FIFTIETH BIRTHDAY 
CHAS. C. NAVLET CO. 
FUNDAMENTALS OF ROSE CULTURE 
The planting season for Roses follows the dropping of leaves after the first heavy frost—the time when field 
grown rose bushes are dug. Obviously the sooner planted, the less care required. 
Give the Roses the best location possible. They want: well-drained soil; at least a half-day’s full sunlight 
(morning sunlight is not especially desirable) ; shelter and protection from prevailing winds. (They should not 
be too close to large trees.) 
Prepare the Rose Beds in advance if possible. Where the soil is good garden loam, which has been under 
cultivation for some time, and is well drained so there is no standing moisture, the preparation is easy. Dig to 
twice the depth of a spade—about 18 ins. deep. Mix a generous quantity of Groz-it and Bonemeal in the 
bottom half of the bed. Let it stand and settle. 
When the roses arrive, try to plant them at once. If weather is bad, or ground soggy, they had better be 
partially buried in a shady, moist place in the garden. If the tops are shriveled, bury the plants completely in 
moist soil for several days until the wood becomes plump again. 
When ready to plant, special care should be taken to handle the roses with least possible exposure of the roots, 
selecting a cloudy, cool day when there is no wind, and keeping the roots covered at all times. Better carry the 
roses to the garden in a bucket of water, and frequently “puddle” the roots in thin mud before planting. 
Examine each plant carefully, and cut away smoothly, all broken or bruised roots. If canes are very long, 
shorten to about 12 inches, leaving no more than 3 canes pointing outward, with open center. 
Make a hole, in the prepared ground, large enough to accomodate the roots without twisting, coiling, or 
bunching them. Try to put the roots into the ground in the same position they were before the plant was dug. 
That is, spread them out so that there are layers of soil between the various strands. Work the soil among the 
roots with the fingers, jiggling the plant up and down to settle it among them. The whole plant should be set 
deep enough that the “bud” or “knuckle” is just beneath the surface. 
As the earth is filled into the hole, make it very firm by pressing it down with the fingers and fist. When the 
top roots are covered, it is advisable to step into the hole, and rock gently backward and forward, in order to 
make sure that every air-space is closed with soil. If the soil is dry, the hole should then be filled with water, 
which must be allowed to drain completely before putting in more soil. 
Mound the soil up high about the lower branches to protect the canes from drying out. The mound should be 
leveled when the roses begin to make normal growth. 
The hoe and hand cultivator are the best tools for the rose-garden. If the ground is kept thoroughly cultivated 
at least once a week, most rose troubles will be prevented or overcome. Thoroughly soak soil weekly and always 
remove spent blooms. 
The beginner must make up his mind from the start to face Rose enemies boldly, and the sooner he learns that 
his garden is not immune to them, the better it will be for his roses. But he needn’t become excited about it, for 
he can control diseases and insects with little difficulty if he starts in time and uses approved control methods. 
HOW TO GROW LONG-STEMMED SWEET PEAS 
Sweet Peas are always more satisfactory where they will get morning and forenoon sun only. 
Experts are agreed that thorough preparation of the soil must have primary consideration. The trench must 
be dug at least 2% ft. wide and 2 ft. deep. It must be enriched and conditioned with a liberal dressing of manure 
(we recommend Groz-it because it is free of insect eggs and weed seeds). Calcium Sulphate (because it contains 
both lime and sulphur) and Bonemeal (because it is lasting in its action and alkaline in soil reaction). These 
should be thoroughly mixed with the soil and left to stand. Some Sweet Pea Experts spread a 4-inch potful of 
Sulphate of Potash on every 4 lineal yards of trench. 
Uneven germination is due to varying degrees of hardness of seed coat. Cream, lavender and orange shades 
are likely to have hard coats, recognized by their bullet-like appearance. 
Inoculate the seed immediately before sowing, with Nitro-bac, or Nitragen. Inoculation is not a substitute for 
fertilizer. It is of additional benefit. 
The trench should be worked and turned over a last time, firmed by treading (see that it is not too moist 
when this is done) and the inoculated seed sown thinly on the surface. Cover seed with about one inch of soil, 
tread again, as Sweet Peas like a firm soil. 
Excess moisture is responsible for 90% of Sweet Pea failures. Seed sown in wet soil will rot. Either heavy 
drenching rains or soaking with the hose after planting and before the seed has sprouted, is likewise fatal. Don’t 
water the newly planted sweet peas until they sprout. 
Thin the Plants from 6 to 12 inches apart, the farther the better, when they reach about 3 inches in height. 
Pinch out the centers of remaining plants to encourage strong growth. (“Lates” only). Fill trench as they grow. 
Provide temporary support for vines. 
Provide a permanent support to which the tendrils may cling when the plants are 6 inches high, placed to the 
lee of the plants so they will blow against it instead of away. 
Protect the growing plants by dusting with Nicotine Dust when Green Plant Lice (Aphis) make an appear¬ 
ance. Guard against infestations of Slugs, Snails and Sow Bugs by scattering Navco Slug & Snail Destroyer. 
Watch the birds. 
Keep surface from crusting by cultivation after rains or watering. Cracks allow moisture to escape. 
Watering should be done thoroughly about once a week, after the Peas are up and well under way. When 
blooming time arrives and there is a great deal of vine, water at least twice a week. Do not sprinkle lightly each 
day. Sweet Peas like a moist atmosphere which may be created by soaking the soil around them, and drenching 
the vines. 
Feed the plants regularly during the blooming season with liquid manure after each weekly or semi-weekly 
watering. This will strengthen them. 
Pick flowers daily and don’t allow any withered blooms to remain on the vines. Picking prolongs bloom. 
Bud Dropping is caused sometimes by too much water, other times by overfeeding and frequently by cold 
nights following warm days. It frequently corrects itself, and is no cause for alarm. 
PLANT FOODS EXPLAINED 
H umus is organic matter, either animal or vegetable or 
both. Organic fertilizers consist of Bonemeal, Tank¬ 
age, Fish Meal, Guano, Manure, Cottonseed Meal, 
Castor Bean Meal, Cyanamide, Bloodmeal, etc. Humus 
is generally taken to mean decayed vegetable matter, 
such as Leaf Mold, Imported Peat Moss, Domestic 
Peat, etc. 
Nitrogen (Nit.) stimulates stem and foliage growth, in¬ 
tensifies color of fruit and flower. Overdoses cause 
soft, watery top and bulb development, and increases 
susceptibility to injury from insects and disease. There¬ 
fore do not apply Nitrogen Simples excepting that 
immediate stimulation or top growth is desired. 
Phosphoric acid (PhosA) hastens maturity, increases root 
development, aids in assimilation of other plant foods. 
Makes plants more resistant to disease. Excessive 
quantities, usually leave no bad effects. 
Potash forms starch in plants, and is a necessary compo¬ 
nent of chlorophyl, on which the life of plants largely 
depends. Potash imparts vigor to plants and helps 
overcome ill effects of overdose of Nitrogen. Required 
for development of leaves and woody parts of stems. 
When deficient, stems are weak and brittle. 
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