PERENNIAL FLOWER SEEDS 
PERENNIALS will bloom the second year from seed and are permanent there¬ 
after. They grow larger and stronger, produce more flowers each year, are unexcelled 
for their usefulness in color schemes and as cutting flowers; they give that charming, 
well established and natural appearance to any garden. Most of these plants run high 
in price—an attractive perennial border may require several hundred dollars worth of 
plants. You can secure the same results with a few dollars worth of seed and have the 
fascination of seeing your plants grow up under your own care. 
HOW TO GROW THEM. Some of these hardy flowers will bloom the first year 
from seed, if sown in the hotbed in February or March. Outdoors they should be 
sown any time from the end of July until September. It is best to start them early so 
that the plants will be well established and able to stand the cold weather. The best 
place to sow the seed is in a coldframe, but if you have none, make a seedbed in finely 
sifted soil enriched with well rotted manure or sheep manure. Over the top of this 
spread a layer about 2 inches thick of soil thoroughly mixed with peat and sand. Sow 
the seed in drills and cover with not more than X A inch; the very small seeds should 
only be pressed into the soil. Press down with a flat board and water gently through 
a fine hose. Never allow the soil to dry while the seeds are germinating, for as soon 
as they sprout and until they istart to root, the life of the plants depends entirely on 
soil moisture. It is fatal to allow the soil to become dry even for a few minutes at 
this time. This is the most common cause of failure, and to prevent drying out, the 
seedbed should be shaded from the hot summer sun and carefully watched and watered 
until the plants have grown from 4 to 5 leaves. Peat moss retains its moisture for’ a 
much longer period than soil and that is why we advocate its use in seedbeds. 
Most seeds germinate in from 8 to 14 days, but there are some that take a month 
to come up, so do not become impatient. If the seedlings come up too thick, thin them 
out, transplanting the extra plants to pots or boxes. The plants should be set out in 
their permanent places in the garden early in October so that they have time to 
establish themselves before the frost sets in. About the middle of December—after 
the ground is well frozen, cover the plants with a layer of leaves, straw, peat moss, or 
well-rotted manure which should be raked off again a little at a time starting in March. 
Delphiniums, foxgloves, poppies, and campanulas need a little different treatment to 
the other perennials in wintering over, for they are very apt to rot. Cover them with 
brushwood before adding the leaves or manure. This will prevent packing down on 
the plants, which generally starts the rot. Explicit culture directions will be found 
on each packet of Palmer’s Perennial Seeds. 
SHASTA DAISY NEW GIANT DOUBLE WHITE 
— 45 — 
