November 17, 1894. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
187 
Clarke, G. C. Schwabe, Marie Hoste, Boule d'Or 
(fine), Louise, Etoile de Lyon ; incurved :—Queen of 
England, Lord Alcester, Golden Empress, John 
Lambert, Miss M. A. Haggis, Jeanne d'Arc, Prince 
Alfred, Mr. Bunn, Mad. Darier, Mrs. Heale, and 
Mrs. S. Coleman ; Mr. W. H. Tate (gardener, Mr. 
G. Haigh), Woolton, was second, his Japanese being 
very fine; Mr. F. H. Gossage (gardener, Mr. J. 
Jellicoe), Woolton, was third; and Mr. PI. Tate, 
Junr. (gardener, Mr. J. Edwards), Allerton, fourth. 
For twelve incurved, twelve Japanese, and twelve 
reflexed or anemone-flowered, Mr. A. S. Mather 
(gardener, Mr. H. Howard, Woolton, secured the 
chief position, his finest flowers being of Lord 
Alcester, Mons. R. Bahuant, Baron Hirsch, Mad. 
Darier, Mad. D. O'Shea, Sunflower, Viviand Morel, 
W. H. Lincoln, Col.W. B. Smith,G.C. Schwabe, Chas. 
Davis, M. Sullivan, King of Crimsons, Chevalier 
Domage, J. Smith, Cloth of Gold, etc.; second, Mr. 
J. Findlay. Of eighteen incurved distinct, Mr. T. 
Clegge (gardener, Mr. J. Dutton), Aigburth, bad the 
best, followed by Mrs. B. C. Nicholson (gardener, 
Mr. J. Haynes), Wavertree. There were fourteen 
competitors with twelve varieties. Mr. C. W. 
Carver (gardener, Mr. G. Hignett),and Mrs. Nichol¬ 
son took first and second in the order given. With 
eighteen Japanese distinct, Mr. A. D. McLeod 
(gardener, Mr. J. Mauchline), Windermere, was well 
to the fore with superb blooms, his Viviand Morel, 
Mrs. E. W. Clarke, and Charles Davis, being of 
immense size ; second, Mr. W. S. Gladstone ; third, 
Mr. T. Clegge. For twelve Japanese distinct, Mr. 
W. H. Tate, Mr. W. S. Gladstone, and Mr. A. S. 
Mather, were placed in the order named. The best 
six anemones distinct, came from Mr. H. Cunning¬ 
ham ; and the best six reflexed from Mr. F. H. 
Gossage, who took the silver medal offered by the 
Boundary Chemical Company. 
For a mixed group of plants, Mr. A. L. Jones 
(gardener Mr. J. Bounds), Aigburth, secured the 
highest award for a bright display of Chry¬ 
santhemums. Crotons, Palms and Ferns, Mr. W. 
H. Watts (gardener Mr. J. Bracegirdle), Wavertree, 
followed with a pretty collection, but wanting in 
brightness. In the class for four stove and green¬ 
house Ferns, Mr. T. S. Timmis (gardener Mr. B. 
Cromwell), Allerton, staged grand examples of 
Davallia Fijiensis (6 ft. in diameter), Microlepis 
hirta cristata (6 ft.), Nephrolepis davallioides furcans 
(8 ft.), and Goniophlebium subauriculatum (5 ft.), 
second Mr. J. A. Barilett. For three Orchids, Mr. 
W. H. Watts was a capital first in a strong class 
with Vanda caerulea having twenty-two flowers, 
Cattleya gigas Sanderiana with five flowers, and C. 
gigas imperalis, with six flowers. Second, Mr. T. S. 
Timmis, and third, Mr. H. Tate. Among ten 
exhibitors of a single Orchid, Mr. V. H. Williams 
(gardener, Mr. T. Wilson), Fulwood Park, was first 
with Cattleya aurea. 
Fruit : Although the entries were sixty less than 
last year, some good exhibits were staged. The 
Grapes numbered some seventy bunches, which gave 
considerable trouble to the judges, owing to the bad 
light. For six dishes of Fruit, Mr. A. R. Gladstone, 
(gardener, Mr. T. Elsworthy), Broad Green, staged 
the premier collection having Muscat of Alexandria, 
and Black Alicante Grapes, Beaurre Clairgeau and 
Louise Bonne of Jersey Pears, and King of Pippins 
and Sturmer Pippin Apples. Mr. J. W. Raynes 
(gardener, Mr. J. Barker), Rock Ferry, was second. 
In other classes first prizes were taken by Mrs. 
Bankes, Mr. A. R. Gladstone, Mrs. Patterson, Col. 
Bird, Mr. H. Cunningham, Sir Pyers Mostyn, Rev. 
