December 29, 1894. 
281 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
THE JAPANESE CHRYSANTHEMUM 
AND ITS CULTIVATION FOR SHOW 
BLOOMS. 
By W. Rushton. 
[A paper of considerable interest and value to 
Scottish growers of Chrysanthemums was read at 
the November meeting of the Scottish Horticultural 
Association, by that very successful exhibitor, Mr. 
W. Rushton, gardener at Cochno, Duntocher, and, 
by the courtesy of the author, we have now the 
pleasure of giving it wider publicity.] 
Propagation. —As a general rule, with a few excep¬ 
tions, I prefer to strike the cuttings early, as they give 
better blooms than those struck, say after the end of 
December. 1 begin early in October with late- 
flowering kinds such as Boule d’Or, Mrs. E W. 
Clarke, Chas. Blick, Wm. H. Broomhead, J. S. 
Dibbens, Lord Brooke, and Robert Owen; and in 
the case of the following newer varieties I would 
at least 3 in. long when dressed for insertion, very 
often, if smaller, they are slower in rooting, and 
do not so readily make such fine plants. It is not 
always possible, however, to get sucker cuttings, 
and then of necessity those from off the stem must 
be resorted to. The nearer they are to the base of 
the stem the better, as, when higher up, they are 
more likely to form premature flower buds. The 
chief point in favour of sucker cuttings is that they 
do not so readily set buds of this kind, although I do 
not think stem cuttings produce inferior flowers. 
Some varieties, such as Anna Hartshorn, Viscountess 
Hambleden, Viviand Morel, and its sport, are much 
given to forming premature buds. These, should, 
therefore, be removed as soon as they form until a 
free growth takes place. 
Compost for Cuttings.— The compost for the 
cuttings must be of a free open nature. Many people 
versa. In preparing the pots, place one crock over 
the central hole, over that a little of the rougher 
part of compost, then fill up with the finer part, 
and make rather firm. Place a little sand in the 
middle of the pot, for this, carried down with the 
dibber will serve for the base of the cutting to rest 
upon. The cutting should not be put too deeply 
into the soil, say about half-an-inch, for if inserted 
any deeper, they are more apt to damp off. 
Propagating Frame. —I strike the cuttings in a 
span-roof house having a couple of beds in it under 
which there are pipes for the purposes of heating 
them. These buds are partially filled with leaves 
and litter, trodden firmly, on which I place 2 or 3 in. 
of ashes. In this the cutting pots are plunged, well- 
watered through a fine rose, and afterwards covered 
with sheets of glass one foot wide with a half-inch 
space between each to allow the escape of superfluous 
Chrysanthemum Mr. C. Harman Payne. 
strongly advise early insertion :—Silver Cloud, W. 
G. Newitt, Wanlass, F. S. Mathews, Le Prince de 
Bois, Eda Prass, and Mr. Ditrich. The bulk of the 
varieties are put in from the later half of November 
to the middle of December, and in January, 
February, and March, sorts that are too early to 
take cuttings of such as Mdm. Ed. Rey, Bouquet des 
Dames, Wm. Tricker, Viviand Morel, Chas. Davis, 
Van den Heede, Amos Perry, Edwin Molyneux, W. 
H. Lincoln, and Autumn Tints ; also a few to bloom 
on the first break, viz. ;—Mrs. F. Jameson, Mrs. E. 
W. Clarke, and Lizzie Cartlege. I have great 
hopes that the following newer kinds will give good 
returns if similarly treated :—Princess Victoria, W. 
G. Newitt, Robert Owen, Wanlass, and Silver 
Cloud. 
Cuttings.— The cuttings should in all cases, if 
possible, be taken clear from the stems, and if not of 
too succulent a nature the better. They should be 
are inclined to be careless in this matter, but I feel 
sure that it has far more influence upon the general 
welfare of the future plants than is often imagined. 
The cuttings are “setting up house” for them¬ 
selves, and there can be no two ways about the 
matter, but what a sweet compost suitable for 
the plants' requirements, in which the new plants 
may begin their self-existent life, is of very great 
importance. I prefer the following mixture :—two 
parts of good fibrous loam that has been cut about 
twelve months, to one part of leaf soil, three- 
quarters ot a part of river sand, and a twelfth of a 
part of charcoal. These should be passed through 
a J-in. sieve and well turned over before using. 
Pots for Cuttings. —The pots used are those 
of from 2 to 2J in. in diameter, one cutting in each 
pot; the size of pot being in accordance to the 
strength of the cuttings, and their freedom in form¬ 
ing roots ; the larger size for the stronger, and vice 
moisture. The beds are slightly heated, and the 
house is kept at a minimum temperature of, from 40° 
to 45 9 , Fahr. After the first watering the cuttings 
will rarely want any more water until they are 
rooted, but should they flag they receive a sprinkling 
with tepid water through a fine rose. As soon as 
they are rooted, and are past their flagging stage, 
they are placed on a shelf near the glass in the same 
house, care being taken to ward off cold draughts. 
First Potting.— By the latter end of January, 
many of the plants will be ready for their first 
potting. Three or four inch pots are used and the 
compost is similar to that employed for the cut¬ 
tings, excepting that less sand is given, and half a 
pail of horse droppings, that have been dried on the 
top of a boiler for a couple of days added. A four- 
inch pot of bone meal to the barrow load of soil is 
also given. I might state here, that all the pots and 
crocks used for the several pottings should be thor- 
