October 27, 1894. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
135 
side, and care should be taken when removing old 
leaves from them that they are not unduly disturbed. 
— A. S. G. 
Cattleya House : Vandas. —Now is a good time 
to overhaul such species as V. tricolor and V. 
sauvis, cutting down those that have become leggy 
through having lost their lower leaves, &c. The 
majority of ours were lowered last autumn, and will 
only require to be resurfaced with fresh sphagnum 
moss. With this we mix a good quantity of clean 
crocks broken up fine, this is much better than 
silver sand, as it keeps the compost more open. 
Some we grow in pots and for small plants no doubt 
they are best, and for large ones, too, if intended 
for exhibition as they are better to handle. 1 must 
say though that our best plants are grown in baskets, 
in which they flower twice during the season. 
When affording these plants fresh material we use 
peat and moss in equal parts, which they seem to 
appreciate. The one drawback to basket culture is 
that there is some difficulty in getting the plants 
out of the basket when they require a new one with¬ 
out damaging a lot of the roots ; on the other hand 
the roots get a free circulation of air about them 
which they naturally like. 
Laelia anceps. —The spikes of these plants 
should now be got into position so that the blooms, 
when open, will all face one way. The plants, too, 
should be so placed that the spikes do not touch the 
glass and so get injured by a sudden change in the 
outside temperature, such as we had on October 16th, 
which cut all the tender things down in this 
district. 
Cattleya labiata.— These are quite a fortnight 
later in blooming this year, but promise to be very 
fine. I have counted to-day plenty with four blooms 
to a spike, and these without exception are grown in 
baskets. Those in pots are not only later but poor 
in comparison, which clearly proves that the more 
natural mode of growing them is the best. The 
baskets are suspended, which admits of their re¬ 
ceiving the benefit of a free circulation of air about 
them which, in conjunction with heat and moisture, 
is so essential to them. 
Cool House. —The Odontoglossums are beginning 
to push up their spikes, requiring the watchfulness 
of the man on duty to prevent the slugs from eating 
them off. We make a practice of hanging all plants 
up as soon as they show for flower. This serves as 
a check to the slugs, but oftentimes, evep with this 
precaution, we loose several spikes by very small 
ones that are hidden in the moss. 
Oncidium tigrinum. —This beautiful Orchid is 
just opening its handsome flowers, and will serve to 
keep the cool house gay up to Christmas. Some 
growers fail to grow it well, chiefly, I believe, through 
not allowing it a good season of rest after flowering. 
We ourselves used to think that, like Odonto¬ 
glossums, they require to be kept rather moist and 
shady at all times, and in consequence they never did 
well, but since affording them a good rest we have 
never failed to flower them well.—C. 
♦ 
Current Work. 
It will now be necessary to finish earthing all Celery 
except that for very late use, which should be left 
so long as there is no danger of severe frost. Celery 
is much harder than most people think if it is not 
blanched, it is this bleaching that makes it so tender. 
Fine weather should be chosen for such work, for if 
the foliage and soil be wet at the time the earth is 
put to them the leaf stalks will rot. It is a good 
plan to dust the ground along each side of the rows 
with soot or lime previous to earthing, as this will 
help to ward off the slugs and worms. As too often 
happens in close heavy soils, the hearts of the plants 
are spoiled during the winter months with these 
troublesome pests, therefore precaution should be 
taken to ward them off before any damage is done. 
When earthing see that sufficient soil is put to the 
sides of the rows, to prevent the frost from pene¬ 
trating. The tops of the ridges can be covered with 
litter should severe weather set in. Before doing 
this, boards or other covering should be laid along 
them to prevent the water from running down into 
the hearts, as many plants are spoiled owing to the 
wet lodging in them. 
When earthing is finished smooth the sides of the 
ridges with the back of the spade, as this will cause 
the water to run off more freely, thus preventing the 
soil from slipping down in wet weather. Do not 
cover the tops of the ridges till there is actually a 
necessity, as this would have a tendency to hold 
moisture. See that all growing crops are kept free 
from weeds, and any falling leaves that may blow 
amongst them, for at this time of the year when 
there is so much moisture these would cause the 
plants to suffer considerably if allowed to accumu¬ 
late, and would in time so weaken them that they 
would not be able to withstand the frost during 
winter if severe. 
Forming Rhubarb. 
Forcing of this will soon have to be commenced, 
and plants intended to be started early should be 
taken up and put into a cool shed for a week or two, 
as this has a tendency to give them a check, by 
treating them in this manner they start into growth 
more freely when introduced into the forcing house. 
It is often difficult to get the first batch to start 
freely unless some such mode be adopted, especially 
if old roots are used. We prefer those of two years’ 
growth, as such can be lifted without much injury to 
them, and therefore make stronger leaf stalks. 
Whereas if old clumps have to be taken up many of 
the young roots are cut off in the operation, thus 
rendering them almost useless for such work. Gar¬ 
deners, as a rule, do not pay sufficient attention to 
this part of the work, as there is quite as much care 
needed in preparing plants for forcing as there is in 
forcing them. This should be borne in mind, and if 
a sufficient stock is not at command, young ones 
should be raised. This can be easily done if the 
old roots that have been forced are taken care of as 
they are brought out of the forcing house, for the 
crowns will readily start again if taken off and planted 
after the weather has become sufficiently warm to 
cause quick growth. There is much difference in 
varieties, but none are better for early work than a 
true stock of Reading Ruby, Dancer’s early Scarlet, 
and Royal Albert. For a later supply Myatt’s Vic¬ 
toria is one of the best, therefore a good supply of 
roots of these sorts ought to be had in every estab¬ 
lishment. We mostly find such crops as Rhubarb, 
Horse Radish, Globe Artichokes and Sorrel grown 
in some out-of-the-way place where they have to 
take care of themselves, whereas if properly grown 
a much less space would be needed for them, and 
more satisfactory results would be obtained. Rhu¬ 
barb requires good ground to grow it well, and if of 
a tenacious nature ought to have some light, gritty 
soil worked into it so that the water may pass away 
more freely. Propagation may be done either in 
autumn or spring, the latter, however, is far prefer¬ 
able on heavy soils, as the roots are apt to rot in 
winter after being newly planted. 
