December 22, 1894. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
267 
Personally, I would sooner spend a lifetime as a 
propagator, gra f ter, or budder of such things as 
Ivies, Ampelopsis, Clematis, Roses, fruit trees, &c., 
all of which are fast becoming specialties in their 
line, and for good men at this work there are places 
plentiful enough. It means that the man who will 
push ahead will stand the best chance of succeeding. 
I would rather, far rather, have the chance of follow¬ 
ing some particular branch of nursery work, than of 
filling many a private place with their barely living 
wages. A good all-round man to-day is worth his 
weight in gold, and should be valued as such by 
those who profit by his skill and industry.— J. G. 
Pettinger, Strawberry Dale Nursery, Harrowgate. 
-•*.- 
BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
I have sometimes thought that this popular 
vegetable holds the unique position of having been 
improved till it has been spoiled in the process, it 
having suffered in quality more than any other 
vegetable from the mania for big things. The very 
large samples seen in the greengrocers’ windows at 
the present time compare very unfavourably in 
respect to flavour with those which are not more 
than half the size, and which can be both cooked 
and eaten whole, while they are sweet and delicate 
in flavour, and of a better colour when cooked. It 
is well-nigh impossible to send the monster knobs 
from the shop windows to table in a satisfactory 
condition on account of their strong, somewhat 
pungent, and certainly, to many, highly disagreeable 
flavour. A strain which produces sprouts moderate 
in size is far better for the private grower, who 
ought always to make his plantings of this the 
largest of any winter greens, because of its superior 
hardiness and productiveness. 
Whatever the conditions of soil and climate the 
first consideration should always be with this and 
others of the Brassica family to get them in early. 
On wet cold soils, where a supply has to be kept up 
from October till March, the first sowing may be 
made in October on a warm dry border. Sow thinly 
and if necessary thin out to prevent them getting 
drawn up weakly. Those drawn out may, if 
required, be pricked out on a south border. On 
warm soils a sowing made in March will often be 
early enough, followed by another in April for the 
later plantings. A sowing in a pan or box under 
glass during February will often come in handy, 
being so easily protected from the depredations of 
insect enemies, which too often are the cause of the 
most provoking losses among early sown seeds. 
There is no question but that if Brussels Sprouts 
and the Kales generally could be sown at once in 
the quarter the crop is destined to occupy, the 
results would be much better than they often are 
when the plants are allowed to stand too long in the 
seed beds waiting till the ground is vacant for a 
convenient opportunity to plant them out. I once 
put this into practice. Having the land well 
manured, ploughed, and harrowed down, 1 marked 
it out into rows 3 ft. apart, and planted five or six 
seeds at the same distance apart in the rows. My 
great difficulty was to protect the seeds from the 
greenfinches, but this was overcome by placing No. 
60 pots over the seeds till they had germinated, when 
the seedlings were thinned out to one plant, choosing 
the most promising before they became crowded. 
This was on a poor shallow soil. The principal 
objection, and one which will of necessity preclude 
very many from putting this plan into practice, is 
the limited space they have at command for the 
growth of vegetables ; but I considered that the 
results amply repaid the outlay for the space 
occupied by the crop and the labour attendant upon 
the planting and watering under the usual course of 
cultivation was saved. 
When early sprouts are required the first planting 
should be made during May, the earlier the better, 
and a yard apart each way is not too much for these. 
Later plantings may follow up to the end of July in 
very warm rich soils. On heavy, cold or poor land 
the end of June is quite late enough for profitable 
results; these later plantings may be placed 6 in. or 
more closer. A planting of these and other Kales 
on a north border, or where they are screened from 
the sun, is a good plan, prolonging the season for 
them from two to four weeks, Too heavy a coating 
of rank manure on ground in fair condition should 
be avoided, the tendency of it being to produce open 
sprouts in place of the close buttons, which it should 
be the aim of the grower to produce. Whenever 
they seem likely not to button properly, a dressing 
of salt will serve to steady the growth. This is a 
fine manure for this crop spread over the surface a 
week or two before planting. The removal of dead 
foliage, frequent hoeings, and stirring of the soil all 
assist in the well-doing of this and other crops, and 
cannot too frequently be insisted on.— IV. B. G. 
-- 
ON PREPARING MANURE. 
In many places very little attention is given to the 
preparation of manure for the enrichment of land, 
it is no uncommon thing to see manure from stables, 
cow sheds, etc., thrown into the open either in big 
heaps or spread abroad ; but both, in my opinion, 
are equally wrong, as when thrown out fresh into 
large heaps the most valuable of its fertilising 
properties is lost in the form of ammoniacal vapour, 
while if spread about thin the urine gets washed 
out of it and often escapes into drains or water 
courses, where it cannot possibly benefit the land. 
I make it a rule never to allow either to take place. 
In the absence of a pit to put the manure in, which 
I much prefer, it is thrown into heaps, and if there 
is any possibility of them becoming too hot, a 
quantity of liquid manure is thrown over them. 
When a fair-sized heap is made it is left flat on the 
top, and if found to heat much again more liquid 
manure is poured over it. As soon as heating ceases 
the whole is thrown into a conical heap to keep off 
heavy rains, and left to rot until wanted. We do 
not make the heaps too large, as the centres are 
liable to get dry. In this way we secure manure of 
the very best, and a far different article to what is 
too often put upon the land. Where the ground is 
heavily cropped it is of the utmost importance that 
the manure should be good and plenty of it used.— 
Con. 
-- 
ON FORCING SEAKALE IN POTS 
AND BOXES. 
Amongst forced vegetables Seakale holds the premier 
position, and this being so the question naturally 
arises as to which is the best way of forcing it. During 
the last twenty-five years I have resorted to many 
expedients in order to obtain Seakale out of season. 
