September 1, 1894. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
II 
troubling themselves to go into the houses to note 
the thermometer. A good stoker will do that, and 
by placing his hand on the pipes, or even putting 
his nose inside a house, can tell whether the fire 
needs a little driving, or if he can bank it up with¬ 
out. 
Where coal is used the flues around the boiler 
often require sweeping, and the stoke-hole should be 
cleaned out once a week—Saturdays being the usual 
day for such work—running the ashes through a 
sieve, thereby economising the cinders; have a 
separate heap outside for clinkers and ashes. The 
latter will be handy for the bottoms of pits and 
frames, plunging material, or they may be dug into 
the kitchen garden if the soil is stiff and tenacious- 
— Pathfinder. 
- 
STRAWBERRIES IN POTS. 
When preparing to raise a stock of Strawberries 
for forcing, a consideration of the first importance 
is the selection of healthy free-bearing plants, for 
unless these are secured partial or total failure will 
be the result. It is now generally recognised that 
Strawberries will become barren, and it frequently 
happens that these flowerless crowns send out 
numerous strong and healthy runners, which unfor- 
fortunately prove, like their parents, barren and 
unfruitful. Before commencing to layer any runners 
it is better to have a look over the quarters and 
weed out all these barren plants and any which are 
not true to name. Then go along the rows, select 
the most promising runners, clear all surplus ones 
away, and make sufficient holes round the plants to 
receive the 3 in. pots intended for the runners. Let 
these holes be of sufficient depth to leave a space of 
an inch or more below the bottom of the pots. This 
allows the surplus water to drain away and will 
serve to keep the plants from rooting into the soil 
when the roots get through the drainage holes. 
If good fibrous loam can be had, use it in a rough 
state without drainage, but if, as often happens, 
inferior sifted soil is used, drainage will be necessary. 
Use perfectly clean pots, and having them filled and 
placed in position, proceed with the layering by 
securing the runner either with a peg of birch from 
a disused broom, pebbles, or a strip of raffia. This 
latter method is, to our way of thinking, the neatest 
and quickest method of the three, and as I think it 
is not very generally known, a line of explanation 
may be acceptable to some. Have the raffia cut 
into 2 in. lengths, pass it over the stems of the 
runner close up to the crown and press its ends 
closely into the soil of the pot sufficiently firm to 
hold it tightly. One great advantage is that there 
is nothing when the plants are severed from the 
stools to clear away. Pegs also take much longer to 
make and pebbles to collect, in addition to the time 
expended in clearing them away. 
Water the layers freely as this causes them to 
emit roots quickly ; and on no account should they 
be allowed to become dry, as nothing weakens them 
more than this. Look over them frequently to see 
if the roots are coming through the bottom of the 
pots, because as soon as this happens the plants 
should be removed at once with a view to re-potting 
them, for if they get matted round the pots, a check 
is given which causes delay, The fruiting pots 
should be thoroughly well washed if they have been 
in use before, and if new well-soaked before being 
used. What are generally know as 32’s are mostly 
used. Some use a size smaller for very early work, 
and for late work, I have known No. 24 used for 
British Queen with the most satisfactory results. 
But this large size takes much longer to get well 
filled with roots, and unless the pots are full of roots 
the crowns will not ripen as they should do, and the 
flower stems will come weakly and scanty in number. 
Use for potting good fibrous loam which has been 
stacked up two or three months. To three barrow¬ 
fuls add one of well-rotted stable manure and a 
few shovelfuls of bone meal, mix well together and 
pot very firm. Allow nearly an inch for water, so 
that when watering is required a thorough soaking 
can be insured. Avoid getting the crowns either 
too low down in the soil or elevated above it, just 
resting upon its surface is the right position. 
When potted, either place them on slates or 
boards, or else on a good thickness of coal ashes in 
a sunny position. A better plan is after placing 
them on a thick bed cf ashes at a sufficient distance 
apart to allow room for the proper development of 
foliage to fill in between the pots with some plunging 
material. This keeps the roots at a more equable 
temperature, and is a great saving in watering. 
