May 18, 1895. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
601 
before closing. Some gardeners use the syringe a 
great deal in Melon growing, but I believe it to be 
the stepping stone to canker, about which I will say 
a few words later on. I like to use a watering pot 
with a nice rose in preference to the syringe. Of 
course damping with the rose will not wet the under¬ 
sides of the leaves, but this is a matter of little impor¬ 
tance if the atmosphere is kept in a genial state by 
frequent linings and careful airing, and never allow¬ 
ing the plants to suffer for want of water at the 
roots. 
The plants will require a little top-dressing before 
the fruits get full grown, and this time I advise 
giving a little stimulant in the soil, such as guano, 
Veitch's horticultural manure, or Standen’s 
manure, which I have found a good manure for 
flavouring Melons. Giving Melons artificial manure 
in the soil is no doubt far better than giving so much 
help them to bear a second crop if needed. Some 
varieties are subject to cracking, which is no doubt 
caused by some defect in cultivation, as in the case 
of canker, but insufficient heat and dryness at the 
roots are in my opinion the chief cause of cracking, 
for in that dry and trying summer of 1893, when 
water was very scarce, I had more cracked Melons 
than ever before. I have found it a good plan to 
partly sever the stem in this case, but some cut the 
fruits off entirely, a practice I do not recommend, 
as it greatly impairs the flavour. Inexperienced 
growers may be at a loss to know when to cut a 
Melon for the table. Well, when Melons get near 
the ripening stage all varieties, but some more than 
others, will crack around the stem, and they must 
be cut as soon as this can be detected. A sharp eye 
must be kept on them, for a Melon in hot weather 
very soon changes. Another way to detect ripe 
return pipe through a range of frames for autumn 
growing if possible, for we cannot always reckon on 
having what we call our second summer, which is 
nice for the Melon grower. Of course every gar¬ 
dener knows his own business best as regards the 
demands, etc., made upon him, but let them be great 
or small he should supply them in an even regular 
manner, and not spasmodically. If a fresh batch 
of seeds is sown about the time the first are planted 
out, and given good treatment afterwards, they will 
be found to come in about the nick of time ; in fact, 
where Melons are in constant demand a few seeds 
should be sown about every month from February 
to June or July if there is plenty of heat at command, 
and always try and have a plant to spare in case of 
accidents. It is no use talking, we all know that we 
cannot go by dates and figures, as the summer is a 
very pressing time for the gardener, and he has to 
liquid manure, especially in a cold and sunless sum¬ 
mer, for it not only adds to their flavour but makes 
stout leathery leaves, which means a great deal to 
them. In top-dressing Melons be careful not to 
partly bury the fruits with the soil, as is sometimes 
the case, for if covered for a little time they will not 
only get deformed but lose their colour, which they 
will never regain. It is generally the custom to 
expose the fruits by placing them upon small pots 
or pieces of slate, but whatever is used it should be 
put so as not to hold the moisture under them, and 
they should be turned a little now and then, or else 
there will be a bad spot under them, and at the 
same time be careful not to let them roll off when 
nearly ripe and twist the stem out, as none of this 
will add to their beauty when sent to table. When 
the fruits show sign of ripening more air should be 
given and watering may be withheld, but be careful 
not to dry too much, as is often the case, or they 
will get infested with red spider. This will not 
Melons is by means of the beautiful aroma they 
give off when opening the frames, in fact, I always 
cut my Melons as soon as possible after they are 
ripe, for I believe they lose flavour if allowed to 
stay on after. When the fruits are cut take them to 
a cool place for an hour or so; this will improve 
them greatly, for if taken quite warm and sent to 
table they are not so agreeable to the taste, and 
oftentimes are insipid. 
If the plants are intended to carry a second crop 
they should have a good syringing and also a good 
watering with liquid manure ; this will refresh them 
and set them going again. Although a nice crop 
can be obtained a second and often a third time, I 
do not recommend it; if there are frames enough I 
prefer putting in young plants, and from the end of 
June to the end of August so much bottom heat will 
not be required, but it is always best to be on the 
safe side and have plenty in case of a cold cloudy 
time. It is a very good plan to have a flow and 
look out for himself. If he cannot meet the demands 
by once cropping, crop twice; never get a great gap 
if it can be avoided. 
Canker in Melons. 
I said just now that I do not recommend syringing 
very much in Melon growing, as I believe it has 
something to do with canker. It lowers the tem¬ 
perature a great deal, and no doubt gives the plants 
a check. For instance, I consider syringing in the 
morning rather a blunder than otherwise, for when 
syringed and air is admitted afterward, very often 
carelessly, it is like a shower of hail on a sunny day, 
to say nothing about disfiguring the principal leaves, 
which alone is very favourable to canker. If there 
is plenty of vapour in the frames all night after 
closing them, and in the morning air is given with 
judgment the plants will stand the full rays of the 
sun without a blemish and enjoy it. The cultivator 
should also be careful not to turn back the Vines at 
any time and bruise their tissues, as this too is very 
