forthwith as soon as they appear. The same 
atmosphere as recommended for plants in flower will 
suit those maturing their fruit. Plants swelling their 
fruits should be assisted by liberal supplies of tepid 
liquid manure being given to the roots when necessary. 
— H. IF. Ward, Longford Castle. 
Strawberry Packing Competition.—With the 
laudable object in view of spreading a knowledge 
among gardeners of the best methods of packing 
Strawberries for transit by rail, Messrs. Webber & 
Co., Central Avenue, Covent Garden, offered three 
prizes for competition at South Kensington on 
Tuesday for a box of Strawberries, not less than 2 lbs., 
packed for market so as to realize the highest price. 
Strange to say only three boxes were forthcoming, 
and in neither instance could the market-men present 
say that the packing was first class, the fruits being 
laid in simply between Strawberry leaves and in one 
layer. From an educational point of view it was a 
pity that some of the older growers, who have been 
sending to market for years, did not enter the lists, 
and so exhibit for the benefit of all the systems which 
they have found to answer best. In the first prize 
box, sent by Mr. J. Vert, gardener at Audley End, 
Saffron Walden, the fruits (of excellent quality) were 
laid in with the stalks uppermost, but in the other 
boxes, contributed by Mr. S. Haines and Mr. C. J. 
Waite, the reverse plan was adopted, and we are 
inclined to think that this is the best, the point of 
the fruit being the best part, and consequently the 
portion most desirable to retain in a perfect condition. 
If the shallow boxes were made so that the bottom 
could be as easily removed as the top, and the fruits 
were placed in the box with the stalk downwards, and 
the points at the top under the lid marked “ this side 
up,” they could readily be taken out by the stalks 
after removing the bottom of the box, and should in 
this way be subjected to the least amount of damage 
from friction. If any of our readers have tried this 
plan we should be glad to know the results of their 
experience. 
-■>-!-:- 
Melons.—-At South Kensington on Tuesday, Messrs. 
Sutton & Sons, Heading, offered prizes for the best 
brace of Melons, to include their Scarlet Invincible, 
Masterpiece or Hero of Lockinge, for which there 
were several competitors. The first prize was won by 
Mr. C. Herrin, gardener to J. N. Hibbert, Esq., Chal- 
font Park, Slough, with beautifully netted, well- 
ripened, and well-flavoured fruits of the white-fleshed 
Hero of Lockinge. The second prize went to Mr. C. 
Howe, gardener to Sir E. Sutton, Bart., Benham 
Park, Newbury, with good examples of Masterpiece 
and Invincible ; and Mr. S. Haines, gardener to Lord 
Kadnor, Coleshill House, Highworth, was third with 
Best of All and Hero of Lockinge. 
Grapes.—Mr. James Hudson, gardener to H. J, 
Atkinson, Esq., Gunnersbury House, Acton, exhibited 
proof of his proficiency as a Grape-grower at South 
Kensington on Tuesday, in the form of remarkably 
well preserved bunches of Lady Downes, which were 
ripe in October last, and a bunch of thoroughly well 
finished Black Hamburghs of the current season's crop. 
Mr. Fyffe, gardener to TV. W. F. Dick, Esq., Thames 
Ditton House, also showed some good examples of 
Black Hamburgh and Foster’s Seedling. 
Work in the Plant-houses.— Eichardia .ethio- 
pica (Calla) : This useful plant should now be either 
re-potted or planted out in the open ground. The latter 
plan, perhaps, gives the least trouble, and if the 
ground is good they will make stronger plants than 
those grown in pots. In either case all the old soil 
should be shaken out from the roots, and the offsets 
be taken off. Where it is desirable to save all the 
offsets, the small ones should be put in pans or boxes, 
and if taken care of will make nice plants for growing 
on the following year. If the plants are to be grown 
in pots, good rich loam should be used, and the 
pots be plunged in a bed of cinder ashes. 
Cvtisus (Genistas). —All old plants should be cut 
back, and after they begin to start, into fresh growth 
they will require re-potting. After re-potting the 
plants it will be better to have them in pits or frames 
until they have made a fresh start, when they may be 
stood out in the open, or plunged in cinder ashes; 
the latter is a good plan to adopt for all plants 
that are to be grown on out in the open during the 
summer, as it will save much labour in watering. 
Deutzlas and all other deciduous flowering shrubs 
that have been used for forcing may be put into the 
ground in their pots ; if done in this way the pots will 
help to confine the roots and keep them within bounds, 
so that they can be taken up for forcing again next 
winter. The pots should be sunk, say about 1 in. 
below the surface of the soil, and unless we get very 
dry weather they will not require watering. 
A Few Good Hardy Plants.—It is doubtful if 
the Double Wallflower is generally so much prized as 
it ought to be, for although it is an old occupant of 
the garden, one seldom meets with it in private 
places. Granted that they are not thoroughly hardy 
in the true sense of the word, they are nevertheless 
quite as hardy as a host of new things sent out as 
such. Plant them in a sheltered spot on a dry, warm 
bank, and they seldom suffer from frost, and at the 
foot of a wall they are quite _ at home. Some plants 
here standing in the open border have been grand, and 
proved of great value for cutting from. All the sorts 
are worth growing, but our favourites are the yellow 
and dark kinds. We have a smaller flowered variety 
sent here as a dwarf one, which it is not, but it is 
smaller and paler in colour, and the scent is decidedly 
stronger. 
Arnebia echioides deserves a passing note, as it 
has stood out here through the winter in an open, 
exposed border, and has flowered splendidly. A strong 
clump of its yellow and black spotted blossoms has a 
decidedly attractive appearance. It has gained much 
favour here this season. 
Daphne cneorum is a beautiful plant in every situa¬ 
tion in which it will grow. I know of no dwarf shrub 
which is more glorious to behold than a patch of this 
2 ft. or more across covered with its bright heads of 
bloom. Its scent is delicious, and the plant is 
altogether a most valuable one for filling the flower 
basket. I have never observed that it was injured 
by being cut from, and cutting the long straggling 
shoots keeps the bushes compact. 
Narcissus Bulbocodiuji, as a border-plant, is a very 
attractive object; good patches with from fifty to sixty 
blooms open at one time, are most showy. It does 
well here in our light sandy soil, and nothing is more 
elegant than a combination of these and a few other 
hardy plants of well-chosen colours. 
The Poet’s N.arcissus is full of bloom, and grand 
for large mixed borders, as also is the large Double 
White Narcissus. 
