September 1, 1894. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
7 
with an abundance of roots. The inner face of the 
side and terminal lobes in the typical form, is simply 
yellow, and streaked with red. The present flower¬ 
ing is no doubt abnormal, and due to the plant 
having been so recently introduced. When once it 
has become acclimatised to its surroundings, it will, 
in all probability, revert to its normal season in 
March and April. 
--*•- 
The Stove. 
At this season of the year air should be freely 
admitted on all favourable occasions, and the bottom 
ventilators should never be quite closed—day or 
night. Special care must be taken that no plant 
suffers from lack of water, as the pots should now 
be pretty well filled with roots, and when in that 
condition it is astonishing what a quantity of water 
a vigorous plant will take. If any potting is found 
to be necessary it should be attended to at once, in 
order to allow the plants to get well established in 
their new quarters before the approach of winter. 
In any case large shifts should be avoided. Regulate 
the growth of creepers and keep a sharp eye to the 
cleanliness of the plants. 
Thrips. —These are, perhaps, the most to be 
dreaded of all the insect pests with which the 
gardener has to contend (with the exception of red 
spider) and they often cause a lot of trouble and do 
a deal of damage during late summer and autumn 
months. In this case, as in many others, “ Prevention 
is better than cure,” and a liberal use of the syringe 
is the best way to keep stove foliage plants clean and 
healthy. 
Caladiums that were started into growth at the 
beginning of the year will now be ripening their 
tubers. The supply of water at the root should 
therefore be reduced, although under no considera¬ 
tion should they be allowed to get dry or the tubers 
will shrivel. 
Crotons and Dracaenas. —Where plants for in¬ 
door decoration are in great request it is always 
desirable to have a number of these useful decora¬ 
tive subjects at hand. If necessary, cuttings of 
these may now be taken, as they will make nice 
little plants of a handy size for the dinner table or 
the drawing-room by spring. Take the tops off 
any large shoots, and insert them singly in thumb 
pots, usiDg a compost of two parts loam and one 
part good leaf soil, with a liberal addition of sharp 
sand. It is a good plan to tie up the leaves of the 
cuttings to a stake, greater safety being thus 
obtained. Plunge the pots in a propagating frame 
with a temperature of not less than 75? Fahr. 
The Greenhouse. 
Many plants in this department will now be needing 
stimulation in the way of liquid manure. A solution 
of cow manure and soot mixed will be found to pro¬ 
duce as good results as anything, although it must 
be carefully applied. 
NERINES.--These beautiful bulbous plants may be 
classed amongst the most beautiful greenhouse sub¬ 
jects we have. Natives of Southern Africa, they 
are never difficult to grow, and should find a place 
in every garden. N. sarniensis and N. curvifolia 
(better known as N. Fothergillii) are the ones most 
frequently met with. These will now be throwing 
up their flower scapes. After the complete rest, 
which Nerines need after growth is completed, 
water should be given gradually. When in full 
vigour, however, plenty of water must be given 
them, and liquid manure may be applied with 
advantage. 
Pits and Frames. 
The resources of the propagating department will 
now be taxed to the utmost. Where the propagation 
of bedding plants has not been commenced, no time 
should be lost in making a start, as in most establish¬ 
ments this is an operation that takes some consider¬ 
able time and often extends well on towards the end 
of September. The more tender plants, such as 
Alternantheras, Mesembryanthemum, Iresines, etc., 
will be found to strike very readily if the pots con¬ 
taining the cuttings are plunged to the rims in a 
hot-bed. Where Hyacinths, Narcissi, Crocuses, 
etc., are in request during spring, the potting of the 
bulbs should not be delayed too long. Most nur¬ 
serymen recommend their customers to send in their 
orders for bulbs in good time if good sound material 
is required. 
Mignonette. —Seeds may now be sown in pots 
for winter blooming. Thin out the seedlings as soon 
as large enough, leaving three to each pot, which 
will be found amply sufficient for all purposes. Keep 
them in a cold frame and give plenty of air, or the 
young plants will become drawn and comparatively 
worthless. 
Pelargoniums. —Those plants which ripened 
their wood early and were first cut down will now be 
far enough advanced for potting. Knock them out 
of their pots and shake as much of the old soil from 
the roots as possible. Repot into a smaller size, 
using a compost of good fibrous loam two parts, leaf 
soil one part, with plenty of silver sand. Put them 
in a frame and keep close for a few days until they 
have recovered in a measure from the check. More 
air may then be given. In no case should coddling 
be allowed, or weak spindly growth will inevitably 
result. 
It will be found beneficial if a light dewing over¬ 
head with the syringe be given the plants during 
bright afternoons. Primulas, Cinerarias, and her¬ 
baceous Calceolarias will need attention with regard 
to potting. A cold frame having a northern aspect 
will suit Cinerarias admirably. A close watch must 
be kept, however, for the appearance of mildew. 
The present wet cold season is particularly favour¬ 
able to its development, and happy indeed will be 
the gardener with whom it does not claim acquaint¬ 
ance. The old method of dealing with mildew by 
dusting sulphur over the affected parts has not yet 
been beaten. A fairly strong solution of soft soap 
carefully applied will also often check its ravages.— 
A. S. G. 
-—— 
Odontoglossum crispum.— Preparations for re¬ 
potting the bulk of the Crispums grown here will 
now be pushed forward without delay, as we like to 
get them finished off before getting too far through 
September. The season seems to have been what 
Odontoglossums like for I never saw them look 
better, and this makes the repotting of them a real 
pleasure. But before this can be done it is necessary 
not only to get plenty of fresh Sphagnum Moss 
picked, good fibrous peat broken up and clean crocks 
and pots ready, but a'so to prepare the plants them¬ 
selves for the change by allowing them to get moder¬ 
ately dry before shaking them out or rather turning 
them out of their pots. 
