December 29, 1894. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
283 
great esteem, but while there are crowds of persons 
who value it highly, there are also many who do not 
care a jot about it, at least, with regard to the eating 
part of the business. 
Asparagus, too, with all its delicacy of flavour and 
consequent high value as an esculent, meets with 
some people who declare that they care not for its 
flavour. In this latter instance we would fain confess 
that to our private imagination this smacks some¬ 
what of the " Fox and the Grapes,” this vegetable 
certainly being beyond the reach of a great portion 
of the community, among them, of course, being the 
cottage gardener, who with his few perches of land 
can ill afford the space necessary for the cultivation 
of Asparagus. With him it is a constant problem as 
to how he shall allot his ground to the growing of 
the vegetables that will give him the best possible 
return in the wisest proportions. 
With regard to the culture of Peas, it is scarcely 
a vegetable that would pay the cottage gardener to 
grow. First there is the amount of ground occupied, 
then the trouble and expense incurred in the pro¬ 
curing of suitable staking material, and lastly the 
labour involved in the operation of staking. When 
we take all this into consideration it is manifest that 
the owner of small gardens will with very few 
exceptions be unable to largely indulge his taste for 
Pea growing. In larger gardens the question of 
profit and loss is, of course, not so essentially the 
standard by which the cultivation of any particular 
vegetable is gauged. The employer evinces a taste 
for any special subject, and accordingly it has to be 
grown regardless of the labour involved, the 
difficulties in the way, or the advisability of the 
operation from a profit and loss point of view. 
To the gardener who wants to obtain early Peas, 
say towards the end of May, several plans are open. 
The first is to sow thickly in the open air during 
November or the beginning of December, the second 
to sow in a gentle heat in shallow boxes in the 
beginning of February, the young plants being after¬ 
wards dibbled in rows outside in a sheltered part of 
the garden ; the third to sow in pots at a similar 
time or to plant out in clumps on a warm south 
border which has previously been well prepared by 
manuring and thorough digging, as soon as the state 
of the weather will allow of it being done. With 
regard to the first-named method and the wisdom of 
its practice from a cultural point of view a good deal 
has been said from time to time in the columns of 
the horticultural press. It must necessarily follow 
that seed sown in the open ground in late autumn is 
exposed to considerable risks from the inquisitive 
nature of mice, who soon find out whether anything 
has been put in the ground, and doing so exhibit 
particular diligence in annexing it. 
Then again, if the winter proves a wet one, a great 
part of the seed sown perishes from rot. The 
exceptionally mild autumn we have enjoyed this 
year has in many instances caused the Peas sown in 
this manner to germinate, and in several localities 
we have noticed that they are even now pushing 
through the surface of the soil. It is true the Pea 
will stand a little frost with comparative impunity 
but it exhibits a marked dislike to cold nipping 
winds. Therefore in the case of our experiencing a 
few of these, such very early subjects will be sure to 
suffer. From one cause or another it seldom happens 
that autumn sown Peas yield anything like a fair 
return—the plants that do survive usually being 
weak and unhealthy specimens of their class. Some¬ 
times, however, if the winter is a fairly dry one it 
happens that good results are obtained, and thus in 
localities where the soil is light in character and well 
drained, this method of autumn sowing has something 
to recommend it. In heavy wet soils it is, however, 
by far the best plan to let it severely alone. 
