November 10, 1894. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
167 
Camellias. —These will now be fast swelling their 
buds, and great care will be necessary with regard 
to the efficiency of the water supply, for if stinted 
the buds will infallibly drop. Soot-water applied in 
a weak state once or twice a weak will prove of the 
utmost service. 
Liliums. —No time should be lost in potting these 
if the bulbs have come to hand. A compost of two 
parts of good turfy loam to one of well dried manure 
with plenty of sharp sand will be found to answer 
the purpose admirably. In potting, place the bulbs 
well down in the pot and do not fill the pots full of 
soil. When Liliums start into vigorous growth a 
quantity of thick fleshy roots are always emitted 
from the base of the stem, which necessitates a top¬ 
dressing of rich soil and manure. Bearing this in 
mind, space must now be allowed for this top-dress¬ 
ing. After potting, the bulbs may be stood in a 
cold frame or pit to root, no water at all being given 
them until growth has commenced—that contained 
in the soil being quite sufficient for the present. 
Cinerarias. —Keep a sharp look-out for the 
appearance of green fly. Should it appear, a light 
fumigation must be given before it gets a foothold. 
Attention must be paid to the thinning out of the 
plants as growth proceeds. This is a necessary pre¬ 
caution if bushy, healthy specimens are required, for 
if overcrowding is permitted, drawn, weakly plants 
will inevitably be the consequence.— A. S. G. 
-«*■- 
Til ORCHID HOUSES, 
Cattleya Aclandiae.— This is one of those little 
gems that is rather difficult to keep in good condition 
for long together, and, generally speaking, is rather 
shy flowering, but when in bloom it is a charming 
plant. We find it does best grown in baskets with 
very little material about its roots, but this of the 
very best. When growing and until it flowers it 
should be given a copious supply of water at the 
roots, and at no time must it be allowed to shrivel. 
There is no better place for it when growing than 
the stove or East India house, but when at rest the 
Cattleya House is the most suitable place. Ours 
were very late in flowering this year, in fact, they 
are only just over. 
Epidendrum Wallisii. —This is a fine autumn 
and winter flowering Orchid, and is one that does 
well with ordinary care. A compost of peat, 
sphagnum moss, and finely broken up potsherds is 
best for them, and during summer weak manure 
water helps them greatly, but must be discontinued 
now. 
E. prismatocarpum. —If the compost these are 
growing in is at all sour I would recommend a top 
dressing for the new roots, which are just pushing 
from the base of the newly made up bulbs to root 
into. It is too late in the season to repot unless they 
are in a very bad state. They grow well with us on 
the north side of the Cattleya house during the 
summer months, but in winter they should be 
brought more to the light or they will fail to flower 
freely. Water carefully during the dull winter 
months or the foliage will become spotted and the 
new bulbs become diseased. 
Laelia Dayana. —What a grand little Orchid this 
is, and how variable from dark purple to nearly or 
quite white. What interest there is in watching the 
flowers develop the first time it blooms, especially if 
it looks like being a white one. They are of easy 
culture and take up but very little room. We have 
grown them in baskets and in small pans, and in 
both cases they did well, but when it came to 
repotting them those in the pans were the easiest 
to manage, as by breaking the pan carefully very few 
roots were damaged. 
Odontoglossum Rossii majus. —These .do well 
grown suspended close to the roof over the Odonto¬ 
glossum crispum during summer, but in winter they 
should be stood down on the stages, for if left hang¬ 
ing the tips of the foliage may become injured during 
very severe weather. 
Temperatures. —Whilst it keeps so mild it will be 
easy to keep the night temperature up to 688 in the 
East India house, 58S in the Cattleya house, and 
cool house 50?, with a rise of io a by day.— C. 
Vines and Vine Culture.—The best book on Grapes. By 
Archibald F. Barron, Superintendent of the Royal Horticultural 
Society’s Gardens, Chiswick; Secretary of the Fruit Com¬ 
mittee. Demy 8vo., Handsomely bound in Cloth. Price, 5s., 
post free, 5s. 3d. Publisher, Gardening World, i, Clements 
Inn, Strand, W.C, 
Early Peas. 
