SATISFIED CUSTOMERS ARE OUR BEST ADVERTISERS 
pollen from stamen of one large variety, to the pistil of another large flowering 
variety, with no alternative, as a result of which the seed, must hear large flower¬ 
ing varieties, our seed is all hand picked and selected from over 500 varieties in¬ 
cluding many European varieties that are not on the market as yet, and we feel 
sure that many new and sensational varieties will make their way into the dahlia 
world from these shortly, of this we are sure from some of the results we got 
from our seed in the past two years, and can be attested by some of the visitors 
to our gardens the past season. 
For those that do not know, and have never grown dahlias from seed, we 
wish to inform them, that you will get large blooms or blooms fully as large as 
the ones grown from roots, can be cut from a bush of a plant grown from seed 
that very same season, and that the clump of roots will in every way be as large 
as though the plant had been originally grown from a root. 
For one with a small capital, and a limited space of ground, I know of no 
value that will give as many flowers, and continuation of flowers for the same 
amount of money, as can ge gotten from a single packet of seed. Try a pack¬ 
age you have nothing to lose, as we guarantee it on a money back basis to be 
everything we say it is, and the fun and thrill you will get from a single package. 
Price: 50 seed $3.00 100 seed $5.00 
HOW TO GROW DAHLIA FROM SEED 
There are many ways that dahlia seeds are started, and grown, on account 
of the different climatic conditions, and the length of the growing season, here 
in New York City, I have been getting wonderful results as follows: About 
April 1st, I select an open sunny location in my garden and spade this to a depth 
of about 8 inches and rake the soil until it is finely broken, and not lumpy, then 
with a hoe make trenches about 4 inches in depth and about 12 inches apart. 
Then place a seed about every 2 inches apart in these trenches and cover 
with about one half inch of soil, water lightly and cover with about 2 or 3 inches 
of peat moss, as a protection against a slight frost or cold. About May 1st, care¬ 
fully remove the peat moss and in another week or two you will see the young 
dahlia plants breaking through the ground, add a little more soil to the trench 
and around the plants that are showing above ground, so that they will get better 
and stronger root formation. About June 1st many of these plants will be about 
4 or 5 inches above the ground, showing two to three sets of leaves and the stems 
will be about the thickness of an ordinary match. They are then about the rignt 
size for transplanting. 
At this time you should have the location of where you intend growing 
these seedling plants, should be dug up and well spaded with holes about 10 
inches in diameter and 6 inches deep. In each of these holes place a good hand- 
full of bonemeal or other good fertilizer and mix this in the soil well. When 
this is done, place a good strong stake in the hole, near the edge of same, then 
with a small trowel remove the plant from the seedling bed, with as much soil 
as possible on the roots, and without disturbing the roots, place this plant 
so that the stem will be about 2 inches away from the stake and add enough 
soil in the hole to within 4 inches of the top and to hold the plant secure. 
Then water same liberally, about a quart to two quarts of water according to the 
condition and dryness of the soil. 
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