Many people are apt to think that Seakale cannot be 
obtained without going to a good deal of trouble and 
expense in providing special accommodation, and 
some believe it absolutely necessary to have special 
pots to place over the crowns in the open quarters ; 
but very good Kale may be had without either. 
I obtain a constant supply all through the season 
by placing the crowns in large pots, boxes, 
or paraffin casks cut in two, which are placed 
in cold or warm houses according to the season. If 
we want a supply quickly we put the crowns in a 
warm position until they begin to grow, and then 
remove them to cooler quarters. We make a 
point of keeping the crowns constantly moist by 
putting a good coating of moss over them, and 
when growth commences air is excluded as far as 
possible by placing a pot, box, or barrel over the 
crowns. To have Seakale really good it should be 
allowed to come on gradually and have an abun¬ 
dance of water. In this way we keep up a daily 
supply throughout the season till it comes on 
naturally in due season in the open air. I like this 
way far better than covering with manure in the 
open ground.— Con. 
- -*• - 
TWO GOOD BROCCOLI. 
The county of Cornwall is noted for its Broccoli, 
and one need not therefore be surprised to find that 
the Cornish growers hold good strains of the sorts 
that pay them best to grow. Two of their most 
popular varieties are Penzance Early White, and 
Wilcove’s White, both splendid types having large 
white heads. There are so many sorts on the 
market now, that it is very difficult to get true 
stocks, but making apoint of obtaining mysupplyfrom 
Messrs. Lamoureux, of Plymouth, I have been well 
served in this respect. Penzance Early White 
comes into use early in February in mild winters, 
and in our case forms a follow on to the Self-Pro¬ 
tecting, which are lifted and kept in cold pits through 
the winter. Wilcove’s is a very late variety, often 
shaking hands with the Early Cauliflowers. It is of 
the purest white and of splendid flavour, but an old 
sort and very difficult to obtain true. 
When residing in the Isle of Purbeck, I found 
there a true and well selected stock of Wilcove’s 
White, and when I took charge of a certain garden 
one of the conditions I had to observe was that I 
should annually save a dozen of the best selected 
heads for seed, a custom that had been observed on 
the place for many years, the original stock having 
been obtained from the raiser. Although nearly 
twenty years since I left that place, I have always 
repented that I did not keep the stock after I left, 
but I have made a commencement to work up the 
strain again.— Con. 
CLASSIFICATION OF THE 
CHRYSANTHEMUM. 
By H. Briscoe-Ironside. 
Perhaps you will allow me now that the Crysanthe- 
mum season of 1894 bas practically come to a close, 
to endeavour to initiate a discussion, and to invite 
expressions of opinion, with the view of establishing 
a more reliable basis for the classification of the 
Chrysanthemum. 
I think the present time is especially appropriate 
for ventilating this subject for two reasons ; firstly, 
there having recently been issued a second supple¬ 
ment to the official catalogue of the National 
Chrysanthemum Society and therefore there is 
ample time for mature consideration ere another 
supplement, or better still a new catalogue be 
compiled; and secondly, because the time has 
surely arrived for some some steps to be taken in 
the matter. 
During the last seven or eight years the advance 
of the Chrysanthemum has been by leaps and bounds, 
and it requires no evidence from me to give proof 
of this fact, the number of new varieties introduced 
being ample corroboration. The craze for abnor¬ 
mally large flowers began more or less with the 
introduction of Etoile de Lyon in 1888, since when 
the idea with raisers and growers has been practi¬ 
cally nothing but size, to the almost entire extinction 
of the old and, in some respects, more beautiful 
varieties. 
It is, of course, many years now since the desire 
for large Chrysanthemums first originated, but, I 
think, I may say that the year 1888 set the present 
state of affairs in motion, and opened, as it were, a 
new epoch in the history of the flower. 
There is, in my opinion, very great beauty in many 
of the very large Chrysanthemums, and I think 
there must be few who will not admit that exhibi¬ 
tion blooms of flowers such as Viviand Morel, 
Avalanche, Edwin Molyneux, &c., are gorgeous, 
glorious, and grand, representing as they do the 
wonderful work of Nature, and the immense progress 
in cultivation. On the other hand one can at the 
same time fully appreciate the beauty and grace 
depicted in smaller flowers such as Source d'Or, 
Mdlle. Elise Dordan, &c., and yet it is impossible to 
compare their distinguishing features one with 
another. 
It is true that many persons prefer small to large 
blooms of the Chrysanthemum for various reasons, 
and vice versa, but then this is so with most flowers. 
If you take the Rose for example, you cannot 
compare a Marechal Neil with a La France, nor the 
old Cabbage Rose with a small Moss. 
It is the desire for size that is responsible for the 
abnormal productions which we now see, as Raisers 
tax their minds in considering what will create the 
largest and most original flowers, and with that 
object every crop imaginable is sought after. Thus 
are produced some of the most astonishing hybrids, 
with the result that, if it is not impossible to classify 
them, it is at least a matter of uncertainty and caprice 
how they should be classed. 
There are, at the present time, ten sections in the 
Official Catalogue of the National Chrysanthemum 
Society, viz.:—I., Incurved; II., Japanese; III., 
Japanese Incurved; IV., Japanese Reflexed; V., 
Reflexed; VI., Large Anemones; VII., Japanese 
Anemones ; VIII., Pompons ; IX., Pompon 
Anemones; and X., Singles. 
I propose to deal with the sections in their order 
as above, and I will make a few observations that I 
may venture to think appropriately apply to each 
section. The characteristics to which I shall refer 
preface the sections in the Official Catalogue. 
Section I. Incurved. 
Extract of characteristics :—“ Should be as nearly a 
globe as possible, deep, florets broad, smooth 