Give a good syringing every dry evening, and see 
that they never suffer from lack of moisture at the 
root. When the pots become fairly filled with roots 
give a watering every third or fourth time with weak 
liquid manure. Among the artifical manures tried 
I have found Beeson’s one of the best for Straw¬ 
berries. As winter approaches discontinue the use 
of the syringe and keep them drier at the roots. 
Keep all runners and small crowns that form at the 
base of the plants persistently removed. When 
winter fairly sets in cover up the surface of the pots 
with dry ashes, and if they have to remain in the 
plunging bed from want of better accommodation 
some light litter thrown over in case of intense frost 
ought to be provided. 
The old plan of stacking them against a wall is, I 
think, most objectionable, because of the balls 
shrinking away from the sides of the pots when they 
become dry, leaving the roots exposed on the upper 
sides to frost and air. I have seen them plunged 
four and six pots wide in beds, and a wooden shutter 
span-shaped fixed over them at just sufficient height 
to allow of their being watered. This sheltered 
them from excessive rains and answered in all 
respects most admirably, leaving pit room which 
might otnerwise have been occupied with them free 
for other things. 
Forcing may be commenced with the earlier sorts 
from the first layerings by the middle of December, 
but the first week in January is early enough for 
most people; should they be wanted by any particular 
date it must be borne in mind that it generally takes 
from eleven to thirteen weeks from the date at 
which they are started till they are finished off, the 
difference of one or two weeks arising from the 
favourable or adverse conditions of the weather 
during the time. When selecting for the earliest 
crop choose the plumpest and best ripened crowns, 
remove all dead foliage, see that the drainage is 
right, and remove a portion of the surface soil, and 
top dress with a mixture of sifted horse droppings 
and loam, pressing it down firm, then plunge the 
pots in a bed of fresh leaves in a pit quite near the 
glass, from which frost must be excluded. Give a 
watering to settle the new soil, in all likelihood not 
more than two or three more waterings will be 
requisite before the flower spikes appear, which if 
the pit is kept close they will soon do, when they 
should be selected, taking the most forward first. 
Wash the pots and remove to a forcing house, 
placing them again near the glass. Where a large 
quantity are grown and a constant succession is kept 
up, successive batches of plants should be worked 
through in this way every week or two. A tempera¬ 
ture of 45® to 50° at night with a rise of io° by fire 
heat during the day and another rise of 5? to io° 
with sun heat during the time they are in flower, 
increasing it gradually from the time the fruit is set 
to 60 9 at night with a corresponding rise in the day¬ 
time. 
As the earliest crops come into flower pass a 
camel’s hair brush over them when the pollen is dry 
till a fair crop is secured ; later in the season when 
there is more sunshine passing the hand lightly over 
the bloom or a slight syringing will be sufficient. 
When enough crown fruits are secured thin all out 
to about a dozen fruits of an equal size so that all 
may ripen together, and remove all surplus growths 
that the energies of the plant may be directed to the 
perfecting of the fruits. Syringing twice a day will 
usually be required till they are in bloom, during 
which time a drier and more buoyant atmosphere 
should be aimed at till the fruit is set then a more 
free use of the syringe must be resorted to till the 
ripening process commences, but in these matters 
some judgment must be used, and ventilation and 
moisture regulated to some extent according to the 
variations of the weather. Air-tight houses ought 
when the plants are flowering and ripening fruit to 
have a little air on at night whenever possible. 
The careful watering of Strawberries in pots is of 
vital importance, for any stagnant water which may 
arise from defective drainage or careless watering on 
the one hand and excessive dryness at the root are 
both highly injurious. Never give a little which 
will penetrate but a little way down, but when 
water is required give enough to soak through the 
balls of the plants, and from the time the fruit is set 
till it commences to colour, water with liquid manure 
twice a week ; avoid wetting the foliage flowers or 
fruit with it as far as can be avoided by pouring it 
in at the sides of the pots. Red spider and green 
fly are the chief insect foes of forced Strawberries, 
but the free use of the syringe does much to keep 
them at bay. At the same time, smoking has 
generally to be resorted to and is better done just 
before flowering commences, doing it two evenings 
in succession and repeating it after the fruit is well 
set. During the colouring of the fruit, expose it well 
to the sun and when necessary peg back any foliage 
which shades it from the sun. 