Canon Robin, Rev. L. Garnet, Mr. W. E. King, Mr. 
T. Comber and Mr. J. H. Salmon. 
Certificates were awarded to Messrs. R. P. Ker & 
Son, for a fine group of Cyclamen; to Messrs 
Charlesworth & Co., Bradford, for a display of 
Orchids of high merit; to Messrs. J. Cowan & Co., 
Garston, for Orchids, &c. ; to Mr. Thomas Coulton, 
Liverpool, for cut Chrysanthemums ; to Messrs. 
Dicksons, Limited, Chester, for hardy fruit and 
plants; to Mr. H. Middlehurst, Liverpool, for a 
collection of Potatos: to Messrs. W. Clibran & Son, 
Altrincham, for cut Chrysanthemums; to Messrs. 
J. G. Robertson, for garden fertiliser; and to Mr. R. 
Hinde, Sale, near Manchester, for dried Orchid 
blooms. 
Hardy Ornamental Flowering Trees and Shrubs, by 
A. D. Webster. A valuable guide to planters of beautiful 
trees and shrubs for the adornment of parks and gardens. 
Price, 3s. ; post free, 3s. 3d. Publisher, Gardening World, 
I. Clement’s Inn, Strand, London, W.C. 
BULBS AND THEIR CULTIVATION. 
[Concluded from p. 138.) 
Having given you a short account of the bulbs at 
home in Holland, I will say a few words on their 
successful cultivation in your own homes, window 
boxes, or gardens. In the first place you must 
understand that at this time of the year the flower is 
already partially developed in the bulb and can be 
distinctly seen if the bulb was cut in half, therefore 
it depends upon the skill and care taken in cultiva¬ 
tion if the flower will develop properly or be a 
failure. 
Why most persons fail to produce good flowers 
from the bulbs is from the fact that they hesitate 
to give a fair price for them, forgetting to reckon the 
cost of pots, soil, manures, etc., and more particu¬ 
larly the time spent in attending to them before 
coming to maturity. I calculate that every dozen 
Hyacinths cost two to three shillings for pots, soil, 
and time, therefore the cost between good and 
inferior bulbs being so little, it is a pity it is not 
taken more into consideration rather than so often 
overlooked. Many persons will go to auctions, and 
because the bulbs are cheap, buy four or five times 
more than they want, comforting themselves that 
because they are so cheap, that if there are some 
failures it does not matter, forgetting if they spent 
the same amount of money on better bulbs they 
would have less labour and much more satisfactory 
results. To get the best results from all bulbs it is 
desirable to plant early, that is in September, or as 
early in October as possible. Some hesitate to 
disturb the borders in their gardens so long as there 
is a little bloom left, forgetting it is very detrimental 
to bulbs or plants that have to take their place, and 
which can never be expected to do well unless well 
established before the severe winter weather sets in, 
and if failure results from these delays, the bulbs are 
condemned rather than their wrong treatment. 
Crocuses begin to grow in September, thus showing 
it is time that they were in the ground ; therefore to 
delay planting till late in October, or November, is 
to promote failure. Narcissus of all kinds grow 
stronger and bloom better if planted at the end of 
August, and this will show you that if they are not 
planted until late in October or November, it is 
impossible to expect the best results. Hyacinths, 
Tulips, and all other bulbs should be planted from 
the middle of September to the middle of October, 
and no one must expect success or the best results if 
they delay this till November or even December, for 
you must understand that it is one thing to grow 
ordinary and indifferent flowers, but skill, patience 
and attention is necessary to bring them to 
perfection. 
The next object to be considered is the proper soil 
or position to plant bulbs in. Some imagine that 
any soil or position will suit them, but no greater 
fallacy can exist, and yet how often do we see this. I 
know many who are willing to spend any money in 
reason on bulbs, plants, or seeds, but who spoil 
everything by not getting better pots, soil, etc. 
Bulbs of all kinds want a light open sandy soil, 
which should be on the side of dampness rather 
than dryness. Although they like rich treatment, 
they do not like to be near fresh manure, that is 
manure less than a year or even two years old. 
Narcissus or Tulips may thrive better in richer or 
heavier soil than Hyacinths but all should be on the 
side of lightness rather than heaviness. In planting 
your garden it may be as well to say put Tulips 
three or four inches under the soil, but Crocus and 
Narcissus, particularly Polyanthus Narcissus, may 
be put five to six inches deep. In all cases care 
should be taken that the bulbs are placed well on 
the soil so as to avoid any vacant space underneath 
them, particularly when planted in holes, as I 
mentioned in the earlier part of this paper. 
