READ THE FLOWER GROWER AND LEARN MORE ABOUT DAHLIAS 
SIZE OF HOLE FOR ROOT 
We believe that better results will be attained by making a large hole. One 
that will give the rootlets plenty of room in which to spread out, and feed. In 
other words, it is better to make a $5.00 hole for a 25c root than a 25c hole for 
a $5.00 root. When this is done, take out enough soil to leave a hole six to 
seven inches deep. Into this place a liberal handful of bone-meal and mix 
thoroughly with the soil. We find this to be about as good a fertilizer as one 
would want. It works slowly but surely, and gives about the best results. 
BLIND ROOTS OR TUBERS 
Where roots or tubers have no visible eyes or sprouts showing, we advise 
placing them in a box or in some location in the ground, and covering them with 
an inch or two of well pulverized soil, and leave them there until they show 
an eye or sprout before planting. 
CULTIVATION 
As soon as the sprouts have grown three to four inches above the ground, 
it is time to cultivate. Hoe the surface of the ground and keep it free from 
weeds. This should be done regularly and often, as the surface should never 
be allowed to form a crust. Never cultivate when the ground is wet. The day 
following a rain is usually the best time, and especially during a drought, as this 
preserves the moisture in the ground. We know of no plant that will respond 
to cultivation as quickly as a dahlia will. 
PINCHING BACK, OR TOPPING OFF PLANT 
When the plant shows three or four sets of leaves, we advise pinching the 
top off, just above the top pair of leaves; this will hold the plant back a week 
or two, but it will make the plant grow more robust and vigorous, and give 
many more heavier and better branches than would of been had, had the plant 
been allowed to grow natural. While this is not necessary on low growing plants, 
we urgently advise it on all tall growing plants. 
DISBUDDING FOR LARGE OR EXHIBITION FLOWERS 
There is no trick or secret in disbudding to get the large blooms one sees at 
the shows, or in the gardens of the Professional grower, it is all so very simple, 
if directions will be followed. When the buds begin to appear at the tip of the 
branch, they usually appear in clusters of three, when these are about the 
size of a pea, we take out the two side ones, and leave the center bud to grow 
alone, if by chance one of the side buds is larger, or looks healthier than the 
center one, then we take out the center bud, and the weakest or smaller of the 
side buds. With this done we then stay on this branch and go down to the last 
set of leaves on this same branch, and take out the two small branches, or laterals 
as they are called. These, as a rule, are small, as they are just beginning to sprout 
out from the node, or joint where the leaf is growing from. We do this right 
down on all of the leaves on this one branch until we get down to the 
last set of leaves; these we allow to grow. This not only gives a large flower, 
but also a longer and stronger stem. Continue this application on all the side 
stems on the plant. 
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