The second method of sowing in boxes in a gentle 
heat in February and dibbling out the young plants 
when the weather allows is really a good one, and is 
practised by many efficient gardeners, usually with 
the best of results. The last-mentioned system is, 
however, even superior to it, it has stood the test of 
a considerable number of years, and whenever 
adopted has always given satisfaction. The seed 
may be sown in 6o-sized pots and placed on a shelf 
near the glass in a vinery that is being forced. They 
should be kept well on the dry side until germination 
has commenced. Little or no water will be needed, 
in fact, the moisture contained in the soil is usually 
sufficient. As soon as the young plants are well 
through the soil they should be removed into a 
cooler house or else they will become drawn and 
sickly. They should be kept near the glass and 
gradually hardened off until the middle of March or 
thereabouts, when, if the weather is favourable, they 
may be transferred to the position prepared for them- 
In planting they may be knocked out of the pots 
and placed in the ground without interfering in the 
least with the roots, the check being thus reduced to 
a minimum. Covering material should be placed 
near at hand, so that protection may be expeditiously 
afforded them should occasion require. In the case 
of the dwarf varieties, such as Chelsea Gem and 
American Wonder, which, of course, may be planted 
much closer together than would be practicable 
when dealing with the taller growing varieties, a few 
posts may be temporarily driven in, and bars fastened 
to them in a horizontal position, so as to form a light 
frame work over which tarpaulin or Russian mats 
may be placed. The taller growing sorts, such as 
William I. and Ringleader, should be staked, and if 
a quantity of spruce boughs are obtainable these 
may be used as protective material, for which 
purpose they answer admirably. If, however, these 
are not to be had in sufficient quantity, dry bracken 
or straw will serve the same end, although the littery 
appearance caused by the latter does not enhance its 
value in the eyes of gardeners who are lovers of 
tidiness. — Sangster. 
THE ORCHARD HOUSE 
AND ITS MANAGEMENT.* 
During the last few years a great stir in hardy fruit 
growing has been taking place, and it has been the 
means of drawing special attention to this subject. 
Much has been said and written on fruit trees of all 
descriptions, their culture and management, and we 
have heard much on all sides of the question. It is a 
closely-allied subject to which I wish to draw your 
attention for a short time this evening. Most of you 
have, no doubt, read up this subject well, and have 
heard what is to be said for and against it. The 
subject has been so well threshed out, both in the 
press and the lecture room, that there remains little 
more to be said about it. You have also had some most 
useful object lessons on the same subject in connec¬ 
tion with your own Society, that it may almost seem 
absurd for me to take the subject in hand. But we 
all have our pet theories to ventilate, so much so, 
that we sometimes step boldly in where “ Angels 
fear to tread.” I want to put forward some such 
excuse to you this evening for bringing the subject- 
title of my paper before you, viz., “The Orchard 
House and its Management.” 
Whether or not we have yet gleaned all that is 
to be learned about the growing of hardy fruits in 
the open, and have decided in our own minds 
whether it can be carried out as a paying concern or 
not, according to the point of view we take of it, 
there is yet, I think, something to be said in favour 
of hardy fruit growing with the aid of glass, and it 
is to that system of culture and treatment I hope to 
draw forth much valuable information in the dis¬ 
cussion which I know follows the reading of papers 
before your Society. 
First: Let us consider the house most suitable for 
our purpose and its aspect. For choice, a span- 
roofed house running north and south is the most 
desirable, as from this aspect we have a more equal 
distribution bf light, and the plants would, therefore, 
be placed so that most is made of the accommoda¬ 
tion. Having decided that a span-roofed house is 
preferable, the eaves should be from 5 ft. to 6 ft. 
high. The width may vary from 18 ft. to 40 ft. 
according to the space required. We do not all 
require large houses, so that the demand and space 
has to be studied. We may not all be fortunate 
enough to have span-roofed houses, and other houses 
have to be called into use; but any house having plenty 
of light may be utilised for our purpose. It is often 
remarkable what can be done when the accommoda¬ 
tion is not all that could be desired. Whatever form 
of house we have in use, the ventilation should be 
ample, as it is most essential we should have a free 
circulation of fresh air if we are to have a good set 
and well-flavoured fruits. There is one more sub¬ 
ject which crops up in connection with our house, 
and it is a most important one in some respects, viz., 
the heating. Should the house be heated or not ? 
For preference, I think, most of us would prefer to 
have the means of excluding frost when the plants 
* A Paper read at the Ealing Gardiners' Improvement 
Association on December 4th, by Mr. A. Wright, Falkland 
Park Gardens, South Norwood Hill. 
were in flower, or it may be to hurry the plants into 
earlier activity to produce earlier crops. The heat¬ 
ing, however, can be dispensed with for the purpose 
of this paper. I have found that much can be done 
to husband the heat, by closing the house early when 
there is any appearance of frost when the plants are 
in flower. 