We pass on now to the consideration of how to 
obtain the best results from bulbs grown in glasses, 
jars, etc., and for this purpose, more than for out¬ 
door planting, I cannot advise you too strongly to 
get sound bulbs for the work, for without them it is 
simply impossible to succeed. I may say that all 
bulbs will naturally do better in soil than in water, 
but where good soil cannot be obtained, I advise 
some of my audience here to-night to try them in 
water, in the usual glasses made for the purpose. 
Bulbs treated in this way do not want so much 
attention, but great care must be taken to have good 
fresh water; water that has been standing in a tank 
a long time is detrimental, so is rain water, which 
in large towns like Birmingham is so often very 
impure. A piece or two of charcoal put into the 
water will help to keep it sweet, and if ever the water 
looks cloudy or smells offensive it should be changed 
at once, I think it beneficial to change the water 
about every month or six weeks. Care should also 
be taken in putting the bulbs in glasses to keep the 
bulb quite clear of the water, that is about an eighth 
of an inch above it; between the water and the bulb 
the moisture and dampness arising from the water 
will be quite sufficient till the little roots touch the 
water, when they will absorb all that is desired ; if 
the bulbs are allowed to touch the water they have 
a tendency to go rotten, and it is also necessary to 
give the bulbs as much air as possible, but where 
they will not be caught by frost. If these bulbs are 
kept too confined or in a warm room it has a 
tendency to draw the foliage and that weakens the 
flowers, for it is the bloom you want to develop first 
rather than the foliage. When the bloom is over, 
the foliage should be allowed to grow to form next 
year's flower rather than weaken this season's 
growth. Narcissus, Crocus, even Tulips may be 
grown in glasses the same as Hyacinths and produce 
very satisfactory results ; but where good sandy soil 
can be obtained I should certainly say use pots, care 
being taken to have the drainage kept as open as 
possible so that the surplus water can easily drain 
away. When putting the bulbs in the pots do not 
press the soil too hard, if you do the young roots 
cannot freely push themselves down, but rather push 
the bulb up, and that is why you sometimes see 
bulbs raised out of the soil. After they are potted 
they should be allowed to stand for a week or two 
before much water is given ; I do not like the system 
of soaking the pots directly the bulbs are potted and 
I think much more harm is done by over-watering 
than by under-watering, on the other hand they must 
not be allowed to get dry, for if they do, the tips of 
the young roots dry up, and if water is then given 
they cannot absorb it; it is like keeping little 
children without food for three or four days and 
then giving them three or four days food at one 
meal and expect the same results as if they are fed 
regularly day by day. To those who can afford a 
little expense I should certainly suggest their plant¬ 
ing some of their bulbs in a mixture of cocoa nut 
fibre and sand, in pots, jars, dishes, etc. I find this 
composition will retain just enough moisture with¬ 
out being too wet or too dry. I have planted many 
bulbs for some years past in fancy jars and have the 
most satisfactory results. If I find it dry at any 
time I let the pot stand in water and then drain 
itself as much as possible, or if I have used this 
mixture in jars or glass dishes, I fill them up with 
water as far as I can and then turn the jar on one 
side to let any surplus water drain away. This 
cocoa-nut fibre I find will retain moisture much 
longer than anything else, and if some of my 
audience could have seen the beautiful results I had 
from some of the small jars, something like the one 
I have here, they would realise that it is a very 
interesting method of growing them. They can be 
moved from place to place without any trouble, and 
always look clean and bright and they also make 
very charming table decorations.— R. Sydenham. 
■ -»*»- 
REIGATE CHRYSANTHEMUM SHOW. 
The sixth annual exhibition of Chrysanthemums 
held at the Public Hall, Reigate, on Friday, the 9th 
inst., in aid of the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent 
Institution, and the Royal Gardeners’ Orphan Fund, 
was again a very successful display. The number 
of entries was somewhat in advance of previous 
years, although there was a slight falling off in the 
number of groups, which has hitherto been one of 
the leading features of the show. There was very 
keen competition in the classes for cut blooms, and 
with the exception of Class 14 for twenty-four 
incurves, where Mr. Salter was easily first, only a 
few points divided the other classes. 
In the class for a group of Chrysanthemums not 
exceeding 50 ft. super, arranged for effect, Mr. H 
Bailey, gardener to Mrs. W. L. Barclay, The Briars, 
Reigate, was well first; second, Mr. A. Hayter, gar¬ 
dener to Lady Henry Somerset, The Priory, Reigate ; 
third, Mr. J. B. Mead, gardener to Maurice Marcus, 
Esq., High Trees, Red Hill. For a group not 
exceeding 30 ft. super, Mr. E. Tickner, gardener to 
J. Watney, Esq., Shermanbury House, Reigate, was 
