CHAS. C. NAVLET CO. 
1885-1935 
HOW TO MAKE A LAWN 
Decide on the Season for Seeding—Take your choice of the period from September to early November, or 
from February to May. Cooler Coastal districts may plant in Summer as well, if one does not mind the extra 
care required. 
Grade and Provide Drainage—Good drainage is very important. A gentle slope away from the house is ideal. 
Establish a rough grade and contour. Remove all surface rubbish stones, etc., especially lime rubble inasmuch 
as Dandelion, Clovers and many weeds, thrive in alkaline soils. Remove the surface soil. 
Spade deeply—Turn the sub-soil over, as deeply as possible, but not less than 6 inches. Level off. Then 
return the surface soil and spread it evenly. 
Encourage the Weed Seeds to Germinate—As all soils contain seed of weeds, water frequently over a period 
of several weeks. Cultivate lightly to germinate them, then clean the ground. 
There should be Four Inches of good Top Soil—If the top soil is not light to medium loam, make it so, by 
applying 1 bale of Imported Peat Moss to each 250 sq. ft. (10 by 25) of area. Do not work in deeper than 4 
inches. If it is still quite heavy after adding the Peat, add some River Sand to it. 
Enrich the Top Soil—Apply 100 lbs. of weed-free, disease-free Groz-it to an area of 400 sq. ft., and mix 
thoroughly with top soil only. Do not risk Barnyard Manures because of weeds and soil pests. Groz-it is recom¬ 
mended because it is a source of beneficial soil bacteria. 
Grub-proof the Seed Bed—Dust over the surface, and cultivate in lightly, 1 lb. of Standard Arsenate of Lead 
to each 250 sq. ft. of area. Do this several days in advance of sowing. This will reduce likelihood of damage by 
Larvae of the Lawn Moth, Angle Worms, etc., and will discourage certain weeds. 
Put the Finishing Touches to the Seed Bed—Rake out all small lumps and clods. Roll crosswise to make a 
firm seed bed with an even, level surface. 
Select Seed Suited to Your Conditions—As the character of the lawn turf is determined chiefly by the 
varieties and proportions of grass included in the mixtures sown, it is important that some judgment be exercised 
in selecting the seed or seed mixture suited to the exposure, grade, type of soil, and to the use to which the turf 
is to be put. 
Study our list of Lawn Grass Seeds—It will be noted that there are seeds suited to definite conditions, sun, 
shade, light soils, heavy soils, etc. It will also be noted that the higher priced seeds cover the greatest area to the 
pound. 
Soak the Seed Bed Thoroughly—The seed bed should be thoroughly saturated, the day before planting. 
Choose a Calm Period for Seeding—Mix the seed with several times its bulk of clean river sand, or screened 
soil. Divide into two parts, sow half lengthwise of the entire area, and the other half crosswise of the entire area. 
Rake the seed in lightly with a chopping motion, not a pulling motion, covering the seed slightly, about J^-inch. 
Roll again after Seeding—Tamp with a board, or roll, to press the seed into the soil. Cross roll, to make a 
good job. 
Supply a Top Mulch—Apply a top dressing, about ^-in. thick, consisting of two parts Imported Peat Moss 
and one part screen soil, prepared and moistened the day previous, to keep the peat from blowing. 
Don’t let the Surface Dry Out—Through a Ross No. 10, 11 or 20 Fan Sprinkler, direct the spray upward so 
it will fall gently, simulating rain. The frequency of waterings, until the seed germinates, will depend upon the 
weather. The more permanent lawn grasses take much longer to germinate than the short-lived grasses. 
Don’t allow the Weeds to become Established—The saddest mistake in lawn making is to hold to the belief 
that the first cutting will destroy the weeds. Weeds must be pulled daily as they appear, and by the time of the 
first cutting there should not be a weed in the area. 
The Mower must be Sharp—Wait until grass is at least 4-in. high before mowing. Be certain the mower is 
freshly sharpened and the cutting blades set high. Use a grass catcher. (Raking will disturb the surface and pull 
out young plants). It is very important that the lawn be rolled after each of the first three or four cuttings. 
LAWN CARE 
Thoroughly Wash Borrowed Lawn Tools—Quite a percentage of weeds are unwittingly introduced into weed- 
free lawns, on Lawn Tools. Thoroughly wash all borrowed lawn implements, mower, etc., and if you hire a 
Contract Gardener insist that he do likewise. 
Mowing—Close mowing limits root development, and in turn the food and water supply of the plant. The 
longer growth of grass stays green longer during a period of drought, and less water is required in the summer 
months. 
Feeding—After the third cutting apply about 4 lbs. of Gaviota Garden & Lawn Fertilizer to the 100 sq. ft. 
when grass is dry. Follow with thorough soaking to carry plant food down to roots. Alternate during the life of 
the Lawn between Ammo-Phos, Gaviota and Groz-it. 
Watering—After a firm, thick lawn turf is established use a Whirling Shower. Leave on one spot until the 
ground is saturated. Don’t water again until the lawn needs it. Daily sprinkling is harmful for it draws the roots 
to the surface. 
To Water Evenings or during the Day—All large public and private lawn areas are watered during the usual 
daylight working hours, without injury. Evening and night watering has been found to encourage Brown Patch 
Disease in the fine-leaved turfs which include the Fescue and Bent grasses. 
Weeds in Established Lawns—Weeds should never be allowed to take hold. They should be eliminated and 
the bare spots sowed with seed. 
Dandelions and Broad-leaved Weeds—Sparse areas of Dandelion, Plantain, etc., mav be killed by piercing 
the crown of the plant with a pointed instrument previously dipped in Concentrated Weed Destroyer. Large 
areas of these weeds are treated with a solution of 1 Vz lbs. Sulphate of Iron (See Fertilizers) in 1 gal. of water. 
Spray the weeds with it after sundown. Will sometimes control Chickweed and Clover. The grass tips will be 
darkened, but not injured. 1 gal. of the solution will cover about 350 sq. ft. Do not apply to fine-leaved lawns, 
Bents, etc. 
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