During the late frosts last spring when we 
registered 16 0 of frost outside, with the 
thermometer 3 ft. above the ground ; in a cool 
orchard house which was shut up early in the 
preceding afternoon, the thermometer stood at 
32 0 . This I mention to show what may be done 
without the aid of fire heat, and I do not think it 
will be often we shall have so severe frost so late in 
the season to contend with as the one we had last 
spring. There is, however, a great advantage in 
having a heated house whose early fruit is required, 
and where two or more houses are in use and one of 
them slightly forced, we get a much longer supply of 
fruit. The sorts of fruit we are to grow now 
demands attention, and the system we are to adopt 
in their culture. The sorts of fruit would include 
Pears, Apples, Cherries, Plums, Peaches, Nectarines, 
Figs, and sometimes Gooseberries and Grapes are 
included, as well as a few more which are not 
generally cultivated. The system of growing fruit trees 
in the orchard house is so closely allied to fruit 
trees in pots, that we pause and draw attention to 
the system where half the trees may be planted 
out in a prepared border and the remaining space 
used for trees in pots. 
The sorts of trees that may be used for planting 
out are the Peach, Nectarine, Plums, and Figs, w ; th 
Vines run up the rafters 6 ft. or 8 ft. apart, the 
Pears, Apples, Cherries, and Plums, being grown in 
pots. At the same time, it would be advisable to 
grow some Peaches, Nectarines, Plums, and Figs, in 
pots, so that they could be removed to the open air, 
and so prolong their season. Having thus briefly 
drawn attention to this mode of growing, let us now 
turn our attention to the trees we are to select, and 
if we have time to prepare our own plants, which will 
be the more satisfactory in the end. The Pears should 
be on the Quince stock, and two or three-year old 
trees selected. Apples should be on the Paradise 
stock, and two or three-year old trees chosen. 
Cherries should be on the Mahaleb stock, and one 
or two-year old trees picked out. Peaches and 
Nectarines should be good selected maidens. Plums 
may be two, or three, or four-year old trees. The 
best form to follow in training is that known as the 
pyramid. This form of training is so well known 
that it is unnecessary for me to dwell on details. 
Should we desire to have fruiting trees at once—so 
much is the demand for this class of trees that 
several of our large nurserymen make a speciality of 
fruit trees in pots, and good plants can readily be 
secured, so as to produce a crop of fruit the following 
season. But should one be able to make the selection 
of his own trees for potting up, a fairly good crop of 
fruit may be expected from them the following sea¬ 
son, but it would be unwise to over-crop the trees the 
first year after potting up. 
Soil. —The soil we are to use for potting purposes 
should consist of the best loam to be had, in the 
proportion of three or four barrow-leads of loam, 
one of old mortar rubbish, broken up and passed 
through an inch sieve, one barrow load of wood 
ashes, and a bushel of bone meal or horn-shavings. 
The whole should be thoroughly mixed together, and 
should not be too wet or too dry. Experience alone can 
teach us the condition soil should be in for potting. 
If the loam has been dug six months previously and 
laid up in a heap it will be all the better, as the 
grass and green material will by this time be decayed, 
and the whole become mellow. The old mortar may 
be substituted by pulverised chalk, but it is necessary 
we should have plenty of lime in the soil where 
stone fruits are to be grown. Other stimulants can 
be added to the plants in the shape of chemical 
manures, or in the form of manure water. The main 
ingredients we should be most particular in securing 
at starting is good loam, and enough lime mixed with 
it. With such a mixture as I have described all the 
fruit I have mentioned as suitable for the orchard 
house can be potted. 
In potting it is necessary the pots should be clean, 
as well as the crocks to be used for drainage. In 
draining a pot it is not necessary to use a large quantity 
of potsherds, but see the crocks are laid, the first one 
over the hole in the pot, and the others on top and 