It is the practice with a great many gardeners to 
make a sowing of Peas in the autumn. On light 
soils and where there is no convenience for raising 
them under glass this is a very good plan, for if the 
season be mild, pods from such sowings may be 
gathered very early, in which case they are always 
serviceable. If the winter should be severe so that 
they are killed, there is still time for sowing in 
spring. The date on which these autumn sowings 
are made must vary according to the locality and 
soil. If sown too early on warm soils in the southern 
counties, the chances are the plants will get very 
forward should the winter be mild, in which case 
they would not be able to withstand the cutting 
March winds. In exposed situations, and on cold 
heavy land, it is almost a waste of time to attempt 
to sow at this time of the year. Most walled-in 
gardens that have been for some time under cultiva¬ 
tion should have the ground sufficiently workable to 
admit of the seed being put in during the present 
month with every chance of success. In the more 
northern counties the seed may be sown from the 
fifteenth to the twentieth of the present month, while 
further south, particularly in sheltered situations, 
from the latter date to the beginning of December 
will be soon enough. 
For these autumn sowings nothing is better than 
Exonian, it is quite as hardy as the round seeded 
kinds, is equally as early, and is an excellent cropper. 
Chelsea Gem is also a good kind, particularly for a 
border, for, owing to its dwarf habit, it can be sown 
closer together, which is a great advantage, for if 
sticks be put to them as soon as they are fairly 
through the soil they will shelter them wonderfully 
from the cold winds. Those who have a liking for 
the round seeded kinds may sow such as Sutton’s 
Ringleader, William I., or Dickson's First and Best. 
There is far more art in sowing these early lots than 
most people imagine. For instance, if the ground is 
dug and lies two or three days before being sown it 
often happens that a quantity of rain falls, which 
renders it unworkable before the seed can be put in, 
and often remains in this state till we have frost, 
which then makes it pasty. At this time of the year 
it is far better to dig and sow as the work proceeds, 
as by so doing there is little fear of being hindered 
should rainy weather set in. We have found it a 
good plan to lay boards about 6 or 8 in. wide along 
the rows as soon as sown, these act as a harbour for 
slugs and snails, if these are examined every two or 
three days it will be found there are hundreds which 
can easily be destroyed. A plank, however, should 
be used to stand on while looking over the rows, 
otherwise the soil would get carried on to the path 
with the shoes. 
Broad Beans. 
Autumn sowings of these are also often made of 
such varieties as Early Magazan or Long pods. 
The latter are, however, preferable, as they produce 
better crops. Instead of sowing, as recommended 
for early Peas, we prefer dibbing the Beans on a 
warm border about 3 in. apart each way. By so 
doing strong plants are to be had by about the 
middle of February. If these are taken up and 
planted in rows across the garden about that time 
they will give an early supply, in fact, earlier than if 
sown in boxes and transplanted in March. We have 
adopted this plan for years and find it to answer 
admirably. 
Store House. 
With so much wet there will be opportunities of 
looking over all roots stored away, so that every 
available opportunity should be taken advantage of 
to remove any that are decayed. Early Potatos 
intended for forcing should be stood on their ends in 
a light airy situation in order to induce them to 
make stout shoots. Any Onions that are going 
decayed or starting into growth should be removed, 
as these will cause others to decay. Shallots ought 
to be looked over in order that all sound bulbs may 
be kept separated from those that have a tendency 
to rot .—Kitchen Gardener. 
Brussels Sprouts, Veitch’s Paragon. 
Those who require a good variety of this esteemed 
vegetable for general use cannot do better than give 
Veitch's Paragon a trial. It is of medium size and 
robust constitution, and will do well on almost any 
soil. The Sprouts are not particularly large, but 
they are very solid and closely set, while they with¬ 
stand sharp frosts exceedingly well, and last in 
season for a long time. On wet, clayey soils we 
have proved Veitch's Paragon to be a really good 
and reliable variety, and as such deem it worthy of 
extensive cultivation.— G. 