Those who have already a stock to work from 
should have no difficulty in keeping up a good supply 
of suitable roots for lifting, those, however, who 
have to purchase should do so from a reliable source, 
as many spurious kinds are in the Market. Crowns 
can be taken off singly with a small piece of root 
attached, and if these are planted 2 ft. apart each 
way, will, in the course of two years, make strong 
roots fit for forcing. If a piece containing as many 
plants as will be required be planted each season, 
there would always be a good stock to draw from, 
thus preventing any anxiety on the part of the gar¬ 
dener, or any trouble with the chef or cook, for the 
latter often causes much mischief if not kept well 
supplied .—Kitchen Gardener. 
-- 
©leanings fit nut flit; Purlh 
nf Science 
Is Poa annua an Annual ?—Generally speaking, 
gardeners, botanists and others, rest satisfied in con¬ 
sidering this plant an annual. When it germinates, 
grows up, flowers, fruits, and dies in the course of a 
few weeks, one would be justified in considering it 
truly an annual; but it seems to us to be a question 
of conditions and environment rather than a hard 
and fast rule as to whether it is an annual or 
perennial. On dry gravelly or sandy soils on roads 
and walks it germinates and grows when the supply 
of moisture is sufficient, but as the warm and dry, 
or relatively dry, period of summer advances it runs 
to seed and generally dies. This may be due to the 
lack of moisture and to the fact that the plant has 
exhausted itself in the production of seeds. In the 
London parks and in other urban or suburban dis¬ 
tricts it often constitutes a large portion of the turf, 
and in such cases, if it were truly annual, the ground 
would be bare and patchy between the dying of one 
crop of plants and another, because the turf or 
carpet of grass is often so dense as to preclude a 
second crop from making advances till the old crop 
had died away sufficiently to leave space for the 
younger generation. In well-kept and sufficiently 
moist turf, whether naturally or artificially so, this is 
not the case. Then again, on the banks of the 
Thames and other rivers in this country, plants of 
Poa annua may be noticed which have ripened a 
crop of seeds, are in full bloom now, and show other 
flower stems in all stages of progression, while the 
small but dense tufts of leaves showing no signs of 
flowering would argue that the plant is prepared to 
go on growing and flowering for an indefinite period, 
and has no intention of dying. These facts would 
seem to prove that the duration of the plant is a 
question of environment and sustenance. These 
views receive corroboration from Professor Henslow 
when speaking “ On the Origin of Plant Structures 
by Self-adaptation to the Environment.” He says 
that “ Poa annua, if grown in plenty of moisture, at 
once becomes a perennial; as it does on the Alps, 
just as several other annuals at lower altitudes, as 
well as latitudes, become perennials when growing at 
higher altitudes and latitudes.” A perennial supply 
of moisture seems to us to have as much influence 
upon Poa annua as altitude. 
Perennials treated as Annuals. —Many plants 
which • are treated as annuals in this country are 
truly perennials in their native habitats, but from 
long custom of sowing and raising them afresh every 
year, we forget their real nature and come to look 
upon them as annuals. The Castor-oil is a good 
instance of this, while in the tropics it becomes a 
small tree with a woody stem. In cooler climates 
it assumes the form of a shrub, but in Britain and 
other temperate climates it gets killed with the first 
frosts of autumn or winter. Now, if the Eucalyptus 
globulus were as easily killed as the Castor-oil, 
cultivators would be apt to look upon it as an annual, 
whereas it is one of the tallest trees on the globe in 
its native home. Tropaeolum majus gets destroyed 
with the earliest frosts, and is by most cultivators 
regarded as an annual, but in a greenhouse it is truly 
perennial. Dahlias would fall into the same 
category if it were not for the fact that the tubers 
are lifted and preserved under suitable conditions 
immediately after the tender leaves get killed by 
frost. The Scarlet Runner has been considered an 
annual by most cultivators until comparatively 
recently, when a few cultivators discovered by 
accident that the somewhat tuberous roots live 
through the winter when protected from frost or if 
the latter is not very severe, and throw up young 
stems the following year. Numerous cultivators 
now testify to the fact that Nicotiana affinis is truly 
a perennial under favourable conditions in the open 
air. Where frost is excluded it lives for many years 
without losing its lower foliage. The Castor-oil, 
Tropaeolum, Scarlet Runner, and Night-scented 
Tobacco above mentioned are, therefore, truly 
perennials. 
Annuals with a perennial habit. —There are 
several annuals which in their spring and summer 
growth appear as if they were meant to be 
perennials. Most of the species of Linaria or 
Toadflax would give the observer this impression if 
examined in the earlier stages of growth, so that 
their peculiarities may be distinctly noted. The 
primary stem of the seedling does not attain any 
great length as a rule, but an indefinite number of 
stems more or less in proportion to the strength of 
the plant arise at a point below the cotyledons of 
the seedling, and really constitute the flowering 
stems. Annual and perennial species in most cases 
behave alike, and seem to be forming a persistent or 
perennial rootstock, but the annuals die after ripen¬ 
ing their seeds. The inference seems to be that the 
species of Linaria were all perennials in ancient 
times, and that though the annuals have changed 
their natures they retain their primaeval habit. 
Several of the annual species of Euphorbia behave 
in the same way.— J■ F. 