Our best early crops have been from Vicomtesse 
Hericarte de Thury, though Keen’s Seedling is 
still a great favourite with many. This requires 
special care in selecting the runners because it is so 
liable to produce barren plants. Sir J. Paxton and 
President have both been extensively grown by a 
market friend, who stands them on the floors of 
narrow, low, span-roofed houses with remarkable 
success. He, before arranging the plants; gives the 
soil on which the plants are to be stood a good 
sprinkling of Beeson’s manure; the plants root 
through the pots and get most of the stimulant he 
gives them in that way. For late work, considering 
size and flavour, we have never seen British Queen 
beaten. Auguste Nicaise will produce enormous 
fruits, presenting a splendid appearance, and if for 
any especial reason monster fruit is desired some 
of it should be grown. Sir C. Napier is a beautiful¬ 
looking fruit somewhat acid, forces and bears well. 
— W.B.G. 
———- 
SNOWDROPS. 
The well-known and ever-welcome appearance of 
the modest-looking Snowdrop with its nodding or 
drooping snow-white flowers in mid-winter tells of 
the forthcoming of spring and summer. Their 
chaste and beautiful flowers are capable of produc¬ 
ing a greater effect when associated with the winter 
Aconite, Glory of the Snow, or the early purple and 
yellow Crocuses planted and mixed by the fifties or 
hundreds indiscriminately in round or circular beds, 
in irregular lines bordering carriage drives, on the 
borders of herbaceous or Rhododendron beds, on 
banks, on rockeries, or when planted in grass on the 
lawns. In such situations the Snowdrop has neither 
equal or rival. The imposing effect created by such 
planting is undescribable. 
The Snowdrop, inexpensive as it is, should find a 
place in all gardens. It is not suited only for the 
garden, but may be used with great advantage and 
for effect in window boxes, pots, fancy vases, etc., 
for room and conservatory decoration, where they 
brighten up the shadowy and dull places occupied 
by foliage plants. They are not at all capricious as 
regards soil, though they increase with greater 
rapidity and flower with more vigour when planted 
in deep, rich, and rather sandy material. On heavy 
clayey soils they do not succeed or seem at all 
happy, and have a peculiar way of disappearing 
altogether. In heavy soils I would recommend 
lovers of the Snowdrop to dig out a portion of the 
aforesaid soils, and replace it with fibrous loam, 
coarse sand, and a little peat, so as to form per¬ 
manent beds in a position where they can remain 
undisturbed for several years. The site to choose, 
if available, would be a bank slightly on the incline 
and where they can have the shade of trees, and 
revel among their roots. 
The Snowdrop has become quite a general favourite 
as a cut flower, and is used to a great extent in 
bouquets, buttonholes, etc., as well as for table 
decorations. When cut in bud and allowed to 
develop in water they last for a much longer period 
than when allowed to develop on the plants ; lasting 
oftentimes from ten days to a fortnight. Perhaps 
the most showy and most useful of all Snowdrops is 
*■ Elwesi,” from Asia Minor, with large globose outer 
segments, and deep green inner segments; 
" Plicatus ” from the Crimea, very distinct, " Lati- 
folius,” from the Caucasus, with distinct broad 
bright green leaves ; “ Imperati," large flowers, tall 
grower, very handsome. The common Snowdrop 
Nivalis, and its double form are well enough known 
and need no description. Of all flowers the Snow¬ 
drops are deservedly worth cultivating in large 
quantities, as they afford a wonderful amount of 
interest, and require little attention.—IF. L. 