This we think is of the greatest importance as the 
old compost is more easily removed, and the roots 
being dry they will take hold of the new material, 
(which must not be too wet or too dry) more readily, 
In some cases where the peat is in fairly good con¬ 
dition it may not be necessary to remove every 
particle of the old material, but as much of the old 
moss as possible should be removed, for this decays 
much quicker than peat if the latter is good. 
Overpotting.— This should be avoided with all 
Odontoglossums especially Crispums, neither do we 
recommend that the plants be elevated more than 
an inch above the rim of the pot, if a 48. This does 
away with galvanized pegs which cannot be but in¬ 
jurious if left in very long. 
Mixing the Compost.— Some excellent growers 
have all the peat moss and bits of broken crocks or 
charcoal mixed all up together on the bench, I must 
confess it saves time but I do not like the practice. 
Our plan is to have separate lumps of peat and moss 
on the bench, the plant is held in position by the left 
hand and the peat and moss packed in alternately 
with the right hand, and when done the loose bits 
are clipped off with a pair of sharp scissors which 
gives a neat and workman-like appearance to the 
whole. A gentle sprinkle overhead with a rose 
waterpot before returning them to their quarters is 
all they will require for a day or two direct, but 
should we be lucky enough to get some bright sunny 
weather keep them going by gentle syringing over¬ 
head. 
Thrips. —These are very fond of Odontoglossoms 
and will soon do a lot of damage to the plants with¬ 
out our seeing it, unless we are very sharp. When the 
repotting is done, it is a good plan to have a rather 
strong solution of tobacco water by your side so that 
plants with the least signs of their presence, may 
receive a dipping and no harm would be done if all 
the plants were dipped whether they wanted it or 
not. That is what we do.— C. 
Spring Onions. 
The season for these on the whole has been a good 
one, though, owing to so much wet in March, sowing 
on heavy soils had to be deferred till later than 
usual, but as the weather was afterwards warm 
germination soon took place, and the plants grew 
away freely so that no time was lost by later sow¬ 
ings. The heavy rains about the middle of July 
caused the plants to mildew in some places, the 
bulbs, however, had attained a fair size by that 
time, so but little harm was dene by it. Most of 
them will by this time have completed their growth 
and when this is matured the bulbs ought to be 
pulled up and spread out thinly on a hard path or 
some such likeplace where they may ripen. Should 
the weather continue showery it will be necessary 
to turn them frequently so that they may not suffer 
in consequence of the wet. All thick-necked ones 
ought to be picked out for present use, as these will 
not keep, and would have a tendency to cause the 
others to rot. 
Storing and Keeping Onions. 
Those who have no convenient place for storing the 
bulbs would do well to tie them up in bunches and 
hang them in a cool, dry, airy shed. A close damp 
atmosphere should be avoided as such has a 
tendency to cause them to start into growth early, 
and would therefore spoil them. The different 
varieties should be kept separate, the best keeping 
sorts being saved till last. Brown Globe and James’ 
Keeping are both good ones for late use. Onions 
before being stored should have all the loose skin 
rubbed off them, as this has a tendency to hold 
moisture. None, however, except that which is 
actually loose ought to be removed, as the least 
injury would cause the bulbs to decay. The ground 
on which Onions have been growing will be in good 
heart, and may be used for a variety of crops, it 
should therefore be prepared as soon as cleared so 
that no time be wasted in planting. 
French Beans. 
Preparations should now be made if not already 
done for sowing a batch of these to succeed those in 
the open ground. In warm sheltered places on high 
ground a south border may be selected, and the seed 
sown in such a manner that it may have the pro¬ 
tection of a frame as soon as there is danger of frost. 
In the North it will be necessary to sow in pits that 
are heated, for though no artificial heat will be 
needed for some time to come it may be of great 
assistance in case there should be several dull wet 
days succeeding each other when the plants are in 
bloom. Last season those sown in the open ground 
gave a good supply in most districts till quite late in 
the autumn, but some seasons we have early frosts 
which cuts them off in September. 
If sown on a border to be protected, the seed 
should be put in single rows allowing six inches 
between each. The rows may be from sixteen to 
eighteen inches apart, for if the season be mild the 
plants will grow strong and would therefore get over¬ 
crowded if sown closer. It will not be necessary to 
cover with glass till there are signs of frost, though 
it is always well to be on the safe side, and have the 
lights in readiness in case of need. We have seen 
both French Beans and Marrows cut down in the 
extreme south in the beginning of September, while 
in the same season they have stood untouched by 
frost till well on in October in the more northern parts of 
the kingdom. Much depends on the situation, so 
that the cultivator must be somewhat guided in his 
operations by the locality in which he lives. French 
Beans are always in request and are more particu¬ 
larly so when other green summer vegetables are 
scarce, and as a batch may be raised in the autumn 
with so little difficulty it is always advisable to do so 
as they will prolong the season till some of the forced 
vegetables are ready for use. 
Autumn Peas. 
Where these were sown with a view of being pro¬ 
tected later on, greater care will be needed to guard 
against mildew, which at this season of the year is 
very prevalent. Should there be any signs of this 
pest, dust the plants at once with sulphur and repeat 
this each time it is washed off by the rain. Have 
material in readiness for protection in case of frost, 
but do not cover the plants unless actually obliged 
for peas do not like a close atmosphere. —Kitchen 
Gardener. 