-■•>«— ■ — 
©Iqattinga from the sHDmrlti 
nf Science 
The Cabbage Fly. —There are several flies to 
which this name might readily be given, including 
closely allied insects as well as aphides, but it is 
most correctly applied to Anthomyia Brassicae, a 
two-winged hairy fly of a gray colour with some 
black stripes along the back, and the male is even 
darker in hue. It is one of the numerous insects 
which attacks the Cabbage or any other of the mem¬ 
bers of that tribe. In some gardens along the 
Thames Valley it sometimes increases to such an 
extent as to play havoc with Cauliflowers and other 
members of the tribe. The difficulty of exterminat¬ 
ing it lies in the fact that it can live on the roots of 
other Crucifers in a wild state. For instance it may 
be found upon the roots of the Wild Turnip (Brassca 
campestris Rapa) and upon those of Rape or Cole¬ 
seed (B. C. Napa) on the banks of the Thames by 
Rur.nymede and Egham. Below London again it may 
be found upon the roots of the wild Radish 
(Raphanus Raphanistrum) in the fields about Eltham, 
in Kent, and doubtless also at other places where wild 
Crucifers with thick and somewhat fleshy roots 
occur. From those it of course spreads to the culti¬ 
vated members of the Brassica tribe. 
Its Form and Methods of Feeding. —The fly 
itself is liable to be overlooked amongst the multi¬ 
tudes of other flies on the wing during mild weather. 
The grub or maggot is white, legless, cut short at 
the tail end where it is furnished with a few tooth¬ 
like points, and two curious black knobs on the 
flattened end, while it tapers to a pointed head which 
is equally curious in its way. This grub feeds some¬ 
times in large numbers upon the surface of the fleshy 
roots slightly below the surface of the ground, or 
j ust at the collar of the main root where it 
enters the soil. The root gets gnawed away or 
eroded away into hollows in which the grubs ply 
their work of destruction, thus checking the growth 
of the plants or entirely killing them. The roots 
being thus weakened at a dangerous part, the wind 
sometimes completes the work of destruction by 
snapping the stems across ait the base or eaten part. 
Sometimes whole plantations and even fields are 
ruined in this way, and the evil is greatly aggravated 
by wet weather rotting the injured roots or stems. 
The grubs, when full fed, change to a reddish brown 
pupa in the soil, and the pupa develops into the per¬ 
fect fly in the course of a fortnight. There are 
several broods in the course of the season till 
November, when the pupae developed about that 
time, hibernate in the soil till spring. 
Other Pests to be Distinguished. —-There is 
another closely allied insect known as the Root¬ 
eating Fly (Anthomyia radicum) which bores into 
the fleshy root of Radishes and other Crucifers, 
making passages in the same. The habit is there¬ 
fore somewhat different, while the grub is pale 
yellowish, and the pupa of a pale ochreous colour. 
The Cabbage Gall Weevil (Centhorhyncus sulcicollis) 
or its work may readily be distinguished by the small 
excrescences, generally few, or only one formed 
upon the main roots of Cabbages. Each gall or 
nodosity contains only one grub of the beetle, unless 
two galls should happen to be formed in close 
proximity. From the Cabbage Fly it can at once be 
distinguished by the grub being inside the swelling 
or gall. The true clubbing of Cabbages is due to 
the work of a fungus and not to insects, although 
both may be present on the same roots. 
Detection and Remedies. —The presence of 
something at the roots may be detected by the 
stunted appearance of Cabbages, Cauliflowers, and 
related subjects, as well as by the leaves turning 
yellow, or by flagging when the sun is shining 
brightly. Remove a little of the soil, and if the evil 
is due to the Cabbage Fly, the grubs can be seen by 
the naked eye. If the crop is not a very valuable 
one every root should be carefully dug up with all 
the grubs upon them and burnt. It often happens, 
however, that the plants are badly attacked as they 
are becoming fit for use in early summer. Culti¬ 
vators at that time are loth to lose the crop, so that 
means should be devised for destroying the grubs 
by removing the soil from the collar of the plants 
and crushing the grubs. Those still undetected 
would be killed or kept in check by a soaking of 
limewater after it has stood till it becomes clear. 
