CHAS. C. NAVLET CO. 
1885-1935 
HERE ARE SOME GOOD TIPS 
To determine the number of units (plants, or roots, or trees) per acre. Multiply the width between the plants, 
by the width between the rows and divide the answer into 43,560. An acre is approximately 209 feet square. 
In measuring-out Liquid Spray Materials, Gardeners are usually confused and perplexed to know how to make 
up small amounts at the strengths or dilutions recommended on the package. This table will solve the difficulty : 
(tsp—teaspoonful. tbsp—tablespoonful). 
Dilution 
% 
1-Quart 
1-Gallon 
3 Gallons 
1 to 
1000 
.... 
14 -tsp. 
1-tsp. 
1 to 
800 
.... 
x 4 -tsp. 
114-tsp. 
14-oz. 
l to 
500 
.... 
V 2 -tsp. 
2-tsp. 
3 A -OZ. 
1 to 
400 
.... 
%-tsp. 
3-tsp. 
1-oz. 
1 to 
300 
.... 
1-tsp. 
1-tbsp. 
1 Y 2 -ozs. 
1 to 
200 
.... 
1 ^ 4 -tsp. 
1 !4 -tbsp. 
2-ozs. 
1 to 
100 
1 
214 -tsp. 
2 y 2 -tbsp. 
3 3 A -ozs. 
1 to 
50 
2 
1 14-tbsp. 
5-tbsp. 
1-cup. 
l to 
32 
3 
2-tbsp. 
Yz -cup 
114-cup. 
1 to 
25 
4 
214 -tbsp. 
10-tbsp. 
2-cups 
1 to 
20 
5 
314-tbsp. 
12-tbsp. 
114 -pts. 
1 to 
16 
6 
4-tbsp. 
1-cup 
114 -pts. 
Note: The 
amounts 
are not always exact, 
but are as close as 
can be given in round 
numbers. 
Standards of Measure used in compilation of the table above, as used by most manufacturers on the basis of 
4 tsp. to 1 tbsp. However some few use other ratios so Gardeners must ascertain which basis is given in the manufac¬ 
turers recommendation before employing these tables. 
4 teaspoonfuls equals 1 tablespoonful; 2 tablespoonfuls equals 1 fluid ounce (8-tsp) ; 4 tbsp. equals ^4-cup¬ 
ful ; 16 tbsp. equals 1 cupful; 16 fluid ounces equals 1 pint (32 tbsp) ; 2 cupfuls equals 1 pint; 4 cupfuls equals 
1 quart (64 tbsp) ; 250 level teaspoonfuls accepted as equalling 1 quart instead of 256 to simplify computation. 
PRUNING HINTS 
BUDDING AND GRAFTING HINTS 
All the different kinds of pruning there are to be done 
may be classed under the 3 followdng heads. Of course, 
two or three of these may be applied to the same plant, 
but they are distinct, nevertheless : 
1. Pruning to increase general health and vigor. 
2. Pruning to get a special form of growth. 
3. Pruning to increase quantity or improve quality. 
The first step in any kind of pruning should be to de¬ 
termine just what it is we want to accomplish. 
Vigorous plants should be pruned less severely than 
weak growing plants. 
The more vigorous parts of the plant should be pruned 
more severely than the weaker growths. 
As a general rule, the earlier in the development of the 
plant or limb, or shoot, the pruning required can be done, 
the better. 
In using pruning shears, four points are to be remem¬ 
bered : First—Always leave a clean, smooth cut. Second 
-—Cut just the right distance above the bud. Third— 
Prune above an outside bud. Fourth—Cut close up to and 
parallel with the main branch, trunk or stem. (It is well 
to disinfect all pruning tools before using). 
For the purpose of pruning, the ornamental shrubs 
should be considered in two general groups: First— 
Those which flower usually in the spring or early sum¬ 
mer, from buds on the wood of the previous season’s 
growth. This group should be pruned green directly after 
flowering. By dormant pruning, many of the flower buds 
would be sacrificed. Examples : 
Azalea (Ghent, Mollis) 
Berberis (Barberry) 
Bignonia (Trumpet Vine) 
C. oxyacantha 
(Hawthorne) 
Deutzia 
Forsythia (Golden Bell) 
Hydrangea, Hortensis 
Jasminum 
Kudzu Vine 
Honeysuckle 
Philadelphus 
(Mock Orange) 
Prunus (Flwrg. Almond) 
Rhododendron 
Roses (Clbg. varieties) 
Spirea Thunbergii 
S. Prunifolia 
(Bridal Wreath) 
Spirea Van Houteii 
Viburnum (Snowball) 
Weigelia 
Wistaria, etc. 
Second—Those which flower, usually during late sum¬ 
mer or in early autumn, from buds on the current year’s 
growth. This group should be pruned dormant before 
growth begins in the spring. Examples: Calycanthus 
(Sweet Shrub); Clematis Jackmanii; Genista (Rock 
Broom); Honeysuckle; Hydrangea paniculata; Roses 
(Garden Bush Varieties); Spirea; Viburnum Tinus. 
Please include Sales Tax within the State of California 
Budding is a form of graftage wherein a bud from one 
plant is inserted underneath the bark or stock of another. 
It must be done when the bark of the stock is still 
loose, or will peel, which is in spring and summer. 
Twigs are cut from the tree which it is desired to 
propagate, and the buds are cut off with a sharp knife— 
a shield shaped bit of bark (with possibly a little wood) 
being left with them. 
Make a T-shaped incision in the stock, a little longer 
than the bud. Roll back the bark, then shove the bud 
into the slit until firmly placed against the inner wood. 
Tie with a soft strand, starting above the bud and work¬ 
ing downward, making sure that the strand is directly 
above and below the bud to press the bark firmly against 
it. 
In two or three weeks the bud will have “stuck” (that 
is, it will have grown fast to the stock), and the strand 
is cut to prevent its strangling and cutting into the 
swelling stock. 
Ordinarily, the bud does not grow until the following 
spring, at which time the entire stock or branch in which 
the bud is inserted is cut off an inch above the bud, and 
the bud thereby receives all the energy of the stock. 
Grafting. The success of the simple operation depends 
entirely on the growing together of the cambium of the 
cion (or cutting) and that of the stock. The Cambium is 
the new and growing tissue which lies underneath the 
bark and on the outside of the growing wood. Therefore, 
the line of demarcation between the bark and the wood 
must coincide when the cion and stock are joined. 
The greater part of grafting is performed when the 
cion is nearly or quite dormant, that is, usually in winter 
and early in spring. 
In grafting on small stocks, it is customary to employ 
the whip-graft. Both stock and cion of approximately the 
same diameter are cut across diagonally, and a split made 
in each, so that one fits into the other. The graft is tied 
securely with a band, and then if it is above ground, it 
is carefully waxed. 
In larger limbs or stocks out of doors, the usual 
method is the cleft-graft. This consists in cutting off the 
stock from 6 inches to 2 feet from the main trunk, split¬ 
ting it from the top for a short distance and inserting a 
slender wedge-shaped cion with three or four healthy 
dormant buds in one or both sides of the split, making 
certain that the wedge is just below the upper surface of 
the cut. Cover the tips of the cions and stump of stock 
with Snow’s or M&P Grafting Wax (listed elsewhere). 
This must be done with some care to make certain air is 
excluded so the cion and stock will not dry out. 
62 
